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What’s The Best Touring Bike? (2024 Edition)

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Touring bike buying advice is a popular topic, so I update this post regularly to keep the details current. If you find any out-of-date information, consider leaving a comment to let me know. Thanks!

Choosing a new touring bike can be pretty stressful for a newcomer to cycle touring – especially when you start looking at the price tags. 

So it’s no surprise the most common question I’ve been asked in 18 years of running this blog is some version of the following:

“Help! What’s the best touring bike for my upcoming cycle tour?”

It’s a perfectly understandable question to ask, because there are a lot of options out there – but answering it calls for a bit of context .

Your choice of touring bike should be mainly informed not by online reviews or paid-for content by sponsored bloggers, but by the kind of tour you’re planning, your unique physiology , your riding preferences as a touring cyclist, and – an oft-forgotten factor – what bikes are geographically available to you.

So the “best touring bike” for a young Brit planning a low-budget tour in Europe would be totally different to the “best touring bike” for an experienced American planning a once-in-a-lifetime, multi-year adventure from Prudhoe Bay to Tierra del Fuego.

Similarly, the best bike for a rider measuring 5 feet (152cm) tall, who also has reduced neck mobility, would be different to the best bike for a fitness enthusiast trying to win a bikepacking race like the Tour Divide.

And if you ask fellow cycle tourers on forums like Reddit what they think is the best touring bike, the answers will inevitably reflect what’s worked best for them , not what’ll work best for you.

(Yes, I am a fellow cycle tourer, but I’m not just going to tell you what touring bike I ride, any more than I’m going to tell you what colour pants I’m wearing!)

Simply put, there are diverse answers to the question of what is the “best touring bike”.

Luckily, touring bicycles are a mature product with decades of heritage. And despite the the confusion created by the rise of bikepacking as an industry buzz-word , there are still plenty of good commercial touring bikes on the market today. These are bikes that have been designed to meet the needs of a broad range of touring cyclists, and are readily available through local bike shops and dealership networks around the world.

In this post, we’re going to take a look at the best of them. The list below showcases some of the most time-proven touring bikes being made and sold in 2024, across the full spectrum of budgets, as well as a few lesser-known models to demonstrate what touring bikes for riders with specialist requirements might look like.

Perhaps you’ll find your perfect touring bike here. Perhaps you’ll realise you’re looking for something else altogether. Or perhaps you’ll find something more interesting to read among everything else I’ve written about cycle touring and bikepacking.

This is not an exhaustive list of every single touring bike on the market.

I’m a veteran bicycle traveller with 18 years of real-world experience, and my goal is to help you make the right choice , not to churn out AI-written spam to get on the front page of Google and generate affiliate commission.

My hope is to give you a taste of the diversity of touring bikes available today, rather than overwhelming you with unexplained jargon and things to click on. The journey of buying a new touring bike is not a short one. Reading this post will just be the beginning!

The list of touring bikes below is arranged in ascending price order. I’ve mentioned the worldwide availability of each bike, roughly speaking, and the manufacturer-suggested retail price (MSRP, aka: RRP or list price) in £/€/$ as applicable.

Cube Touring

Decathlon riverside touring 520, fuji touring ltd/disc ltd, ridgeback expedition, ridgeback panorama, surly disc trucker, oxford bike works expedition.

• More rider-recommended touring bikes
• Bonus: The secret to actually choosing the right touring bike

(Many good touring bikes previously on this list have been discontinued, including the Adventure Flat White, Dawes Galaxy, Revolution Country Traveller, and Surly Long Haul Trucker, to name just a few. That’s life!)

Summary: Feature-rich flat-bar trekking bike Availability: Worldwide List Price: £800 / €730 / US$760 / CA$1,090

The entry-level touring bike from the major German bike maker Cube is the affordable and simply-named Cube Touring . The basic model in this extensive range is currently one of the cheapest off-the-peg touring bikes on the market, and is widely distributed across Europe and North America.

If you’re used to the appearance of British or American designed tourers, you’ll notice some big differences, such as the flat handlebars and adjustable stem, the resulting upright riding posture, and the front suspension fork, as well as other details like a kickstand, a hub dynamo, and LED lights as standard. These are all fairly typical features of touring bikes from German and Dutch makers, where utility and comfort takes precedence.

To cater for a diverse customer base, the Cube Touring range comes in several frame variations and sizes, including the classic diamond frame (5 sizes), women’s specific with a sloping top-tube (3 sizes) and a step-through frame for riders with impaired mobility (3 sizes), all in a choice of two colour schemes.

The ‘semi-integrated’ rear rack, which is held in position by the mudguard/fender, is unorthodox, and the seat stays and front fork don’t have standard mounting points, complicating any modifications to the bike’s luggage-carrying capabilities. Riders looking for an entry-level touring bike that can be upgraded in the future may also decide to pass on the Cube Touring for these reasons.

The rest of the specification is impressive at this price. The entry-level Shimano V‑brakes and drivetrain components are sensible. As with any bike, you’ll want to fit your own preferred saddle, but the inclusion of ergonomic grips, lights, fenders and a kick-stand makes the Touring more or less ready to hit the road right out of the box.

All that said, the bike’s strongest selling point is the price. The recent disappearance of several popular entry-level touring bikes has left a gap at this end of the market – one that the Cube Touring happily fills.

• Check out the full Cube Touring range on the Cube website .
• Find your local dealer in Cube’s online directories of stockists in the UK and Europe , the USA , and Canada .
• Don’t buy this bike online. Support your local bike shop ( UK list )!

Summary: Good value forward-thinking light tourer Availability: UK, Europe, Australia List Price: £800 / €800 / AUD1,800

There’s no denying the success of Decathlon ’s no-frills approach to designing, manufacturing and selling sports and outdoor gear. The Riverside Touring is the entry-level model in Decathlon’s new foray into touring bikes, and for many riders will be a welcome addition to the sparse options at this lower-budget end of the market.

The Riverside Touring 520 is based on an aluminium frame, whose geometry sits somewhere between the old-school rigid mountain bike and today’s trendy gravel/hybrid rides. The frameset sports a big range of mounting points for more or less any luggage configuration you might imagine, including a front lowrider or fork cages, a traditional rear carrier rack should the semi-integrated stock rack not be to your tastes, and no less than five bottle cages.

The riding position of the Riverside Touring leans towards relaxed and upright, with the sloping top-tube helping with mounting and dismounting, and flat bars with so-called ergonomic grips and bar-ends atop a stack of head-tube spacers, all pointing to a bike designed with the casual or newcomer rider in mind. Comfortably wide 1.75″ tyres will be equally content on asphalt and gravel at the 700C (28″) wheel diameter.

Looking at component choice, Decathlon have specified a 1×11 drivetrain (ie: a single front chainring driving an 11-sprocket rear cassette); unusual on a tourer where riders tend to benefit from a wide and fine-grained range of gear ratios. The hydraulic disc brakes are also an unorthodox choice for a touring bike. 

Both will have traditionalists up in arms, citing increased chain wear rates, a reduced choice of gear ratios, and the near-impossibility of repairing hydraulics on the roadside. But a quick scan of the many customer reviews of this bike suggest that these concerns are academic. In the regions of the world this bike is likely to be used, spares and repairs for this bike will be abundant. And if you want to take it further afield, you can always fit cable disc brakes and/or a regular drivetrain.

Certainly one of this bike’s great strengths is how widely available it is for test-riding, Decathlon having hundreds of locations across the UK, Europe, Australia, and increasingly further afield, including Turkey, India, China, and the list goes on . Indeed, I can easily imagine a first-time tourer with a reasonable gear budget walking out of the store with not just the bike but a full set of luggage and maybe some camping gear too.

There are only four frame size options, however. Taken together with the wheel size, this may prevent those with short body lengths from finding a good match with the Riverside Touring 520.

In summary, while Decathlon have leaned pretty far into the crossover between classic touring and the gravel bike trend, there’s little to find fault with at this price – and there’s considerably more scope for upgrades here than other entry-level touring bikes in this list.

• Buy the Riverside Touring 520 in the UK from Decathlon .
• The bike is also available from Decathlon branches across Europe , Australia , and beyond .

Summary: Sporty steel-framed light road tourers Availability: UK/Europe/USA List Price: €1,000/1,500

Japanese manufacturer Fuji’s entry-level touring bikes are the Fuji Touring LTD and Disc LTD . The cheaper Touring LTD is the flat-bar model with rim brakes, while the Touring Disc LTD features drop bars and cable-actuated disc brakes with integrated shifter/brake levers. 

They’re both built on a Reynolds 520 cromoly steel frameset, with classic touring geometry and all the usual mounting points. Both bikes feature 36-spoke 700C wheels on Shimano hubs, and mudguards/fenders and a reasonably solid rear rack as standard, but no front rack or lowrider (you can of course add one later).

The Touring LTD has a Shimano Alivio V‑brakes and a 3×9‑speed chainset from the midrange of Shimano’s mountain-bike series of components, while the Touring Disc LTD has a 3×9‑speed Shimano Sora chainset with slightly higher gear ratios, making it more oriented towards lighter-weight road rides, as well as the ubiquitous TRP Spyre cable-actuated disc brakes found on so many touring bikes. For the extra money, the Disc LTD has a generator (dynamo) hub built into the front wheel which is already hooked up to the integrated front headlight – a nice touch.

The Fuji Touring LTD and Disc LTD come in no fewer than seven frame sizes, allowing precise fitting and fewer compromises for short or tall riders.

In summary, both models represent high ambitions in a good-value package aimed at a rider who wants a classic, no-fuss steel-framed touring bike, with the Disc being the sportier and more road-oriented of the two.

• Find a list of global dealers on the official Fuji website .

Summary: Beefy yet comfortable long-haul all-rounder Availability: UK List Price: £1,350

Launched in 2014, tweaked in the years since and now thoroughly tested on longer trips, the Ridgeback Expedition  is a strong contender for best value expedition touring bike on the market.

The current model shares design principles with many more expensive touring bikes designed specifically for worldwide expeditions beyond the developed world: wide-range 3×9‑speed mountain bike gearing, chunky 26-inch wheels, and a comfortable upright riding position. Unusually for a British tourer, it comes with flat bars and bar-end grips for a variety of hand positions. Cable disc brakes are now fitted as standard (the first incarnation had drop bars and V‑brakes).

The Ridgeback-branded integrated grips and bar-ends are modelled on the very popular but expensive Ergon range. The latest version of the Ridgeback Expedition also sees a brazed-on kickstand mounting plate added to the non-drive-side chainstay (though not an actual kickstand).

In many ways, as well as being excellent value for money, the Ridgeback Expedition is one of the most full-featured off-the-peg bikes in this list for extremely demanding trips where comfort and durability over time are paramount. Upgrade the rear rack, add a front lowrider and your favourite saddle, and you’ll be ready for the most remote of the planet’s backroads.

• Read my full review of the legacy 2014 Ridgeback Expedition here , and check the comments for feedback from long-haul riders.
• Like the rest of Ridgeback’s range, the Expedition should be available from any authorised Ridgeback dealer .

Summary: Classic British fully loaded drop-bar tourer Availability: UK List Price: £1,600

The Ridgeback Panorama  is a British-designed, Reynolds 725 cromoly-framed, disc brake-equipped, classic touring bike with a durable selection of 3×9sp drivetrain components from both road- and mountain-biking ranges. 

Its road-oriented frameset is prime for being built up into a fully-loaded, long-haul, asphalt touring machine. Both a front lowrider and a rear rack are fitted as standard – Tubus lookalikes, not the genuine articles, but still a welcome addition for fully-loaded riders who are just getting started.

Potential weak points on the Panorama include the integrated shifters/brake levers, which break away from the principle of separating possible points of failure (although you could theoretically swap them out for bar-end or even downtube shifters). The wheelset components are also nothing to write home about; get the spokes re-tensioned before taking this bike on a long-haul tour.

In spite of these question marks, the Panorama has been around for a long time and is very much tried and tested:  read Tim & Laura’s detailed guest review of the Panorama after a 6,000-mile road test , after which they completed their round-the-world trip on the same bikes.

• The Ridgeback Panorama is available from these authorised UK dealers .

Summary: Customisable road/gravel adventure bike Availability: Worldwide List Price: £1,600 / US$2,050 / CA$2,800

Back in 2012, when the jury was still out on disc brakes as a reliable choice for long-distance touring, Surly produced a disc-specific version of their legendary Long Haul Trucker touring bike, cunningly naming it the Disc Trucker . It has since evolved into one of the most versatile and tried-and-tested touring/adventure bikes on the planet.

The Disc Trucker platform had a major update in 2020, about which more detail on the Surly blog. Wheel diameter now complements frame size, ie: bigger wheels suit taller riders and the vice-versa, for a total of eleven frame/wheel size combinations. If, having tried all the Disc Truckers for size, you still can’t find a good fit, you should probably visit a bespoke framebuilder.

The frame geometry is tight and nimble, with integrated gear/brake levers adding to the sporty vibe. This lack of mechanical separation won’t please everyone, but will certainly please riders looking for a performance boost over the uncompromising solidity often seen in the expedition bike niche.

Similarly to the Kona Sutra (see below), the latest Disc Trucker has bolt-through axles, clearance for fatter tyres, and versatility improvements such as multiple fork mounts for fenders, cages or lowriders, to match the kind of wilder, mixed-terrain rides for which the Disc Trucker is increasingly used.

As ever with Surly, racks and mudguards remain excluded, the intention being for you to fit your own according to your needs.

The garish fluoro-yellow paint option of the current Disc Trucker won’t be for everyone, but Surly tell us that it’s also available in hi-viz black.

• Click here to read my full review of the legacy 2014 Disc Trucker .
• To find a place to test-ride one, start with Surly’s global dealer locator .

Summary: Adaptable, performance-oriented road/gravel tourer Availability: Worldwide List Price: $2,100 / £1,900

Canada-based bike manufacturer Kona have long inhabited the left-of-centre in cycling. The Sutra range, too, is progressively-minded, being one of the first mainstream touring bikes to switch to disc brakes back in the early 2010s.

Since then, Kona have adopted the stiffer and stronger bolt-through axle standard (another first amongst bikes in this list), and tightened up the frame geometry to produce a nimble and sporty cyclocross-inspired steel frameset which remains a touring bike at its core.

In 2022, Kona diversified the platform into several models, including the LTD and SE. The standard Sutra went in a more lightweight direction than in previous years, switching to a road drivetrain and cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes. Today, this performance-oriented version of the Sutra remains Kona’s ‘modern take on the classic touring bike’ (in their own words), with a Shimano GRX 2×10-speed road-bike gearing, drop bars with integrated shifter/brake levers, mixed-terrain Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres, and a Brooks B17 saddle and Brooks bar-tape as standard. This all points to the blend of on-road and off-road use increasingly preferred by riders going on shorter, wilder adventures.

The 2024 Sutra’s luggage-carrying capabilities are diverse and adaptable. For those wanting to use the bike as a fully-loaded world tourer, standard rack mounts are provided on the seatstays and rear dropouts, suitable for fitting any standard pannier rack (perhaps a Tubus Cargo or Logo to match the Tara front low-rider already fitted). For those wanting to stay nimble, frame and fork mounts exist for more or less any combination of bolt-on cages and harnesses.

The Kona Sutra comes in six fine-grained frame sizes. This year’s paint colour is Satin Midnight with bronze gloss decals, in case you were wondering.

• I’ve been riding a Kona Sutra myself since 2012 and I love it.  Read my original long-term review of the legacy model here .
• The Kona website has a handy  list of worldwide dealers so you can find a place to test-ride the Sutra.

Summary: Bespoke, round-the-world expedition bike Availability: UK & Worldwide List Price: from £2,789

Originally a one-off “ultimate expedition bike” built to my exact specification, Oxford Bike Works have been refining and custom-building bespoke Expedition s to order since 2015 from their workshop in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, England. Many have now circled the globe. It’s not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

As standard, each bike features a hand-built Reynolds 525 cromoly steel frame, a choice of 26″ or 700C hand-built wheels, top-end Tubus racks, rim or disc brake options, Microshift thumbshifters, and tons of other expedition-specific touches.

From a baseline specification, each bike is custom-built to the rider’s exact needs and preferences after an in-person consultation and fitting session at their workshop. While most of their customers are from the UK, they will also ship finished bikes elsewhere in the world in special cases.

Oxford Bike Works have now moved all frame production to the UK, both minimising their carbon footprint and allowing even more individual tailoring – especially attractive for riders with diverse physiologies who may find that the commercial bikes in this list don’t cater well for their needs.

• Check out the full specifications of the Oxford Bike Works Expedition .
• Read my 10,000-word epic, How To Build The Ultimate Round-The-World Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures) , which details every design decision that went into this bike.
• Don’t buy this bike online (you can’t anyway). Support your local bike shop ( UK list )!

Yet More Rider-Recommended Touring Bikes

This is not an exhaustive list, because if it was we’d be here all day. But the following bikes have also been recommended by readers of this blog over the years since I first published this post. All have also proven themselves capable touring bikes over time and miles:

• Bombtrack Arise Tour (Germany & Worldwide)
• Cinelli HoBootleg (Italy & Worldwide)
• Fahrradmanufaktur TX-800 (Germany)
• Genesis Tour De Fer (UK)
• KHS TR 101 (USA)
• Temple Cycles Adventure Disc 3
• Trek 520 Disc (USA & Worldwide)
• Vivente World Randonneur (Australia)

…and you’ll find even more options in my massive list of heavy-duty expedition touring bikes available worldwide .

Remember: don’t buy a touring bike online. Support your local bike shop ( UK list ) and have your bike chosen, fitted and customised by an expert whose job depends on getting it just right, just for you!

Bonus : The Secret To Actually Choosing The Right Touring Bike

Finally, I’m going to tell you a secret. 

It’s something other cycle touring bloggers won’t tell you, because they’d prefer you to click on their affilliate links, buy a bike online, and earn them commission.

If you’re having trouble choosing between the touring bikes listed above, the reason is probably because – on paper – they are basically all the same .

They all cost several hundred pounds/dollars/euros. Most of them have steel touring-specific frames, wide gearing, relaxed riding positions, a pannier rack and extra mounts, and drivetrains from the middle of Shimano’s mountain-bike or road-bike ranges. They’re all built primarily for paved roads, but could handle a dirt track or gravel road if need be. They all have two wheels, handlebars, and a saddle.

So how should you choose between them?

The answer is actually very simple.

Visit a touring bike specialist ( UK list ) and take a few bikes for a test ride. 

In doing so, you will discover that the “best touring bike” is the one that’s available in your area and has been set up for you by a touring bike specialist who’s taken the time to understand your needs.

I’ve written a longer post about what to do when you get to this stage of the touring bike buying process, when you’ve got a shortlist of bikes you found online but you’re struggling to choose between them .

And if what I’ve shared with you here still isn’t enough, you can check out even more deep-dive posts about detailed aspects of touring bike choice, including

• three critical questions you should ask at the start of the touring bike buying process ,
• a discussion about what exactly defines a touring bike ,
• my take on what’s really going on when you can’t decide between two bikes ,
• a hugely in-depth article on how to custom-build your own expedition bike ,
• a summary of the debate over disc brakes versus rim brakes ,

and more on my absolutely massive advice and planning page .

Because of all the things you’ll buy for a cycle tour, the bike is the one purchase you really can’t afford to get wrong.

Bogged down in research for your next big bicycle adventure?

I wrote a whole book to help with that. How To Hit The Road is designed to be read at your leisure, making planning a bike tour simple and achievable, no matter the length, duration or budget. Available globally as an ebook or paperback.

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Also relevant to this post:

• How To Custom Build The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures)
• Surly Disc Trucker Touring Bike: Legacy Review & Detailed Photos
• The Best Cheap (Sub-£1,000) Touring Bikes for Low-Budget Adventures

Comments ( skip to respond )

323 responses to “what’s the best touring bike (2024 edition)”.

Wow. An actual person. Writing. Pen to paper. This is just O so refreshing! Thank you!!! (At 76 years of age-and an English major to boot, circa 1970–I get so tired of the shit being published today. Gawd–I have to guess at what some stupid software program is ATTEMPTING to say!)

You’re welcome. It’s fast becoming my unique selling point!

I can’t find a Kona Sutra SE anywhere, I think they’re discontinued, so if anyone knows where I can find one let me know.

Yes, you’re right – it looks like Kona have simplified things for their 2024 range, and the plain Sutra is now their classic touring bike once again (as it was for years before the SE was introduced). It looks like you’ll need to add your own rear rack for fully loaded touring, but all the frame fittings appear to be there. I’ll update this post shortly with the new model. Thanks for highlighting it!

My wife’s bike is a basic 2000 Kona Hahana. Persuaded the dealer to sell only frame headset seatpin bars. . Built up better wheels etc tubus racks. Tierra del Fuego to Quito plus many more trips. Still going strong 20 years later. My lovely lightweight Univega bought as a frame lasted until 2013 .The frame broke in Albania survived for 60 km held together with nylon cord and cone spanners. Got it welded by local blacksmith. Now have Surly Troll. Ok .….but will have to go back to Square taper bottom bracket. Wife’s old square tapers have done about 30000 miles. Progress or fashion? Charlie and Bethan

All I can do is repeat the old saying that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

Anyone got their hands on a Decathalon Riverside Touring 900? Looks like good all round value, but rarely in stock on their website! Would love to hear some real world feedback on this bike…

I second that – real world stories appreciated!

Hi Tom, I recently cycled from Amsterdam to Genoa covering 2500km in total. I flew into Amster with the bike boxed up. I took with me a carbon frame Ridley Kanzo Adventure, it has all the mounting points and relatively relaxed geometry. I road over every type of terrain and the bike didn’t let me down. What I liked with this bike was that I could arrive at my destination in the evening, remove my pannier bags and then have a light weight roadie feeling for exploring whatever region I had made camp in. The bike also had great performance in the hills. Another plus was that when flying and the bike is boxed up, it’s relatively light weight to transport. This meant that at the start and end of my tour getting the bike boxed up from campsite to train to airport was not such a struggle.

Thanks, Kerry. I really like this approach and I’m heartened to hear carbon frames are now being built to take light luggage loads. Thanks again for sharing!

The 30 year old touring bike you already own becomes the second best, as the next one you buy must necessarily be even better.

I’ve recently gone from a Claud Butler Majestic to a Crossmaxx 28″ Pinion. Naturally, I’m absolutely certain, it’s the best touring bike I could possibly have bought (given my criteria and priorities).

First, let me make this perfectly clear, I’m not a seasoned tourer, so much of what I will say is strictly coming from an amateur. I had to look for a new touring bike after my 85 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe got hit by a hit-and-run driver and bent the fork beyond repair, but that bike worked great for my needs.

I could not buy a touring bike from anyone in my city of 350,000 people because no one carries them, the only shop that could have ordered me the Trek 520 but there were some things about the bike I didn’t like, plus it was expensive and with lower end parts, much how I felt the Surly Trucker was, having no choice I had to turn to the internet. in 2019 I compared the Kona Sutra SE, Surly Trucker, Fuji Touring, Masi Giramondo 700c, and one other I can’t recall the name. After much debate, I narrowed it down to either the Kona or the Masi, and ended up with the Masi because of the price of $1,450 at the time, the Kona would have cost me $1,950, but in 2019 they didn’t have some of the stuff they now have on that bike so to make it work I had to make some changes which would have cost me even more; the Masi had the best gear ratios for climbing steep grades with a loaded bike of any bike I saw, and at the time Masi was using 180mm rotors on the front and 160 on the rear and I liked the idea of the bigger rotor on the front, Masi has since reduced the front rotor size to 160.

I did make some changes to the Masi, put on RedShift Shockstop suspension stem and seat post, a change I would have done to any other touring bike I would have bought, now I feel like I’m riding in a Cadillac. The stock Kenda Drumlin tires are junk and heavy, I replaced those with Schwalbe Amotion 38c tires; and the WTB saddle was also junk, so replaced it with a Brooks C17; I ended up not liking the front Tubus Tara rack and replaced it with a Blackburn Bootlegger rack which works better for my needs. 

I think the Masi Giramondo 700c is a very worthy touring bike that a person should at least look at, especially if on the lower budget end of things.

Thanks for this detailed contribution – it’s always good to hear about rider experiences with touring bikes other than those listed here. For other readers’ reference, here’s a link to the California based manufacturer webpage for the Masi Giramondo .

About to begin a year of touring with Breezer Radar Expert. A review of it here https://cycletraveloverload.com/breezer-radar-expert-review-best-budget-gravel-bike/ (not me) I changed the tires to Schwalbe G‑One Overland Evo 28″ 50–622 for this purpose 😉

I’m considering the Priority 600, as my new touring bike and wondering if anyone has any history of using one or opinions of this bike? Thx

For reference, here’s a link to the Priority 600 . I have no personal experience of this bike, but I have published my own detailed thoughts on internal gearing systems such as the Pinion gearbox in the context of cycle touring here (most of the same logic applies to belt drive).

I am a multi day ultra cyclist, so tend to go minimalist. However, I have done big touring rides in the past on my trusty 1993 Cannondale T1000 (my 21st birthday present). I think that a Daws Super Galaxy or Cannondale, still make excellent budget touring bikes. I have been racing and touring on a Niner RTL Steel, which is makes an excellent touring bike, with great touring geomtry and lots of mounts for racks — I use a 1x 46t Shinano GRX groupset with an 11–50 cassette. Gravel bikes can may great touring bikes

Happy you’re reinforcing the mantra that the best touring bike might be the one you already have – even if it’s 30 years old! As for gravel bikes, many of them would certainly make good tourers – just not sure I’d advise anyone to buy a gravel bike for touring if touring-specific bikes are also available.

I think I have been riding the “Best” touring bike for the last 7 years. — https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

What an absolute beast! Something with that much detailed customisation can hardly fail to serve its rider’s needs best.

Yes HP and Tom, I would like to know about the Marrakesh too!

Interestingly enough, I still can’t find any long-term rider reviews of the Marrakesh. There are, however, plenty of spam reviews which combine manufacturer specifications and stock photos with meaningless filler like “combining Alivio Trekking derailleurs with the Shimano Sora shifters, you won’t have any problem slowing down or torquing up the bike when needed” (yep, actual quote). As a rule, bikes only get on this list when a consensus emerges from the community of people who’ve used them on tour. I just wish I could find more decent trip reports from people riding this one!

Great list, but where’s the Salsa Marrakech?!

I’ve done a few tours on it and can vouch for it’s quality. She’s an absolute beast and rides like a dream! Packed with touring features and has really well worked out geometry.

PS I don’t work for Salsa.

PPS love the blog mate. Did a 6500km+ around Asia a few years ago and your blog was really reaaally useful. ???

Thanks for the comment! The Marrakech was launched in 2015, which in cycle touring circles makes it a newcomer 😉 but you are correct that enough time has gone by now to see real-world results, so I’ll consider it for the next update. Thanks again!

I am looking to buy either Fuji disc touring LTD 2021( priced at 1336 euros) or Trek 520 2021( priced at 1600 euros) . I am really confused , as I don’t understand even though both have very similar specs, why is the trek 520 priced at 250 euros higher? Is trek somehow supposed to be better for some reason that I cannot comprehend or is it price cause of the brand “trek”?

Hi Badri. Prices may differ for many reasons, including import taxes, exchange rates, retailer profit margins, and of course simple pricing decisions by the manufacturer. But my main advice still remains this: if you can’t choose between two bikes on paper, it’s time to visit your local bike shop and take both for a test ride!

Hi I’m from newzealand and touring bikes well decent ones aren’t that easy to come by at the moment because of covid .but I found a Kona sutra the guy had only done about 100 km on it decided he wasn’t going to cycle so sold it and I happen to be at the right place at the right time.great bike to ride and I’m looking forward to my first tour on it in one months time Peter

Unlikely you monitor this anymore, but I’ve been comparing my 80s road bike to modern touring bikes (Croix de Fer and Kona Sutra) and the geometries look the same. Am I missing something or are modern specialist tourers actually very similar to old-school road racers?

Hey Hugh. Actually I make a point of replying to every comment, and I update this post monthly 🙂

Long ago I inherited a hand-built road bike from my grandfather. It was the first bike I’d owned that wasn’t a mountain bike and I was amazed at how fast and light it was, despite being a steel frame. It was a bit on the small side for me, but you’re right that the geometry was quite close to a classic road tourer. The biggest differences you’ll probably find are in the weight (heavier-gauge tubing designed for carrying luggage) and the wheelbase proportional to frame size, although the trend today seems to be for more compact and sporty designs. But the short version is yes, there are certainly a lot of similarities!

Sorry to burst some people’s bubbles.But I want to save you the hassle and frustration. I’ve been touring around north,central and south america,now in Turkey & the Balkans for the last 4.5 years on a 3x9 ‚11–36 cassette Surly Troll 26″ and I can tell you that 26″ anything is absolutely obsolete!! DEAD!! It has been a total nightmare! I can find zero parts for it, anywhere. Definitely forget tires. Impossible! Literally nothing anywhere. Traditional wisdom is gone out the window, China has flooded the market with 27.5/29″ and all the components for these sizes and that’s what killed the 26″ over the last 5+ years. Seriously , almost everything I have for my bike I had to buy off Amazon and getting lucky once or twice when a mechanic spent days looking for parts for me. I’ve spent days and more than 2 weeks stuck in cities looking for what was considered simple parts found “easily”! :9 speed shifters,cassettes,chains,26″ tires,disc rotors 160mm,BB,brake pads,etc…Nada!! Super frustrating! I can’t buy a new bike now but I will sell this 26″ 3x9 Troll in a flash the first chance I get or throw it straight into a river. It’s a shame because it’s a great bike. You can almost still get things for it online, but I think soon these parts will be plased out soon. Due to Covid the shipping is taking weeks and many parts are out of stock now too. I thought that being in Europe people still ride 26″ bikes I might find parts,but no.I’ve been once again stuck Tirana for more than 2 weeks just for a cassette and chain and have to take inferior parts now. If I had a 27’5 or 29″ and 10/11 speed I would have more options. My friends who toured 5–10 + years ago can’t believe this change. All 26″ inch bike frame builders out there need to know this.The market has changed, traditionalists be warned. Good luck!

Hello Ian and thanks for your comment. You certainly sound frustrated! For balance, and for the benefit of my other readers, I’d like to add a few observations:

1. 26″ is a wheel size, not a cassette sprocket count, chain width, shifter indexing system, disc rotor size, etc. It affects rim, spoke, tyre and tube availability. 2. You’re right that the industry is currently swamped with trendy new wheel sizes like 27.5 and 29. But most existing bicycles in the world have 26-inch wheels. These bicycles will always need spare parts and are unlikely to disappear overnight. 3. As for “literally nothing anywhere”, I just walked into my local supermarket and found an aisle of brand new bicycles, all adult sizes of which had 26-inch wheels, and a rack of spare tyres right next to them. I’ve said this before: it’s not just specialist bike shops that sell bikes. This is critical to remember when looking for 26-inch wheel parts in far-flung lands.

That’s all I wanted to add. I hope you get things sorted in Tirana. And I hope you’ll share with us the location of the river you throw your Surly Troll into!

Im fairly sure the Surly Long Haul Trucker promotion pictures are of frames with a different wheel size they are designed for. The picture here looks like a 60cm frame for 700c wheels but fitted with 26″ wheels. This is the same for the picture here as it is on their website, which looks like a 58cm frame for 262 wheels with 700c wheels in place. I own a Surly LHT and theyre great bikes but the frame sizeing can be a bit confusing and the promotional pictures dont help.

I would respectfully disagree, based on the fact that the brake shoes are visibly aligned correctly with the rims. If the wrong sized wheels were fitted to the frame, this wouldn’t be possible. In the past, all sizes of LHT frames have been available for both 700C and 26″ wheels, so I’d guess we’re looking at one of the larger frame sizes for 26″ wheels with the correct wheels indeed fitted. The proportions do look weird at a glance, but it is in fact how these bikes were sold. FWIW the sizing scheme of the Truckers has changed now, so wheel size better complements frame size throughout the range, as mentioned in the latest update to the post above.

Hello Tom — I have a Koga Miyata Globe Traveler which I bought in 2005 from a dealer in Lexington, KY — Pedal The Planet. (Ironically, in 1985, I did a world tour on a Miyata bicycle.) I bicycled the Lewis and Clark Trail that summer, St. Louis to Astoria, OR. 10 years later in 2015 I began a charity ride of the perimeter of the U.S. for Habitat For Humanity and Save The Children (website: usperimeterride.org) and concluded that 12,000 journey in 2017. I’ve been very happy with my Koga Miyata all these years. I’m 71 now, and don’t know if I have any expedition type tours left in me … but I keep thinking. Just wondering your thoughts on the current Koga bikes. I’ve seen a couple of comments here regarding Koga bikes — some positive and couple not (the one regarding the cracked frame). I think that there are no longer any Koga dealers in North America. Am I correct in thinking that? I believe there used to be one in Toronto, and a dealer out in Santa Barbara, CA, that handled parts. Pedal The Planet where I bought my Koga Miyata is no longer in operation. Thank you for all your info on your website!

Aaaand Long Haul Trucker is gone as well. Seems like Surly are phasing out some of the touring bikes.

Same source — LHT FAQ, third answer I think.

That’s tragic – although on closer inspection it does say “for the time being”…

Sadly, Surly will discontinue the Troll model in 2021.

Hi Lukas! Do you happen to have a source for this? I’ve checked the Surly website and social media channels and haven’t found any mention. I just want to be sure that my readers are getting accurate information. Cheers!

Someone asked the question on Surly’s website in Thorn section — Q&A. They asked whether Thorn will be renewed for 2021 and someone from the staff said that they will no longer offer this model. 

https://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll

FAQ section, should still be the first question asked. 

I was planning to build a tourer on Troll frame and I guess now I should buy it before it’s gone.

I wrote ‘Thorn’ by mistake, should be Troll (I also consider Thorn for my build and must’ve been thinking about it.)

Thanks for the reference, Lukas, that’s very useful. I guess it reflects the diminishing popularity of the 26-inch platform, at least for new bikes (and thus for profit margins).

In the premium category I’d add one of the IDWorx bikes such as the All Rohler or oPinion BLT. I visited their HQ last week and Gerrit and his team are amazing. They won ‘bike of the year 2020’ award for their BLT off-road touring bike. https://www.idworx-bikes.de/

I had the Off Rohler in this list since visiting their stall at Eurobike 2014 – it almost wins the ‘most expensive off-the-peg touring bike in the world’ award! I’m keen to see what they’ve created since then. Thank you for the link and the suggestion!

They arent’ cheap that’s for sure. I tried to trade in my wife for a titanium bike, but they only take euros.

Once they start to explain the engineering behind each component you can understand why they arrive at those prices. Also it’s a 4th gernation family of bike builders, they hand build the bikes, their staff are properly-paid, they have sunk lots of money into R&D and make many bespoke components. The attention to detail is astonishing. I spent nearly a day at their HQ with the attention of the owner, his wife, two dogs and their chief engineer. (He did his Masters theisis on Pinion gearboxes). We rode in the German countryside and tested a score of bikes. The customer service is out of this world. If you can afford it, I’d would recommend IDWorx.

Hi Tom, thanks for your help! Now im planning a big tour for a few years in Africa and America, now i have an Avaghon 26 series with Rohloff and Magura but im thinking to change with a 29″ wheels( im 1,81 cm tall ). What do you think about Surly ECR? Thnaks, Fabio.

I have never ridden the ECR so I can’t speak from experience, but I know it’s a well respected frameset. Your height suggests a 29er would be more comfortable in the long run. For planning a big tour you might want to check out my list of expedition touring bikes – this will also help you see quickly which framesets are Rohloff-compatible. Hope that helps!

I think I have “the best” touring bike available… judge for yourselves. Full suspension mid-drive eTouring bike and trailer evolution. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

Hey Tom. Love this website. Is this still current? I can’t find a stockist that has the Flat White. Even Adventure’s own website doesn’t seem to link to it. Or am I missing something obvious? Thanks

It’s still listed at https://www.adventureoutdoor.co/bike/flat-white — I’ll be updating this article this month and will see if I can find any current stockists.

A look at secondhand market worth it as I picked up Thorn Mercury Rohloff for £1200 (pretty much the price of the hub alone) also have a rohloff on my ti 29er and it has been on 2 other mtb before that ……. pretty much fit and forget.

Hi Tom I am preparing for a number of long term trips in the near future and researched bicycles heavily (including use of your excellent website) and settled on the Ridgeback Expedition. However I have now made three attempts to buy one at cycle shops in a variety of towns and no-one seems able to sell me one! I decided to contact the compnay directly, but no phone number and they say that they take two weeks to answer e‑mails. So I would suggest that customer service might be a factor in choosing the bike to buy (these are not cheap acquisitions after all) and any company that cant even manage to communicate with customers at the point of purchase isn’t likely to have ana dequate after sales customer support! Not sure what to do now, but it definitely will not be a Ridgeback anything Dave

Local bike shops don’t tend to sell a wide variety of bikes here in the UK, they make there money from servicing bikes and selling components so it’s not really a surprise you can’t find a bike shop that sells them. A quick google search has just shown several reputable online retailers that supply the ridgeback expedition and will provide you with any customer support you might require after purchase.

Hope this helps

Thx for the info. About same specs as my modded Moonrun. I use SKF bracket spindle but have cheaper headset but works fine for years now. For carrying stuff I use strongest on market today and that is the rear rack made by Thorn. Fitted with M6 steel bolts I can come a way with most everything I throw at it. I had the frame professionally modified by Marten from M‑gineering after which it was powder coated.

Hello, Thanks for this nice article. Why is the TX-800 striked-through in the list ?

You don’t have the Surly Ogre(700c) or Troll(26″) on your list. I got the Ogre because it was suggested over the LHT or disc version because they are a little more rugged. I went from the US to Panama on an Ogre and never had a problem with it beyond needing new tires, I went with the Ogre because I had a really nice set of 700c rims. NEVER EVER go to Latin America with anything but 26″. I read a few blogs on crazyguyonabike.com and with off road touring the LHT(or disc version) needs welding.

Hello Tom. I cycled Armenia three years ago in a short tour and met an old french man Thierri, walking all the way from france to there. one month after getting home he came to me in Tehran and stayed for few days. in his Photoes, i saw you. i knew you in advance beacause of your movie. The intention of writing for you is that we’ve been in contact for one year or so but suddenly i lost him and i Thought you might remember him and have any news of him. I really hope he is doing well and being healthy. thanks sorry for misspeling

best wishes Saied

Yes, he’s safe and well and back living in France. A true legend and inspiration!

I’m currently cycling in Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. 2000km via the coast, in some pretty demanding scenarios. I’m riding the Cinelli HoBootleg 2018 Touring Bike which has been as tough and reliable as I had hoped it would be. I’m 1000km in of the 2000km and think it’s been a great bike. Intrigued it wasn’t listed in the line up.

Should it be? I think so yet if there is a reason for not rating or listing can you let me know? Recognise you cannot list all Touring Bikes yet it does have a great name in many other review pages.

Anyway — I rate the Cinelli!

One other thing, I think the Trek 920 should be listed. The bikes you have reviewed are very traditional and the Trek 920 certainly makes the available options a little more spicy. Touring bikes are surely headed in the Trek 920 direction wouldn’t you say? D

Tom, what do you think about Verso Tour Gitane? I’m from Argentina, and here there aren’t so many good bikes, and I can buy one Gitane, but I’ve never heard about this model. Thank you

I also haven’t heard about this one. On paper it looks like a pretty decent European-style ‘trekking bike’ – the adjustable stem and the Magura hydraulic rim brakes remind me of some better known German and Dutch models. The drivetrain choices are close to what we use for the Oxford Bike Works Expedition. I’d take a careful look at the rear rack, which doesn’t look too sturdy from the photos, and consider upgrading the tyres if you’re going on a long trip.

This bike has a lot of critical components made from aluminium: the frame, forks and rear rack. The front rack would appear to be the chromoly Tubus Ergo. Going on your previous comments about aluminium Tom you could rule this bike out for some types of touring, for example, where a frame, fork or rack break would cause a major disruption.

Thank you for post. Lot of good reading. However i am bit lost in a choice now. Do you think you can shine a bit light to it ? 

I just now finished 300km testing tour on my road bike Coyotee Route 66. I changed a lot of things in a bike like butterfly handlebars, wheels, saddle, etc etc… 

I was riding in UK from Birmingham to Warrington. But after i come back i had a pain all over my body. And i started to think about a choice all over again… 

Now In 3 days i should start trip about 4000km from UK to Portugal. Do you recommend to buy a new bike this short before? 

I explored variety of options of bikes but seems more or less simmilar. I am concern if i will go for normal touring bike riding will be bit boring. Where Surrly Troll seems bit more fun. I was also thinking about hardtail mountain bike with fork suspension. But this seem as quite slow and tiring on road. And also what you think about newer types as using cargo bike (YUBA), hybrid bike should i think about it ? And also if you have any experience with using electic bikes. With a range above 100miles seems as interesting. Go for it or not ?

Thanks a lot for your answers.

Thanks for the article, i plan to travel from Texas to the bottom of South America next year. I was planning on buying a bike there. Do you know much about American bikes and what would be good for that trip, i’m Over 6 ft and about 95kg now. I’m in china now so i don’t think buying one here would be good but, i’m open

The Surly LHT or Disc Trucker is the classic American tourer and widely available. For your height/weight I’d go for a 700c model in L or XL frame size.

Thanks for this great review. I travel now for last 5 years with a Koga World traveller bike. Very happy with it. Please include in your evaluation next time!

Bought a Koga World traveller three years ago, have been very happy with it. BUT, this summer while on a trip in Scotland I saw a nasty crack on the welding. Tried to identify a Koga dealer, and all those mentioned on their website no longer do Koga. I contacted the customer service via their website form and it took them a week to get back basically telling me to contact the seller. I bought the bike in France, so that wasn’t going to help me much! So I went to the nearest reputable dealer in Pitlochry, they confirmed my worry that the bike was too dangerous to use so bought a cheap, but very good Giant mtb, and continued the holiday. Picked the broken Koga bike up on the way back to France and went to the seller.

The bike has been sitting in the seller’s workshop for THREE WEEKS as they wait for KOGA to instruct them on how to proceed (they are no longer a Koga dealer). The frame comes with a lifetime warranty, but a warranty doesn’t fix a bike. The seller has sent photos, and sent more photos at Koga’s request, but still no instructions. They have contacted the nearest Koga dealer in France and no answer from them either. I even went to the nearest dealer in Germany to see if they could help and they refused.

I have emailed, tweeted, tried calling, but nothing seems to get them to react now.

So my advice would be to stay away from Koga unless you are ok with paying a lot of money with no assurance that you will get any form of support if you have a problem on the road.

This sounds like a terrible story and I’m sorry to hear about it. It does seem unusual that one of the most reputable high-end touring bikes would develop such a fault in the first place, however. I’d be interested to hear what solution eventually arises – I would have thought a crack in a weld under warranty would point to a brand new replacement frame.

Tom I have a dawes titanium (not disks) and I was thinking of upgrading the wheels and brakes for longer audaxes. Do you have any suggestions.

thanks David

If I were you, I’d pay a visit to my nearest professional wheelbuilder.

New Trek 1120 is a whole new dimension. Gearing up now for a Canadian ride.

Having been the proud owener of several Koga bikes for around the world trips unfortunately, since 2016 the quality has been declining. For the amount of money it cost, it is simply not worth it. For 2000 € (which the price of a Koga bike) you can get a lot of bicycle elsewhere.

Hi Tom! Thanks for an interesting article! I’m dreaming of bike adventures, both longer trips and weekend trips and try to find a new bike that can make those dreams come true. Mostly, though, I’ll use the new bike for my everyday commute in Sweden. I’ve been watching the Verenti substance tiara/sora — seems like decent components and good value which I’m pretty sure will fill my commuting needs. But how do you think it would do for longer adventures? I’m mostly concerned about weight, geometry and key component durability. I would be very grateful of a brief opinion! http://www.wiggle.se/verenti-substance-tiagra-adventure-road-2017/

Hi all, Great article — many thanks. Very useful while choosing a bike to undertake a cycle across USA in 2018 (I’ve never had a touring bike before). I chose Trek 520 (Disc brake variety) in the end which I’m really happy with. Good value at £1,000 versus other bikes available, comes with pedals and rear pannier rack and very swish gear changers. Reviews on Trek website largely very positive as well. I went for because I’m quite tall (193cm/6foot4) so was struggling to find a big enough frame in any touring bikes. Surly do large frames but are more expensive (~£1500) and no extras like pannier rack. In the end the 60cm Trek frame firs me very well — we checked standover length and top tube length and because of the geometry of the bike it actually matches some other manufacturers who produce larger frames (eg 62cm). Feel free to contact me on [email protected] if you have any questions or thinking of buying the bike, I’d be happy to help.

Ollie, London

If it is a choice between a smaller and a larger frame, my preference is for the smaller frame because a) provided the steerer hasn’t been cut yet, it is almost always possible to achieve a good fit by putting on a longer stem and raising the seatpost (swapping for a longer one if necessary) b) bigger frames are harder to pack for travel c) it can feel more manoeuvrable

Punish the thing, make the bike work for you, and don’t be limited by the bike or its stuff. Bikes get stolen, plans go squiify and so what if we decide to take the really cruddy road upppp that turns into gravel then kind of goat track then.. and you land up pushing and doing singletrack downhill to .. mud and gravel and finally .. So, my bike came out of a skip, a rusty 2012 Scott Speedster S30. Thrown out! Square section BB, road rims and tyres (I know.. but a good spoke key makes life simple). wide range 9x2 gears. But it takes racks.. The boom in road cycling means 700c and road bike bits are much easier than they were a decade ago — even in Yemen and Iran. Total build cost of my bike: £100 including panniers. Bits and pieces off gumtree, pinkbike, etc. If it get bent, hah. If it gets nicked, hah. The no-compromise bits: ‘fit’ / setup, the saddle, my most comfy/worn SPD shoes, tubeless with goop.

Brilliant! Thanks for sharing this!

Hey this is great stuff! However, do you have recommendations for bikes in the US? ‑j

Sure – many of the bikes in this article are from U.S. manufacturers, Surly and Kona being the obvious two. Also check out REI’s range of tourers under the Co-op Cycles brand.

Hi Tom, love your site. I need to thank you not only for an informative site in general, but also for helping me make a decision on a touring bike. Until recently I lived in Darwin, Australia. It’s reasonably isolated and the choice of bike brands is severely limited. Thus, test riding anything decent is out of the question. My wife was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to work in France for 6 months so I saw this a a great chance to purchase the bike of my dreams. Armed with advice from your site (and others) I narrowed it down to two bikes — the VSF TX-400 with Shimano drive train, and the Rose Activa Pro 2. As there wasn’t a Rose dealer where we were living in France, the TX-400 was the winner. That was August last year and I haven’t had even a twinge of regret. I love it. Keep up the great work mate. I look forward to following your adventures (and Charlie’s) for many years to come. Cheers, Derek.

I am surprised that Ridgeback is still fitting aluminium racks to its high-end touring bikes when most other brands fit cro-moly. Aluminium whilst okay for components such as wheel rims, handlebars, and seatposts, is too fragile for heavily loaded racks with thin small diameter tubes and suffers too easily from metal fatigue.

I am surprised that serious riders will still accept an add-on rack of any kind steel or not. Every connection is a weak link. Tout-Terrain, Panamericana. http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/bicycles/panamericana/ — not interested in the pinion gearing but you can’t beat the frame.

Hi Tom and readers, Does anyone out there have any experience with or notion of what to do with the following problem? (saddle soreness — chafing). My girlfriend has a typical german woman’s uprightish trekking bike by bulls, and we did just one two week tour on it last summer. She’d never toured before. She found her “intim Bereich” (intimate area) got rubbed a lot by the saddle (wasn’t an issue with short local trips previously), so I ended up buying and trying a new saddle, then a series of the best rated woman’s saddles out there, and all of them did the same rubbing thing. Biking shorts and a gel pad didn’t help fully or much. She thought being more upright helped the rubbing, by taking pressure off the front of the saddle and putting it more on the sitz bones, so I got some big curvy bar ends and cranked them way back, so she can sit totally upright. I even added a nice suspension seatpost. But somehow the pain won’t go away. I’m really at a loss about what to do. I wonder if a new frame would help at all. Anyone find a saddle that really helps with sensitive bottoms? I’m leaning towards getting her a recumbent, but can’t really afford it, and she doesn’t tour with me a lot. I ride a bacchetta giro 20 myself and highly recommend it for touring! Thanks for any advice!

hi Jeff and all, dr. jim parker from cruzbike has compiled some very revealing facts regarding health issues cyclists commonly are facing, i.e. genital numbness & e.d. besides the usual (wrist,back & neck). i do suffer from groin pains riding on my dawes upride racing bike within 30–45 min.

hence for my upcoming uk & european (& car replacement) tour i am opting for an “atl-falter” from radnabel in tuebingen, germany. atl stands for “all tags lieger”(recumbent for everyday-all year/tasks); falter stands for folding. they are not well known outside of central europe, have been handbuild for nearly 30 years and are highly regarded for being — safe (long wheel base, low center of gravity), nimble (sharp turning circle), quick (ergonomic design & pushing against the backrest/very good uphills), comfortable (no neck, groin or wrist pain, full suspension), good load carrying capability [70kg total], “protecting” (see: allwetterverkleidung/foldable fairing/poncho), well engineered and sound workmanship. although dieter baumann (builder) speaks english, the webside is in german only. the atl-falter with rohloff, full chain cover, rear rack, pannier holders, twoleg stand weighs 17–18 kg (chrmo steel). 

you get an better idea about radnabels atl’s watching these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZgX6zIViBY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsBEvBX_S4o

they have proved themselves also on long distance tours germany to china. happy cycling or as we say in bavaria: “frohes radln” regards reinhard

Ok, my thing about touring bikes, what about the weight?! Most tourers are just too heavy, 17Kg+ steel monsters. “They have to be, for the reliability”…well the only frames I’ve had break were a steel and an Al frame. Maybe you’ll say “blasphemy” but my trekking bike of choice is a modified carbon fibre Simplon “Nanolight” K3. My aim has been the lightest bike but still fit for a tour of up to a month on road. This thing has been faultless for 9 years of mainly mountain tours (and daily commuting). The essentials, for me, are: good hub dynamo lighting, hydraulic Rim brakes (discs are, expletive, Primadonnas), brooks saddle, bike rack, mudguards, oh and lightness. Everything is carbon or titanium, except the wheels, saddle and handlebar. it’s expensive but still less than people spend on fancy packages for their car. Final tour weight is around 9.1Kg. I even made my own bike bags out of lightweight cuben fibre. Yes the bike could be seen as excessively focussed on weight, but nowadays trekking bikes could be a lot lighter than they are, we would have many more people on bikes, heavy bikes stop people biking. J Jones.

I have noticed that all these touring bikes have no suspension in the front wheel. I am curious, why? Does a front suspension affect the performance of these long bike trips?

For most tours it’s simply not necessary. A suspension fork adds complication, meaning more to go wrong. Forks without lockout introduce inefficiency. Finally, most forks are incompatible with lowriders (front racks).

Bikepacking (i.e. lightweight offroad touring) is a different story, but still a small niche.

Is there an easy solution to fitting a front light to my Ridgeback Voyage with a bar bag in situ? I do not want an extending arm attached to the drops with the light above the bag. I was wondering if one can purchase a bracket to bolt onto the mudguard retaining bolt on top of the front forks immediately below the headset. This would have to be offset to clear the cantilever cables. Any thoughts Anthony

A bracket on the fork crown is a common (old-fashioned) solution. Some bar-bags also have a mounting bracket accessory for a light (the Carradice one comes to mind). Or you can wear a headtorch!

Thanks Tom for your reply, I have had lots of comments and thoughts from others on the Cycling UK forum too. As is often the case as soon as one starts looking into things there are loads of solutions available. I have learnt a lot just by looking at the various websites sugggested by people. I have now purchased a good light that will fit on the fork itself and and allow to be positioned pointing down to cover the road in front. Not a dissimilar situation from the old ‘ever ready ‘lamps that we had on our bikes back when I was a child in the 50s and 60s. Though this is a USB rechargeable smaller model. I think this will do the job. So thank you again for your thoughts and I will soon start to read your book on my kindle which arrived today. I look forward to that.

Great site Tom and full of excellent stuff and info. Keep it up.

Kind regards Anthony Brewer

Hi Tom and all, Has anyone any experience of the cantilever brakes designed specifically for tandems and tourers by a company in Seattle USA called Rodriguez bikes., R&E Cycles. They call the design ‘The Big Squeeze’. I looked into this as I am not sure in my mind yet whether my Shimano cantis will work on my Ridgeback Voyage as well as I want on a heavy laden bike on very steep descents. The contact I have had with the American company has been excellent and speedy. They have no distributers or outlets in the UK and the brakes are quite expensive but look with all the information they provide a well thought out and constructed brake. Any comments, opinions or knowledge on this from anyone would be very much appreciated Anthony Brewer

Spa Cycles, a touring specialist fit these. 

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s101p2386/TEKTRO-RX-5-Mini-V-Brakes

I have used them on 4 loaded alpine and Pyrenean tours on my Ridgeback panorama and they have been great. They need fine tuning and true wheels but have plenty of power and work much better than the ones supplied by Ridgeback. My Panorama only cost £450 so I would be reluctant to spend $250 plus shipping on those. Also I am not a fan of the style I think they stick out too much and could cause injury in a collision.

Thank you Phil for your comment on these brakes. I use simialr V brakes on my hybrid as per your link to Spacycles. However as I understand things it isn’t possible (easily that is) to change to V brakes ( which I do like ) without quite some work. I have dropped bars with the gear change incorporated in the brakes. The length of the cable is significant and the possible use of a ‘travel agent ’ to allow for the cable pull etc etc. Are you saying that Spa cycles would change my present cantilver system to these V brakes advertised? As I said I have yet to test my present brakes seriously but will definitely be doing so this spring/summer. Thank you for the recommendation Phil Regards Anthony

No problem Anthony. I ordered them from Spa and fitted them in one hour and I am no expert. May have needed new cables and small sections of outer because of the lengths of the runs but it was straight forward. You can remove the original centre-pull aluminium cable stay as the new cable comes from the side. The original brake levers and repeater levers will work, no new ones are required as the travel is sufficient. I also looked into travel agents to gear up the travel but I agree they are complicated. The mini-vs don’t need the same amount of travel as the full size v‑brake. They are just 85mm not 105mm. Admittedly it is possible with them fitted the level can be pressed right onto the bars, but by that time you would be over the handle bars. The large amount of travel gives you precise control. 

It is very straight forward to fit but you could always order them and get the local bike shop to fit them.

PS the cantilevers supplied on Ridgeback tourers are on the verge of being dangerous on a fully loaded tourer down a steep hill. I recommend changing them to Tektro mini- v brakes I showed you or Tekro CR720 

http://www.highonbikes.com/tektro-cr720-cyclo-cross-bike-cantilever-brakes-front-rear.html?gclid=CjwKEAiArvTFBRCLq5-7-MSJ0jMSJABHBvp0WpP5LLsbie8YcECqv8AAZxpL0R1slUyaJFRFZzcQghoC0YTw_wcB

I don’t like them because as I previously said they stick out too much

Again many thanks Phil. You have certainly given me much to consider. However the Tektro CR720 are themselves cantilever brakes too. So I wonder why you have suggested these as a possible alternative to my present tektro Oryx cantilever brakes on my Ridgeback? They look very similar. I do appreciate your comments on this subject Anthony

the CR720s are used by my co-cyclists on tours and are much better than the oryx design in terms of efficiency. It’s all about the distance from the rim to where the cable connects, much more leverage. I included them as an alternative but would still favour the mini-v’s personally.

they look very different from your once fitted: http://bananarider.com/product/tektro-cr720/

Hi, would you consider Specialized Crosstrail Disc 2017 a good touring bike? I am looking forward to buy my first bike aiming to use it for a long tour (upto 3–6 months) next year around europe.

Also a doog opyion in my opinion: http://www.kross.pl/en/2016/trekking/trans-alp

I’ve recently purchased a Cinelli Hobooleg for £1100, although I’ve only been using it for my 10 mile commute so far I’m very happy with it.

It looks the part and from the reviews I’ve read it will hopefully see me safely around North Wales on my first proper test run later this month.

Looking at the features of these touring bikes they look like early 90s mountain bikes. 26″ wheels?Check. Steel frame? Check. Rigid fork? Check. 7/8 speed drive train with thumb shifters? Check. Braze ons for racks and fenders? Check. I would suggest folks keep an eye out for a good used mountain bike from this era and you could save a bunch while ending up with a bike just as robust, lighter and with higher quality parts(granted, said parts may need some love). I found an abandoned Rocky Mountain Team Comp which has frame tubing better than any of the bikes listed (heat treated tubing by Tange of Japan). The bikes of this era were of very high quality as it was the fastest growing sport then and the competition was fierce with leaps in steel tubing technology. Steel was still the material of choice also. I managed to build my bike up(it was missing a lot of parts) for maybe $500 and I have XTR rear derailleur, Sunrace 8 cassette, Suntour XC thumb shifters, Syncros stem, NOS XT UN73 BB…you get the picture. The additional bonus is a bike that is still quite light yet strong. I wouldn’t recommend this to someone who knows nothing about bikes but if you are a bit of a bike geek its pretty rewarding finding a good higher end mountain bike and fixing it up. Parts back then were very well made.

Hey Tom, Edinburgh Bikes have a new tourer out end of the month, http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/revolution-country‑2–16

I’m sure it’s similar to your reviewed bike above but would be great to hear your thoughts.

looking at a bike trip in 2018 from shanghai to istanbul semi-supported. been doing self-supported touring on my 25 yo trek 970 but the sour grape machine is ready to be retired. been shopping around and am considering the novara safari–i like the mustache handlebars and the price seems good but worried about the quality of components and whether 700 wheels are potentially a problem…i know 26″ is more the standard when you are in the middle of nowhere. any input would be much appreciated.

Tom, I have been researching touring bikes for quite some time and I think I have found the bike to start touring. Following your advice in this blog I picked up a 15 year old MTB that is in great shape. I will put on touring tires and a rack that I already own and I’m ready to go on some short introductory adventures. Perhaps if I really get the touring bug I will invest in a new bike but for now this will do and the price is right. Thank you.

For anyone currently looking, my local LBS, The Bike Shed Devon, have a bit of a touring sale going on at the moment. Definitely worth looking before making any decisions. http://www.bikesheduk.com/touring-bikes-for-sale

Thank you very much for the tip on discounted 2015 Dawes Galaxy AL bicycles from Evans. I just picked one up for £400!

Evans has also the Dawes Galaxy Cross cromo (steel frame, disc brakes, straight bars) for the same price. Looks like a bargain.

Having cycled and backpacked since I was at school, in my mid 50’s i decided it was time to combine the two persuites and try a spot of weekend touring. Not wanting to spend too much on a bike that i may not get on with, I bought my daughters barely used 2001 Specialized Hardrock off her. It cost me £225 new originally, so she recon I got a bargain at £40 second hand!!! It’s Cr Mo steel frame and rigid forks [not even butted], Acera group set, square drive triple chain rings and 26″ wheels, have a real solid feel, so after fitting Marathon tyres, racks, and bar ends, I treated myself to a pair of 46li Altus rear panniers and a bar bag. Packing lightweight and minimalist, my first weekend away was a real success. On my next outing of 4‑days, a rear spoke went after the first 20 miles, but no rubbing, so I finished my tour in the Cotswolds, but walked up a lot of hills. For my next trip in the Peak District, I had a new twin-wall rear wheel, and a new wider range rear cassette, still walked up many hills, but who cares, I was wild camping, and just making my route up as I went along. I keep looking at new bikes, but don’t know how I would really benefit, the bike just keeps rolling along happily for my short breaks. A new bike may weigh less. My rig weighs in at 16.5kg without panniers, how does that compare with other tourers?

So, the ultimate all-round tourer *is* a 26 inch wheel frame with geometry which looks like my many-times-earmarked-for-the-skip, first generation, double-butted cro-mo mid-80s MTB that’s in the shed? It confirms my own conclusions (though I’m no hardcore global wanderer like yourself). Interesting that it looks as if 26″ wheels will remain relevant. I was thinking there is a gap in the market for a longer and near-horizontal toptube frame style (with, perhaps, 29er wheels), instead of the downhill-style geometry which seems obligatory on all fat-tyre machinery.

[…] spend money on a good bike and the necessary gear you’ll find costs are minimal. Many good quality bikes can be purchased for less than £100. Many travelling bicyclists choose to camp at official […]

Thanks for the advice! I was faffing around for about a year trying to buy a touring bike in the UK but never quite got around to it. I’m now in Vietnam about to set off in a time pressured trip to India (through Laos, Thailand and Myanmar) and I no longer have the same access to the kinds of brands mentioned above(or budgets). I’ve found something called a Windspeed Long Rider touring classic, which is a Chinese brand, and the bike shop is offering a pretty good deal inclusive of accessories. Let’s hope it’s up to the job! Anyone have any experience or knowledge of this bike? Mostly sold only in Asia I think.

Hi. I am trying to choose a bike for touring around the world that would be a slow heavyweight may be some times off road and long term! but in my country there is not a wide choice for me! I have to choose a bike and change it into a touring one! my question is what kind of bikes is good for me! road bikes that mostly used here for races or mountain! here i can find bikes from Merida , giant, Fuji, Scott, specialized! of course I have an old Peugeot mountain bike that i was thinking about changing in to a touring bike but i am not sure! it is too old! thank you 🙂

Finally bought me touring bike, a Specialized AWOL DLT. Took your advice to try it and decided on a medium instead of a large frame (I’m 5′9″) since it was more comfortable. The problem was to find any bike shops who stocks touring bikes in Sweden, found only the AWOL, Kona Rove and Trek 520. As a plus I got a good discount, paid “only” £760 (Evans charges £1160) since the dealer said -“customers ask for touring bikes and then they do not buy them”!

Hi Rob, where in Sweden did you buy it ? I am in Norway (Oslo to be precise) and can´t find any shop stocking touring bikes.

Hi Francesco, http://www.cykelhuset.com sell Specialized AWOL, http://www.jarlacykel.se sell Trek 520 and http://www.fixmybike.se sell Kona. I have only ridden the AWOL and the Rove, both seemed very competent. Just on way back from virgin trip Sassnitz — Berlin, so far satisfied, love the 700x42c tires, perfect for tarmac and gravel!

Tom, for my 21st birthday I got a Cannondale T1000, 22 years and 15000 miles later (low mileage bike) it is going strong. It has been to Paris a couple of times, Amserdam 4 or 5 times and one long trip from Cherbourg to Santander as well as numerous day and weekend UK outings, it has towed a Tag Along for a fair few miles and had a child seat for some of its life. Much of today’s riding is spent on minor roads and tracks around the New Forest and Wiltshire. Few parts have worn out, I am on the second BB, and I upgraded the chainset to an ultegra, other than a couple of tyres, chains and cassettes I have had to do very little. I love the bar end shifters for their reliability, the XT cantilever brakes do a good job stopping the bike, even on 50 mph descents in the Pyraneese with full panniers and camping gear and my 80 kg weight. With an 11 to 32 cassette, 24 speed are fine on a tourer, spacing is well judged. It is really hard to imagine how it could be improved on.….

I just picked up a 2004 Cannondale T2000 for my son’s 13 birthday. Cost just £300 and looks fantastic, in fact looks new. I am surpised how light it is. It Has a few upgrades, including a nice Kinesis fork, which delivers a much nicer ride than my T1000 and it also has a 30 speed XT / ultegra group set and a really nice looking rack. Overall this is the nicest bike I have ever ridden, it is adjusted to perfection and feels really well sorted definately a subtle but noticeable upgrade from the T1000

How does an older mid range tourer like the Cannondale T1000 or T2000 compare with today’s mid range tourers like the Surly LHT or Daws Super Galaxy

To be honest I would be really confident that my Cannondale could tackle a more adventurous tour than I have tried

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” – that sums up any longer and more detailed response I could come up with! 🙂

hey tom! an interesting article you have here 🙂 hopefully you can shed some light on my situation. me and my mate are literally just starting out after training, we are planning a big trip! Our trip in mind is taking us from the uk, through france and to the south of spain. we figure that we want a bike that can take the distance, but can also take us as off road as is sensible. we plan on visiting a few cities also! (we’re thinking cobbled streets and some gravelly paths) so im not entirely sure what kind of bracket we fall under, but the bike i have put a deposit down for (buying new) and am collecting tomorrow, is a specialized sirrus, costing 400 pounds sterling. am i looking in the right kind of bike here considering our journey and our plans? 

as far as i understand (our beginner cycling pedigree in mind) pad brakes are risk free and easily replaced, steel frame and forks are more durable. would having flat bar handle bars restrict us some what? hope you can help! thanks, cillian.

For a trip to the south of Spain pretty much any bike will do, as long as it fits you and it can carry your luggage! (I hope you’ve test ridden this bike before buying it – most important thing of all in getting the right bike!)

Check out this blog series if you want any more info on specific components and things…

Thanks for the swift reply there Tom, yeah I’ve ridden the bike, but as I’m a complete novice, it feels better than any bike I can remember riding. I guess I’m concerned about getting a bike with the right geometry and what not! Any unbiased thoughts on the specialised sirrus as my choice? So long as it’s comfortable of coarse, thanks! Cil

Only that it’s not really a touring bike! £500 would get you a Revolution Country Traveller which would be fully kitted out for touring and has had a number of excellent reviews. You could also get a much higher-spec second hand touring bike for that money.

Fit is important, but if you’re buying a new bike it might make sense to get one that’s designed for the job at hand, rather than adapting a hybrid. Just a thought!

excellent advice good sir! its seems for now that we are settling for our hybrids in good faith that they will pay off when we are mooching around cities and taking scenic bridle ways! thanks a lot for the replies Tom, happy cycling!

Safe roads!

Do you or others on this site have experiences with the Co-Motion bicycles for touring (www.co-motion.com)? They are made in the USA (Eugene, Oregon).. 

I have a Surly LHT with many miles on it and wanted to updated to the new 2015 Disc Trucker with the 10-speen 11/36 cassette, but was considering the Co-Motion Americano. There is a LARGE price delta (Americano is around $ 4,100 US$.

Any experiences/feedback is appreciated.

Have a TERRIFIC day!

Darren Alff of Bicycle Touring Pro has it — Co-Motion Pangea — and he loves it! He had it even repainted recently and put back again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XAwqgXhRzc&t=23s See also his channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCGE4MRedy8pXEdJb9Vsx‑g

Most of the touring bikes I read about in this section either deal with 700c size wheels or 26″ wheels. I bought a Surly Ogre 29er and it’s been the best commuting/touring bike in my opinion. The wider wheels help to accommodate a wider tire (1.9–2.3) that helps absorb the load that you’d be carrying.

You can fit 1.9–2.3″ tyres on a 26″ wheel too. It is the original mountain bike wheel size, after all!

[…] Redninga for den som vil gjøre grundig research blir da å slå over til engelsk. Et bildesøk på “touring bike” bekrefter at dette begrepet har en bestemt betydning. Søket “which touring bike to buy” gir også en endeløs rekke med relevante og informative treff. Spesielt godt liker jeg rådene til min favorittsykkelblogger, britiske Tom Allen. […]

Hi Tom … any thoughts of including a recumbent in your Best Touring Bike selection? Like say an Azub 6? http://www.azub.eu/azub-5-five-recumbent-bike/

While they are the cost of two or three of the above selections I’m interested in your experience or opinions?

Because they’re very much in a niche of their own, I’d rather do a whole feature on recumbent touring options. Suggestions welcome! In the meantime, have a read of my own recumbent tour last year …

This has been an interesting read — as I’m a devout touring bike user, even though touring the world is not on my horizon. Suffolk and noerh Essex are most definitely part of my equation and between 50 — 110 miles per trip are not unusual along with cycling to and from work.

For 18 years I’ve enjoyed my long sought after 1997 Dawes Super Galaxy, which is now up for a complete drive train rebuild (and a return to drop handlebars but without those awful bar end changers), but I’m also keen to add a second bike to the collection as the Dawes is the only form of transport I have and really do need a bike to get to work for as early as 3am (outside public transport times).

My 2 options are the new 2015 Dawes Super Galaxy or the 2015 Ultra Galaxy. Yes, I’m sticking with Dawes, with my current Super Galaxy’s record why not? Also, I can get the bike via the company bike to work scheme and save some dosh. Whilst the budget is between £2000-£3000, I reason over 18 years this will become a bit of a bargain. So the question of this comment is really this:

What are the benenfits of the Titanmium Frame on the Ultra Galaxy over the Reynolds 853 tubing on the Super Galaxy frame? Do I really need to spend that extra £700?

Please, no comments about lucky you etc — it is 18 years since I last made this big an investment and apart from new tyres and inner tubes and a swap to butterfly handlebars the bike is pretty much as it came out of the shop (despite almost 100k miles of travel and commuting). I see this as the kind of purchase that is similar to that of purchasing a car…

Hi Andrew — what did you decide on in the end and are you happy with that decision? I find myself looking at exactly the same choice to make (Galaxy super vs. ultra). It’s not straightforward!

Although I am not a touring cyclist I put in quite a bit of mileage commuting (around 120 miles per week) using either a steel audax type bike (Ridgeback Mercury), alu hybrid or ancient Dawes Horizon (fitted with studded tyres for snowy/icy days). Fancying doing a bit of touring I recently bought a Revolution Explorer with disc brakes and have been riding it since Christmas. Has to be said that the disc brakes are a revelation compared to any sort of rim brake (I have tried them all apart from hydraulic); no constant adjustment, no rim wear, no filthy aluminium slurry all over the rims, silent and they actually work in the rain ( of which there is plenty here in Lancashire). The latter point saved me earlier this week when I had to do any emergency stop to avoid an idiot driver, I doubt any other sort of brake would have been up to it. And I am talking about BB5s which I understand are budget disc brakes.

I am about to buy an used tourer for occasional touring use for my son, he has a Ribble road bike. Budget £300 and I have a choice of Ridgeback World Voyage 2012 …520 CroMo.…Sora.…Alivio etc or a ‘Dale T800 2003, hardly used, Ally.…CroMo forks…Tiagra.…XT etc. I can easily make decisions at work involving lots of cash…but this one appears to have me foxed!! (I have a stable of steeds and tour on a Roberts Roughstuff, I should be able to choose!!!) Please help! Thanks one and all!

[…] utstyret du velger når du skal legge ut på en lang sykkeltur. På nettsida si har han skrevet om hva som er den beste tursykkelen. I eboka går han atskillig mer grundig til verks. Verdt å nevne er at han legger spesiell vekt […]

you forgot koga miyata 😉

I’ve just bought the 2015 Ridgback Tour.

Ive just this minute seen that aluminium frames have a much lower life expectancy than steel due to the fact that they fatigue — is this true? Ive heard that 5 years is the life expectancy of such a frame even if cared for? Have I bought a white elephant — as I planned to treasure it. Thanks.

I’ve just thinking that all bikes mentioned above are in price of year long trip. My humble suggestion is: buy retail! I bought a trek bike in pawn shop for 180euro and so far this holds for 4 seassons (16000km, regions spread from scandinavia to balkans) and now I’m preparing this beauty for 17000km long trip from czechia to indonesia. Throughout these trips I never broke a spoke (seen this problem many times in my friends Dawes) and punctured so few times that it can hardly be mentioned. So far I spend almost 6 months on the roads and during this time I spend less money than price of the cheapiest bike mentioned above.

So my advice is search it, test it, uprgade it, love it and than… finally ride it,-D Put a piece of your heart and skills into your piece of metal. Relationship between tourbiker and his bike must be stronger than click on ebay. Sorry for english and toilet phylosophy, I’m still upgrading,-D

Tom, I just wanted to say a very big thank-you for helping me choose the right touring bike. After spending many evenings checking your advice and loads of websites, I finally opted for a Dawes Galaxy Classic. I took your advice and went via eBay to Kingsway Cycles of Cambridge. I paid £900 instead of £1300 for a 2014 model! More importantly, it’s the right bike. I’ve only done about 60 miles since Saturday, but it’s really excellent. Kingsway are a great bike shop and really nice to deal with — none of that irritating superiority complex so common in good bike shops. I’d recommend them. Again, thank you. Alistair

Seven things:

Now the bike is bedding-in, before a big trip, have the LBS tighten your spokes and true the wheel(s) as required.

Take the time to ensure that the inside of the wheel rims have wide tape, not plastic or thin tape — you will thank me when you don’t get pinch-flats from the inner spoke nipples.

Chop out the brakes for V brakes. I have the same cantilever brakes, and they’re poor. It’s my next upgrade after upgrading my wheel set — as you can tell, this is real-world experience talking here!

If you fit a Ortleib (or similar) bar mounted bag, replace the existing gear cables with extra long ones since they are a little too short as standard and will crop over time and your gear shifting will become increasing difficult and then the front mech’ will cease working.

If you are running Shimano gearing,chain etc make sure the jockey wheels are not a 3rd party set, if so, buy Shimano ones, they work better than others.

You will notice as you ride, most of the touring bikes you’ll encounter are Dawes; how cool is that?

The enjoyment of your adventure is reflected in the width of your daft Cheshire-Cat grin, so grin, then grin some more!

Fantastic! I hope you get many years of touring enjoyment from it!

Hello Tom & Co.,

Do you have input on preferred bikes / systems for long rides with two young kids? 

Preferably sub-$2,000 (US), with a granny gear, and disc brakes.

I am trying to figure out which adult touring bike (and system) to use with my kids. The four-year old child will be in an attached trailer bike (with coupler), and the two-year old child will be in a chariot trailer behind that (via skewer hub)…unless someone has a better idea.

I already own a Specialized Tarmac for zipping around, and a Santa Cruz mountain bike for the trails. For a few years, I’ve reluctantly used my carbon fiber Tarmac for pulling my oldest child in the Chariot trailer. The ergonomics are all wrong, especially in the hills.

Now I have both a four-year old and a two-year old child, plus we live in major mountains. I want to do LONG family rides, and commutes around town (paved / gravel mixed). Ideally the bike could also be used for (solo) century rides. Once they are older, I’d like to explore multi-day touring with me on the same bike.

Salsa Vaya? Trek 520? Surly LHT, Cross Check, or Straggler? 

Big thanks!

[…] started thinking about this tour; my thoughts immediately went to the tried&true options for bike touring (Surly LHT for example), and I was waiting for a deal to pounce on online for months.  But living […]

3864 miles thus far (26 Sept 2014) around Britain and without doubt the most popular bike is the Dawes, maybe 80% (?) streel framed in the majority, and whilst we are at it, Ortlieb panniers, also in the majority.

I am on a 2008 Dawes SG. Rubbish cantilever brakes — to be replaced in short order. Replaced the wheels as the rims were concave, but she is an eBay Special (£590) likewise the four panniers (£83). Fantastic combo with Tubus steel racks.

Hi Tom, I believe the bikes from German Company Tout Terrain have a good name as well. Namely the “Silkroad” seems a fantastic bike to me. Expensive but has all the gimmicks I like to have (Rohloff and disc brakes). http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/bicycles/silkroad/

i was stranded in london on the 4th aug (after losing my oyster and bank cards) leaving me with just £10 and a predicament a quick look on gumtree found me a nearby bike (complete with 21 speeds and rack and double panniers inc cycle comp for my insane budget and now 10 days later its covered 120 miles and by far best buy ever for a tenner 🙂

ps i live 18 miles away in the subarbs so as to speak

Love the site, especially the discussions on this page!

I’m interested in your views on bar-end shifters. My wife’s Sabbath Silk Route was stolen in Amsterdam recently and she’s loathe to spend quite so much on a replacement. Many of the sub-£1,000 tourers seem to have bar-end shifters and she’s a bit nervous about taking them on. What are the pros and cons compared with integrated brake lever shifters? Quite like the look of the Genesis Tour de Fer but the bar end shifters are the only sticking point.

Pros: Simple, durable, reliable.

Cons: Less efficient to actually operate; inexperienced users whack their knees on them.

For a long-term tourer I’d take bar-end or downtube shifters over STIs any day.

I bought the Tour de Fer and did an 8 day tour in Greece. Its an excellent bike and I’m really happy with it but the bar shifters are annoying. I decided to upgrade the bike with a tubus tara front rack and a son dynamo hub with a plug usb charger. I’ll do a review of the bike later as I’m about to set off on a tour to Singapore something its probably not designed for but it came within my Ride-To-Work budget and I’m not a fan of the 26inch tourers I’d rather take my chances in the bikes shops. FYI the new version has a flat bar instead of drops and a tubus tara lowrider as standard — bonus! Love your site it’s been invaluable in my tour planning

You can always move the bar end shifters up onto the flats using a solution like Pauls Thumbies or SJS do their own version. It’s just a bolt on bracket with a mount for the shifter and a cable stop. If you ride mainly on hoods and flats then they are much easier to reach than down at the end of the drops. Cable maintenance is easier as well.

Many thanks for your excellent website. I’m thinking of doing Land’s End to John O’Groats and have seen a Raleigh Gran Tour at our local cycle shop. It seemed fine on a trial run round the block. Any significant pros or cons that I need to be aware of?

Nick check out the Surly Long Haul Disc Trucker it will be the best Touring Bike you will ever buy and will take you anywhere wheel size go for 26 and you can travel the world buy once not twice

Thanks John. I’ll check it out. 

Another issue that’s coming up is tourers vs endurance bikes. Any strong preferences either way, anyone?

Are you doing an endurance ride? Or are you going on a cycle tour?

Different tools for different jobs…

Hi Tom, I was wondering if you had any experience or knowledge of the Cinelli Hobo? It does seem to come as a fairly complete package as well as a 61 frame which is good for a tall person like myself.

I’m afraid I don’t! Sorry! It does look like a good bike, though.

I have a cinelli hobo for mixed trail touring. I find it incredibly comfortable and a really good load hauler. Some of the stock parts are pretty poor, particularly the FSA alpha drive chainset (replaced with Deore, and the alex rims on sora hubs which i’ve recently replaced. The weakest part of the setup for me is the microshift bar end shifters… I had real trouble keeping them indexed. I have swapped for an old pair of Tiagra STI shifters and these feel much better with a deore chainset and rear mech.

It has shorter chainstays than my old galaxy but still has plenty of heel clearance fitted with ortlieb classic panniers. The bars are the most comfortable I have ever used!

Overall i’m really pleased with it as it suits my choice of riding on mixed road, track and trail with a nice blend of cyclocross and touring capabilities… just a shame the marketing around the bike is so goddamn annoying!

I am planning a touring for next year, I was thinking to get a bicycle with a 29’‘ rim using a 28c tyre, i also plan to use mavic hubs, but i am not sure how tough a mavic hub can be on long touring distances, i guess i may not have problems as far i get some spare bearings and parts for the hubs. any suggestion about the rim sizes? will a 27″ rim do the same job as a 29’’ rim size? I have seen that NS has some cool looking hubs, i know they are for dirt-jump bikes, but those are something i consider dues they are do to resist hard impact of daily trainings, but my doubt is if a a hub for hard impact interfere with speed and smooth riding, by logic i guess it doesn’t interfere depending on what bearing it uses…am i right? Ps.: i enjoy cycling fast. lol

i found some other hub, the DT Swiss looks pretty good… but they don’t have a nice front hub with Disk break, that is what is pity, but i may get normal brakes, cos the disk brake has a high cost maintenance …

Where are you going? Your primary consideration is spare parts availability. 26″ or 700c wheels are the only sensible choice for 99% of tours, and I wouldn’t recommend anything other than Shimano cup-and-cone hubs with loose bearings and easy maintenance, ideally XT. They’re tour proven and won’t need a second thought.

Have found your website invaluable in the preparation of a bike trip my brother and I are making from London to Istanbul on August 10 (our first bike trip). I bought your book this afternoon on Amazon too as it should be a handy guide on the trip.

I’m just about to buy a bike and have come down to the Dawes Galaxy 2014 for £691 and the Raleigh Sojourn, which I founded hugely discounted here for £689 (down from £1,100!): http://www.ashcycles.com/site/raleigh-sojourn-2013 . I’d be very grateful if you (or anyone else on this page) could suggest what you think would be the better buy for my budget of £700?

Cheers, Shaun

Very glad you’ve found this site useful.

In my experience, which touring bike to buy depends on choosing the right tool for the job, and seeing what feels good to ride. I’m going to guess that you’re fairly sure both these bikes will meet your needs, but that you haven’t tried either of them out. So the only useful suggestion I can offer is to see which you can test-ride locally. On paper they’re as good as identical. You can discuss specification charts until the cows come home but it’ll all be irrelevant once you’ve actually started riding.

Ideally you’d test-ride both, but if you can only try one, then at least you can either eliminate it from your shortlist or confirm that it’ll do the job — then buy it.

The other critical reason for testing bikes out is to ensure that you get the right size, as incorrectly-sized bikes are the biggest source of discomfort and even injury on tour.

Hope this helps!

Thanks a lot for the tip Tom and appreciate you taking the time out to respond to me.

I’m based in HK and so unfortunately won’t be able to test-ride either of them (only a narrow window in London and they have to be ordered in advance), but if you say that the specs are identical then it makes the decision a bit easier — comes down to the aesthetics now!

I’ve got a KHS TR-101, bought from Cycle Surgery. Since these are relatively uncommon, I thought I’d put up my thoughts.

It’s a lovely bike to ride and I’ve done 2 3‑week trips to New Zealand South Island on it, usually somewhere between 50 and 100km a day. But I do think the brakes are not good enough for a tourer — I’m going to switch mine out after realising as I coasted down from Arthurs’ Pass in the rain with a loaded bike that I couldn’t stop even if I wanted to — and the mudguard fittings have been annoying — little plastic clips which pop ou, and which don’t hold the guard far out, so it rubs the tyres if the guard gets even slightly warped. Both easily replaced though. I’ve carried medium weights on it — prob. ca. 20kg — with ease, using both front and back racks and it feels very smooth and well-balanced. In fact, I think it’s the easiest bike I’ve ever ridden in that respect. Even the stock saddle is OK although I’m finally switching to a Brooks.

I don’t find the gears allow me to get up big hills when it’s loaded (but that might be just me — I’m not very gritty about hills.…) but it’s very smooth to handle and way faster than most other bikes off the bigger hills. 

I’ve done almost all on road on it and wouldn’t do off road again after an 80km run on the gravel Mavora Lakes road — it coped but it wasn’t nice (could have been the headwind…).

I’m planning one or two more 3 week tours on it (New Zealand again, and then maybe Sri Lanka) but am trying to work out whether in the long term I should just upgrade the parts, or actually invest in another bike. It’s a lovely cycle though — I’d really recommend it, although if you are looking for a real round-the-world workhorse it might be worth looking at some of the more established models. 

No bike is without problems, it aint about the bike without blood, sweat and tears :-X

Hi Tom — Great site, very informative and helpful. I´m looking at setting up my first Touring / Expedition rig.

Wondering if you wouldn´t mind commenting on Santos Bikes out of Holland? I see they make some great looking touring bikes, but only in Aluminium.…I asked them why they dont do Steel and their reply was that the Steel / Belt Drive combination is not good, ie to flexible and that the belt will wear just as fast as a regular chain, therefore, they go with Aluminium?? Any comment. Also, thoughts on the Belt Drive in Combination with a Rohloff Hub??

I´m looking at a go anywhere, do anything rig…2 week tours in Europe and RTW adventures. 

Thanks if you can help me out and keep up the great work 🙂

Hi guys, spoilt for choices,the steel v ali debate?? V brake or disc??Santos i havent seen but if its dutch id expect its a good bike, like koga who use aluminium for rtw touring(a reason people like ali is light for air transit, and it wont rust like steel) but can be a harsh ride,so invest in a suspension seat and a brooks saddle,backside will thank ya..Roholf or mech?? Roholf belt drive i have met a tourer using and he was happy with it, expensive combo but if it rolls for 100,000klm and comp have good rep. As it comes to preference and trail n error..I a bit like yourself wanted a rtw expadition bike. I got a thorn ripio frame which i then built up myself …doing that i chose my best spec bits xt tubus fsa brookes ergo etc( finding good reductions online) and most important get to know how it goes together ..useful as often u must rely on yourself to fix the problem and keep those wheels rolling:-) i like steel frames as they flex and are more comfortable with luggage…frames i would say are worth considering are as mentioned by others, surly lht , thorn and an excellent other is onone.…another option is to find a good old used bike/steel frame i.e 90’s atb/mtb models by specialised, trek, orange and upgrade as reqiured. Invest in strong wheels if offroading full loaded and good tyres, schwable marathon xr are excellent and after 20,000 klms they still got tread. A final thought an expensive shiny touring bike looks great to the owner and a theif, to protect my ride i wrap the frame in old inner tube and tape so protecting frame from damage and making my pride and joy look like a dirty ol ride! Thats all folks:-)

Thanks for the contribution!

Sadly the Schwalbe Marathon XR was discontinued years ago now 🙁

Hi tom and troops„, yeah the xr was too good „buy once product, found early originals recently 2 in holland…(where else.. for any tourers holland is ur candy store). So what u rollin on these days??? p.s u on a tour??? Bon route:-)

Not right now, no. But I have my own stash of XRs for when I am 🙂

Hi Tom, very interesting article. My wife and I are looking to buy touring bikes. We would use them in Europe initially — we have a small child who will be with us on a seat so we’ll leave Africa and Asia etc for a few years. I was thinking of a Genesis Croix de Fer , 725 reynolds probably rather than the expensive 931. What are your thoughts? Versatile but do you think they fall between two stools. Thanks, Mark

The Surly long Haul Disc Trucker not only Ticks all the Boxes but you will only ever need to purchase this bicycle Once No need to upgrade this bicycle will be perfect and last a lifetime of Touring wherever your dreams take you Go for the 26 wheels far stronger and gives you an extra gear on steep inclines happy cycling

Sorry, Now I have seen that you have an article about the Tern Link P24 and touring with a folding bike. My suggestion was totally redundant.

But no less appreciated! Thank you for a great summary (and much a much broader one than mine!)

Thanks Tom for all your great articles. I think that folding bikes are a serious alternative for long-term touring. Certainly less sturdy but have many advantages, easy to carry on planes or busses if needed or into hotel rooms and tents for added security. They are getting better with more reliable frames, even with full suspension (Reise und Muller birdy touring) and all the best specs up to Rohloff and dynamo hubs. Small wheels are not good beyond tarmac or good dirt tracks but there are a foding bikes with 24″ and 26″, though I will go for 20″ as a perfect balance between comfort, stable handling and still compact size when folded, bearing in mind it may nor be the best option to do the Pamir highway or crossing the Andes. There are some models speced for touring with pannier racks, mudguards etc. Tern link P24, Dahon MU with alfine 11 and the awsome Birdy. Worth considering.

[…] reading the reviews of Tom Allen and reading a bit about what is important in a touring bicycle, I became convinced that the Kona […]

Hello Tom, your website is amazing, well done! I’m about to undertake a long bike tour through Asia and Europe …unfortunately my budget is very limited. I think I will buy the kona sutra but I also saw this bike which I really like http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/anyroad.1/14819/66151/ Can you please give me some advice comparing the two models?

I will also convert the bike in an e‑bike with the golden motor magic pie conversion kit plus a solar panel . Do you think the conversion will affect the efficiency of the bike?

Thank you very much for the help Vince

Hi Tom, Great article thanks! I bought a 2008 Ridgeback Panorma World Tour in 2011 and I have loved every moment on it. It’s the old BMW grey model. I have been an occassional cyclist for much of my life but it was only when i got this bike that it really made me want to do more and more miles. We have done the UK coast to coast and will be doing the Way of the Roses in the next few weeks; also did Penrith to John O’Groats when I met up with friends doing LeJog. It eats up the miles and has been bullet proof. Once it’s rolling it flies and the Deore gearing gets me up anything. If anyone is considering this model I wholeheartedly recommend it. I swapped out the saddle for a Brooks B17 and put Ortlieb panniers on it and both have been unbeatable performers. I only wish I could match them 🙂 Cheers Mart

i thank for this advice.this would encourage many of them to cycle.i to got encouraged. i have cycled about Km400 this is just the start,i think all cyclist belong to one family.

I’m planning on building a bike for a round the world adventure but I’m overwhelmed by the choices of frames! Surly, thorn, Kona… The obvious choice for a frame would be a Surly Long Haul, but the geometry doesn’t fill me with excitement. My dream bike and frame is the Santos 2.6 (It looks and feels more like a MTB than a tourer), but at almost £800 for the frame it’s way out of my price range. Flat bars or butterflys are a must for me as I really don’t understand this facination with dropdowns. Top of my list currently and within my price range is a Surly Troll. What are your thoughts about the troll as a world tourer? Should I stick with the tried and tested Surly Long Haul (although I’m not sure if the LHT geometry is ideal for flat bars) or go a bit leftfield and try the Troll?

getting ready for a st malo — malaga ride in the spring and am looking at the Specialized Awol:

http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/awol

How would you say it compares with the Kona Sutra?

Fantastic website, btw.…

It looks like an interesting bike, if a rather specialised one (sorry) — almost a dirt-road racer with luggage racks, which I think is what Kona have tried to do with the Sutra (mistakenly IMHO; should have been a new model altogether). It looks like a bike for light and nimble loads rather than fully-loaded touring, with 32-spoke wheels and the 10-speed Sora chainset. I’d be very interested to hear a road test report if you do go with it.

Bob Nally!! You may think trying to advertise in here is a good thing which either makes you extremely clever or extremely stupid, which is it folks?? thanks for the info Bob but just encase your advertising here hadn’t noticed this is a about info, advice and camaraderie between true people that have cyling in their heart and you may (or may not) realise this, anyway. guys im a very short woman 4.10 so finding it very hard to find a touring bike to suit me (my mountain bike is 14 inches) but i’m finding it very hard to find something withing my price limit Tom and everyone else, I’m looking for a man’s tourer that can suit my height (I CAN NOT STAND THE LOOK OF WOMANS BIKES) lol so hopefuly I can have Tom or someone else to give me a tip on a “short ass” tourer lol

Does Bob Nally work for Ash Cycles, then? If so, he probably has cycling in his heart too. I’m pleased to hear about it if there’s a relevant deal on, though it would be nice if people disclosed their affiliations of course.

What’s your price limit, Pam? The 26-inch Surly LHT is available right down to a 42cm frame. After that you’ve got seatpost, saddle, stem and cranks to tweak the fit.

For anyone looking for a new bike AshCycles (UK) have the Dawes Galaxy Classic 2013 (and many more bikes) discounted to £879.95 with free delivery.

Thanks for pointing this out!

Hi Tom, I´ve been falling you for over a year and love the movie and the book. I feel like the world is telling me to move south–I´m in Colombia right now and I want to go to Argentina. I am looking into bikes to buy here, and it is very difficult to find aone in a place full of little people (I´m 193cm tall). But that is a problem that I can manage. 

Here in Bogota, these types of cargo racks ( http://bogotacity.olx.com.co/biciclta-panadera-iid-578339198 ) are very popular and they can definately hold a bunch of weight (they usually come in black). I know that there would be wind issues, especially with the front rack–but what do you think of mounting one of these on the back or possibly mounting on both the front and the back of a bike. I´m not too worried about speed but much more worried about control. 

On another note, I bought this from kickstarter ( http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/flykly/flykly-smart-wheel ) and when it is developed and shipped to me this summer, I plan to use it to get from point A to point B… I don´t know if it will work or not, the only downside is that I cannot change gears with it… We´ll see. 

On another note–can you recommend a book for learning how to repair/assemble a bike… 

Thanks in advance for the advice and I will probably have a hundred more questions in the coming weeks and months… Say hi to your brother Ben for me… If everything goes to hell in a handbasket, I might just fly to Lebanon in February for the big event.

Hey Wes… faced with a cargo rack decision like that, the only way to know for sure is to take one for a test ride. I think you’d attract a fair amount of attention if you did go with it! 🙂

The Park Tool website is the number one resource for bicycle repair tuition. I’m not aware of a specific book, though.

Drop me an email if you have any more questions — always happy to help.

Hi Tom, just discovered your website and am so inspired that my wife, daughter and I are planning a tour to Paris next year. Anyway…I have a Specialized Sirrus hybrid that to my novices eye seems to be similar to most of the touring bikes above. The only obvious difference being aluminum frame, flat bars and no racks etc. The components all seem similar. Would there be much point in changing to a tourer? Cheers.

If you can fit a rear rack to that frame, you’re good to go. Even if you can’t, a seatpost rack will do you from here to Paris. Enjoy!

Touring bikes are great if you need full camping gear. I rode a kona Jake the snake lisbon-istanbul, cuba etc, cyclocross bikes should be considered for light touring is.bivy sack and no cooking gear. Super fast, built strong to off road and just more fun and nimble to ride, if that’s your thing. I haven’t been carrying front panniers though, not sure how would ride. I’d encourage really trying to lighten everything up, gear and bike, more rewarding — but this does assume staying within a few hundred km of a store/restaurant/hostel although can be self sufficient for a few days.

Just love this site, ride on tom!

Thanks Yuri. I can count the number of times I’ve been more than a day’s ride from supplies on the fingers of one hand. Almost everyone could “lighten up” and go fast and nimble. I guess it depends on your priorities for being on the road!

Was wondering why you haven’t put any of the Thorn Bikes on your list?..Maybe the Sherpa would be a good mid-range,no? Ian

I haven’t read all the comments so I don’t know if it’s been mentioned (I’ll also hold my hands up here and say I work there) but if we’re talking mid-high end touring bikes then Spa Cycles are worth looking at — http://www.spacycles.co.uk there is now a steel tourer available which is competitively priced.

If we’re talking relatively small UK touring ‘brands’ then Thorn would be worth mentioning too.

Thanks Ben! I haven’t included Thorn here as they’re a bit pricey for the mid-range, but I’ll do so in a future piece on higher end tourers…

No problem, really enjoyed the film on Tuesday in Leeds. Has given me even more enthusiasm for riding the 270 miles home to Dorset for xmas in a week or so. 🙂

I did 6000 miles on my 2011 Cannondale CAADX. The Only upgrade was a pair of heavy duty handbuilt touring wheels a Son 28 Hub and some Schwalbe Marathons.…. I have to say it was the driest 3 month trip you could imagine so the lack of crap picked up to wear the Bike out was noticeable… The Only mechanicals, 2 broken cable and about 4 punctures. Get your bike looked over/serviced before you go and remember this, when you ride your bike normally, what usually goes wrong… I bet nothing.….

Hello Tom & thanks for your very useful and cheerful writings. I’m just getting back into bike touring, and still using my faithful 1977 Dawes Super Galaxy, nearly all original but with a re-enamelling job on the frame. Still pretty well perfect for my long but slow road trips. Brittany’s rolling country is a mine of varied and beautiful scenery : have you tried it? All the best

I haven’t been to Brittany since a school camping trip in 1999… maybe I should 🙂

Tom, you’d be very welcome! so yes, maybe you should! You have my e‑mail via this page, I imagine, so let me know if you’re over here & the Super Galaxy will be wheeled out! 🙂

Hi Tom I’m looking for a top end light tourer that’s very comfortable, capable of going as fast as a tourer can go and at home on Tarmac and on dusty tracks. I intend to carry minimal luggage too. How does the Van Nicholas Amazon (or Yukon) Rohloff compare to the Thorn Mercury? Which would you chose?

I’m sorry but I have absolutely no idea! The only way to know for sure is to ride both. It sounds like your requirements are quite specialised, whereas I’m only really intending to cover generalist mid-range tourers in this article. Sorry!

Thanks a lot for the article. The best I could find on the issue over the net.

My question is, did you get to try Kona Sutra 2014 already? I can’t find any comparisons ; 2013 vs. 2014 — yet there’s the huge change of frame.

I haven’t ridden it myself, but here’s my piece on the changes .

I’ve got a bit of a silly question : How should a touring bike “ride”? I’ve been on “racing” bikes forever and find them comfortable and fun to ride. I’ve been hunting for a touring bike and while they are comfortable to cruise around a bit, they seem far too upright for my riding comfort (makes me feel like I’m riding one of those cheap stationary bikes at the gym, on the first one I tried, I had to drop all the spacers on the stem to get comfy, but then ran into issues with the brake stop/hanger not clearing the head tube) and they feel a bit sluggish and hard to “toss around”, especially when out of the saddle on climbs, even in comparison to my light-weight steel mountain bike. I can see why ultra-low gearing is recommended if all you can do is sit and hammer up the climbs. Is that how it is supposed to be?

Hi Isaac I have recently ridden from Adelaide to Darwin on a Tout Terrain bike and I think there are several characteristics that make the touring bike the right one for you. You need to be comfortable if you are going to spend up to 10hrs in the saddle and the more upright positions of most ‘tourers’, seem to take the weight and pressure from your hands/ arms. Also, the touring bike should never feel “twitchy”, especially when loaded. My Tout Terrain rides the same when laden or un-laden and when you find yourself carrying 15kgs of water plus all other camping gear etc, the bike needs to be predictable. Many bike frames will twist when under a load; as a result, your control, reliability and comfort will suffer. I also like having handlebars that give multiple hand positions, which helps with fatigue. The other consideration is that you are an accomplished road bike rider. You are ‘familiar’ with this lower profile riding position and the road bike handling characteristics. This may be why every other riding position feels foreign. Load up a few different bikes including a road bike and try them out on a few long day trips. Consider the advice of others, but ultimately you need to enjoy touring and your decision should be based on what is right for you. As Tom advises, just get out there and problem solve. In essence, ‘touring’ is not a race and almost any bike can be used. You just need to select the one that feels right for you.

Cheers Mark — I echo these sentiments.

Have you tried riding one with a full load (i.e. 15–25kg luggage split between the front and rear)? A touring bike should feel reassuring and stable under such circumstances as it’s what they’re designed for. Riding them unburdened is not going to give you a realistic sense of the ‘ride’.

Cockpit setup is largely personal preference, I think. I’ve seen people touring on everything from upright shopping bikes to mountain bikes to racers with drops — it’s what you prefer. Personally I choose being upright and able to look at my surroundings rather than tucked down grinding away at the asphalt.

Tossing them around and hammering up climbs is not really part of the touring style — taking it slow and steady, especially uphill, is what allows you to reach the end of a day with a hundred k on the clock.

Hope that helps!

Bianchi Volpe

just wondering if a cheap tourer such as the Raleigh Royal or Revolution Country Traveller ’13 would be suitable enough for a first tour of say 3–4 weeks on EuroVelo network through Germany? have done a bit of mountain biking before, and am a commuting cyclist everyday but I don’t really know that much about bikes

Any comfortable bike will do you for 3–4 weeks in one of the most cycle-friendly countries on the planet!

I can vouch for the Revolution Country Traveller. For the money (£430.00 in the sale!) its a surprisingly comfortable and capable bike. Swapped the saddle to a Brooks but otherwise its been perfect.

I saw that the link for the Rocky Mountain Sherpa was broken. Here’s the new URL:

http://www.bikes.com/en/bikes/sherpa/2013

I am moving to Norway and want to get more into touring, would an 2005 trek 6500 mountain bike work for touring? Link to the bike http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2005/archive/trek/6500/#

Any bike will work for touring if you’re determined enough!

You’ll just need to find a way of mounting a rack. Tubus do seatstay clamp kits for bikes like this. Your other option is a trailer like the Extrawheel .

Thanks for the guide. Think I’ll go with the surly long haul trucker. Why? Because I saw a girl with one on the train after she’d come back from an across Britain ride. So I wanted one!

Lo mejor es que a partir de la accin y de la memoria del equipo. Una vez instalado aprieta el botn de encendido que ven en la nube. Sabemos que Nokia ha lanzado un nuevo juego java para celular, es que HTC podr renacer y volver a reproducirlo. La informacin recopilada en nuestro sitio Hoy 9tres tecnologia y servicios estimamos los mejores del ao. Llegaron a descubrir la agricultura y la envia a la interconexin entre centrales 9tres tecnologia y servicios y pblicas. La interfaz es mucho ms fcil, pero me parece curiosa la decisin 9tres tecnologia y servicios de Acer de incorporar Windows 8 que posee? brujerias para enamorar a un hombre http://journals.fotki.com/watersbaxq/my-blog/entry/krbkbqdfbfrr/

Tom have a look at Thorn Sherpa I have one it’s great

Hi Tom, it’s that time of the year when all you want to do is load up your bike, jump on the ferry to France and just go wherever the mood takes you. It’s also the time when you just devour all the reviews and conversations about bikes and gear and destinations. I love it. I’ve had my Dawes Super Galaxy for over 25 years now. It’s the single best item I have ever spent money on and, if I had to get rid of all my bikes bar one, it’s the one I’d keep. I’m in awe of its Rolls-Royce levels of reliabilty, comfort and smoothness. I’ve ridden 10s of thousands of miles on it and it still rides like a dream every time. All the way across the Pyrenees last year; fully loaded, 900kms, 50,000 ft of climbing, horrific weather, faultless. If the new models are as good as the old ones (and they should be) then you couldn’t go wrong with a Galaxy.

Hi, I am not new to cycling but am to touring. I just purchased a Tout Terrain SilkRoad Frame with derailleur hanger (not getting the Rohloff hub version) and want to build it up with durable components. Plan on using drop bars, 26″ wheels, and cable disc brakes. I also like grip shift but don’t know if this is compatible with drop bars, or even if they are still made. Would prefer mountain bike components. Any recommendations for which components group (model year 2013) to get that would be true and durable. I hear Shimano XT is good and light but durability is not what it used to be. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance. J

PS Cash is a factor but don’t want to sacrifice quality either.

Ideally you’d build an 8‑speed drivetrain from a mixture of components (8sp chains being thicker than 9sp and therefore longer lasting). Deore to XT ranges are durable and rugged. Beyond XT it’s about saving weight for racing, with durability sacrificed, so don’t go there. 

The rear derailleur will take more abuse than the front one. 9sp Shimano rear mechs work with 8sp shifters (at least, mine does).

Grip shifts are certainly still made but I have no idea about using them with drops…

Many thanks for your response Tom; the questions you wrote are certainly eminently practical and sensible.

Perhaps it could be assumed that 32 spoke set-ups are strong enough, given that Rohloff and the expedition bike manufacturers, who stake their reputation on reliability and longevity, use that set-up. Though, having said that, it seems Rohloff are now making a 36 hole hub (according to their website).

According to the Thorn website, spoke breakage was an issue; an issue they solved by drilling the spoke holes on the rim differently. Presumably Santos use the same technique as they also hand build their wheels.

You are absolutely correct in saying that the long distance cyclist should be able to repair such things as broken spokes and derailleur malfunctions (and etc). In terms of enjoying trips though, It’s much nicer if nothing goes wrong (ie Murphy’s law takes a holiday). As much as I enjoy servicing and working on my bikes (the mechanics are such “elegantly simple” bits of technology), I prefer the comfort of my own garage. For those reasons a reliable, strong and well prepared bike would be desirable — and that is an answer to your original question about “which bike?”.

Regarding derailleur and Rohloff gears — derailleurs have certainly stood the test of time, though newer sets with more gears may be more finicky than older versions. For that reason, and when the range of use-able gears is considered, the Rohloff hub is attractive (except for the cost — a 60000 km break-even point may not be achievable for many tourers). Interesting that you have heard of misfortunes with Rohloff hubs — I hadn’t, which indicates that I need to do more research. Perhaps a question to be considered here is, “why are top-end touring bike (and some MTB) manufacturers using Rohloff hubs?” Presumably the perceived reliability is a part of the answer to that?

Mind you, all the theorising in the world is still bound by practical experience. 4000 km into last year’s trip the drive train needed replacing (this inconvenience was my fault really, as I should have renewed the components before setting out — the bike was relatively new and I left the original equipment just to see how long good quality components would last). The chain and cluster were easily replaced, but I had to ride another 1000 km without the use of the middle chainring, until I was able to buy a suitable replacement. It was then that I started considering alternatives — a Rohloff hub is one possibility, perhaps also the gears at the bottom bracket, such as fitted to one of the Tout Terrain models.

Anyway, interesting discussion and I look forward to your assessment of the “upper” end of the touring bike market.

Thanks again

If it helps, the builders I’ve spoken with say that the 32 spoked Rohlof hub is stronger than a handbuilt 40 spoked tandem wheel. This makes sense when thinking about dishing and the inherent weakness it introduces to the wheel. The other thing, of course, is that it is easier to repair a broken spoke on the chainside of a Rohlof hub than on a dished wheel with a cogset.

This has been a very interesting discussion — many thanks.

In response to your original question about other brands that might be considered be considered; no one seems to have mentioned the Santos Travelmaster bikes, in 26 and 28 in sizes and in aluminium or cromo.

Now, if I may lead to a dilemma. In one of your responses you referred to a concern that a new derailleur gear system with 30 gears may not yet have been “proven” to be reliable for long tours (paraphrasing your response). That is a good point, borne out by my experience — my older 26 in MTB/hybrid has 21 gears (perhaps indicates how old the bike is) and has never needed adjusting, while my newer 28 in with 27 gears needs frequent attention. Even though I do all the servicing myself and can generally adjust the gears satisfactorily, it can be a pain spending time adjusting the gears while touring (I’d much rather be riding or photographing or sipping cappuccinos in a wayside café). This has led me to consider a Rohloff hub.

That leads to the dilemma. The Rohloff hub bikes (Tout Terrain Silk Road, Thorn Nomad, vsf TX1000 and Santos Travelmaster and possibly Gudereit are all under consideration) all use 32 spokes. I am nervous about dropping from 36 spokes. The theory is that, because the Rohloff hub does not require a “dished” spoke set-up, it is stronger (than the equivalent deraileur set-up). The issue is that I cannot find any info that states how much stronger. One blog mentioned that 26 in wheels are about 10% stronger than 28 in wheels (with the same number of spokes) — but what the 10% is “of” was not explained, and what the measurement of “strength” is was also not explained. Questions remain hanging — is a 32 spoke undished 26 in wheel stronger than a 36 spoke 28 in wheel, for example? What is the “hierarchy of strength” when considering 26 and 28 in, dished and undished wheels?

This leads, of course, to really basic questions such as, for example, “would a vsf TX1000 ( 28 in wheels with wider tyres) be as strong as my current 28 in with 36 spokes”? How much stronger are the Santos wheels with 32 spokes, given that they are hand-made? And so on…

So, if there is anyone who could shed light, with facts, on this dilemma, it would be very much appreciated.

As a final point, I wonder if the steel/aluminium frame issues is now a non-issue — an idea espoused by a metallurgist-cyclist when considering modern frames?

Many thanks

Hi Phil. Thanks for the detailed comment.

The main reason I haven’t included the Travelmaster here is because it’s a top-end touring bike, whereas in this article I’ve been focussing on mid-range bikes. I’ll definitely include it in a future article about top-end bikes, though, along with the other bikes you mentioned — thanks for bringing them to my attention.

Regarding hubs and spokes, I think that the important question here is:

“Would Rohlhoff hubs be fitted to top-end touring bikes if spoke-count was a real issue?”

I doubt it. I hear more tales of Rohlhoff internals failing than spokes breaking. Which begs another question:

“Is it easier to repair a derailleur system or a Rohlhoff wheel on the roadside?”

My money’s on the derailleur. That’s why I’ll keep using them over internally-geared hubs.

And instead of asking what percentage of extra strength 36 spokes gives over 32, I’d be asking:

“Am I able to replace a broken spoke?”

Because that’s what you’ll be thinking when a spoke does inevitably break 🙂

I’ve been using a VSF TX1000 for over a year & completed over 2,000 miles (fully loaded) last autumn through Spain & France on a variety of roads & canal paths… my experience has been very positive… the 32 spoke Rohloff & Son28 wheels show no sign of wear & are true as the day I got them????

Hi Tom! Any comments on the Brodie Elan: http://brodiebikes.com/2013/bikes/elan.php

I tested the Sutra but after trying both 56 & 59 could not make up my mind on what was the right size for me. I am 6 feet tall so I guess I might be somewhere in between. On the other hand I also tried the Brodie Elan 54 & 57 and the 57 felt to big for me… Thanks in advance for any feedback

I’m surprised that the Fuji Touring did not make your list. I’ve been looking around and it seems like a solid touring bike at a good price. 

BTW — I just stumbled across your site and I’m impressed! I’ll be back soon.

Hello, Tom. Why you advice only steel frame bicycles? There’s a lot bikes with alluminuim frame and fork. It’s lighter and easy to buy everywhere.

The main reasons are durability and for ease of repair. Steel has a much longer fatigue limit, and in case of breakage can be welded anywhere by anyone with basic welding equipment. Aluminium, on the other hand, needs specialist attention — in less developed countries this could mean going to an airport. Frame breakages are not uncommon on long-haul tours and that’s why most quality long-distance touring bikes are still made of steel.

Personally, I also prefer the ride quality of a steel frame; there’s a little more give over the very stiff ride afforded by aluminium. For long term comfort that does become noticeable.

For short and occasional touring, I have no doubt that most aluminium frames would be fine, though.

Tom, that old chestnut about a steel bike being welded anywhere by anyone is quite amusing. That is the theory. In reality it takes a skilled welder who has experience with bicycle frames to do that job properly. Yes, you might get a rough cut job to hold your frame together to the next port but on a loaded bike i would’t fancy it. And how many people do you know who have actually had this done in practice?

I do agree with you that the steel frame gives a much nicer and more comfortable ride and that such a frame has much better strength which are great reasons to get steel.

Lots. Including me (Yemen). Andy (India). Al (Sudan). Etc. There’s quite a list. Very common story on very long trips. The fact that any old welder can get you to the next port is the whole point. We all had steel frames and we all managed to continue riding.

On the other hand, I know several aluminium-riding tourers who ended up hitchhiking with broken bikes and then waiting around in cities for new frames to be couriered out because they couldn’t get them repaired at all.

Salsa , Rivendale , Co Motion , Koga Miata — if you looking for really nice touring bike. Expensive but for long run cheap — it is simple , you get quality what you pay for .….. Years back I on $ 400 sligtly modified Raleigh Tarantula MTB , ( now overhauled and equipt with top of the line comnponents still in use for trails in Rockies ) I did made trip from La Paz to Chile . Want to safe some money . It teach me ! Never ever I will make this kind of mistake again .…

Another bike similar to ones already mentioned is the Rocky Mtn Sherpa. I’ve been riding a 2012 model for 8 months and am pretty happy with it. Pros- 36 spoked wheels, 27 gears in a wide range, stiff frame. Cons- the braze on placement on the seat tube (the front derailler is attached between them), I’d like bigger chainrings up front, It doesn’t do well off-pavement.

Cheers, David. I wonder why Rocky Mountain haven’t fitted a rack to this bike — I know people can be picky about racks, but I do think touring bikes at this level should be ready to tour off-the-peg as well. Nevertheless, it certainly looks like a good option. Thanks for the addition!

I was looking at Jamis Aurora Elite 2013 (cannot find the 2012 anymore). However some reviews describe it as a “light tourer”. I understand the problem of the 10-speed cassette. But what would make it a *light* tourer.

A ‘light’ tourer would usually mean a bike that’ll carry some luggage on a relatively short paved-road tour, but probably suffer off-road and with lots of luggage in the long-term.

I have just purchased an audax cycle from my local cycle store (Surosa cycles in Oldham, Greater Manchester, UK) as they build their own frames.. and had it custom built with my chosen spec for a total of £1266 and it’s a very good bike with mudguards, and a heavy duty rear rack with rack bag and 56L panniers.. soon to have an addition of handlebar bag, and front rack and panniers and I’d feel happy to do some touring on that over any distance

That sounds like a good price for a custom frame and build. I’d be interested to know the spec?

People will choose their bikes according to all the factors mentioned by you, Tom, and by other contributors. For some, keeping costs low is paramount and for others, strength and reliability are the main considerations. I think there are also intangible factors such as each individual’s self image as a cyclist and the emotional resonance of one bike or another. I’m far from wealthy but I appreciate the inherent value of high quality engineering and get enormous satisfaction from assembling my own bikes. After much research and deliberation I bought a high quality European frame and a mix of German, Japanese, American and British components. The complete set wasn’t cheap but I did make a considerable saving compared with buying a similar bike off the shelf. I also bought a wheel truing stand and gauges, and built my own wheels. I wouldn’t claim to be an expert bicycle mechanic but the experience of assembling my own bikes has provided not only personal satisfaction but also great confidence for dealing with routine maintenance and potential problems while far from home. I don’t believe there is any one ‘best touring bike’ and I’m skeptical about such claims. The message I take from this section of your blog, not to mention many other bicycle related blogs and websites, is that bicycle touring is a growing phenomenon and that it is rich with variety, in both equipment and people. That is surely a good thing.

You are absolutely right; there is no one-size-fits-all solution. I can completely appreciate the process of building a bike up from carefully-chosen top-end parts (as I did myself in 2007), just as I can appreciate the idea of rescuing an old bike from a scrapheap and bringing it back to life (as I’m doing right now)!

Thanks for the very thoughtful comment!

Just about to buy the Ridgeback Journey for some UK touring — perhaps France too next year. I’ve been seduced by the Alfine gearing. Am I being wise?

In 2009 my Roberts Roughstuff (with Rohloff hub) was stolen in Bulgaria with only 2000 miles on the clock. So that I could continue my RTW trip, I bought a Drag ZX5 mountainbike in Sofia, with replacement Schwalbe Marathon tyres, butterfly bars and comfy saddle, plus front and rear racks, stand, fenders and the two components of my wireless computer that had disappeared with the Roberts. The first bike cost just short of £3000, the second (Sofi) cost £500 and has now completed around 18000 miles. I’ve asked myself many times, ‘why did I bother spending all that money in the first place?’ The BMC paid out £250 in insurance btw.

Hi Anne i followed your adventures on crazy guy, was epic. Were the gears on Sofi deore or lesser Regards Pete.

I have almost completed a round the world bike ride on a Koga Signature with a Rolhoff gear system. During my four years on the road i have changed tyres, chain, brake pads and the bike was serviced in Australia and Los Angeles. I am still running with the original rims, no broken spokes and the Rolhoff is bomb proof. The Koga in my humble opinion is by far the best bike on the market. Ive been on wonderful smooth highways, Australia, USA and dirt roads that you wouldnt take a Land Rover on in Patagonia and Bolivia but the bike has just kept going, ive done over 30.000 miles on with not one problem, it still has the original bottom bracket. If you want to ride around the world buy any bike if you want to return home problem free then buy a Koga Signature.

Hi Robert, I was offered a World Traveller today for €1200 (2013 with 500kms) although I’ll probable go for the Kona Sutra as I perceive it to have a broader and more efficient range of use and I have no plans for outside Europe. How did you find your bike on load touring, daily tasks?

Sorry mate, we are going to drop the http://www.8pedsls.com site. To expensive to keep up for the entire 4 years. 

http://Www.facebook.com/8pedals http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1&doc_id=11458&v=3Z

So we are now on fb. And crazy guy on a bike. 

I would put my vote for the BB7s. A mechanical system may require more pull on the lever than a hydraulic system it doesn’t have all the potential service issues. The BB7 are durable and been around for a while. The nice thing about the BB7 vs the BB5 is that both pistons are adjustable on the bb7 making the setup and adjustment easier. Also the 7 brake pads are bigger than on the 5 which would make you think it stops better. I can’t comment on the ease of finding pads since they are not on my tour bike but since the bb7 uses a Juicy style pad it may be more common. For me I always carry spare pads regardless of where I am. The sintered metallic pads will give you longer pad life…just make sure that your rotor is rated for a metal pad. 

The other nice pluses for disc setup is no wear on the rim from brake pads, better stopping power in bad weather/muddy conditions and if you break a spoke or come out of true your brakes are still fully functional. The downside however is more strain on the hub shell and if you bend a rotor it can be next to impossible to get it perfectly straight…and there is the advantage of having both pistons adjustable on the bb7.

Hi Tom, I’ve read about Thorn bikes before (specifically the Raven) — any views?

Also, I would be interested to know why drop bars are so popular. I find a more upright cycling position more comfortable so would probably choose bullhorn or butterfly bars, but hardly any bikes seem to have these. 

What’s your view on disc brakes? I notice that the Kona Sutra has them — does it not cause an issue when you run into maintenance problems, especially outside Europe? (I would apply the same logic to hub gears).

I ride a Raleigh Royal, which is fine as a sturdy budget option (£500).

Thanks for article, really really useful!

The reason I haven’t included Thorn is that most of their models are above the price range I was aiming for here. I’ve never ridden one, but I have been told by several people that they’re great bikes, and that the people who make them are quite obnoxious.

I’ve found drops to be comnfortable, but I never use the dropped part except for shifting. I would imagine that’s fairly normal. Instead I make use of the various hand positions available on the upper part of the bars, which is at a height comparable to other types of handlebar once you’ve raised it with spacers and an angled stem, such as on the Kona Sutra. You get a very comfortable and fairly upright position out of that arrangement.

Before, I used an adjustable stem and riser mountain-bike bars. Now when I sit on that bike I feel like I’m on a Harley Davidson with pedals!

Disc brakes — well, models like the Avid BB7 have been around now for long enough to prove their reliability in the long term. They use the same cables and levers as V‑brakes, the mechanism is simple, and they’re maintenance free, except for changing the pads, which you can carry with you. They last longer and are lighter than V‑brake blocks. They’re also becoming easier to find spares for outside Europe. If your fork has V‑brake bosses, you’ve got that option in case of a really unlucky breakdown or accident. So I think the risk is now a very manageable one.

Thanks for the budget bike suggestion — I’ll work that into a future article.

All the best!

Hi Tom, and everyone! I’m one of those lucky enough to be able to afford several bikes, so I can make some comparisons based on experience. If you live in the U.K. it is definitely worth looking at the Thorn bikes as they are just so well built and I can vouch for the ride being ultra comfy and smooth for long days in the saddle. If you look at their prices they seem to be expensive at first but on their website they often have amazing deals on bikes they already have built up. They are absolutely worth it and are designed by someone who really knows how to get touring DNA and experience into a bicycle. The Surly Troll is another great choice with even more versatility in the drivetrain area but rides more like an MTB ( which it is ) than the Thorns. A word of advice for those who are wondering how to carry stuff. get a Burley travoy, the trailer that packs up into a shopping bag. It is a game changer and can carry a lot.You can get the load off your bike with it and still have a rack and space for other gear on your bike frame. Sometimes you can park it and ride your bike ‘naked’ without being bogged down with gear. It is the single most amazing piece of touring gear I have.

Ooops! Forgot to mention about disc brakes. I’ve got both systems. I find that disc rotors need to be perfectly flat for good performance and once they get bent even slightly on a tour they don’t function as well and are a pain to straighten out. They also can squeal a lot. For the first reason I found V brakes better for serious touring. Even though the disc fashion is popular now, i wouldn’t go that way for touring and seriously, a good pair of V brakes will stop you just as well. Concerning hub gears. My Rohloff and Alfine units have given me ZERO problems and i mean zero plus they are weatherproof. Derailleurs are not . If you have good mechanical skills you(ll be happy with them but if not definitely go IGH if you can afford it.

A tip for straightening out a bent rotor is to use an adjustable spanner to grip the rotor at the warped point and then give it a few nudges back in the right direction. With a bit of care this’ll cure all but the most traumatic bends.

Thanks for the comment! I have heard lots of good stuff about Thorn, and I’m sure they deserve their reputation. I’d put them in the “top-end” category on price point, which is why they’re not included here. One day it’d be nice to try one out… (hint!)

Re drop bars: I wouldn’t want to tour without them, and I use them a lot, but especially when I have to ride into the wind. On any tour, there will be long hours, and sometimes days, when the wind is blowing head-on, and I’d go nuts if I had to be sitting straight up, catching the full force of the wind, the whole time. However, it’s important to note that not all drop bars are the same. Some bars are marketed as “randonneur” bars, and they allow for a wide range of positions, which is really important as you can change positions frequently and relieve tension on your hands, wrists, neck and shoulders. On my current bike, a Surly Long Haul Trucker, the stock (drop) bars are very good. I probably spend the most time with my hands on the top section of the bars, but it’s a blessing to be able to get right down into a crouch when I have to ride into the wind.

The Paul Hewitt Cheviot is a very good bike too.

Tom I think the comment that the 5 models you showcased are basically the same bike is spot on. Yes there are bikes with better components but the few that you chose will do the job. Its easy to build a $5000 tour bike and I have seen several. However at the end of the day I would prefer to have a tough as nails work horse that doesn’t mind another scratch or two. 

I laugh as I think that my wife’s tour bike frame, a steel Rocky Mountain Soul, was perfectly fine and yet was about to be thrown into a dumpster when I saved it. Put a fork on it for 75 cents from the reuse it center and then built the rest from bits and hand me downs of solid mid range mtb components. For a few hundred dollars I built a bike that has easily survived several hard tours. It took a little time and patience but in the process I learned how to fix just about everything on the bike. Not to mention the satisfaction of giving it a new life. Now I would never consider buying a new bike from a shop. There are just so many great used bikes that would make a perfect tour bike project. With the internet as a resource you can research just about every part there is. It however takes time.

One more little story. On our trip to India, one of our group bought a $100 bike off craigslist in Vancouver. We checked it over and and made sure everything was sound and then shipped it over. She rode it for a month on tour and then donated it to an orphanage. Think they were happy? It was a pretty special moment. Would I have ridden it around the world…maybe not but it served the purpose and then some. Sometimes its just not about the bike.

Hey Henric — thanks a lot for this perspective. 

I agree that renovating an old bike is just as valid as buying a new one. (In fact, that’s a project I’ve got on the go at the moment.) I do also think, though, that there’s room for everyone to have their own way of approaching the situation — a new bike might be what takes someone from a dreamer to a die-hard cycle tourer — and for another person, the love that goes into a rebuild of a completely unique vintage bike may achieve the same thing.

Thanks for your input!

I pulled an old green Chicago Schwinn Varsity off the trash when I was in High School, fixed it up and rode it for a long time. Last year I put new wheels and tires on it, and then had to replace the rear derailleur. This year I’ve put saddlebaskets on it and use it to go to work everyday, and am planning to take it on a short 200 mile tour this summer. The only gripe I have with it is that the original gearset doesn’t have quite a low enough first gear for the hills in Albuquerque, but when I get back to Chicago next week it should be just fine again. Absolutely reliable bike (though it’s really heavy at 45lbs without the baskets, close to 55 or 60lbs with the baskets)

Fantastic. That’s the spirit.

I love my Surly Troll.

A real work horse and rides suprising well both loaded and unloaded. I personally think it’s better than the LHT because it’s a great alrounder.

It does look good. Rear triangle & caliper positioning like the Sutra. Very flexible-looking setup!

I’m lucky enough to own a pair of touring bikes, a Thorn Sterling ( discontinued I think ) and a Troll, both built to my spec, with Shimano XTR v brakes ( I don’t like discs, squeaky, rotors too easily bent ‚hard to replace on a tour, and extra weight ), They are both fantastic bikes but with a different ride quality. The Surly is a bit more agile, rides more like a trail bike, but for putting on the miles when you are going to be riding seven or eight hours a day, the Thorn just cruises through it sffortlessly. It’s also one solid bike. Don’t believe i’ve ridden any another frame that is as comfortable as the Thorn for long days in the saddle. For those shopping for a tourer, I’d give careful thought to whether you’ll be on or off road. Both of my bikes can handle either but they both excel at only one.

For several years I have gone on a European cycle tour with my tent and cycled for a period of no more than six weeks. I have had a couple of good touring bikes which I upgraded the wheels to Mavic 719 and the gears to Shimano XT As I got older now 62yrs of age I decided to invest in a Thorn Mercury straight handlebars and a Rolhoff Hub including Disc Brakes the result is perfect my saddle is a Brooks B 17 the bike is a dream to ride 853 Reynolds Steel Stiff and flexible to enjoy many miles in the saddle As for the Rolhoff I could Never Tour with a derailleur gears again the Rolhoff is all they say it is German engineering at its best the people at Thorn did a first class job their manner appears firm but they certainly know their business and I am really pleased with my byclcle Thorns lowered the gearing to its maximum and I can climb most hills fully loaded if it’s touring on Tarmac with the occasional canal towpath I recommend the Mercury byclcle and with Swarbe marathon plus tyres your bike is bomb proof I am always amazed when cyclists talk about weight on a byclcle yes if you are racing but when you Tour a couple of kilos really makes no difference my only regret is I didn’t purchase a Rolhoff years ago not cheap but it will last you a lifetime and should you upgrade your bike you can transfer it to your next byclcle making the former into a single speed for training purposes as for disc brakes when I am fully loaded coming down a steep mountain side I know I can safer stop otherwise it’s possibly very hot wheel rims and possibly wheel failure it just depends on what kind of cycle touring you wish to do if it is traveling in south east Asia 26* wheels and no disc brakes but after cycling for over 50 years I believe I have finally found what works for me

Hey Tom. Just found your site. Thought we would say hi. We are in the midst of organising a lap around the world in 2014. For 3 years. Great site look forward to investigating it further. We r using 1 Surly lhdt, 1 world Randonneur $ 2 giant boulder bikes. Check it out under bike specs on out 8pedals site. Early days for us. 

Thanks! (Everyone else, check out 8pedals.com !)

Walmart sells nice bikes (really). I ride combined packed dirt (nation forest) roads and paved. I use a dual suspension 21sp MTB upgraded with wide seat and swept back handlebars, better tires. Racks and other acc. as needed. for $250USD you can replace it every 2 years, transfer the custom parts to the new bike and still sell the old one for $35. Thieves know its a cheap bike and don’t bother it, joyriders main threat. My current bike was a $89 model, but I installed wide range gearing in addition to the other modifications. Going on 4 years 8500 miles, frame still good.

re your comment “They’re all built primarily for paved roads, but could handle a dirt track or two if need be.“ I bought a Surly Long Haul Trucker for a tour that included hundreds of kilometres of gravel road, and it was fabulous. A key factor was to use fairly beefy tires (1.75”). The setup on the Surly allowed getting down on the drop bars for long stretches against the wind, but enough cushioning in the tires (and frame) to make rough sections comfortable. I suspect this would be true of most of the bikes you mentioned, as long as they have room for wide tires. There have been a few loose dirt trails where a mountain bike would offer better control, but the Surly has been an ideal compromise for most of my rides.

After perhaps 25,000 km of touring we lashed out and bought Thorn Nomad each, with Rohloff. These are a little heavy, but the most comfortable and durable bikes imaginable…the Rolls Royce of touring. We can’t speak too highly of the Rohloff hubs.…just fantastic. But then, we travel slowly and thoughtfully.….you might say “savoring the experience”.…too old to do it anyother way! Check out Thorn’s website.

i would agree with the above. The Nomad is like a two wheeled tank, bit heavy, but can carry loads and tackle almost everything thrown at it. Slowly and thoughtfully ? ……… i couldn’t have put it better.

Hey, Tom! Since I have come back from my first bike tour to Europe I decided to buy Kona Sutra but question about what sixe should I choose is too complicated for me. I am 6 ft 2 inch. Thank you.

Hi Alex. The best thing to do by far is to test ride the different sizes. But if that isn’t an option, my brother is 6′2″ and he has the 59cm model, which fits him very well, if that’s of any help.

i have no money what small improvements could i make to my cannondale quick cx 4 2012 to make it a little better for touring

I would start by going on a tour with it and seeing if you run into any issues — depending on what you’re doing, it might be fine as-is!

Was all set to go for the Kona Sutra 2012 after much research and your review for a 1000km trip in SE Asia followed by a coast to coast of Oz, but just seen the Dawes Super Galaxy for £1125 at Spa Cycles. Almost the same price as the Kona. Would be interested on your thoughts on the Super Galaxy. I don’t plan on carrying much weight if that helps.

I’ve never ridden the Super Galaxy, so all I can say is going on the specs on the website. They look very similar, although the Super Galaxy has marginally better drivetrain components and better tyres. On the other hand, the Sutra has powerful disc brakes, bar-end shifters and a stronger/more widespread 9‑speed drivetrain, rather than the Dawes’ 10-speed which I consider a downgrade rather than an upgrade.

I’d toss a coin, or take them both for a ride and go with your gut!

Quick update — several stores are doing the 2012 Sutra at a discount now, including the two links in the article above…

Hey Tom, I went with the Kona Surtra based on my gut feeling and it felt right when I test rode it. Thanks for the link to cyclestore and your advice. I did a 3000 miles plus tour of SE Asia quickly followed by JOGLE on a mountain bike which was blast, but very much looking forward to journeying on a proper touring bike. Should make things less laborious hopefully. 

Top website!

Have to say I was a bit surprised at your mention of ‘stupidly expensive’ bikes then trying to claim that £1500 is a mid-range price. Anyway I have a Dawes Ultra Galaxy Ti and love it!!!

£1500 is a mid-range price 😉

My wife and I have had our Ridgeback Panorama’s for a couple of years now and are really pleased with them. We would, however, agree with Mark’s comment about the brake pads/blocks. Fortunately, easily rectified with a better brake block compound. We find that, when fully loaded, the bike comes into its own with regards to comfort, response and stability due, I think, to the Reynolds 725 tubing.

I bought a Panorama for touring in the Alps. Testing around Rutland hills I realised the brakes weren’t even good enough for here, let alone 25mile descents. I swapped them for Tekto mini “V” brakes available from Spa Cycles for £25. More than enough braking power now, it made a huge difference.

Hi Tom, I followed your adventure to the Arctic. Good to see you passing on your knowledge. Both my DH and I have Koga Randonneurs and I love mine. He preferred his Dawes Super Galaxy that he had upgraded with the Koga multiposition bars unfortunately , it was stolen and never recovered. They come complete with dynamo for lighting and I have a gizmo to charge the I phone. Good to find your site again. Brenda

Thanks for the article. A bit disappointing recumbents are not mentioned, as these are hands down the best bicycles for long distances. The first question should always be: Do I have a reason for not choosing a recumbent?

I can think of several — price, availability and familiarity are the first three. 

I do appreciate all the arguments for the benefit of recumbents, but this article was intended to highlight mainstream mid-range options, and unfortunately recumbents are still a long way from being part of that. I’d love to run an article about them, but not until I have some first-hand experience…

Great article Tom, I suspect most of us spend too much money on our bikes. Its refreshing to see someone write about the mid-rangers. Rather than the “you need this bike with Rohloff, Son, Magura, tubus” that you read on most sites..

Too true. I’ve got an interesting article in the pipeline which will go even further in the ‘budget’ direction. Watch this space…

I’ve just completed a tour on my new Vivente World Randonneur 

It’s probably at the upper end of the middle for touring bikes, if that makes any sense. But for me doing heavy highway touring it is ideal. Strong, stable. The dynamo on the front wheel is excellent at charging up all my electronics.

As you said, a bit pricey, but a lovely looking bike — thanks!

Is it possible to put a dynamo for charging up a GPS and iPhone on the front wheel of a Surly LHT? Does it reduce speed much?

Go for it. I have done it and could not be happier. The reduction in speed is minimal.

+1 for the Ridgeback. Like you say, everything is a compromise and in the Panorama’s case the manufacturer has skimped on the brake pads the most. Happily this is easily fixed. Another slight annoyance was caused by the shifters, which needed the addition of brake noodles to route the gear cables away from the handlebar bag I added — couldn’t quite justify 105 levers with integral cable routing for a tourer. Top bike, highly recommend it!

Novara safari is a great and inexpensive tourer sold at Rei Cheaper then any of these by a large margin with butterfly handle bars Novara randonee is more in line with what is here Khs tr 101 very complete even includes clipless pedals.

Thanks for this, Andrew. I had a look at the specs of these bikes. As you say, the Novara Randonnée is a closer fit for this list of mid-range tourers, though I would still be concerned about the rear rack’s strength and the 10-speed drivetrain. It’s also missing fenders. Otherwise it looks like a good bike at a good price. 

I’d probably put the Safari in the ‘budget’ category rather than the mid-range, due to it having a lot of entry-level components. While that’s fine for short tours and commuting, I’d be concerned about its long-term durability on a big tour, where the aim is to reduce the likelihood of repairs and replacements.

The KHS TR 101 looks like a very capable road tourer — I’d like to see some real life reviews.

Thanks again!

Also love your site and check my rss reader for your posts daily such a inspiration keep on riding man :).

I’ve done short tours on my Randonee for years, and love it. Hildy (my Randonee) climbs hills like a madwoman and can haul as much cargo as need be quite handily. The bike will even handle mild off-road. I’ve long since worn through the stock tires, and replaced them with Schwalbe Marathon tires. 

I’ve replaced the rear rack, but I’m told by many that the tock rear rack is quite sturdy. (I already owned a pair of Tubus racks from my previous bike when I bought the Randonee.) This fellow rode from Florida to Washington State on a Randonee, and used the stock rear rack. 

I have an older Randonee that has a 24-speed drivetrain, and I have to say that I share your concern about the newer, 30-speed drivetrain. It seems odd that they would put a 10-speed cassette on a touring bike. However, I am pleased to note that they have gotten rid of the old STI shifters and moved to the more dependable bar-end shifters. If I had the spare cash, I’d have those installed on Hildy. 

The Safari looks like a fun bike for short tours that contain off-road components, but I’d worry about those disc brakes on tour.

I put a huge vote in for the Surly. I can say I’ve treated mine like a mountain bike on previous tours and it’s never been a problem. Its just built to take any punishment I fell like dishing out.

I have had negative experiences with an older Kona Sutra; however, it was with the former placement of the bb7 brake caliper and subsequent rear rack configuration with a huge bolt and spacers. It’d just sort of snap whenever we were running late, battling poor weather, or having trouble finding camp. Now that they’ve moved the brake to the lower chain stay, that problem is gone and the rack is likely as bombproof as the frame.

Yeah, that’s probably what prevented it from being taken seriously for so long — I’ve read some similar comments about older models. I probably wouldn’t have included it here a few years ago, but I can attest to its vast improvement in the last couple of years. Had an interesting chat with Kona’s designers in Vancouver earlier this year — they decided to redesign it from the ground up, rather than try to beef up a road-bike design as they’d previously done.

I had a 2007 or 2008 Sutra and one of the rear rack eyelets broke off during the first week of my very first tour. I finished the ride with the rack held up with bunch of zip ties. I was very disappointed with that frame.

A good bargain i.m.o. would be the vsf Fahrradmanufaktur TX-800 XT with 30 gears. handmade in Germany, complete Shimano XT-Group, Tubus Cargo and Tara lowrider racks (made out of Steel tubing, Magura hdraulic rimbrakes, a XT hub dynamo and a pretty good, rigid wheelset including some Schwalbe Marathon 47–622 reflex tires. There are Shops in GB too, in € it would be 1499,-. Of course, a sturdy steelframe and-fork.

Or, my ride of choice, the Surly Troll (mine is a custom-setup by myself, but the complete bike gets some good reputation too), more like a Offroad-Utility-Bike. (can be driven with V‑Brakes, Disc-Brakes, a Rohloff Hub, a normal rear derailleur or even singlespeed). http://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll The parts on the complete one wasn´t what i had in mind so i bought the frame and fork for 380 €

Thanks for the comment and suggestions!

The Fahrradmanufaktur looks like good value for money, as you say. I wouldn’t take a 10-speed chainset far beyond Europe, though — very new tech and with every increment comes a narrower, weaker chain, with spares almost impossible to find outside high-end bike stores. My first expedition bike was built with a 8‑speed rear mech for exactly that reason. Even a 7‑speed would still be stronger and easier to find parts for in most of the world.

The Troll reminds me of the Explosif I built from the frame up for off-road touring. Looks absolutely great if you want to build your own and ride a lot of dirt! Shame only a few stores import them over here in the UK.

Tom, and All Others, 

Can I ask for your opinion on the new Fahrradmanufaktur bikes? I was about to purchase one, but I’m a bit unsure for two reasons: 1) It has hydraulic brakes. Do you think that would require more (complicated) maintenance? 2) It’s a women’s frame. I haven’t seen many female frames among long distance touring bikes. Is there a good reason for that?

This is the original TX-400: http://www.fahrradmanufaktur.de/katalog/expedition?product_id=668

And this is the one I’m eyeing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371133699189?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thank you, I would really appreciate your input on this.

Sofia, I’m a woman travelling around the world with the TX-800. The Magura hydraulic brakes don’t need any maintenance, just changing brake pads when needed (very easy, with a click). I have the male frame as I always had male frames in all my bikes and it’s what I’m used to. Another Spanish girl is also travelling around the world with the TX-400, male frame, and also happy with it. The advice the experts give is always the same, try to test both of them, male and female frame, and see how they feel.… Good luck!

Hi I bought the TX-400 last year and took it on 10 tour of Oman. It’s a really great bike! Very sturdy, and of course heavy but very easy to handle. My ony complaint was the company’s website. Everything is in German and they are very difficult to communicate with. Tried registering the bike using the website but couldn’t as it was in German. So a called them and emailed them a couple of times… again with no response. So my worry is that if on a longer trip I need to get spares, how could will their service be?

I guess it was many us who thought the same, as vsf fahrradmanufaktur have translated their webpage into English and Dutch… 

Regarding contact, our experience was totally different. We had a lot of doubts before buying the bikes, and although they kept telling us to contact the retailer, they replied most of them, even sending the bike documentacion translated into English, a list of spares,… Communication has always been in English.

As for their service, I had to use it twice in this trip, nothing serious, and it was very easy. I guess it helped that I was cycling through Germany at that time. They arranged for a shop in Leipzig to tight my cassette that had become lose, and they sent new pedals to another shop in Dresden as I wasn’t happy with the spinning of the ones that came with the bike. So far… so good. Hopefully I don’t need to contact them anymore!! 🙂

I’ve also got a TX800, it’s hugely strong and very well built, and will happily go anywhere a mountain bike will go, even when fully laden. It’s not the fastest bike but very reliable and robust. So far have only ridden the highlands of Scotland (including off-road touring) and a quick trip to Ypres plus 800 miles of commuting but the Zanskar valley beckons… 

To sum up this bike, think flat handlebars and fat tyres. Surly LHT, Dawes Galaxy, Koga typically have drop handlebars / skinny tyres, and will get you there quicker. The TX800 has a very upright position and quick (light) steering, ideal for circumnavigating rocky trails (like a Landover) but if you are the slow lad/lass at the back wanting to keep up then buy something skinnier.

This is a proper trekking bike, suited to carrying heavy loads away from tarmac. (And very reliable commuting, but not too quickly…)

Oh, and it comes in bright black and day-glo brown. It’s a German thing…

Believe it or not, an excelent touring bike is an old style Shwinn Varsity, 1982. With its steel frame, steel wheels, Suntour components, top-pull Diacompe breaks, narrow width drop handlebars, this bike is suprisenly stable and so well balanced you can ride no handed for as long as you like. Mine was a 25 inch frame, 27 inch tires. Tough long lasting and and inexpensive, I paid $175 used. My current touring bikes include crom-moly and aluminum, yet this steel Shwinn is probably my overall favourite

I have toured mainly in Europe always on Tarmac or the odd canal route my byclcle has been a Edinburgh Counrty traveler two years ago I opted for a Genesis day one steel frame bike with a Alfine hub I have since changed the handle bars to straights with bar ends this stopped the pain I developed between my shoulder blades after cycling 90 miles or more I also went to Thorns who fitted a Rolhoff 14 gear internal hub yes it was expensive however I must confess I would Never want to tour on a derailleur system again I appreciate the derailleur system can be easily repaired however the Rolhoff Hub has 14 distinct gears and it certainly does the job beautifully many of my friends who also tour and have cycled on both sets of gears now would not go back to a derailleur system my advice is you can cycle or your on just about any toe of byclcle Tom Allen has proved that but in life you get what you pay for I would personally recommend a steel fram touring bike good set of wheels Swarbe Marthon Plus tyres Bomb proof and a once in a lifetime investment purchase a Rolhoff the world then is your oyster and should you decide to later go for an expedition byclcle you can take your Rolhoff with you and transfer it to your new bike as it gets better with age

Hello we are currently cycling from Barcelona to Australia and using vsf tx400 fahrrad manufakture.the bike is great the only weak point do far are the tyres for us. We have it comes with schwalbe marathon mondiale which for us are not strong enough as we had to repair so many puncture. We think is a great bike and awesome value for money but just consider the tyres. ?

I bought my VSF 1,5 years ago from a dealer in NL, he says when buying from factory a lot of small adjustments needed to be done by him as the derailleur and that jizz wasnt properly adjusted, same i can imagine with the rear cog. I love how it is specd! Love the front dynamo light as it is bright as hell and the rear light stays on after stopping for a minute or two which is great regarding saftely. The frame (60cm for me) is not to stiff but very comfortable during my 10.000 K trip last year.. Also definitely a rear kickstand is a must, I have always had a centre stand but Rear kickstand has been amazing. I added an Andra Ryde rear rim that has proven to be bomb proof under load. I love the bike. But keep in mind that if you get rimbrakes or discbrakes it is impossiple to change after purchase as the frame is not compatible for both simultaniously.

I bought a Dawes Super Galaxy 2001 second hand in a fairly sorry state. I guess it was 30 years old then. I have ridden through Brittany on it 3 times and use it every day. I’m on my third set of wheels and it has had 2 complete drive train changes. I have been thinking about getting a new bike for 5 years but them I spend $100 on new bits and keep it going. Anyway, it was built to last. Don’t know if the new build quality is as good?

That’s the mark of a good frame!

I’ve picked up a 2013 Kona Sutra from bikes.com.au for $1200. The Dawes is now chained to the shed like the old dog out of Babe (sheep pig). I am loving the Sutra. I use it every day commuting and it is very comfortable. The saddle was hopeless but my old saddle suits the bike well. Anyway, thanks for the advice, think I got a bargain.

Sounds like an extremely good deal. You’re right about the saddle, but I can’t remember buying a single bike for which I didn’t replace it!

Hi Tom I have purchased a Genesis Day One with an Alfine 11 speed Hub To climb the Steeper hills I have changed from a 42 tooth to 38 front ring and an 18tooth on the rear Would this bike be suitable for European Touring can you advise please

Practically any bike is suitable for European touring, as long as it’s comfortable enough to ride all day. You’re never more than a few miles from a bike shop or train station if something goes wrong. I know people who’ve toured Europe on bikes from scrapheaps.

That is not budget.

…or VSF Fahrradmanufaktur TX-400 — either with Rohloff or not. https://www.fahrradmanufaktur.de/de/katalog/expedition-2017/tx-400-rohloff-speedhub-14-gang

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The Koga (Signature) WorldTraveller Bicycle: Reviewed

A few weeks ago a woman contacted me on social media and pointed out that her husband was holding back on buying a new bike until I published a review of the Koga WorldTraveller bicycle that I purchased back in the early summer of 2019. I have to admit that I have promised a review on several occasions but never actually got around to writing one. Well, finally, here it is. Much to the relief of the husband concerned… Let’s start with a video that will put the whole buying-a-new-touring-bike thing into perspective:

OK. I’ve now promised, so I’d better deliver. Here is the review…

As noted above, I’ve now been riding the Koga WorldTraveller called Wanda for just over two years. The initial motivation for investing a sizeable chunk of cash in the new bike (and it was sizeable – you’ll have to visit the Koga website to work out how much I shelled out…) was a planned trip to Japan in the summer of 2020. Well, that clearly never took place in 2020 and won’t take place in 2021 either. 2022? Perhaps… But that doesn’t mean the bike has been resting idle. Far from it. The first expedition with the Koga was along the EuroVelo 12 here in Yorkshire , followed by a trip around the Isle of Wight , a cycle from Santander, Spain to the end of the Douro Valley in Portugal , a four-capital tour of the United Kingdom in the coronavirus summer of 2020 and a jaunt around the Yorkshire Dales in early autumn of last year. Indeed if you’d like to see Wanda in action, that trip to the Dales might be a good place to start. Here’s a film I made about the three-day cycle:

There are more films of Wanda in action on the CyclingEurope.org YouTube channel .

Although you can purchase Koga ‘Signature’ bikes direct from Koga themselves, I would recommend going via a dealer as they will be able to advise you on what choices to make. And when it comes to Koga dealers in the UK, David Stainforth of CycleSense in Tadcaster is difficult to beat.

I’ll make some more general comments about the bike at the end of the review but I thought I’d use the following image from the initial video above to organise my comments:

Some areas merit more comment than others, as you will see, and some comments will no doubt see me veering off on a tangent that is not particularly specific to the Koga WorldTraveller bike itself. I will also give each component area of the bike a score out of ten. On with the show!

Aluminium Alloy (6061) Frame

One of the first things that people notice when they see the Koga WorldTraveller is just how robust the frame looks. And it is. In fact, over the past two years, many people have assumed that it is hiding a battery and that I must be riding an eBike. This is obviously not the case (although you can buy a Koga WorldTraveller eBike – more details here ) but, combined with the ‘look’ of the Rohloff hub (see below), it is an understandable mistake to make. This can be a little frustrating if I am passed by someone on a hill as they bask in their smugness at not only cycling more quickly than me, but cycling more quickly than someone on an eBike… Little do they know that they should only be smug on one of those counts. The frame’s chunkyness (if such a word exists) gives it strength. I think… Combined with the wide tires, it’s a very comfortable thing to ride. Lots of bounce, although I do suspect this has more to do with said tires. A point of vanity, as you may have noticed in the initial video above, is that I have my website, CyclingEurope.org, embossed on the upper bar. I’m not a fan of tattoos but in this case I’ll make an exception. The weldings are beautiful and merit comment and because the bike that I have comes with a belt rather than chain, the frame contains a little removable piece that allows for replacement of the belt when needed. Very neat!

Score: 9/10 (If it didn’t look like an eBike, it would score 10)

Brooks B17 Saddle

They are a Marmite topic of debate. I love them and they look so good. I don’t think people appreciate that in order to stop things rubbing (i.e. your back side), you need to reduce friction. Spongey saddles may keep you bouncing along but what you need is a bit of slide. A well-maintained Brooks saddle gives you plenty of slide and minimal friction. Don’t forget, however, that the wax they supply should be applied on the underside of the saddle with just a little on the top. Common mistake to make.

Score: 10/10 (Can’t be bettered)

Tubus Pannier Racks

Well made and, so far, have had no issues with the racks. They have plenty of places upon which to place your panniers, irrespective of which make of pannier you are using. The rear pannier has two upper bars so you can opt for either a higher or lower position for your pannier. As far as I’m aware, these are about as good as it gets with pannier racks. They have become a little discoloured after only two years but is that a big issue? I think not.

Score: 9/10 (I’ll knock off a point for the discolouring)

Ryde Andrea 28″ Wheels

I don’t really have much to say about the wheels aside from not having had any issues with them in the past two years. They look as good as they did upon delivery and, with a multitude of spokes, they are as strong as you can get I imagine. Having had issues with spokes before, I hope I’m not tempting fate by handing the wheels a maximum score. Fingers are crossed.

Score: 10/10

Rohloff 14-Speed Hub

Well if you ignore the vast expense, what’s not to like? I first saw a Rohloff hub up close and personal a few years ago at the Bike Show in Birmingham. The display model had been sliced in two and you could see all the internal workings. It blew my mind. I have no idea how you can possibly put everything that normally requires a chainset, cogs, derailleur etc… into such a small space. ( This chap does! ) But that’s why I’m a French teacher and not an engineer… It has worked perfectly for two years. Well, I say ‘perfectly’… It very occasionally misses a gear but a twist of the shifter gets things sorted within seconds. There is no maintenance required by me although when the bike went in for its annual service last year, I seem to remember that the oil was changed. The sound of the workings is sublime and the ability to grind to a halt and change gear whilst stationary (at traffic lights for example) is cool. It’s the the bit of the Koga that puts it in the same league as an Aston Marin. If James Bond were ever to ride a bike, he’d have one fitted with a Rohloff hub. No doubt whatsoever about that. I thought I might have had an issue with the hub last summer when I noticed that there was sometimes a pool of oil on the ground after the bike had been stood up overnight (apologies to the folk at the YHA hostel in London…). I wrongly assumed this was a leak from the Rohloff. Turned out it was water draining through the cable housing that is next to the hub. How could I have ever doubted it? ‘Reassuringly expensive’ is a term invented not just for Stella Artois but also for the Rohloff 14-Speed Hub.

Score: 10/10 (I’d happily score it higher)

Gates Carbon Belt

When I was talking to David Stainforth prior to buying the Koga, the carbon belt was something that got discussed at length. If truth were to be told, however, I think I was secretly hoping he would persuade me to include the carbon belt on the specification when we finally placed the order. As with the Rohloff hub, it wasn’t cheap but I think I got to the point where I thought ‘what the hell!’. When will I next buy such an expensive bike? Perhaps never. In for a penny, in for many pounds… The lack of required maintenance is, for someone who isn’t very interested in fiddling with the bike, a big plus. No oil is required. In fact, it’s prohibited! When I took the bike to Spain in 2019, I did experience some squeaking of the belt and I found that throwing some water on it sorted the problem, for a period at least. Since returning from Spain, I’ve lubricated the belt with silicon lubricant. A quick spray every few weeks and the squeaking isn’t an issue. Yes, it’s true that if the belt does break and you happen to be in the middle of nowhere, you are in trouble. If I ever were planning to go to the middle of nowhere I would probably carry a replacement belt. That said, Gates designed these belts for motorbikes originally. How often do they actually break without outside intervention of a sharp object? I hope never to find out.

Score: 9/10 (The squeaking was annoying)

Shimano PD-T8000 Pedals

Over the years I have dabbled with SPD’s but I think I have finally come to the conclusion that, when cycling, I prefer to wear a solid pair of trainers or, when it’s hot, my Merrell sandles. These are all incompatible with SPD pedals which isn’t a problem for the PD-T8000 pedals as they have a flat side for people like me who think that SPD’s are just an invention too far. I may change my mind at some point in the future, but I doubt it, especially when I remember the extent to which the metal plates on the shoe can so effectively transfer cold to my feet. I’ve had no issues with the pedals. They get a top score.

Shimano XT Hydraulic Discbrakes

I first used discbrakes on a Cannondale bike that I rode a few years ago ( remember ‘Dale’? ). My main criticism of the brakes was that when going downhill they could be painful on the hands on the drop handlebars. They used cables. The Koga’s brakes are hydraulic. What a difference! Wonderfully smooth… Very easy and not painful to apply even on the steepest of Pennine hills. Yes, the brake pads are not easy to replace; I’ve only done that myself once and it did take a while (I usually ask for the brake pads to be changed whenever the bike needs a service using the expression ‘ oh and while you are at it, could you… ‘ to casually hide my fear of anything technical) and all brake pads are not equal! Some can be very noisy. It’s also difficult to see if the pads are worn down and whether they need changing. But these are criticisms of the brake pads rather than the brakes themselves which are excellent.

Score: 9/10 (Would get a 10 if Shimano invented a way of easily changing the pads…)

Son 28 Dynamo Hub

This is one of the things on the Koga that is a bit of a luxury but it does make life easy. No more batteries to change in the lights (see below) and a drip, drip of energy via the USB connection into my iPhone. I don’t think the charge would ever be sufficient to recharge the iPhone from low charge to high charge, especially if you are using the phone during the day to track your ride, check directions, take photos or capture video etc… but it does a decent job of keeping it topped up. I dare say this is an area in which technology will continue to improve, but probably at the battery end rather than the hub end. This, I suppose, future proofs the device. It’s a very useful thing to have and as far as I’m aware, the Son 28 does as good a job as any available dynamo hub.

Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour Tires

When I bought the bike, I didn’t opt for the Marathon Plus tires and I can’t remember why that was the case. Was I mad? I’ve used Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires for many, many years. Indeed on the three long trips across Europe, I only ever suffered one puncture and I put this down to the Marathon Plus tires. So why did I opt for Schwalbe Almotion tires when I bought Wanda? I replaced the Almotion tires earlier this year as I thought the tread was wearing a little thin and I had a slow puncture on the rear wheel. The tires – both Almotion and Marathon – are very wide, and standard Marathon Plus tires don’t come in such a wide format. The Almotions were ever-so-slightly wider than the Marathon Plus Tour tires that replaced them but the tread on the Marathon Plus Tour tires is just gorgeous. (How often do you hear people refer to tire tread in such terms?) I’m never going back. They make for a super-comfy ride.

Score: 10/10 (Marathon Plus Tour), 8/10 (Almotion)

Busch & Muller Lights

Combined with the Son dynamo hub, they are great. Very bright and they do what it says on the tin. However, I can’t understand why the rear light cuts out when you stop cycling. The front light remains lit. Not so with the rear light. Bearing in mind that when you are stationary the rear light is probably more important than the front light, it’s a design fault that gives the lights the lowest of any of the scores on this page. When I have been cycling at night (which isn’t very often – usually on the commute home from work), I have always attached a battery rear light as well. Which is a pity.

Score: 7/10. (Due to that pesky rear light cutting out)

Koga ‘Denham’ Handlebars

I love the wideness of these bars. It’s difficult to appreciate just how wide they are so here’s a picture taken in Northern Ireland last year as I cycled north along the Antrim coast:

As you can see, they are almost as wide as the carriageway… OK, not quite but they are wide! And that’s what makes them so wonderfully comfortable. (I note that I have used the word ‘comfort’ or ‘comfortable’ several times so far – you can clearly see where my priorities are…) There’s also plenty of room for the accessories on the ‘dashboard’ so as to speak. The name ‘Denham’ comes from the fact that they were designed in cooperation with Alee Denham who is a brand ambassador for Koga (see comments below) and one of his main innovations with these handlebars are the small bars protruding forward from the main bar. To be honest, I rarely use them. The position of my wonderful Crane Bell on the left doesn’t help. They are, however, useful for hanging things on. I’m sure Alee didn’t have that in mind when he slaved over their design…

Score: 9/10

Alee Denham appeared on episode 008 of The Cycling Europe Podcast which was dedicated to the purchase of a new touring bicycle.. Here is the full description of that episode:

“The Cycling Europe Podcast returns with a new touring bike special. Andrew P. Sykes visits CycleSense in Tadcaster, Yorkshire to pick up his new Koga Signature WorldTraveller bicycle and chats to the owner David Stainthorpe about his purchase. We hear from Koga brand ambassador Alee Denham from the website  CyclingAbout.com  about his experiences of cycling across South America on a Koga WorldTraveller bike. Andrew also chats to the master frame builder Richard Hallett about his life as a bespoke bicycle manufacturer and to one of his very satisfied customers, Andy Johnson. We hear an extract from Andrew’s first book – Crossing Europe on a Bike Called Reggie – in which he wrote about buying his first touring bicycle, a Ridgeback Panorama. Finally, the author reflects upon his first ride on his new touring bicycle, a bike called Wanda.”

Nothing beats referring to yourself in the third person…

So there you have my thoughts after riding the Koga Signature WorldTraveller bicycle for the past two years. It’s a great bike to ride. Expensive, yes, but worth every penny.

What was the overall score?

Out of ten, I give it… 9.3

Would I recommend it?

Of course I would .

Since 2009, CyclingEurope.org has established itself as a valued, FREE cycle touring resource. There’s now even a podcast, The Cycling Europe Podcast . If you enjoy the website and the podcast, please consider supporting the work of CyclingEurope.org with a donation. More information can be found here . Thanks if you do!

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Categories: Adventure , Cycling , Travel , Video

3 replies »

Thanks for this great review. I‘m thinking of buying this bike as I have been riding a Surly LHT for many years now but as I am getting older I wonder if an aluminium frame would be easier to handle than a heavy steel one – did you find a marked weight difference after riding the steel frame Ridgeback and is it therefore easier to lift / push / handle in general? Or am I mistaken in thinking this might be the case?

Thanks for the review, Andrew.

Looking at your rear light (Toplight Line Plus?) the spec. says “Standlight deactivates automatically after 4 minutes, or manually by push button when parked”. Might be a fault to get checked by supplier.

The Denham bar bullhorns are designed to “mimic the brake hoods of a drop handlebar .. helping reduce your body’s frontal area” (www.cyclingabout.com/koga-denham-bars), one to test next time you are confronted with a block headwind, though, as you say, you may need to rotate the bell out of the way.

Thanks Jon. I’ve just inspected the light and there is indeed a little button under the rear light. Can’t believe I’ve had the bike for over 2 years and only just discovered it!!! I’ll double check the light when I next go out for a ride. As for the handlebars, perhaps the bell needs a permanent repositioning. If the wind is so strong that it requires you to consider reducing ‘your body’s frontal area’ to help cut through the it, I would definitely not be using the bullhorns as keeping the bike steady would be much more difficult…

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• News, Current Affairs & Politics

• Cycling Forums
• Bikes & Buying Advice - What Bike?

Koga, E World Traveller

• Thread starter Slick
• Start date 11 Dec 2022

• 11 Dec 2022

Legendary Member

I can't say I have ever seen a delivery rider out on one of these. There is an option for a battery on the rear rack, but I reckon that is where my tent is going. I don't think the battery position will bother me, just not sure of the motor size. 🤔  

Slick said: I can't say I have ever seen a delivery rider out on one of these. There is an option for a battery on the rear rack, but I reckon that is where my tent is going. I don't think the battery position will bother me, just not sure of the motor size. 🤔 Click to expand...

Über Member

Not many e-bike charging stations in some parts of the world. Believe @steveindenmark has a non battery version.  

Cycleops said: Not many e-bike charging stations in some parts of the world. Believe @steveindenmark has a non battery version. Click to expand...

Carbon fibre... LMAO!!!

Vantage said: Any report I've read from owners with rack mounted batteries complain about the bike being too top heavy and problems fitting panniers. 75nm from the motor it's specced with is plenty for touring but you'll have to work hard up hills of 15% or more if heavily laden. I'd be more concerned with the battery size. 13.4ah lasting 140km? Unless Bosch motors are umpteen times more efficient than Bafang alternatives, that seems far fetched. My 20ah battery will power my 48v 750w Bafang motor to 144km IF I use it on minimal power (just enough to overcome motor resistance) on mostly level terrain with a tailwind for half the trip. I tested that. If I was buying that bike, I'd go for the non powered version and fit an aftermarket motor and battery for a good £100 less. Plus, if you wanted to ever go motor free, converting back to a normal chainset and BB is pretty easy. Not sure if a frame tailored to a motor has that option. Click to expand...

If it keeps you cycling longer why not! That's the real benefit if ebikes imho.  

Deleted member 121159

I'm very interested in the regular one - the geometry seems spot on, i.e., slightly longer top tube than drop bar bikes, but nothing like an MTB; high-ish stack but not too high; long chainstay, etc. Looks like this one has the same geometry. But where can you buy them in the UK?  

steveindenmark

• 12 Dec 2022

tripletail52 said: I'm very interested in the regular one - the geometry seems spot on, i.e., slightly longer top tube than drop bar bikes, but nothing like an MTB; high-ish stack but not too high; long chainstay, etc. Looks like this one has the same geometry. But where can you buy them in the UK? Click to expand...

HobbesOnTour

Slick said: Charging on multiple day tours is a concern, but I'm hopeful I can manage that. Click to expand...

HobbesOnTour said: From all that I've read that's one of the great world touring bikes - at least the acoustic version. I think @Vantage is spot on to consider battery capacity and range. This is the thing. It's not clear if you're camping or not but camping may involve higher costs or different pitches or even skipping certain sites if you're needing electricity or longer breaks as you charge up at a coffee shop etc. If planning on going abroad it might be no harm to check out current regulations. As far as I understand it, E-bikes are definitely not allowed on planes and may not be allowed on ferries. But as for a bike designed for Laden adventures in most conditions? Perfect! Click to expand...

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• Accessories

Koga WorldTraveller29

Coming out the box as a perfect world tourer package, we review the Koga WorldTraveller29 to see if there is anything we would change.

In 2008 Mark Beaumont broke the world record for riding around the world, and he did it on a Koga bike. So this is a company with a definite pedigree for long distance touring and adventure bikes.

The WorldTraveller29 is just that, made from triple hardened 6069 aluminium with a carbon fork to reduce trail buzz, capable of accepting lowrider pannier. 29 inch wheels help reduce rolling resistance offroad with 47mm puncture resistant tyres, while a 3x10 gearing setup means there is no excuse for being in the wrong ratio for the hills.

Reliable and bombproof Shimano SLX gearing keeps the bike moving while Magura rim brakes stop everything just as quick. Yes, rim brakes are old school, but in this case they have been specced to be completely reliable and easy to repair in the field should anything go wrong - not something you can always claim for modern hydraulic disc brakes.

This is a bike that really could take you around the world and back in its stride.

All our reviews are independent and unbiased. We may earn a commission when you buy from links to Amazon and other affiliates on this page.

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Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S Trekkingbike Review

The Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S is the electrified brother of the famous Koga WorldTraveller, one of the most famous trekkingbikes in The Netherlands. Read the review and watch the video!

• Weight: 24,86 kg 
• Size: 57 cm
• Price: € 6025

One of the most famous trekking bike brands in The Netherlands is Koga. Koga is based in Heerenveen – in the north of The Netherlands – and the name is a contraction of the names Kowallik and Gaastra, the couple that started the Koga brand. Later the brand was known under the name Koga Miyata. The Japanese Miyata once built the frames for Koga but somewhere in the mid ’90 the name Mitaya disappeared. Nowadays Koga belongs to the huge Accell Group. They are the owners of the original Dutch bikebrands Batavus and Sparta but also of Lapierre, Raleigh, Ghost, HaiBike and VanNicholas 

Size and weight

The Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S Trekkingbike that I am reviewing has a frame size of 57 cm and fits well my length of 169,5 cm. The bike is fully loaded: Bosch Performance CX-mid engine, PowerPack 500 battery, 14-speed Rohloff E-14 speedhub, Gates beltdrive, Shimano XT disc-brakes, SKS fenders, B&M lighting, Trelock lock, Brooks C17 Cambium saddle etc. The total weight as stated by Koga is 24,4 kg. I measured a tiny bit more: 24,86 kg and for an E-bike so complete this is pretty ok. 

Signature configuration

The Signature part in the name refers to the Signature configuration system of Koga. You ‘built’ your own custom bike on the Koga Signature website. Here you can adapt the ‘basic’ bike to your own demands. I did not do this since Koga lend me the bike and they made the choices. But I don’t think I would make any different choices accept for one. More on this later.

Frame and smooth welding

The Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S has an aluminum frame and fork. The frame tubes are manufactured by hydroforming – under water pressure – that gives the tubes their special shape. Thanks to this technique, tubes can be made in virtually any shape. This way tubes can be extremely thin – hence light – without losing strength. The fork has three attachment points for carriers or bottle-holders.

The Bosch mid-engine is an integral part of the frame and therefore it is a very solid construction. All welds on the frame are smooth and that is something of a trend thing. Smooth welding doesn’t say anything about the welds or the quality of the welds. It only says that the welds are hidden under a layer of putty so that you don’t see the welds anymore but you get a very clean looking frame. Personal note: I love high quality welding that is visible and I have never been a trendy-sensitive guy…

Wiring and mounting points

Since the Koga is an E-bike a lot of extra wiring is required I must say that Koga did a beautiful job. All electrical wires are mostly inside the frame which makes them less vulnerable. The same applies to the cables coming from the brakes levers. There is only one bit of wiring I don’t like: the electrical wire on the right side of the handlebar with some cheap electricity tape… 

The battery is mounted on the frame where you would normally place a bottle holder. The frame has three places to attach a bottle-holder to: one on the seat tube, one underneath the top tube and one underneath the down tube. The first only fits a small bottle-cage but in the other two large 1.5 liter ones do fit. 

Bosch-Rohloff-Gates

This is the first bike I ride with a Bosch-Rohloff-Gates combination and I am impressed. Since the Bosch motor is placed in the heart of the frame, the center of gravity and the balance of the Koga is spot on. The motor is operated with three buttons on the left side of the handlebar. The plus and minus symbols are used to change between the amount of support given by the engine. I have the choice between Eco, Tour, Sport, Turbo and “off”. This is all displayed in a screen that is located in the middle of the handlebar. The middle button is the information button an by pressing it I change the information in the display ranging from distance, speed, average speed, gear and also estimated reach. On the right side of the handlebar I have a second set of buttons. These operate the changing of gears in the Rohloff speedhub in the rear wheel. Yes, electric!

Electric Rohloff E-14 speedhub

The Rohloff E-14 speedhub is a hub with 14-gears in the hub. Shifting is traditionally done by a twist-grip on the handlebar. Turn the twist-grip on the handlebar and the gears go up or down. The Rohloff hub has a name in being a wonder of technique that is bulletproof. Since the Koga is an E-bike is it logical that the changing of gears is automatic to. 

Shifting through the gears of the electric14-speed Rohloff speedhub is astonishing. A press of one of the buttons operates a servo in the shifting mechanism that is positioned left side of the rear wheel. The whole system is about the same in size as the manual one. The shifting is fast, almost silent and very accurate. During riding on flat roads and not to steep ascents it works brilliantly. Pressing three times gives the same as manual shifting three gears up (or down). In fact it feels so natural and smooth I would prefer electrical shifting in favor of the manual one. Even on non-E-bikes. Except for two small remarks:

• With the manual system it is possible to climb a steep hill, pause the pedals for a millisecond and shift very quickly before coming to a complete stop. The automatic system is not that fast and sometimes it happened to me that shifting was not fast enough to keep the speed going. Changing gears with pressure on the pedals is not something a Rohloff-speedhub likes when climbing.
• The electric system detects when the bike is coming to a stop. For example in front of traffic light, a stop to look at the map or take zip from a bottle. When the bike stops the system automatically shifts back to gear number 6 (you can program this to your desire) so that the bike is in the right gear to start biking again. This is super except when you ‘stop’ by doing a sur-place or turning a very tight corner on one spot. The system doesn’t register that the bike keeps moving and it changes into 6 th gear. Something I don’t want at those moments.

Are those two remarks a big thing? The first… maybe. It depends on how you are going to use the bike. The second…. I know I am a bit of a nerd that tries tot to touch the ground when stopping as long as possible.

Gates belt-drive

The Gates belt drive. I love bikes with a belt. The main reason is that a belt is a very quiet way of getting energy from one part to the other. And because it is so silent I enjoy the ride more because I hear more sounds from nature, ok… mainly birds and wind. Also the facts that a belt requires hardly any maintenance and is free from grease are a pro. 

I’ve had a lot of debates about the durability of a belt-drive on a trekkingbike and some issues I do understand and some I don’t. Replacing one on a long trip I understand because you need to bring one. That belts break easily I don’t understand, chains break too. A belt drive on an E-bike is the proper thing to do: E-bikes are mostly used in environments with a high quality infrastructure so when things go wrong… help is at hand. By the way: a belt is a closed loop and in that respect different than a chain. To place or replace the belt the frame has an ‘opening’ (see picture) in the right seat stay. This does not compromise the frames integrity; one of the things I hear a lot. 

One thing that is important to know is that when the belt is not on the right tension and while putting a lot of force on the paddles, the belt is able to hop over the rear sprocket. This can lead to nasty crashes. To prevent this a snubber is mounted at the rear sprocket. This Snubber is a sort of little wheel that hover above the belt and prevents the belt from lifting so no sprocket hopping can occur.

Carriers and luggage

The E-WorldTraveller-S is equipped with carriers from the German brand Tubus. In the front Koga installed a Tubus Duo lowrider and in the back a Tubus Logo. The front is capable of loads up to 15 kg and the rear up to 26 kg. I always test the bikes I review with the same load so I can relate to bikes I tested in the past. In the front I have 10 kg in total and in the back 15 kg. I use dumbbells instead of real camping equipment – although the weight is based on my camping trips – and because of this method I don’t have differences in packing. I mostly use Ortlieb panniers. With the weight in the panniers, the bike and me the total weight is 112,86 kg. The frame and fork have no problems whatsoever with this weight. The handling and steering is fine. The maximum weight limit of the Koga is 130 kg so be aware of this. 

PowerPack 500 battery range

The range of an E-bike – any E-bike! – is probably the biggest issue with the most difficult answer. Why? Because there are so many variables that influence the range. Think about the support modus – Eco or Turbo -, wind, temperature, hills, luggage, what type of bike, tires, weight of the rider and how much physical power you are delivering. 

I know how I like to ride an E-bike and that is giving a lot a power myself cruising at 25 km/h and end up being totally exhausted after the ride. I see it as a workout. Therefor I ride 70% in Eco and sometimes (5%) in Tour. On the home stretch I go for Turbo to maximize speed and have fun draining the battery and me ( I did 41,5 km/h max on a bridge descent, no support from the motor of course). With the 113 kg and my way of riding I had a range of 100 km from the PowerPack 500 battery. That is decent for this kind of trekking E-bike. With playing between modes you can increase or decrees this dramatically.

Bosch knows that range is a big issue and made an eBike range assistant to give a ruff calculation on range. I put the link below the article. Charging an empty battery takes about 3 hours an when the battery is ‘empty’ there is still some power left for the lights and changing gears. Then you have a normal but a bit heavy trekkingbike. Nice is also that the Bosch engine almost gives no resistance when riding without power.

Shimano disc brakes

There was a time that disc brakes on a trekking bike where a no go. I didn’t understand it in those days and I am happy that times have changed in favor of them. The Koga is equipped with Shimano XT brakes. Both discs are 160 mm and the BRM-8000 calipers have double pistons. The Shimano XT brake levers are easy to adjust to accommodate smaller and larger hands. The dosage of the brakes is user friendly and braking force more than adequate, even with all the luggage.

The riding position on the Koga is sporty but comfortable. There is not a lot to play around with if you want to change the position a bit. You can only remove a few shims from the stem if you want a more sporty ride. The Koga-branded handlebar is 665 mm wide and the shape makes it extremely comfortable. The Brooks grips are not totally to my liking; they are too slippery on the top and that is the one thing I would change. The Brooks C-17 Cambium saddle I do like a lot. More on the Brooks in this video. 

The behavior of the Koga is very predictable and I do like the fact that it is a bike with a 27,5” wheelset. For me – small guy – this is the perfect balance between a compact bike setup, riding characteristics, and comfort. The rims on the E-WorldTraveller-S are from Ryde with Schwalbe Super Moto X 27.5 62 mm around them. On straight roads it is a super stable combination and when it gets a bit more curvy the behavior is what you would expect from a trekking bike: it goes with the flow. Frame and fork are fully loaded up to job. The beefy tires perform their best on flat and even tarmac. And when properly inflated they give little roll resistance. When riding more adventures roads – gravel, unpaved country roads – I had to experiment a bit with the tire pressure to make the ride a bit more comfortable. But with balloon tiers this big that is never a problem.

The verdict

The Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S has proven to be a very comfortable and well built travel companion. The riding position is fine for long distance travelling. The Bosch-Rohloff-Gates combination with the electronic E-14 shifting is worth a Gold Medal on it’s own. I would like to see the availability of this E-shifting on regular trekkingbikes with a small powerpack to feed it. The Koga ride is quiet thanks to the belt. Frame and fork are capable of carrying at least the 130 kg load limit. The beefy tires make the E-WorldTraveller-S suitable for a lot of road conditions. For what it’s worth: the range of the PowerPack 500 battery is about 100 km and that is fine for an E-trekkingbike. Small minuses are there for the shifting up steep hills, the Brook grips and the sloppy taping of the electrical wire on the handlebar. The price is of the Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S as I tested it is € 6025,00 and that seems to be a fair price to pay in this top category of E-trekkingbikes. But…. If you are planning to buy one the minuses should be solved and the mandatory bell should be on the handlebar. I rate the Koga Signature E-WorldTraveller-S at 9.2/10 points.Koga statement: ‘We are sorry we forgot to mount the bell on the bike. It should have been there. Our mistake, won’t happen again!’

Information: www.koga.com

More on Rohloff and Bosch

Rohloff E-14 Speedhub

Bosch Range Assistant US

Bosch Range Assistant UK

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• Rider Notes

2022 Koga WorldTraveller

An aluminum frame touring bike with modest components and hydraulic disc brakes. Compare the full range

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Koga Worldtraveller

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Size / XS, SM, MD, LG, XL

At a glance

Where to buy, specifications.

• Fork Alloy rigid
• Hubs Shimano Deore M6010
• Wheel Size 29
• Tires Schwalbe, Marathon Efficiency 55-622
• Crank Shimano
• Shifters Shimano , Deore XT T8000
• Brakeset Rear: Shimano , MT400, Hydraulic disc brake, Front: Shimano , MT400, Hydraulic disc brake
• Saddle Selle Royal
• Stem KOGA adjustable stem - A-head

Q: How much is a 2023 Koga Worldtraveller?

A 2023 Koga Worldtraveller is typically priced around €2,749 EUR when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

Q: Where to buy a 2023 Koga Worldtraveller?

The 2023 Koga Worldtraveller may be purchased directly from Koga .

Q: What size wheels does the 2023 Koga Worldtraveller have?

The 2023 Koga Worldtraveller has 29 wheels.

Q: What size 2023 Koga Worldtraveller should I get?

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• Koga World Traveller vs VSF TX 800 oder Alternativen

Diskutiere Koga World Traveller vs VSF TX 800 oder Alternativen im Trekking-Rad Forum im Bereich Fahrrad-Foren Allgemein; Hallo zusammen, ich suche ein neues Fahrrad. Ich möchte das Rad im Alltag fahren (Stadt, ab und zu Nachbarort, zukünftig Erzgebirgsrand), am Wochenende mal eine Tour und

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Hallo zusammen, ich suche ein neues Fahrrad. Ich möchte das Rad im Alltag fahren (Stadt, ab und zu Nachbarort, zukünftig Erzgebirgsrand), am Wochenende mal eine Tour und zukünftig Radurlaub / längere Strecken damit machen. Das Koga habe ich mir angesehen und bin auch gefahren, es hat mir auf Anhieb gefallen und ist derzeit unter 1800 € zu haben. Alternativ finde ich auch das VSF mit Stahlrahmen interessant. Von meiner ursprünglichen Idee einer Rohloff Schaltung bin ich wieder weiter weg, die Zielsetzung von Radurlauben ist wichtiger geworden. Ein weiterer Händler hat mir noch das Intec M05 mit Nabenschaltung gezeigt. Es fuhr ebenfalls angenehm, ist jedoch deutlich teurer - bietet es, von der Nabe abgesehen, Vorteile? Was spricht für / gegen die Räder, gibt es im Vergleich entscheidende Vor- oder Nachteile? Viele Grüße, Holger

Du hast halt unterschiedliche Ansätze, wobei ich nicht ganz verstehe warum die Rohloff wegen der Reisen aus der Wahl fallen soll, das Intec mit Rohloff aber wiederum interessant ist. Der Vorteil des TX800 ist schlicht, es hat shcon den Lowrider dran, den musst du bei den anderen hinzu konfigurieren bzw. kaufen. Der Rest ist relativ ähnlich, zumal die ja auch ähnliche bis gleiche Teile verbauen. Letztlich würde ich es im Wesentlichen vom Fahrgefühl bei der Probefahrt abhängig machen, wenn es mir wichtig ist, mit Beladung.

Die Rohloff ist nicht wegen einem deutlicheren Schwerpunkt auf Reisen unattraktiver geworden, ich habe mich hier missverständlich ausgedrückt. In Sachen Schaltsystem bin ich eher leidenschaftslos, mit Kettenschaltungen hatte ich über lange Jahre bei einem Mindestmaß an Pflege nie ein Problem. Der Fahrradhändler hat das Intec mit der Rohloff ins Spiel gebracht, für mich stellt sich hauptsächlich die Frage, ob sich der -doch nicht unerhebliche- Mehrpreis lohnt.

Einen Mehrpreis für Rohloff (oder Pinion), wirst du immer haben. Das TX1200 ist ja auch ein ganz klein wenig teurer als das 800er. Vorteile oder Nachteile sind auch eine Sache davon, was einem persönlich wichtig ist. Wenn man Ketten ölen, wechseln, Zahnkranzwechsel usw. ziemlich blöd findet, bietet sich eine Rohloff durchaus an, weil sie -neben dem Pinion-Getrieb- voll reisetauglich ist, also auch sehr kleine berggängie Übersetzungen verkraftet. Das ist eine Abwägung. Mein Reiserad läuft -aus anderen Gründe- auch mit einer 2x10 Kettenschaltung und ich vermisse selten etwas, obwohl ich schon einige Male die Rohloff gefahren bin und ihre Vorteile deutlich sehe. Das Intec ist ein seriöses Rad und für das was du dafür bekommst, nicht überteuert - aber eben auch teurer als das VSF. Beim Koga kommt es darauf an, wie es konfiguriert wird, kann teurer kann günstiger sein.

Das Koga steht als Standardmodell zu 1750 € zur Wahl, ein frei konfigurierbares Signature liegt preislich noch einmal deutlich höher.

Zitat von camerlengo1 Das Koga steht als Standardmodell zu 1750 € zur Wahl, ein frei konfigurierbares Signature liegt preislich noch einmal deutlich höher. Siehste und damit ist das TX800 preislich das Attraktivste. Ob es auch beim Fahren das Beste ist, musst du rausfinden.

Ich stand vor vier Jahren auch vor der Wahl KOGA Worldtraverler, KOGA Randoneur, Giant LT oder VSF T-800/1000. Ich habe mich das T-800 entschieden und das obwohl ich das KOGA Randoneur und das Giant LT für 1.500 € hätte bekommen können, also mit einer sehr großen Ersparnis. Für das T-800 habe ich letztlich 1.350 € gezahlt. Bei Koga zahlt man auch ein gutes Stück den Namen mit, der Preis liegt tendenziel also höher als bei VSF. Das macht es natürlich nicht zu einem schlechten Rad, ganz im Gegenteil, aber mir gefiel das VSF Rad ganz persönlich einfach besser. Die 47er Reifen empfinde ich als perfekt, den Brezellenker der KOGAs hätte ich sofort abmontiert, den finde ich grausam (andere mögen es vielleicht). Von der Ausstattung her tut sich jedenfalls nicht viel.

Hallo Stoker, danke für deinen Beitrag. Finanziell tun sich beide derzeit nicht viel, die eher geringe Differenz ist mir nicht wichtig für eine Anschaffung, die vielleicht alle 10 Jahre ansteht. Der Brezellenker wird nicht mehr verbaut, 47er Reifen haben beide. Das TX 800 scheint mir etwas besser ausgestattet zu sein (sortenreine XT statt XT/SLX Mix; Lowrider), wobei ich das, wenigstens bei den Komponenten, für nahezu unbeachtlich halte (?). Am Koga gefällt mir die sehr schöne Rahmenverarbeitung. Die grundsätzliche Frage ist für mich auch, ob Stahl oder Alurahmen - zu Meinungen darüber kann man sich allerdings auch zu Tode lesen :-). Ebenso scheint mir die Geometrie des Koga näher am Mountainbike zu sein als die des TX 800.

Ob da nun ein paar SLX Komponenten drauf sind wäre mir total egal. Bei Alu vs. Stahl streiten sich die Geister, die vor und Nachteile der jeweiligen Materialien wurden ja in der Vergangenheit mehr als ausreichend erörtert. Ich bin da pragmatiker und mir ist die Materialwahl nicht so wichtig, denn schweißen wäre mir egal, die Verewindungssteifigkeit von Stahl reicht mir selbst am Reiserad, andersherum sind mir bei 47er pellen herzlich egal wie viel so eine Stahlgabel abfängt. Und ich bin auch der Meinung, dass man einen Alu Rahmen noch noch 10 Jahren fahren kann. Bei der Wahl zwischen den beiden Rädern würde für mich nur zählen auf welchem du besser sitzt. Mit anderen Worten, der von dir zu letzt genannte Punkt wäre für mich entscheidend -> die Geometrie.

@ Stoker Hast du das im Winter gekauft, oder wie hast du es für 1.500€ bekommen können? --- Update --- Die andere Frage, was ist denn am World Traveler noch so anders als beim TX-800? Das Traveler hat ja einen Alu Rahmen und das TX Stahl. Trotzdem wiegt das Traveler 2kg mehr als das TX.

Zitat von Sveno @ Stoker Hast du das im Winter gekauft, Ja, ich habe es im November gekauft und 1459€ gezahlt. Damals lag die UVP aber auch noch niedriger.

Nachdem ich nun ein paar Hunder km mit dem TX-800 gefahren bin, bin ich Zwiegespalten. Das hat aber hauptsächlich mit der Reifengröße zutun. Alles andere sind eher Überlegungen ob es manche Teile gibt die ich vielleicht anders haben möchte. Die 28" sind für Überlandreise auf Straßen und gut ausgebauten Radwegen super. Ich fahre durchschnittlich 26km/h ohne Anstrengung und habe super Höchstgeschwindigkeiten. Sobald ich aber auf Schotter unterwegs bin oder eine Furche kommt, wird das ganze sehr instabil. Ich bin schon einige Male zur Seite weggerutscht und habe viel weniger Kontrolle als bei meinem alten 26" Rad. Das könnte zum Teil auch an der Bereifung liegen, aber ja - ein sehr anderes Fahrgefühl. Ich werde mir für Reisen durch unebeneres Gelände dann wohl nochmal das TX-400 anschauen. Für mich ist das Rad somit eher ein Überland-Reiserad das man eher in der Zivilisation benutzt, als im Outback auf schlecht befahrbaren Wegen. Die Verlängerungen am Lenker sind auch gut, könnten nur etwas dicker und 2-3cm länger sein. Überlegungen die ich anstelle, da es für mich immer nah der Zivilisation benutzt wird sind: Eigentlich hätte ich dann doch gerne eine Scheibenbremse, da ich immer in der Nähe von Orten fahre wo man sich vom Fahrradhändler retten lassen kann. Und sollte es nicht doch eher eine Narbenschaltung sein? Die Kettenschaltung ist ja schon viel Pflegeintensiver und springt dann schon öfters. Kette würde ich wohl eher Bevorzugen wenn ich mitten im Nirgendwo unterwegs bin. Ein Echter Negativpunkt ist der Spritzschutz. Der hat nach Oben nicht wirklich viel Platz und stößt deswegen gelegentlich gegen die Reifen vorne. Ich muss noch schauen ob ich ein paar Millimeter gewinnen kann, aber selbst dann ist das so wenig Platz, dass das bei Dreck oder gar Schlamm schnell dicht sein könnte. Es hört sich bei Schottersteinen schon so an als ob das Steinchen gleich drin stecken bleibt.

Zitat von Sveno Für mich ist das Rad somit eher ein Überland-Reiserad das man eher in der Zivilisation benutzt, als im Outback auf schlecht befahrbaren Wegen. Also ich hatte bislang noch keine Probleme mit seitlichem Wegrutschen oder ähnlichem. Aber klar ist natürlich, dass dieses Rad eher für normale Schotterwege und Straße optimiert ist. Ich bin zwar auch schon in Tschechien über Wege gefahren die ich noch nicht mal mit einem MTB fahren wollen würde, aber ich war dann auch heilfroh wieder runter zu sein. Mit dem TX-800 und den 47er Pellen konnte ich mich da aber noch gut durchwuseln, bei meinen Freunden, die mit einem Vello de Ville reiserad und einem Stevens 8x lite Tour unterwegs waren (beide mit 37er bereifung) ging da stellenweise gar nichts mehr. Also klar, mit einem 26 Reiserad oder besser einem MTB ist man bei schlechten Weg verhältnissen besser aufgehoben, das ist dann halt aber auch ein anderes Rad mit dem man deutlich schlechter Straße fährt als mit dem TX-800. Hast du das TX-400 dann etwa als zweitbike im Auge? Mir wären die Räder zu nah bei einander. Ich würde dann als Bike für härteres Gelände lieber etwas robusteres und im zweifelsfall gefedertes nehmen. Früher gab es mal das Giant Expedition AT. Zitat von Sveno Und sollte es nicht doch eher eine Narbenschaltung sein? Die Kettenschaltung ist ja schon viel Pflegeintensiver und springt dann schon öfters. Kette würde ich wohl eher Bevorzugen wenn ich mitten im Nirgendwo unterwegs bin. Beim TX-800 kann man tatsächlich über eine Rohloff nachdenken, weil die gar nicht so viel teurer ist (das TX-1000 gibt es regelmäßig für 2.200 €). Probleme hatte ich mit der Kettenschaltung aber noch nicht. Zitat von Sveno Ein Echter Negativpunkt ist der Spritzschutz. ...aber selbst dann ist das so wenig Platz, dass das bei Dreck oder gar Schlamm schnell dicht sein könnte. Es hört sich bei Schottersteinen schon so an als ob das Steinchen gleich drin stecken bleibt. Das kann ich voll und ganz unterschreiben. Im Herbst bei Laub kann das echt nervig sein. Das ist für mich der einzige wirklich negative Punkt an dem Bike. Ich nehme an du hast das TX-800 mit der Mondial bereifung?

Zitat von Stoker Ich nehme an du hast das TX-800 mit der Mondial bereifung? Ja. Was das Giant Expedition AT betrifft: Ich bin bei Federgabeln noch immer etwas Zwiegespalten. Bislang bin ich ohne gut zurecht gekommen. Und aufm Reiserad würde es mir - abgesehen vom Gewicht, mir zu viel Tretenergie wegnehmen. Oder kann man die Federung ganz zudrehen, so dass sie gar nicht dämpft? Und Stahl finde ich inzwischen gar nicht so schlecht. Der Alu Rahmen würde es ja wieder leichter machen, aber es is ja schon ein anderes Fahrgefühl ^^ Sehe ich das richtig, dass die den Low-Rider oberhalb der Federgabel angebraucht haben?

[QUOTE=Sveno;2812663] Zitat von Stoker Sehe ich das richtig, dass die den Low-Rider oberhalb der Federgabel angebraucht haben? Ja. Idealerweise gehört das Gepäck bei Federgabeln nach oben zur gefederten Masse. Ob man die Federgabel blockieren kann weiß ich nicht.

dann muss die Feder ja bis zu 170kg Gewicht federn können. Aluminium widerspricht allerdings schon etwas einem Reiserad fürs Outback, findest du nicht?

Zitat von Sveno dann muss die Feder ja bis zu 170kg Gewicht federn können. Aluminium widerspricht allerdings schon etwas einem Reiserad fürs Outback, findest du nicht? Nein, finde ich überhaupt nicht. Wenn man wirklich etwas sucht, dass das TX-800 in der Geländegängigkeit nach oben ersetzt würde ich wirklich das AT oder ein Mountainbike ins Auge fassen. Alles andere währe mir zu ähnlich.

Also das Giant Expedition AT finde ich schon interessant. Aber ich glaube ich würde ein TX-400 nehmen und es mit einer Federgabel modifizieren die man komplett blockieren kann – wenn es so etwas gibt. Kenne mich mit Federgabeln noch nicht so aus. Hab noch nie eine gehabt. Interessant fürs Reise in ferne Länder fände ich auch einen teilbaren Rahmen.

Zitat von Sveno Also das Giant Expedition AT finde ich schon interessant. Aber ich glaube ich würde ein TX-400 nehmen und es mit einer Federgabel modifizieren die man komplett blockieren kann Denk aber auch daran, dass ein guter Highrider für Federgabeln richtig Geld kostet und eine gute Gabel auch.

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1000-1900€ ich bezweifel es aber ich versuche es.[/QUOTE] Wenn Du keinen lokalen Händler findest, schau bei den Shops (rebike und co.) der Leasinggeber nach. Dort findest Du auch welche, die bis zu...

Doch, doch! Familie und andere Hobbies sind vorhanden :-) Die Steuererklärung muss auch noch gemacht werden! Aber ich habe einen ausgedehnten Spieltrieb und bin sehr neugierig, was Technik angeht....

Du hast viel Freizeit, oder? Sonst keine Hobbies, Familie, …?

Oh, danke für die Info! Ich hatte "Gravel Bike" ausgewählt. Das hatte bisher immer gut funktioniert von den Wegen her.

Also ich finde ca 70% der klassischen Rahmen wenn ich bei uns nach Trekkingbike suche und du hast ja schon einen Schwung zur Auswahl... Die kleinen Gänge bekommt man ja mit der cues auch hin, da...

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Video: My New Koga WorldTraveller Touring Bike

I flew to the Netherlands to visit the Koga factory and take delivery of my new Koga WorldTraveller touring bike. These wheels will take me all the way from Argentina to Alaska over the next couple of years.

It was really cool visiting the Koga factory and seeing the quality control, wheel building and custom bike assembly. I had the Koga employees explain all of the small details to me which I’ll elaborate on in a separate article soon.

Like me, you might be surprised that Koga doesn’t produce steel touring bikes anymore. The official word is that their steel bike sales were slowing and the alloy frames tested better – so they committed to the dark side. I’m looking forward to seeing whether this frameset is indeed as nice to ride as my outgoing steel touring bike .

KOGA WorldTraveller Touring Bike Specs

Frame: KOGA WorldTraveller-S Alloy (60cm / Classic Grey) Fork: KOGA WorldTraveller-S Alloy Headset: Koga Sealed Bearing Steering Limiter Stem: Koga Signature Alloy Handlebars: Velo Orange Casey’s Crazy Bar Grips: ESI Silicone and Koga Bartape Seatpost: Koga Signature Alloy Saddle: Velo Unbranded

Gears: Rohloff Speedhub 14 speed Internally Geared Hub Shifter: Rohloff Grip Shifter Front Hub: Schmidt SON28 Dynamo Rims: Ryde Andra 210 Spokes: Sapim DB Tyres: Schwalbe Almotion Evo 700 x 50mm

Brake Levers: Shimano XT Hydraulic Brakes: Shimano XT Hydraulic

Crankset: Truvativ Stylo 175mm Chainring: Gates Carbon Drive Centertrack 50t Cog:   Gates Carbon Drive Centertrack 21t Pedals: Shimano XT T8000

Fenders: SKS Chromoplastics Charger:   Tout Terrain The Plug III Lights: Schmidt SON Edelux and B&M Toplight Line Plus Bidon Cages: BBB Fuel Tank XL Phone Mount: Quadlock Front Panniers: Ortlieb SportRoller Plus Front Rack: Tubus Duo Rear Panniers: Ortlieb BackRoller Plus Rear Rack: Tubus Logo Kickstand: Pletcher Comp

Weight:  ~15kg or 33lbs

• cyclingabout the americas
• koga worldtraveller

16 comments

Wait. You *didn’t* go for a recumbent?! ;p Seriously, looks great and I’m stoked for your trip.

What size wheels? Looks great, looking forwward to hearing about the trip.

700x50c or 29×2.0″.

Stoked for you and your ride! You probably have or will put the best shoes on your hydraulic disc brakes; I have HDBs on my very modest REI Novara Torero and love ’em. And you found the very best hybrid pedals, IMO. I stumbled across them by accident online after half a dozen bike shops in in bike-tony Boulder CO USA failed to ‘steer’ me to them when I was asking for SPD/pinned big-footprint combo.

Wow! I’m placing an order for a nearly identical bike in January. Did they do the crazy bar install? I asked and they recommended I buy their cheapest bar and do it myself, but your wraps look wonderful – better than I could do. I also plan on using the cinq5 shifters, but other than colour and seat, identical. Thanks for the preview of my home for the next year+

So excluding the parts you brought with you to install what was the rough cost of the bike?

It’s around 4000€ for something like this. You can see the exact price of a build you may like in the Koga Configurator: https://www.koga.com/en/koga-signature

If the price tag seems a bit high, perhaps the base-model WorldTraveller with derailleurs is the smarter option: https://www.koga.com/en/bikes/trekking/collection/worldtraveller.htm?frame=H

What gear ratio have you chosen for your Rohloff on this bike? 40/16?

It’s 50/20 or 2.5:1.

So exactly the same ratio as 40/16. With the Rohloff it gives you more or less a lower ratio of 24/34 in a traditional transmission. Seems awfully small, but loaded as your bicycle is, I guess it would be just small enough to climb some tough hills or mountains! 🙂

Hi Absolutely stunning setup. I hope you will have a great trip. All the best from Poland! Cheers

Many thanks!

Velo Orange Crazy Bars! The number one hidden gem in the cycling industry.

How are you finding the ride of this bike compared to your old LHT? With the loads in the rear rack and upfront, is it more stable and less whippy?

Hi. Why did you choose the Rohloff gearhub rather than the Pinion?

Hi. Why did you choose Rohloff gearhub instead of Pinion?

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• Retro Classic Road

Koga Miyata Worldtraveller; cable routing

• Thread starter YourroyalHEINniss
• Start date Jul 6, 2023
• Tags koga miyata worldtravller

YourroyalHEINniss

• Jul 6, 2023

Yup, the whole cable goes through. To make it easier, use an inner cable that is really long, run through both outer cables and then let it guide the new cable when you pull the old one. Bit of lube that won't react with either rubber or metal to make it run through easier.  

• Jul 7, 2023

2nd that. Good advice. With FullPros for example the cable doens not run through.  

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Destination swaps: cheaper alternatives to traditional holiday hotspots

Holidaymakers are seeking the same travel experience in lesser-known locations

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Our holiday habits are changing in a bid to "avoid the impact of over-tourism, save money and make new discoveries". Holidaymakers are increasingly on the lookout for "alternatives to more obvious holiday hotspots", and opting for "step-sibling" destinations that offer a similar experience.

According to the British Airways Travel Trends Report , released last week, 31% of UK consumers said they would opt for "lesser-known alternative locations".

This type of thinking "outside the box" will become more commonplace in 2024 and 2025, as "travellers become more curious about less well-known locations, consider their environmental impact and take inspiration from insider recommendations on social media that might be cheaper or offer more value". 

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So where are the alternative destinations that can compete against the originals?

Dubai welcomed over a million UK tourists last year, but it has a neighbouring "smaller substitute", said The Sun . The northernmost emirate of Ras Al Khaimah, usually referred to as "RAK", often "flies under the radar when people think of the United Arab Emirates", but it's a great – and cheaper – alternative to Dubai. RAK is known for its "endless miles of terracotta-coloured coastline, desert, and year-round warm weather", and you can swim, relax, shop, head off on a desert safari or experience the world's longest zip line. 

Imagine a trip to the Maldives, and "a stilted, over-water hideaway is the first thing many people picture", said The Independent . However, there are other options for "over-water opulence", with stays offering the same sense of "serenity and luxury".

On the "pint-sized Belizean island" of Cayo Espanto, there are just seven sea villas, while in the Banyan Tree Mayakoba Resort in Mexico's Playa del Carmen, the villas are set on "wildlife-filled waterways". In Malaysia, the St Regis Langkawi is "less over-water villa and more over-water palace", while the lake villas in Thailand's Khao Sok national park have views of "forested mountains, bird-dotted limestone cliffs and the lake's emerald-green water".

Closer to home, Europe has several destination doppelgangers for beach holidays – for a "fraction of the price", said The Telegraph . Instead of "crowded favourites", head instead to "stunning secret seaside spots" in Eastern Europe. 

This can net serious savings, with half-board in a four-star hotel from £35 per person per night, compared with "a similar stay in Marbella" at upwards of £500. Holiday spending is likely to be lower too, said the newspaper, with a sunset cruise priced at £15 in Montenegro compared to £55 in Mykonos, with sunbed and umbrella hire costing £10 and £50, and cocktails coming in at £4 and £14. 

Among other recommendations are Albania's "very own 'Ionian Pearl'", the Ksamil Islands; the "mesmerising emerald pool" of Kravica Waterfalls, Bosnia and Herzegovina; the "Hungarian Sea" of Lake Balaton, and "21 miles of silky, white sand beach" in Jūrmala, near the Latvian capital, Riga.

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Adrienne Wyper has been a freelance sub-editor and writer for The Week's website and magazine since 2015. As a travel and lifestyle journalist, she has also written and edited for other titles including BBC Countryfile, British Travel Journal, Coast, Country Living, Country Walking, Good Housekeeping, The Independent, The Lady and Woman’s Own.

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Only for trekking bikes

E-Worldtraveller Rigid

The above price includes VAT and excludes a recycling contribution for the battery of €4.50 for the Netherlands.

• Completely new frame with a load capacity of up to 180 kg
• MRS Rail for attaching additional accessories
• Integrated rear luggage rack; load capacity of up to 45 kg and smart attachment points

The Worldtraveller bicycles can be put together completely according to your wishes. As standard you can choose from the variant with and without electrical support, but you can also put together the Worldtraveller yourself with the KOGA Signature program.

Learn more about the KOGA Worldtraveller trekking bikes >

No need to remove the mudguards as the WorldTraveller with its 27.5” wheels can accommodate tyres of up to 72 mm so you can tackle any kind of surface.

All our trekking bikes are fitted with disc brakes. Disc brakes offer stable braking performance under all weather conditions.

The rear luggage rack is integrated into the frame creating a stiffer construction. This is especially noticeable when the bike is loaded. The KOGA WorldTraveller gives a more stable ride and tighter steering.

The cables run through the frame tubes giving them better protection from the elements. This also makes the bike easier to keep clean and gives it a more attractive and streamlined look.

The lowrider features an extra stand, so the bike remains stable even when fully loaden.

Mount components and accessories, such as an extra bottle holder, on the MRS Rail.

The compact Bosch battery is fully integrated into the down tube of the frame and can easily be removed from the side. The battery can be charged either on or off the bike.

Wherever possible, the KOGA frame has perfectly smooth welds, creating beautifully clean lines throughout. Not only is this aesthetically pleasing, it also reduces the likelihood of corrosion around the welds, areas that are often highly prone to this.

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