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Does Your RCD Keep Tripping? Here’s How To Fix It…

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Are you fed up of times when your RCD keeps tripping for no apparent reason and shutting the electricity off in your house? Perhaps you’ve noticed that even though you’ve replaced the faulty component, it’s still tripping again and again. Why does this happen and what should you do about it?

This article will explore the different reasons why your RCD could trip, how you can prevent it from happening in the first place, and finally what actions you could take when the RCD trips.

What is an RCD?

Residual current device (RCD) is a safety device designed to switch off the power if there is a fault, acting as a trip switch. RCDs go beyond the safety levels offered by regular fuses and circuit breakers. An RCD is usually located in the fuse box (consumer unit). It might also be located between the circuit breaker and power sockets.

An RCD usually goes on the supply side of the equipment it protects, often inside a fuse box or on a distribution board. Some equipment may also have an RCD built into the plug. There are different types of RCDs that can serve various requirements.

RCDs generally work by monitoring the current flow in a lower voltage circuit. If they detect an issue with the current flow they shut off the power to the entire system, which prevents electrocution or severe injuries.

It makes sure that electricity will not flow to your home or business in the event of a fault, such as a short circuit. In simple terms, the RCD acts as a failsafe device and can be a lifesaver.

Why does the RCD keep tripping?

There are many reasons why your RCD can keep tripping, and in this section, we will explore some of the more common causes for it. It is important that you pay close attention to this section especially prior to electrical rewiring as this will help address most of the issues at the forefront.

Faulty Appliance

A faulty appliance is one of the main causes why RCD keeps tripping. Technically, RCDs are designed to protect against electrical circuit faults from faulty appliances. If an RCD trips, it has done its job and removed the faulty electrical circuit from the power network which could potentially cause a fire. In most cases, this will be caused by appliances that have been poorly installed or maintained.

Incorrect RCD Current Rating Used

Each Residual Current Device is designed to trip when the current flowing through it exceeds a certain value. If the RCD’s rated value is too low, it will trip unnecessarily. You may find that your RCD is tripping repeatedly. This could indicate that it has the wrong rated current and should be replaced with one of the correct rating.

All RCDs should trip when the current exceeds its rating. A sign of an under-rated RCD is one that trips repeatedly, particularly on small overloads.

Low-Quality RCD

A low-quality RCD is a common cause of premature tripping. A true RCD will reset itself within a few minutes. It should never trip while it is resetting. Good quality RCDs should be able to withstand the current that passes through them during a reset continuously for at least an hour without overheating.

Accurate tripping is a great feature of RCD’s. It means that they are working correctly and if anything gets in the way such as a fault or a blockage it can trip quickly and easily. A low quality RCD will not be able to detect correctly and trips over time.

Fridge/Freezers Cooling Down

When your fridge or freezer begins to cool down, the motor inside it increases its work rate. This can cause power spikes, even when plugged into an RCD protected power point.

An RCD can react if there is a sudden rise in electrical current use or leakage current, due to the contents of your refrigerator or freezer thawing out.

Occasionally, a poorly connected appliance can cause a spike in electricity supply. If this happens, the RCD will trip and reset as it is designed to do. Electricity supply should return to normal shortly afterwards.

Moisture in Electrical Sockets

Moisture in outside electrical boxes and sockets can cause a trip by the RCD. It is vital that you detect moisture in your socket box early on. Exterior electrical terminal boxes and outlets should be periodically checked for moisture; signs of moisture may include weather-sealed cases that have deteriorated and/or reset switches that trip randomly.

Use of Older Washing Machines/Dryers or Motors/Pumps

Spikes can also be the result of poorly maintained or incorrectly connected equipment such as older electrical appliances, such as washing machines and dryers, which can cause the power to surge. With motors and pumps, if there is a correlation between the frequency/time of surges and use of an appliance, then it is most likely that that appliance was causing the RCD trip.

This trips when there is a sudden spike of electricity that can cause injury or damage. These spikes can be caused by lightning strikes, electrical faults, power tools, appliances with motors or pumps, old washing machines and dryers and so on.

Issues with Central Heating Systems

A faulty component in your central heating could cause RCD trips. An RCD trip is often triggered when the faulty part turns on and off repeatedly, which may lead to false alarms. Permanent damage could be caused to electrical equipment if your home suffers frequent or prolonged RCD trips due to a faulty component.

Water in Wiring

Maintaining a high standard of electrical safety is crucial. When the resistance of a piece of wiring exceeds a certain level electricity will travel via a shortcut. If this path happens to include water or dampness, your RCD will trip to protect you from the risk of electrocution, which is probably why the RCD keeps tripping.

In many cases, residents and vacationers alike fail to properly care for their recreational vehicles and water intrusion can occur. Due to this, there is a possibility of RCD trips.

Fixing a Tripping RCD

Having looked at the various causes on why RCD keeps tripping, let’s expand further on each of them to understand how we could fix a RCD that keeps tripping.

How to fix faulty appliance from tripping

If you suspect that a faulty appliance may be causing your RCD to trip, try unplugging every electrical appliance in your home and checking whether your RCD resets correctly. If it does, plug in each appliance one by one and reset your RCD as you plug in each item.

If suddenly the RCD starts tripping again shortly after plugging in one item in particular, then you’ve likely identified the specific cause.

How to fix incorrect RCD Rating used

If your circuit breaker is rated beyond the requirements of the home’s electrical system, it may need to be replaced. Professional electricians can visit homes for visual inspection to determine whether or not the RCD needs to be replaced.

How to fix low-quality RCD

It is best for a trained electrician to replace low quality RCD. In most cases, this kind of professional installation is necessary. It can even be dangerous to replace the RCD yourself – this is why you should hire a reputable contractor to replace it.

How to fix Fridge/Freezers from tripping

It might be possible that the motor cooling the fridge or freezer is broken. A professional may recommend having it replaced or rerouting the wires connected to the appliance to prevent tripping. If the motor is tripping, it would be best to call a professional. You can get it replaced or reroute the wiring to prevent RCD trips.

Fixing the RCD trips caused by moisture in Electrical Sockets

The moisture present outside electrical boxes or sockets can be risky when it comes to the safety of the property.  When you encounter an electrical problem due to moisture present in outside electrical boxes or sockets, it is important to first turn off the power supply completely before drying the electrical boxes or sockets. If the weather seals have been destroyed beyond repair, it is recommended that you have them replaced.

Fixing trips from older washers and motors

A licensed electrician  can take a look at your washer or dryer if you believe that one of these devices is the cause. If you are right, they may suggest having a particular part repaired or replaced, depending on the severity of the issue.

Fixing RCD trips caused by central heating issues

If you have a RCD tripping due to central heating problems, call an electrician to assess your home’s wiring. The RCD will trip if the correct electrical current cannot be delivered to the part being used. Depending on the scale of the problem, you might need to replace old wiring or have an electrician do it for you.

Alternatively, you can get in touch with a professional electrician who will be able to give suggestions as to how you can avoid similar issues in the future, such as repairing now and replacing in the future.

How to Fix RCD Trips Caused by Water in Wiring

The right heating and ventilating systems are vital to ensuring that moisture is not present in your home’s wiring. In other words, improperly ventilated or heated homes can cause water to damage electrical wiring. Heating and ventilation systems can be combined with humidity control devices, such as a hygrostat (humidistat) or a hygrotherm, to regulate the moisture levels in a home.

How to remove an RCD from your fusebox

In order to remove the RCD from the fuse box, you must first ensure that all electrical load has been disconnected from the RCD. Once all loads have been disconnected, you will notice a small tab on the front of the RCD. Take a flat bladed screwdriver and insert it into the slot on the back of the RCD. Next, firmly pull down on the slot as you pull the RCD away from the fuse box.

In most cases, the RCD is located in the fuse box. The RCD switch may be labelled “RCD.” Alternatively, you may locate a “T” or “Test” above it. Make sure the power to the circuit is switched off before taking out the screws that attach the RCD to the fuse box.

Replacing an RCD in a fusebox

To replace an RCD, you will first need to remove it using the steps described above. Once the RCD is removed, another can be put in place by completing the removal steps in reverse. However, a new RCD will also need to undergo various tests. While replacing an RCD can be done DIY, unless you are well-studied and highly competent in the area, you should hire an electrician. This is because there are multiple aspects to correctly replacing an RCD. 

The cost of replacing an RCD can range between between £30 and £70 including both installation and supply costs. An RCD itself will likely cost between £10 and £40.

How to prevent an RCD from tripping?

To prevent RCD trips, you should conduct regular appliance maintenance on your RCD, keeping it free from dust and damage. Checking that appliances are rated for the correct mains voltage can help determine if the appliance is faulty.

It’s also worth checking that your equipment has a current rating that is appropriate for the amount of power being drawn from it.

To reduce the risk of an RCD tripping due to electric moisture, ensure that electrical wiring is adequately ventilated, ensuring that there is no moisture present in sockets or electrical boxes. The power must be turned off before inspecting sockets/boxes. Installing a device to control humidity levels, ventilation fans and good sockets will keep you safe at home.

Consequences of not fixing an RCD

If your RCD keeps tripping, it’s important that you pay close attention to it as it can otherwise lead to many hazards such as the risk of fire and electrocution. An RCD which is continually tripping may already be faulty or low-quality to begin with but either way repeated tripping can cause the RCD to deteriorate over time.

Depending on the model, RCDs may be used to protect against electrical fires. A faulty or broken RCD can make a home more vulnerable to fire and lead to unnecessary and dangerous conditions.

Electrical Malfunctions

If an RCD is unable to trip, it may become damaged over time, leading to electrical issues. Damaged circuits can be a fire hazard, increasing the risk of electrocution, damage to the appliances and wear and tear on the wiring.

You could be putting yourself and your family at risk if you have an electric issue, but don’t realise. A non-functioning or faulty appliance is not always obvious, which means you could become accident-prone with no RCD protection in place.

Final thoughts

From the above discussion, it can be understood that it’s important that you continuously watch if the RCD is in a good condition. Additionally, you would need to ensure that they are well maintained so you can prevent any hazardous and harmful risks such as fire and electrocution. You would also need to ensure that your property follows the local regulations.

If all of this seems overwhelming to you, you can always contact your local electrician to help fix any issues with an RCD that keeps tripping. 

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Nuisance RCD tripping – What causes it and how do I fix it?

Household electrical problems can be a major annoyance, but some pose an infinitely greater inconvenience than others. Perhaps the most common problem fault experienced by every homeowner is a tripped RCD.

We’ve all been there – we’ve just put the kettle on for a cup of tea before bed and suddenly the power snaps and we’re forced to shuffle around in the dark with our smartphones to find the RCD box (and it’s rarely in the most convenient place).

But if your RCD is tripping every couple of days (or even daily) and it’s become a genuine nuisance in your daily life, is there anything you can do to help the situation before calling someone in yet again? Let’s start with the basics.

Why is my RCD tripping?

Your RCD (residual current device) serves as your major protection against electric shock which is why it is now mandatory for all homes and businesses to have one installed. When your RCD trips what it thinks it’s doing is actually saving your life because it’s detected an electrical fault that could prove deadly if the circuit is not closed off completely.

Occasionally, an RCD can trip even when there is no fault to speak of (if there is a great surge in power, for example) but if it’s happening regularly then it’s most likely due to one of three causes:

Faulty equipment – As electrical equipment ages, it can become more unstable, particularly when used in tandem with other devices. If your RCD is constantly tripping when you use a specific appliance (whether it’s your washing machine, your toaster, or your blender) then it is most likely to be a fault with the equipment. So, rather than calling out an electrical engineer , simply replace the faulty item or get it fixed.

Bad wiring – This one is a lot more concerning. If you can’t see the RCD tripping being related to any specific appliance then it might be a problem with your wiring that needs some urgent attention.

If the wiring in your walls is faulty or frayed and has lost its insulation then it can cause a short circuit, resulting in an electric shock or even an electrical fire if there is no RCD installed to automatically break the circuit. If you suspect bad wiring in your property then you must immediately get in touch with your local electrical services provider and call out an electrician.

Ground fault – This refers to your RCD tripping to prevent an electrical current from making a connection with a grounded surface, which can prove fatal. This is in situations such as if a hairdryer falls into the bathtub, somebody puts a knife in the toaster, or somebody drills through a wall into active wiring.

How to fix nuisance trips?

If none of the above sounds like they apply to you, then you could have a nuisance trip problem. The problem with these so-called ‘ nuisance RCD trips ’ is that the cause can be quite difficult to figure out. That’s why we would always recommend calling out an electrician.

However, if it is something that happens constantly, even after the electrician has been out and given you the all-clear, then a good quality leakage clamp meter and some background knowledge can save a lot of time and frustration, not to mention your wallet.

Modern appliances and plug-in power supplies, by the nature of their design, generate low levels of leakage current, even when there’s no fault. This becomes a problem when there are several appliances connected to the same circuit and their leakage currents combined exceed the trip threshold of the RCD protecting the circuit. This causes the power to cut out unexpectedly, even when there is no actual problem to speak of.

To reduce nuisance RCD tripping that’s a result of cumulative leakage from appliances, the 18th Edition Wiring Regulations Guide includes specific maximum values for protective earth currents (Regulation 531.3.2). According to the guide: “The accumulation of circuit protector currents/earth leakage currents that are present during normal operating conditions shall not be more than 30% of the rated residual operating current of the RCD.”

This means that, for example, a current of just 30% of the residual operating current can cause a trip and when you consider the average operating current is around 30mA, that’s just around 9mA that can set it off, so to speak. Eve a hoe computer can generate a leakage current of up to around 3mA on its lonesome.

The only way to definitively ensure nuisance trips cease completely is to measure the leakage flowing using a leakage clamp metre for reliable results.

However, please be advised that when working on any electrical system, you must have access to the distribution board and the electricity must be switched off at all times.

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What To Do If: Your Fuse Keeps Tripping

Electricity is one of the basic essentials in our homes, coming before almost anything else. If a fuse goes, it can be frustrating, but it helps to know what to do and when to call an electrician.

Causes of tripped or blown fuses

Finding out the cause of a tripped or blown fuse usually involves a process of elimination and a little patience. Most common causes are:

• Too many appliances plugged in
• A faulty appliance
• An appliance that is not maintained or is used inappropriately (e.g. overfilled kettle)
• Faulty immersion heaters
• Blown lightbulb
• Worn cooker rings.

If a fuse goes…

If a fuse goes, head straight to your fuse box, which is near your meter. Hopefully, you will know where it is and how to access it already. Your fuse box will have either fuses or trip switches. If a fuse “blows” then you will have to replace it in order to regain power. Trip switches are a more modern alternative to fuses. Rather than the fuse physically breaking, the switch is tripped and the power circuit goes from “on” to “off”.

Reset the trip switch

If a trip switch has gone, you should easily be able to see which one is the problem as the lever will be in the down position (usually showing “off” in red). Simply push the switch back up, to show “on” in green. If the switch flips down immediately, that is a sign that you have a faulty appliance plugged in somewhere. This is where the fun starts!

Finding a faulty appliance

It is most likely that only one circuit has tripped.

• Make a note of the appliances that aren’t working and unplug each one. If you have an immersion heater, switch it off.
• Once everything is unplugged, flip the trip switch to ON. It should stay on this time.
• Now go around the house and plug in each item that you have unplugged.
• Keep plugging appliances in until the fuse trips again; you have identified your culprit!
• Keep the faulty appliance unplugged (you can switch the trip back on now) and take it to a nearby electrical specialist for repair.

If the faulty item has a plug, it is worth changing the fuse in the plug before you take the appliance to be repaired. Replacing a fuse is not dissimilar to changing a battery. Unscrew the cover and look at the fuse in the plug already, or check the rating on the plug to find out what fuse you need. Once you know what fuse to use, it is a case of removing the old fuse, and popping a new one in.

While it is fine to attempt to do a range of home repairs yourself, when it comes to electrical faults, it is best left to the professionals. If you need to find an electrician, check out Trust A Trader’s directory of local trusted electricians . For more tips and advice, follow us on Facebook or Twitter .

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• Electrics UK

RCD Trip switch too sensitive

• Thread starter Cornish Maid
• Start date 30 Apr 2011

ericmark said: The trips do come with variable sensitivity and time delays but to protect people it has to be 30mA @ 40ms so that option is not open to you. Click to expand...

Spark123 said: ericmark said: The trips do come with variable sensitivity and time delays but to protect people it has to be 30mA @ 40ms so that option is not open to you. Click to expand...

SwindonSpark

I will try to get a photo up later, but for the meantime, details from the trip unit are: Crabtree 854293 RCCB 80A 30mA List No: 380/030 If that means anything to anyone. Click to expand...

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• Fixing a Sensitive Arc-Fault Circuit Breaker

Posted on Wednesday, March 13th, 2019 at 5:34 pm

Causes for the electrical interruption may include:

• An overload–when electrical usage would have begun to overheat a circuit’s wires.
• A short circuit–very high current resulting from a fault on the circuit.
• An overheating breaker– when the breaker itself has poor contacts or connections.
• A ground-fault–smaller leakage off of the intended circuit. In this I include shock hazards, neutral to ground faults, and the differing current on the neutral wire when it is being shared by another circuit.
• An arc-fault–sparking happening on the circuit or its lights or appliances.

Most of the time you can find the cause and correct the problem without having to call an electrician.

Tips for troubleshooting an arc-fault interrupter

• Don’t confuse AFCIs with ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs), which are designed to protect against shocks (not arcs). To tell whether immediate tripping is from a ground-fault versus a short circuit, you might have to temporarily replace the AFCI breaker with a standard breaker (putting the solid white wire from the AFCI’s terminal into the panel’s neutral/ground bar). If the standard breaker holds, then the problem is more likely to be a ground-fault than an arc-fault.
• In the case of an arc-fault device introduced into an existing home, a common cause of tripping will be that the neutral of the circuit is mixed somewhere with the neutral of another circuit. The two common places this mixing of neutrals would occur are at a 2-gang or 3-gang switch box where both circuits are present, or in a 3-way switch system where the neutral for the light(s) has been borrowed (improperly) from the other circuit.
• As long as you do not leave it in place beyond your troubleshooting, a standard breaker could be put in the panel in place of the AFCI. You might then be able to hear, see, or smell signs of heat or arcing. Blinking lights on the circuit would give additional clues.
• In most homes (most don’t have AFCIs), when arcing at connection points has been happening for a while, it commonly shows itself as a partial outage of the circuit, from the arcing point on.
• Some appliance models have been known to trip an AFCI by their sensitivity to either arcing (in flat-screen TVs, vacuums, other appliances with motors) or to ground-faults (in treadmill, fluorescent lights).
• If this doesn’t solve the problem, hire an electrician to install a new arc-fault breaker in the electrical panel. If the nuisance tripping stops, then the old arc-fault breaker was probably defective.
• If the arc-fault breaker still trips, the electrician then needs to track down the cause by going into each switch, receptacle and light box to look for a wiring problem. Wires are often folded (jammed) into boxes quickly, and if the wrong two wires make contact, they can trip an AFCI.

According to 2014 code, anyone, including homeowners, replacing a receptacle in most rooms of a house will be required to make it arc-fault protected.

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If your arc-fault circuit interruption is not responding to your troubleshooting efforts and it’s time to call an electrician, contact Roberts Electric . Our residential team is skilled at troubleshooting and fixing electrical problems.

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5 Reasons Your Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter Outlets Keeps Tripping

Ground-fault circuit interrupters are designed for your safety. Circuit interrupters, or "trips" as they are commonly referred to, are intended to reduce the risk of fire or electrocution. If they trip, it's an indication there is a problem and you'll need an electrician you can trust.

What Causes Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter To Trip?

The top five reasons your GFCI outlet keeps tripping are ground-fault occurrences, moisture in the receptacle box, an overloaded circuit, an electrical fault, and a faulty GFCI outlet. We'll cover each of these issues, including causes and solutions.

1. Ground-Fault Occurrence

Ground faults occur when the hot wire or live wire comes into contact with the ground wire or the grounded area of an appliance. Usually, GFCIs function by detecting when the current is flowing along an unintended path (e.g., through water or a person).

The instant the GFCI detects there is even the slightest of current leakage as low as 0.005 amps, it trips right away.

How do you determine if the current is leaking? Unplug everything on that circuit and make sure all the switches are off. Check for any wear that may have occurred to the equipment. Any slight damage means the electrical part is no longer protected from contact.

2. Moisture in the Receptacle Box

The accumulation of moisture is another major cause of GFCI tripping. Outdoor GFCI outlets are the most vulnerable, and rain is the most common culprit. However, due to the tropical climate of Florida, high humidity can also cause moisture buildup and make it harder for any water trapped in a receptacle box to evaporate.

Start your search by inspecting the receptacle box. Be sure to turn off the breaker before opening the box containing the receptacle. The box must be dry before you attempt to reset the GFCI. It is possible to speed up this drying process using a simple tool such as a blow dryer, but that part is best left to a professional.

If the installation is outdoors or located in high humidity areas, such as the bathroom or kitchen, make sure the box is weatherproof and locked even when the receptor is in use. The presence of moisture can expose you to the risk of accidental electric shock.

3. Overloaded Circuit

Circuit overload occurs when more amperage flows through an electric wire or circuit than it can handle. This may happen if you connect malfunctioning or defective appliances. Loose, corroded wires or connections may also be to blame. Once the GFCI outlet senses an overload, it trips or "breaks" the circuit.

If you want to determine if overloading is really the problem, follow these steps in order.

• Unplug all the appliances connected to the circuit in question
• Reset the circuit on your fuse box
• Wait several minutes
• Plug an appliance back in and turn it on
• Check to see that your circuit has not tripped
• Plug in the next appliance, turn it on, check the breaker, and so on

You may find you'll need to replace the items causing the problem.

If the problem keeps reoccurring, you may need a new dedicated circuit and outlet that can handle the amperage required by the appliances.

4. Electrical Fault

If your GFCI outlet trips consistently, it could be an electric fault resulting from faulty structural wiring. An electrical outlet connected to the same circuit could also be the source of the problem, especially if it was not part of the original wiring of your home. In the case of an electrical fault, you will need a professional electrician to fix the problem.

5. Faulty GFCI Outlet

If you've tried all else and the GFCI outlet reset doesn't solve the problem, that means the outlet itself is defective. GFCI outlets have highly responsive internal circuitry to detect whenever there's a flaw in the electric system. With time, the sensitive circuitry wears out, rendering the outlet dysfunctional. In this case, the outlet will need repairing or even replacing and should be done by a qualified electrician.

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MK RCDs, are they 'over' sensitive, why do they trip? :-(

Discussion in ' Electricians' Talk ' started by always_learning , Oct 26, 2005 .

always_learning New Member

Hello, please could some one shed some light on this for me? MK 5780s 80A/30mA on split CU, keeps tripping, maybe once a week, for no apparent reason? There is nothing being turned on/off when it trips.... This is the second one I have had fitted, the last sparks replaced it, saying it was faulty. I find it hard to beleive that this one is u/s too...? Question. What exactly do these RCDs 'sense' that makes them trip? Are MK known to be more 'sensitive' than others...? Thanks in advance......  

sinewave Screwfix Select

Question. What exactly do these RCDs 'sense' that makes them trip? Are MK known to be more 'sensitive' than others...? Thanks in advance...... Exactly the same as any other RCD senses! An imbalance in the phase & neutral lines. Being as your now on your second RCD this would now point to a intermitent fault in the wiring rather than a RCD fault. Is there an Immersion Heater on a timer in the installation? These are always a good place to start on 'mystery trips' when 'nothings being used'!  

Rabbit Rabbit New Member

Having fitted dozens of MK Sentry based products plus MCB's and RCD's I have only had problems with ONE new MCB (32A B was u/s). So I dont think there are 'over sensitive'. RCD's (Residual Current Detectors) sense the differential current running within the phase and neutrals relative to cpc and is this deviates by a nominal amount then it trips (where nominal amount is 30mA, 100mA etc.) Test the RCD (0.5X, 1X and 5X and a ramp test) and the results are.....(over to you)  

Sinewave, wow, that was quick... No..., no immersions, no timers, all I could think of was the fridge / freezer kicking in... ? just out of interest, what does cpc stand for...? Thanks  

chelski spark New Member

It may be a good idea if you have all your appliances P A Tested.  

Thanks, but 'PA' testing, what is that? Apart from a fridge / freezer, there was nothing else plugged in, apart from a PC.....? I remember reading something about LCD screens leaking to earth, is that correct?  

Excuse me for asking but how do you now that nothing is being turned on and off? As in fridges, freezer, boilers etc all turn themselves 'on and off' so you cant know for sure. My money is on a a failing appliance and one with a heating element(s) within it. No way is it the RCD.  

Just read you comment about there 'only' being a PC. Ageing PC's that use switch mode PSU's are a prime source of such tripping....the list in endless m8. Remove them one by one until RCD trips no more then start reconnecting to ascertain - lots of coffee and an all day job.  

Thanks, but 'PA' testing, what is that ? Apart from a fridge / freezer, there was nothing else plugged in, apart from a PC.....? I remember reading something about LCD screens leaking to earth, is that correct? P A Testing = portable appliance testing  

Sparky Dan New Member

When you have time, turn absolutely everything off and then back on one at a time. You may be lucky and find the fault but note that it may be a number of leaking appliances. Failing this you could then IR test the cabling, It could be heat or rodent damage.  

sparkin! New Member

Sinewave, wow, that was quick... No..., no immersions, no timers, all I could think of was the fridge / freezer kicking in... ? just out of interest, what does cpc stand for...? Thanks REMEMBER he is travelling at 50 cycles per/second!lol  

.... Not a problem. I was in the kitchen when the RCD tripped, gas cooker, no TV, no immersion, no radio, day time, no lights on, no washing m/c on, nothing doing in the house, apart from the fridge/freezer, and the pc in the lounge... I agree, it is very unlikely to be the RCD, but as the electrician seems keen to blame the RCD and charge for a new one, I am trying to find the 'real' cause of the problem, or at least eliminate some red herrings..... thanks  

Re: MK RCDs, are they 'over' sensitive, why do they trip? Posted: Oct 26, 2005 8:47 PM Reply Having fitted dozens of MK Sentry based products plus MCB's and RCD's I have only had problems with ONE new MCB (32A B was u/s). So I dont think there are 'over sensitive'. RCD's (Residual Current Detectors) sense the differential current running within the phase and neutrals relative to cpc and is this deviates by a nominal amount then it trips (where nominal amount is 30mA, 100mA etc.) Test the RCD (0.5X, 1X and 5X and a ramp test) and the results are.....(over to you) WHAT IF no access to this equipment? WHAT, would you do MR.CARROT!  

Rabbit_rabbit, with regard to your comment about the PC psu, i understand that they can 'leak', if that is the correct term, to earth? Is there a way round this, or is it new PSU time...? thanks for your help btw  

2wires2many New Member

Water in the base of a cordless kettle is always a favourite on RCD intermittent faults. Kettle is off but base is usually switched on at the socket all the time. I have known this happen more than once, so its well worth checking out. Regards SMc  

Stupid comment. And so ends another sensible thread.....I can see Scroofix closing this forum down due to lack of interest...  

I thought it was a sensible suggestion  

OK,rr get the lettuce out and chill!  

2wires, now that idea sounds plausible, to me anyway... I will have a look to see if the kettle base was plugged in... What i was trying to discover by my original post is: what it is that the (any brand) RCDs detect, so that i can track down the fault (intermittent)....? I have tried the unplug everything and plug everything in, appliance by appliance route, didn't do anything! thanks  

Interesting missing posts hey - clearly Admin are hot tonight.... Many PC's use switch mode PSU's and these tend to have a virtual earth - back-to-back capacitors between phase and neutral the ecentre being conecetd to true earth (cpc). High currents can flow into this virtual earth and hence to the cpc and this in turn can cause imbalances in phase and neutral currents as perceived by the RCD and so it trips. This current is usually quite low for a single PC (less that RCD trip current) but a failing switch mode may be the cause. Having said all that my money is on a freezer, a fridge, an oven, heatre of some kind...  

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5 Common Reasons For A Safety Trip Switch Going Off

Posted on December 5, 2019

As technology progresses, so do the amount of personal appliances that we have within our houses. For example, if you closely look around your home, you will notice that you have a lot more home appliances now than what you used to have a 5 years ago. From  The Local Electrician’s  professional experience, we are going to take a punt that you also haven’t made any changes to your fuse box to ensure that it can handle this increased capacity. As a result of this increased capacity, the  trip switch  will go off and may cause a blown fuse. But what really causes this.

Trip switches are typically caused by faulty household appliances that are leaking extra electrical current. This is what trips a safety switch as it has picked up this extra electrical flow. To detect which one of your appliances is causing the trip switch, disconnect all your appliances, reset your safety switch and reset each appliance one by one.

What Trips My Safety Switch?

Before we go into the causes, it is important to keep in mind that a trip switch is a safety measure that is protecting you and your family. So, when your trip switch goes off, you will need to immediately determine what has caused it to. If there is a serious electrical hazard or a damaged   safety switch   due to a blown fuse, you should contact a local  emergency electrician   within your area.

1. Faulty Electrical Appliances

Damaged, old or faulty electrical appliances can be leaking extra electrical currents. To deal with this excess flow, the trip switch goes off. In case you suspect that this may be the problem, the first thing that you should do is to unplug all your appliances and then reset the switch. As soon as you do this, you should reconnect each appliance one at a time to try to find out the one that is causing the problems. From our daily encounters, the most common culprits for trip switches include: toasters, kettles, dishwashers, washing machines and the biggest of them all – fridges. A tip is to turn on a radio to a loud station, and then periodically work through your appliances to determine which one is faulty

Please be aware, that some of the more modern safety switches only trip to a medium position and need to be turned all the way to ‘off’ for them to be reset.

2. Damaged Wiring

It is natural that electrical wiring as well as its insulation will eventually become worn out and damaged over time. Again, the main purpose for the trip switch to go off is to protect you.

In this case, we strongly advise you to call an emergency electrician since these issues can potentially cause serious harm to you and your family if left unattended.

3. Poor Weather

If your area was recently affected by lightning and heavy rain, this may be the reason as to why your trip switch has been triggered. In the case of a storm, you will need to wait until it passes and then reset it. If there is heavy rain, in some instances, you may need to wait for the power points and terminals to be dry as it would be extremely dangerous to reset the fuse box in wet conditions.

4. Nuisance Tripping

As we have already mentioned, we have a lot more electrical appliances at home than what we used to have. The build-up of these home appliances will eventually cause repeated safety switch trips and overload the circuit. This can even create a fuse to blow and potential short-circuiting.

When you have too many electrical appliances running, you will most likely be nearing your limit. And it only takes one of those appliances to offload a little extra current to make your trip switch go off. One of the things that you should consider doing is disconnecting and possibly removing some of the appliances that you don’t need. This should prevent further trip switches from going off. If you have already reset the safety switch and it flips again. Then remove the last appliance that you have recently used by disconnecting it from the powerpoint as it may be the cause.

However, in case this doesn’t stop it, you should call an emergency electrician so they can take a look and discover where the problem is. You may potentially need a  Electrical Switchboard  and fuse box upgrade to resolve this problem

5. Defective Switches

Another reason that can lead to a trip switch  going off is a defective safety switch. This occurs when the worn out or broken switch doesn’t go off as it should to protect you because of a serious electrical fault. It is important that you regularly check your switches to ensure that they are working well. If you believe that this is the case for your fuse box, then this will immediately need to be replaced by an emergency electrician.

How Often Should I Test My Safety Switch

You should test your safety switch at minimum of once every 3-6 months.

How Do I Locate My Safety Switch & Switchboard?

To locate and reset your safety switch, first unplug all appliances and simply go to your main switchboard and look for the electrical component that says ‘main switch’. If you already have had a trip switch, simply flick your switch from “off” to “on”. You can plug your appliances one by one to see which one is faulty.

If you are living in an apartment complex, it is highly likely that you switchboard will be locked. If you are leasing and do not have keys to your switchboard, your real estate agent will be able to provide you with one. Alternatively, you can reach out to your neighbours and ask for permission to borrow their keys.

How Do I Test my Safety Switch?

Follow this step-by-step checklist, the next time you wish to test your safety switches

• Ensure everyone in your home knows you are testing your safety switches
• Go to your switchboard
• Identify your safety switches and press the “t or test button”
• This will automatically trip the switch to the off position and you will hear a crunching sound
• Check to see if all your appliances are turned off
• If all appliances are turned off, reset your safety switch by flicking the button to on position  and see if it stays there
• If during the test your switch did not turn off the power or make a crunching sound this is a sign to replace your switch and you will need to contact an electrician
• Consider installing circuit breaker or RCD switches on each circuit to prevent future trip switches.

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If you are within Sydney and have repeated trip switch or have a damaged safety switch due to a blown fuse… Then  contact  The Local Electrician today . We are a team of 24 hr emergency electricians that have been serving every Sydney suburb for over 25 years with switchboard upgrades and other trip switch issues!

We are also a team of fully vetted and accredited level 2 electricians which enables us to directly access Ausgrid and Endeavour Australia’s power lines. A  Level 2 electrician  is required when you receive an  electrical defect notice  due to your electricity not meeting the minimum safety standards for serious electrical issues. A blown fuse is not one of these.

Contact us today on  0439 823 190   or alternatively you can  email us  for immediate  trip switch  assistance. We guarantee on-time service, otherwise we will work for free. We also offer a free safety inspection on all jobs!

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Why does my fuse box keep tripping?

• 16th Jun 2022

3rd September 2019

16th June 2022

A tripped fuse box can occur at the most inconvenient moments. Fuses are a safety measure used in electric circuits. If there’s an electrical fault or excessive current flow, the fuse will break the circuit, causing your power to go out. You’ll find fuses located in the fuse box and inside electrical appliances or their plugs.

Fortunately, it’s usually pretty easy to identify the root of a tripped fuse and reset a trip switch yourself. Don’t be left in the dark! Follow our helpful guide and find all you need to know about how to identify and fix fuse box-related issues.

How does a trip switch fuse box work?

Modern fuse boxes consist of trip switches that turn off a home’s electricity as a failsafe. This occurs when there’s an electrical fault or too much power flows through a circuit.

There are two types of fuse boxes – modern trip switch fuse boxes and traditional fuse boxes, which are more common in older homes. These have fuse wires that need replacing when they break. Today, in most homes, trip switch fuse boxes don’t use traditional fuses. Instead, they use safety switches like circuit breakers or RCDs (residual current devices).

Looking to learn more about fuse boxes? Find out more with our fuse box guide .

Where can I find my fuse box?

You’ll usually find your fuse box in a utility room, porch, garage or cupboard under the stairs. Essentially, it should be in an accessible location so that if your lights go out, you can access it safely.

Why has my fuse box tripped?

Are your sockets not working? Have your lights gone out? You’ve likely tripped a fuse switch. The easiest way to tell is by checking your fuse box to see if any electric breaker switches have flipped downwards. If they have, you’ve either overloaded a circuit with too many electrical appliances, or one of those electrical appliances is faulty. Before you flip the switch and turn your power back on, you must work out what’s causing the problem.

Overloaded Circuit

Electrical circuits can only handle a certain amount of electricity. If you’re boiling your kettle, using your toaster, charging your phone, watching TV and running your dishwasher all on one circuit, you could overload it. This causes the fuse switch to blow, resulting in a tripped fuse.

Extension leads are often the source of the problem. Even though they have multiple sockets, you shouldn’t use them all at once. Doing so puts excessive pressure on a circuit and may be why your electricity keeps tripping.

Faulty Electrical Appliance

A faulty electrical appliance can force a tripped fuse. There might be a problem with the wiring or the appliance may be old and worn out. Can’t work out which appliance is the culprit? Look at your fuse box – the switches might be labelled, helping you identify the location of the faulty circuit. When you know the location, try to remember which device you plugged in last – this is often the source.

If your box isn’t labelled or you can’t narrow down the problem, there’s only one solution. Unplug every device in your home, reset the switch (more on this below) and plug them back in, one at a time. It’s time-consuming, but should help you identify the problem.

Here’s a tip: the cause will likely be the last appliance or light fixture you used. Trip switches are sensitive, so they’ll kick into action as soon as there’s an issue.

How to fix a tripped fuse box

Once you’ve identified the cause, you can reset the fuse box. Do not use any faulty appliances until you’ve checked them. Unless you know what you’re doing, it’s best not to carry out electrical repairs yourself. Instead, get in touch with a qualified electrician. Or, if an appliance is new and under warranty you can return it. With proof of purchase, you should be able to get a refund or a replacement.

Reset your fuse switch

Today, most homes have trip switch fuse boxes installed with electrical fuse breakers. These switches flip down when they need to trip the electrics.

• They’re straightforward to reset – all you need to do is switch them back into the ‘on’ position.
• If you have attempted to reset your fuse switch, but it keeps tripping, there’s likely a problem with one of your appliances or sockets.
• If none of your electric trip switches have moved, one of the RCD switches has probably tripped. Make sure they’re turned on too.

Resetting older fuse boxes

Older properties may still feature a traditional fuse box containing fuse sockets. Each fuse socket contains a piece of wire that will physically snap or burn to break a circuit. Replacing fuse wire is relatively straightforward. Find out how to replace a blown fuse .

What if my fuse box keeps tripping?

If you can’t work out why your fuse switches keep tripping, there could be a problem with the fuse box’s wiring. Faulty electrics can be dangerous, and even with precautionary measures like RCD switches in place, it’s not worth risking your safety. Rather than looking into the problem yourself, we recommend getting in touch with a qualified electrician. They will know what they’re looking for and can fix the problem on your behalf – swiftly and safely.

Rather leave it to the experts? Fuse box tripped and unsure how to fix it? You’ll benefit from taking out comprehensive home cover. Hometree offers home care plans you can trust, with quick and convenient call-outs, a 24/7 UK helpline, and no caps on claims. What’s more, if you don’t claim, your price will always stay the same!

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Why does my GFI outlet keep tripping?

GFCIs and False Tripping

At SESCOS, we know that a small electrical problem can become a big headache if it isn’t fixed correctly, and in this post, we’ll take a look at a common electrical problem to discover why your GFCI keeps tripping and what you can do about it.

What is it?

The GFCI ( ground fault circuit interrupter ) is there to protect you. When it senses something blocking the electrical current or a leak in the current, it shuts off the electricity. This is a safety feature. Because the GFCI can detect the tiniest leaks, it shuts off the power to prevent you from getting a nasty shock when you plug something into an outlet.

But sometimes, it trips for no reason, in what electricians call “false tripping” or “phantom tripping.” Why does this happen?

1. You’re Wearing it Out

• The wiring is old and wearing out.
• You’re overloading the current.
• Multiple devices on the same GFCI are causing it to trip.

The solution? Have a SESCOS electrician replace the GFCI, outlet, and wiring, and install new ones if necessary.

2. It’s Too Sensitive

A sensitive person is one thing, but an overly sensitive GFCI can become a phantom tripper. GFCIs are designed to detect tiny fluctuations in current. Some motors naturally change their current levels and the change might cause the GFCI to overreact.

The GFCI might also be sensitive to moisture , and might false trip when it rains or in high-humidity areas.

The solution? A SESCOS electrician can recommend and install a different type of GFCI better suited to that particular appliance or motor. If the GFCI is for an outside switch, make sure it has wiring suitable for outside use and a moisture cover.

3. An Electrical Malfunction

If everything that you plug into the GFCI causes it to trip, you have an electrical malfunction and definitely, need to call an electrician. A SESCOS technician will test the electrical supply and determine if there is a ground fault. Avoid plugging anything in until you call for expert advice.

4. Appliance Overload

GFCIs that are connected to appliances may start to get overloaded over time. As the appliance ages and has to work harder, the GFCI might start picking up excess current and tripping more often.

This is especially true of GFCIs that have to contend with many appliances in the same room, for instance, the kitchen, bathroom or garage.

The solution? Replace older, worn-out appliances and have a SESCOS electrician install new circuit breakers in those areas.

5. Get Audible Alerts

We have added a new post about Audible Alert GFCI outlets – read more about the numerous benefits of upgrading your ground fault circuit interrupter outlets.  For those in the Northern Virginia region – feel free to contact us to schedule a comprehensive electrical assessment and upgrade meeting.

Don’t Trip

There are several reasons why a GFCI might keep tripping. In most cases, it’s not an electrical emergency but it is something that could keep creeping up on you until it’s a big problem. Avoid that by calling your local electricians at SESCOS today. We’ll stop the tripping and get you switched back on in no time. Contact us to schedule a home electrical safety inspection and outlet upgrade.

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Here's Why Your Safety Switch Keeps Tripping

A safety switch that keeps tripping can be frustrating, but it’s effectively doing exactly what it’s supposed to. A safety switch is in your meter box to protect people from electrical shock. If it trips, it has detected a fault somewhere in your home.

You can easily reset the switch and get on with things. But if your safety switch continues to trip over and over, then there’s an underlying issue you need to address to ensure a safe household for everyone. Here’s what you need to know about problematic safety switch trips:

What is a Safety Switch?

An RCD safety switch (residual current device) is a crucial component of every switchboard and meter box that shuts off the power supply to shield people from electrical shock. For example, a faulty appliance or damaged wiring can leak current or send a surge through your electrical work, posing a threat to occupants of the premises.

A safety switch automatically detects these issues, and at 30mA, it shuts off the power within 0.03 seconds (30 milliseconds) before the current can shock people or cause a fire. In short, a safety switch protects people from a raft of electrical hazards.

A safety switch continuously measures the current ‘tripping’ at the sign of irregularities. The safety switches installed come in many shapes and sizes, with all leading electrical brands producing Type 2 switches that are suitable for residential purposes.

Are Safety Switches Compulsory?

In short, yes. Safety switches are compulsory for new homes and rental properties, and require installation before any property sale. The rules differ slightly from state to state, but it’s generally accepted that the more, the better. One safety switch per circuit can help ensure that one faulty appliance doesn’t cause a blackout across the home. So, one safety switch for the lighting, one for the power points, one for large appliances, one for pool equipment, air conditioning, etc.

If a safety switch keeps tripping, you may need to replace it. But it’s far more likely that the switch is working correctly and is responding to reoccurring faults in your electrical systems. So what are the reasons behind a constantly tripping safety switch? Let’s find out!

5 Common Causes of Tripping Safety Switches

Safety switches are designed to trip. If a safety switch keeps tripping, it’s likely just doing its job, and the problem lies elsewhere. The good news is you can do some basic fault finding before deciding it’s time to call in a licenced electrician for RCD safety switches or electrical repairs. Here are the common culprits and advice for a safety switch tripping:

1. A Faulty Appliance

A damaged or faulty appliance can leak electrical current increasing over 30mA, causing the switch to trip. It is pretty easy to detect which appliances are tripping your safety switch. First, unplug all the devices from their power points, then test each one by one until the safety switch trips. Then remove the culprit from use.

2. Nuisance Tripping

Nuisance tripping occurs when several appliances connected to the same electrical circuits generate low levels of current leaking and, when combined, exceed the trip threshold of the RCD safety switch. This tends to occur more when multiple appliances are heating simultaneously – microwave, clothes dryer, kettle – all on the same electrical circuit.

To minimise the risk of danger, you can limit the number of appliances plugged in at one time. Alternatively, upgrading your meter box with additional circuits provides a home with a greater capacity to run appliances simultaneously. Have a licensed electrician take care of the upgrade and fit a safety switch on each circuit so if one goes out, it won’t send the whole house back to the Middle Ages.

3. Lightning Strike

During electrical storms, there’s potential for lighting to strike the home or nearby power lines and overload your electrical system. Hopefully, the safety switch should trip in time to save the day from electrical faults. Just make sure you wait for the storm to pass before resetting the switch.

There’s a commonly held belief that power boards with built-in surge protectors protect TVs, washing machines and a wide range of appliances from damage. This is untrue. A direct lightning strike can still reach an appliance, causing damage. The safety mechanism in power boards can prevent damage from surges. However, in the event of a storm, remove the plug from each power point to reduce the likelihood of faulty appliances or overloaded power sockets.

4. Faulty Wiring

One of the most significant fire risks in your home is faulty wiring. A combination of wear and tear, rain damage, vermin and careless home renovations can all see wiring fray or come loose. A working safety switch should trip before the damaged electrical wiring can start a fire, but it doesn’t hurt to be on notice for the tell-tale signs.

Flickering lights, buzzing sounds, warm to touch spots and burning smells are all taken as a good indicator that your wiring is not working correctly. As a precaution, shut off the whole electricity supply at the fuse box and call a professional within the electrical industry for a wiring upgrade.

5. Faulty Safety Switch

If none of the above factors applies, and the safety switch stays off, the fault may lie with the RCD itself. This is far less likely than the other causes, but there is always the potential for electrical components to fail or to have not been installed correctly.

Ensure a qualified electrical contractor repairs every wiring issue and safety switch installation. As a result, electrical shock risks will be reduced significantly, and the home’s electrical safety dramatically increases.

How to Test a Safety Switch

Testing a safety switch is easy, and electricians recommend testing each one every three months. Here’s what to do:

• Firstly, let everyone in your household know that you will test the switches because this should shut off all power within the home.
• Next, go to the meter box, locate the safety switches and press the ‘T’ or ‘Test’ button on each.
• If each switch is working correctly, everything will be shut off. This includes the lights, power point circuit and appliances.
• Check around the home to make sure you’ve switched everything off. If so, then congratulations, your switches are functioning correctly.
• If the power has not been cut to the connected circuit, your home is not protected. Therefore, it’s time to call in an electrician. They can replace a faulty safety switch with ease. Your on-site expert can also test and investigate for the source of the fault.

After testing, wait two to three minutes before resetting to avoid possible appliance damage.

Safety Switch vs Circuit Breaker – What’s the Difference?

Safety switches and circuit breakers are two prominent features of your meter box that people often mistake for one another, despite having different functions.

As previously mentioned, the safety switch is mandatory for all new systems as it helps protect occupants from electric shock. Circuit breakers protect the wiring and circuitry from surges so they don’t overheat and start electrical fires.

Both are essential, but one protects people while the other protects your electrical system itself.

By using the above information, you’re well on your way to protecting all the appliances and people within your home from electrical hazards.

Should you require emergency repairs or scheduled maintenance, consider making Metropolitan your port of call. We’re your local electrician group providing a wide range of electrical services and your safety is our top priority.

Government of South Australia Work Safe Queensland

Published: 2020-03-30

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• 5 Reasons Why Safety Switches Trip/Go Off
• Uncategorized

Safety switches are devices that monitor the movement of current through electrical wiring and disconnect the supply of electricity upon detecting differences or imbalances. They react to even the tiniest change within a fraction of a second, cutting off the power if there’s a leak of electricity to ground, a power board is overloaded, etc.

Unlike surge protectors and circuit breakers (which protect electrical appliances), these devices are designed to shield people from electrocution and fire. Single-phase safety switches and three-phase safety switches find many applications in the electrical industry, especially for residential, business, and commercial switchboards.

What Causes Safety Switches to Keep Going Off?

If the amount of current flowing in matches the current flowing out, safety switches remain on and power supply is uninterrupted. If they keep tripping or going off, however, check for these 5 main culprits:

Faulty/Damaged Appliances

Damaged wiring, nuisance tripping, bad weather, defective switches, how to test your safety switch.

How Often Should Safety Switches Be Tested?

Ideally, it’s a good idea to test safety switches once a month. However, since you only see them when you examine the switchboard, this may be impractical for some people. At the very least, test them once every three months or call a qualified electrician to set up a maintenance and inspection schedule.

D&F Liquidators can provide you with a wide range of electrical components, including NEMA rating switches, insulated wiring and cables, power point terminals and more, at very competitive prices. Contact us to discuss your requirements today!

D&F Liquidators has been serving the electrical construction materials needs for more than 30 years. It is an international clearinghouse, with 180,000 square facility located in Hayward, California. It keeps an extensive inventory of electrical connectors, conduit fitting, circuit breakers, junction boxes, wire cable, safety switches etc. It procures its electrical materials supplies from top-notch companies across the globe. The Company also keeps an extensive inventory of electrical explosion proof products and modern electrical lighting solutions. As it buys materials in bulk, D&F is in a unique position to offer a competitive pricing structure. Besides, it is able to meet the most discerning demands and ship material on the same day.

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12 Common Problems with PIR Sensors (and How to Handle Them)

PIR sensors have been around for many years and I have installed hundreds of them in my electrical career. I’m a big fan of the PIR sensor and the benefits that motion sensor control brings to lighting design.

Despite their many advantages, there are some common problems with PIR sensors that I see come up time and again. If you are considering switching (pardon the pun) to PIR sensor lighting or are having problems with a system you already have installed, I hope this post sheds some light on the situation (last poor pun I promise)

Some of the most common issues with PIR sensors that I come across as an electrician include inaccurate person detection, range limitations, and worn-out faulty sensors. Lately, pet immune motion detectors are also starting to show common faults.

These common problems cause false alarms, missed detections, or other issues that range from the slightly annoying to security or safety risks. Fortunately, for most common problems there are simple solutions to fix the issue. Let’s take a look at the 12 most common PIR sensor problems.

Incorrect Placement is the Most Common PIR Problem I Discover

One of the most common problems I come across with PIR sensors is incorrect placement. PIR sensors detect changes in infrared radiation within their field of view. If the sensor is placed in an area where the movement is outside its limited field of view then it cannot detect motion.

Below is a quick check homeowners can do on the placement of the PIR sensor. The fix may be as simple as adjusting the positioning.

It’s always a good idea to try and test the sensor position before installation. Temporarily fix the sensor in position then walk around the area where the sensor will be installed to ensure that it can detect motion from all angles.

We often do this with corridor sensors by placing them on the floor and walking out of office doors to ensure the sensors will pick up the movement. Much easier than fixing the sensor to the ceiling and then having to move it and fill the screw holes back in!

Incompatibility with Smart Home Systems is a Developing Problem

A common problem with PIR sensors that is emerging is the fact that in reality, the technology used is actually quite old. Some people love tried and tested technology, they know it works well and it is inexpensive.

The downside is that PIR sensors are pretty basic by modern technology standards . As more homes and businesses lean towards smart lighting solutions, the limitations of the traditional PIR are frustrating.

On a personal note, especially in commercial environments, I favour wireless Bluetooth-controlled systems, Cassambi being my favourite as it is an open protocol system. The traditional PIR sensor has a common problem of not integrating with the new technologies (a feeling many Apple users know well)

To avoid compatibility issues, it is a good idea to research and choose motion sensors that are compatible with your smart home system. This can involve checking the sensor’s communication protocol and ensuring that it is compatible with the smart home system you are using. Taking time to research at the start before committing to a system can save a lot of heartache and expense.

Interference from Other Sources Can Cause PIR Problems

PIR sensors work by detecting changes in infrared radiation , which can be affected by other sources of infrared radiation, such as sunlight, heaters, and other electronics. When these sources emit infrared radiation, the sensor may detect it as a movement and trigger the light, even if it is unwanted.

It is possible for PIR sensors to be affected by temperature changes . If the temperature in the room changes rapidly, the sensor may detect it as a movement and trigger a light. It’s best to position the sensor away from any sources of heat or cold, such as air conditioning vents or windows.

Some PIR sensors come with filters that can help to reduce interference from other sources. This is one of the features of higher-end (and more expensive PIR sensors) Spending a little more on good quality equipment often benefits in the long run.

Limited Detection Range can be Frustrating

Although PIR sensors have been the workhorse of the motion sensor world for years, their limited detection range is a frustrating problem for many. Often on a dark evening, I am almost at my door before the PIR sensor on my outside floodlight detects my movement and guides the way.

The detection range of a PIR sensor can be affected by several factors, including the height at which it is mounted, the angle at which it is installed, and the sensitivity settings of the sensor. A balance of installation and correct set-up I’d required to make sure the sensor detects the area desired.

In addition, some PIR sensors have a limited detection angle , which can also affect their range. For example, a PIR sensor with a 90-degree detection angle will only be able to detect motion within a 90-degree arc. If an object is outside of this arc, the sensor will not detect it.

Common Complaint Number 5 of PIR Sensors: False Alarms

False alarms are a common issue with PIR sensors. Not only do they cause unnecessary disruptions, but if they are frequent they lead to a lack of trust in the system. We tend to stop getting up to check why the garden light has come on if it does it all the time.

There are several common reasons why PIR sensors may generate false alarms:

• Environmental factors such as changes in temperature, humidity, or airflow.
• Animals, bugs and insects can trigger PIR sensors .
• Obstructions or objects that move in the sensor’s field of view.
• Improper installation or calibration of the sensor.

It can be wise to address false alarms in order to maintain the effectiveness of the PIR system. Regular maintenance, such as cleaning away bugs and debris, can help reduce the occurrence of false alarms.

Power Issues can be Difficult Problems to Identify

PIR sensors require a stable power supply to function correctly. I do come across power problems quite often if someone has attempted a DIY install of a sensor without having quite enough knowledge on the subject.

Wiring problems can be straightforward to discover but other power issues, such as power supply noise for low-voltage sensors, can cause the sensor to behave erratically making diagnosing the cause feel like a wild goose chase at times. Here are some other common power issues.

Getting a local electrician to diagnose power issues with a PIR sensor is the most hassle-free and safest way to rectify these problems.

Sensor Age and Wear Causes Many PIR Problems

PIR sensors are electronic devices and like all electronic devices, they can be affected by age and wear. Over time, the sensor’s performance may degrade, leading to false readings or no readings at all.

As well as general wear and tear, physical damage, such as scratches or cracks, can reduce the sensor’s sensitivity or cause it to malfunction.

Regular cleaning and maintenance can help prevent wear and tear. It is surprising how often simply cleaning away the dust and debris on the sensor’s surface can give a PIR sensor a new lease of life.

It is also important to note that the sensor’s environment will affect its lifespan. Extreme temperatures, humidity, and exposure to sunlight can all cause the sensor to deteriorate faster so is worth bearing in mind when it comes time to replace.

Inadequate Calibration is More Common than you may Think

Whilst calibration sounds fancy, really calibration is just the process of adjusting the sensor to ensure that it is accurately detecting motion and not triggering false alarms. Inadequate (or often completely overlooked) calibration can result in the sensor being too sensitive or not sensitive enough, leading to common problems.

PIR sensors come with settings that can be adjusted, usually in the form of dials that we can place a screwdriver in to turn (as shown in the photo above) The settings can adjust things like sensitivity, time delay before switching off again and how dark it needs to be for the light to operate. If the light is over-sensitive adjusting the settings is the first port of call.

Common Problem Number 9: Compatibility Issues with Other Sensors

PIR sensors may not be able to detect motion when there is a lot of background noise or interference from other sensors. On a new installation, we would typically stick with one type of sensor but when retrofitting certain areas this may not be possible.

Compatibility issues can arise when using PIR sensors with other types of sensors, such as ultrasonic or microwave sensors. Whilst choosing the correct sensor for the location is important it can be a bit of a juggling act determining which sensors work best together and which sensors provide the most accurate activations.

Environmental Factors Always Need Considering

Environmental factors can significantly impact the performance of PIR sensors and shorten their lifespan. Here are a few of the most common environmental factors that can lead to issues.

If we need to install a PIR sensor in one of these harsher environments all is not lost, we just need to make sure the sensor we install is tougher and is built to withstand the environment. This is easily done by reading the manufacturer’s specifications carefully before buying.

Sensor Failure is a Common Problem after Extended Periods of Use

PIR sensor failure can occur for a number of reasons, such as age, damage, or manufacturing defects. When a sensor fails it can be especially irritating as often the occupiers are left in darkness. Having an override switch installed at the same time means that the lights can still be turned on.

Override switches are also a good idea if you want the ability to force the lights to stay on without motion, perhaps if out sat in the garden one evening as an example.

Installation Errors

Finally, we come to installation errors which are one of the most common PIR problems. Installation errors encompass many of the things we have mentioned previously. Often though installation errors go hand in hand with purchasing the incorrect sensor for what we want to achieve.

Different motion sensors, at different price points, will have different installation needs. For example, if we need more sensitivity or a longer range opting for a microwave sensor can make a lot of sense. If we want the ability to have more control, then absence detection may be the way to go.

Dave Nicholas

I have worked as a professional electrician for many years and like to use my experience to help others in any little way I can.

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Choosing an Electrical Switch

Manual switches, light beam finger-touch switches.

An infrared light beam senses the lightest finger contact to switch a circuit on or off.

Finger-Touch Switches

The light touch of a finger turns circuits on and off without pressing down a contact.

Fingerprint Switches

Use fingerprints to confirm the identity of personnel before granting access to secure areas or equipment.

Miniature Switch Mats

With a smaller footprint than other switch mats, these fit in confined spaces.

Water-Resistant Miniature Switch Mats

Rated IP67 and NEMA 6, these switch mats withstand washdowns.

Switch Mats

Step on these mats to control doors, lights, or alarms.

Low-Profile Switch Mats

These mats fit under carpeting or anywhere else you want to hide them.

Cut-to-Length Low-Profile Switch Mats

Customize the length of these switches by cutting them from a 25-foot roll.

Low-Profile Strip Switches

These narrow switches are also thin enough to be hidden under carpeting or installed anywhere space is limited.

Cut-to-Length Low-Profile Strip Switches

Customize the length of these switches by cutting them from a 50-foot roll.

Safety Switch Mats

Prevent personnel from getting too close to dangerous equipment when equipment is on— these mats turn equipment off when someone steps on them or when a fault is detected.

Heavy Duty Safety Switch Mats

Thicker than standard safety switch mats, these withstand repeated impact from heavy and sharp objects.

Sealed Touch Pad Switches

Suitable for areas with space limitations, these switches have a low profile and a small footprint. They lay flat or mount to a wall.

Bumper Switches

Sensitive along their entire length, these switches are often used to signal when an overhead door closes or an item reaches the end of a conveyor.

Safety Bumper Switches

Prevent automatic doors from closing on a person or an object— these switches immediately turn machinery off when actuated with minimal force.

High-Force Safety Bumper Switches

Minimize false triggers— these switches require 10 lbs. of actuation force in order to shut off machinery immediately.

Contact-Sensing Robot Safety Padding

Cover robot arms and tools with this padding to help prevent injuries in areas where people are working nearby. When the padding is touched, pressure sensors signal your machine to stop moving.

Ukraine-Russia war latest: Kremlin responds to US shift on military aid; deadliest strike in weeks claims more victims

Follow our Ukraine war live page for all the latest developments and analysis of the conflict. Listen to a Daily podcast episode on the notion of the UK putting troops on the ground in Ukraine as you scroll.

Thursday 18 April 2024 16:59, UK

• Deadliest strike in weeks claims more victims
• Kremlin responds to US shift on aid to Ukraine

Two arrested in Germany on Russian spy charges

• Ukraine launches attack on Russian airfield in Crimea
• Mark Stone: Ukraine funding vote is a curious twist in America's political chaos
• The big picture: What's happening with the war this week?
• Your questions answered: How long will it take for any aid to turn the tide militarily?
• Live reporting by Guy Birchall

That's it from our live coverage of the war in Ukraine for today. 

We'll be back again with more updates, but here's a round up of a day that saw the death toll from the worst Russian strike in weeks rise to 18.

Another 78 were wounded when three missiles slammed into the northern city of Chernihiv, causing a building to collapse.

The strike redoubled Volodymyr Zelenskyy's calls for further air defence munitions, and forced that issue high up the agenda of a meeting of G7 foreign ministers in Italy.

It even seemed to spark some progress in Washington, where funding for Ukraine has been tangled up in political squabbles for more than 40 months.

Two men were arrested in Germany for allegedly plotting sabotage attacks, including on American military facilities, in an effort to undermine support for Ukraine, according toGerman prosecutors.

Authorities searched the homes and workplaces of the two suspects, both German-Russian nationals, who are accused of working for a foreign secret service.

Berlin's foreign ministry later summoned the Russian ambassador following the arrests.

Other key facts from the day include:

• Ukraine launches attack on Russian airfield in Crimea;
• Kremlin claims US aid won't help Ukraine;
• Russia claims Ukraine strike the Zaporizhzhia nuclear power plant.

Ukraine needs $42bn (£34bn) in budgetary support this year as it continues to fight the Russian invasion, the head of the International Monetary Fund (IMF) has said.

IMF managing director Kristalina Georgieva said Russia's war against Ukraine needed to end, calling it both a human tragedy and a drag on growth prospects for the global economy. 

She added that she saw global support for Ukraine remaining firm. 

G7 members are considering using nearly $300bn (£240bn) in frozen Russian assets as collateral to provide loans to Ukraine.

European Commission executive vice president Valdis Dombrovskis made the revelation at a meeting of the group's foreign ministers in Italy.

He added that different options were also under consideration, and the discussions were ongoing. 

Mr Dombrovskis said he hoped the EU - where the bulk of the frozen assets are held - would approve a separate EU measure in coming months to use the profits or interest earned on the assets to help Ukraine. 

NATO is working to send more air defence systems to Ukraine, secretary general Jens Stoltenberg has said.

Speaking at a meeting of foreign ministers of the G7, he said: "We have compiled data about the different air defence systems we have in NATO and focused on the Patriot systems. 

"And we are working with allies to ensure that they redeploy some of their systems to Ukraine.

"I am encouraged by the commitment and the determination by NATO allies to stand up for Ukraine." 

Mr Stoltenberg added that he was seeing encouraging signs that the US Congress might soon pass an aid package for Ukraine.

Here are the latest pictures from the front and from behind the lines as the war in Ukraine rages on.

Ukrainian strikes in Russia

A couple stand near a house damaged by a Ukrainian drone attack in Voronezh, Russia.

Several structures were destroyed in the strike.

G7 foreign ministers meet in Italy

Ukraine's air defences is a key issue for ministers gathered on the Italian island of Capri, following a German appeal on Wednesday to the European Union and NATO to do more to help Kyiv. 

German president inspects troops

German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier visited Bundeswher troops training in Munster, Germany.

Much of the tank training Ukrainian troops have undergone has taken place near the western German city.

Prague protest

Protesters carry wooden crosses in the colours of the Ukrainian flag and place them in front of the US embassy in Prague in protest at the lives lost due to "American hesitancy" during a rally called "Defend Ukrainian skies" in the Czech capital.

G7 foreign ministers have warned that Ukraine risks being defeated by Russia unless it receives more air defences.

More than two years into Russia's full-scale invasion, Kyiv is facing an ammunition shortage, with vital American funding still tied up in political wrangling on Capitol Hill and the EU failing to deliver sufficient munitions promptly.

The ministers began a second day of talks on the Italian island of Capri by discussing the Middle East crisis and were expected to turn to Ukraine in the afternoon, when they were due to be joined by the head of NATO and Ukraine's foreign minister.

The EU foreign policy chief Josep Borrell, who attends G7 gatherings alongside his American Italian, German, French, British, Japanese and Canadian counterparts, urged EU nations to hand over air defence systems to help Ukraine protect its cities from Russia, which is targeting key infrastructure.

"Otherwise, the electricity system of Ukraine will be destroyed. And no country can fight without having electricity at home, in the factories, online, for everything," he told reporters.

Russian air defences shot down what they described as five Ukrainian balloons overnight, according to the Kremlin's defence ministry.

Neither Moscow nor Kyiv have provided details about the balloons, which Russian authorities reported appearing on the battlefield in recent weeks.

According to Russian news reports, the Ukrainian balloons are equipped with a GPS module and carry explosives.

They are allegedly are harder to detect and could carry larger payloads than conventional, smaller drones.

It is not clear if the balloons are lifted by helium, hot air or something else entirely.

They aren't controllable once in the air, with the GPS module likely being used to co-ordinate the release of explosives if the balloon floats over a specific area.

Three Ukrainian balloons and one drone were downed over the Voronezh region, which borders the occupied Luhansk region of Ukraine.

Two others were intercepted in the Belgorod region of Russia next to Ukraine, according to the Russian defence ministry.

As well as the balloons, Russia claimed it intercepted two Ukrainian tactical missiles, 19 rockets and 16 drones during the night.

A Russian missile attack on Dnipropetrovsk region this morning damaged an infrastructure facility and a business, a local official said. 

Two people were injured and taken to hospital, according to the regional governor, who added that the attack caused fires at two sites. 

Ukraine's air force issued a warning of a ballistic missile threat ahead of the strike.

Moscow has stepped up combined missile and drone strikes targeting Ukraine's power grid in recent weeks, resulting in significant damage. 

The Kremlin has also increased its use of harder-to-intercept ballistic missiles. 

The Kremlin claims that any new American military aid for Ukraine (see 9.36 post) won't change the situation at the front, which it described as "unfavourable" for Kyiv's forces.

Spokesman Dmitry Peskov then said US aid, would, however, help the US defence industry and leave Ukraine in debt. 

Assuming a bill in the House of Representatives passes, Ukraine will be the recipient of more than $60bn (£48bn) of lethal aid from Washington. 

Volodymyr Zelenskyy has been calling on Ukraine's allies to provide more support, particularly air defence weapons, in light of increased missile bombardment by Russia.

Berlin's foreign ministry has summoned the Russian ambassador following the arrest of two German-Russian nationals on suspicion of plotting sabotage attacks, including on US military facilities, in Germany Bild reports.

Germany has become one of Kyiv's biggest suppliers of military aid since the war began and is a major target for Russian spying operations, according to authorities in Berlin.

"Our security authorities have prevented possible explosive attacks that were intended to target and undermine our military assistance to Ukraine," Interior Minister Nancy Faeser said earlier. 

"It is a particularly serious case of alleged spy activity for Putin's criminal regime." 

The Kremlin earlier denied knowledge of the arrests.

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