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How to Grow a Venus Flytrap as a Houseplant

If you want to grow a Venus flytrap indoors, you don't actually have to feed it bugs—but it does need some special care.

Deb Wiley's goal as a writer and editor is to bring the joy of gardening to readers by cultivating their relationship to growing and planting. After 20 years as a newspaper reporter, Deb melded her lifelong passion for gardening with her writing and photography experience when she became the garden editor for Midwest Living magazine. Since starting her freelance career in 2008, she has been a highly sought-after writer, editor, and creative project manager for a wide range of magazines, books, and online garden articles. where she brings personal experience as well as deep connections to specialists in the world of horticulture.

• Where to Grow

What to Feed a Venus Flytrap

Potting and repotting venus flytrap, pests and problems.

• Propagation

Growing a Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) is almost like having a little green pet, complete with hungry bifold jaws with spiky fringed "teeth." And when an insect lands on that enticing pink center and the trap closes around the victim, that's completely out of this world! In order to grow a Venus flytrap, you need to provide it different care than other houseplants you're probably used to growing , but these tips will help guide you through its requirements to thrive.

Venus Flytrap Overview

Where to grow venus flytrap.

Instead of originating one planet away from Earth, Venus flytraps are perennials native to boggy areas of coastal North and South Carolina. They grow in moist, acidic soils  in full sun , but most varieties survive winter  outdoors only in Zones 8-10 . Although some varieties can live in colder zones with protection, most gardeners grow them as houseplants that summer outdoors and winter indoors. Gardeners in cold winter climates should grow Venus flytraps in a moist environment,  such as an open terrarium , that can go indoors during winter.

Evgeniya Vlasova / BHG

Venus Flytrap Care Tips

Venus flytraps do best in at least six hours of bright sunlight per day. When they are grown inside under artificial lights , keep flytraps 4 to 7 inches away from fluorescent lights. If your plant's traps don't show a pink interior (depending on variety) or the leaves look long and spindly, provide more light.

Soil and Water

Venus flytrap thrives in poor, acidic soil that stays damp but still has good drainage. Avoid using regular potting soil , some of which may have added fertilizers. A blend of one-third perlite (or sand) and two-thirds sphagnum peat moss provides the best drainage and moisture retention.

Keep the soil constantly moist . One way to do this is to place the flytrap pot in a saucer or tray of water about an inch deep. Never give your plants what comes out of your tap; it's usually too alkaline or might have too many minerals. Instead, rely on rainwater or use distilled water.

Temperature and Humidity

Venus flytrap prefers a temperature of 70°F-95°F, although some varieties can survive 40°F in the winter with protection. For the best Venus flytrap care,  keep the environment humid . Good air circulation is also important when growing Venus flytrap plants, so turn on a fan in the room where you keep them.

Never add fertilizer, and don't add lime to the soil of Venus flytrap plants. These plants get the nutrients they need from their prey.

Although flytraps are carnivorous, they can go for long periods (a month or two) without eating insects. If you grow them outdoors , they'll get enough to eat naturally. If you're growing Venus flytraps indoors, you'll have to feed them small bugs such as flies and beetles periodically. When you're feeding a flytrap, don't give it any insects larger than a third of the size of the trap. Otherwise, the trap won't be able to fully close and begin digesting the food.

It doesn't matter if the bug is alive or not, but the trap needs to be triggered by movement before it will close. For dead prey, after placing the bug in an open trap, gently touch a small paintbrush to the inside of the trap until you see the trap start to close. Only trigger traps to close when there is food for the plant. Playing with the traps just to make them close wastes the plant's energy, which can lead to its decline.

Don't feed a Venus flytrap any meat, including chicken, steak, sausage, or hot dogs. Also, refrain from offering fruit or candy.

When you receive a Venus flytrap, pot it in a small, deep pot using a recommended potting medium, such as one-third perlite and two-thirds peat moss . The depth of the pot encourages root growth, as does tray watering, so choose a minimum of a 4-inch-deep pot that has a drainage hole and a tray. Deeper is even better.

As for width of the pot for a Venus flytrap, the more soil around the roots, the better the insulation, so in cold areas, a wider pot is preferable. How wide? A single Venus flytrap usually grows comfortably in a 5-inch wide pot. When the plant becomes crowded—or annually, even if it doesn't become crowded—repot it using fresh potting medium.

Venus flytraps aren't bothered by many pests but might attract aphids , spider mites, or fungus gnats. If the plant has aphids, submerge it in water (distilled, not tap!) for two days. Wait a week and repeat the process. If the plant has a severe aphid infestation, apply an insecticidal soap or neem oil , which is also effective against spider mites .

In the case of fungus gnats , the larvae cause the problem. Control them by drenching the soil with Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). To prevent attracting them, keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy.

At times, the Venus flytrap leaves and traps turn black or burnt-looking, causing new owners to be alarmed. The plant is likely entering its dormant period, at which point the foliage dies only to emerge refreshed months later. However, an unhealthy Venus flytrap can display black leaves or traps due to other reasons: low humidity, letting the plant dry out too often, and root rot among them. In these cases, correct the problem and trim the black leaves and traps from the plant; they can't be saved.

How to Propagate Venus Flytrap

You can propagate Venus flytrap by division, leaf cuttings, or seeds. Most people choose division or leaf cuttings to propagate their Venus flytraps. Propagating from seed is possible but complicated.

The best time for division is late winter to spring. Remove the plant from the container and use a sharp knife to cut it into two or more sections. Each division must contain a portion of the root system. Repot the divisions immediately in individual pots filled with a perlite/peat moss mix.

Propagate from leaf cuttings in early summer by pulling out and down to remove an entire leaf. It must have a tiny bit of rhizome at the end to be useful for propagation. Insert the leaf (or several) into a small pot filled with well-draining potting medium. Put the pot in a plastic bag to keep it from drying out. As a leaf turns black, trim it off. About six months later, a tiny but recognizable Venus flytrap will appear. If several leaves were planted in a pot, separate them at this point.

Types of Venus Flytraps

Plant breeders have been working with Venus flytraps and have come out with new varieties, including a few with large burgundy-red traps. These unusual varieties, along with familiar favorites , are available from specialty garden centers or online retailers. Popular varieties of Venus flytrap include:

• 'Red Dragon' : The leaves and traps of Dionaea muscipula 'Red Dragon', also known as Dionaea muscipula 'Adai Ryu', turn dark red in full sunlight. During winter dormancy, 'Red Dragon' drops all its leaves but soon bounces back. This striking beauty grows to 4 inches tall and requires minimal protection outdoors in Zones 7-9. In colder regions, mulch the plant or grow it indoors as a houseplant.
• 'King Henry' : An excellent starter plant for newcomers to carnivorous plants , Dionaea muscipula 'King Henry' is large, fast-growing, and hardy in Zones 5–9 (with protection in colder areas). It has green leaves and large traps with red interiors. This flytrap grows up to 5 inches tall.
• 'Gremlin' : Dionaea muscipula ‘Gremlin’ is a charming all-green flytrap that isn't as tall as some at first but makes up for its size with a huge amount of traps. It forms dense clumps and spreads rapidly over a short period. The traps increase in size as the growth points age—some up to 1 inch long. It is rumored to spread to fill a 12-inch bowl within a year.
• 'Big Mouth' : As the name implies, Dionaea muscipula ‘Big Mouth’ produces large red-mouthed traps fringed in green that hug the ground rather than grow on upright stems. It grows to 3–5 inches. This flytrap is hardy in Zones 6-9, with protection in colder areas.
• 'B52' : The bright-red traps of Dionaea muscipula 'B52' are massive and reach 1.5 to 2 inches in length. 'B52' tends to clump, and it reaches 3-5 inches tall, so the traps look like they are almost sitting on the ground. 'B52' is hardy in Zones 6-9, with protection in colder areas.

Many types of carnivorous plants, including the Venus flytrap, are federally endangered or threatened because of habitat loss and overcollection. Make sure to purchase your plants from a reputable source that doesn't collect from wild populations.

Winter Dormancy for Venus Flytraps

Like many other plants, Venus flytraps need a period of winter dormancy when they appear to be dead (the leaves may die back) but are merely resting. Keep the plant at 35°F to 50°F during this time. Don't let terrariums freeze, or the plants may die, and the glass may break. At about the spring equinox, when days start growing longer, begin to increase warmth and light .

Frequently Asked Questions

Venus flytrap plants can live for about 20 years under optimum conditions, but they must be allowed to go dormant each year to live that long. Plants that live outside go dormant without any help, but plants grown indoors exclusively need to be "forced" to go dormant by moving them to a cold area of the house or even a refrigerator for about three months.

Producing a flower takes a lot of energy. That's no problem for a mature Venus flytrap. It can happily flower on and off during the year. However, young plants don't handle the energy drain as well as mature plants. Cut the flowers from young plants as soon as you see them forming for the first year or two. The flowers don't attract insects, so they are purely ornamental. Removing them does no harm.

A Venus flytrap isn't strong enough to "bite" you with any power. If you stick your finger in the plant, it is more likely to be damaged than you are.

Related Articles

Learn about the Venus Flytraps in Carolina Beach State Park

Giant pine cones, Venus Flytraps and kayaking adventures were just the beginning of what we found in Carolina Beach State Park in Carolina Beach, NC with kids.

If I’m being really honest, this state park had me at Venus Flytraps. For some reason, I thought these little guys were extinct in the wild. They seemed like something only scientists could keep alive in test tubes or maybe at Home Depot.

I certainly hadn’t been able to keep one alive at home. And yet, here, in this unassuming little state park in North Carolina , Venus Flytraps were thriving. OK, it was partly thanks to the park rangers who protected the plants with a vengeance against poachers and just plain ignorance.

Venus Flytrap Tours at Carolina Beach State Park

Every Saturday morning at 10am in the summer months (11am in winter) park rangers arrive at the Flytrap trailhead to lead whomever wants to join them on a walk that lasts about an hour.

They give the history of the area and why this particular spot is one of the last in the world that has the perfect conditions for the Venus Flytraps to grow (these little devils are very particular).

NOTE: Every few years the forest the Flytraps grow in has to be burned so they can reseed. If you go on the tour, make sure you ask the rangers about this. It’s fascinating.

HOW TO FIND VENUS FLYTRAPS IN THE WILD

The Flytraps are very hard to find on your own. These plants are much smaller than you realize and tend to hide under larger plants. Go on the tour.

If your kids get antsy it’s OK. Just move at your own pace.

The park rangers don’t mind if you wander off down the path. If you’re late, just jump onto the tour already in progress.

Kids on a Venus Flytrap State Park Tour

I totally forgot about the Saturday tour on our second visit. I was trying to find the Venus Flytraps again to show my husband. We saw a cluster of people. They must have found them! We rushed on over. Low and behold it was the group with the park rangers.

Most of the group consisted of older visitors, who were more than excited to help my little men discover a rare bit of nature.

The rangers happily answered my sons’ questions that I’m sure had already been covered and invited us to wrap up the tour with them, which we happily did.

Venus Flytrap Poaching in Carolina Beach State Park

Keep in mind that although Venus flytraps do grow throughout the park, you will only see one spot on the guided tour. The park rangers won’t show you all of them.

Plant poaching is a huge problem, so the rangers do keep some spots a secret to protect the plants.

Do not touch the plants. Do not take the plants. Respect these native inhabitants. They are rare.

In fact, this is the only spot in the country where the Venus flytrap still grows. The plant requires a very specific growing condition and Carolina Beach still has it. Let’s help the area stay that way.

Carolina Beach State Park with Kids

Carolina Beach State Park has a lot more to do than just hunting for Venus flytraps. We had originally set out to go kayaking that day. Sadly, the weather conditions were not in our favor.

The wind was too strong to take the kids out . We did a little hiking, but with antsy boys, I knew I needed to have a destination in mind.

Having a very rare and amazing plant to look for was the perfect excuse to keep my boys moving.

Carolina Beach with Kids

We eventually went back to the beach after our tour ended, but thankfully we were all a little wiser. Both of my sons had more questions , and naturally wanted their own Venus flytrap at home. We’d already killed several we had bought at Home Depot.

Thanks to the little chat with the park rangers, I was able to convince the boys that maybe these plants were better left growing in the wild than on our windowsill.

I was happy to bring them back anytime for a visit. In fact, Carolina Beach is home to one of my favorite restaurants, Surf House Oyster Bar & Surf Camp.

Between the restaurant and the Venus Flytraps, I could easily be convinced to make the drive down to Carolina Beach very soon.

flytrap via ShutterStock.com

About The Author

Keryn Means

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Venus Flytrap: Care, Feeding, Facts, Flowers (With Pictures)

Venus flytrap is a popular carnivorous plant that traps insects before “consuming” them. The Venus flytrap uses sweet nectar to attract flies and insects to its two hinged lobes. When a fly, spider, or bug touches the fine bristles on the surface, the lobes close, trapping the insect. Fluids from the leaf tissue dissolve the insect, and the plant feeds by absorbing the insect’s nutrients.

From all the carnivorous plants, the Venus flytrap is one of the few to have visible movements to catch its prey. The clusters of toothed lobes that snap closed when an insect lands on it are fascinating to watch.

Caring for a Venus flytrap at home can be tricky. The unusual plant has some specific care needs when it comes to sun, moisture, and winter dormancy.  However, you can successfully grow a Venus fly trap at home with the proper care so that you can enjoy watching this fascinating insect-eating plant.

This article is a guide to growing a Venus flytrap in a pot at home or in a warm sunny garden. In addition to a care guide, you’ll also learn about the other varieties of Venus flytraps available.

Venus Flytrap ( Dionaea muscipula ) Facts

Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) is a low growing flowering perennial plant

Venus flytrap is a perennial subtropical flowering plant in the genus Dionaea and family Droseraceae . Native to North Carolina and South Carolina, it is the only species in its genus. Outdoors, Venus flytraps only grow in USDA zone 8 to 10 in moist, acidic soil. Because they are a low-growing plant, they can be challenging to spot in the wild.

Venus flytraps have elongated heart-shaped leaves that have a hinged lobe at the end with toothed margins. The carnivorous plants grow in a rosette cluster of four to seven leaves. The stems grow 1.2” – 4” (3 – 10 cm) long, but they are mostly underground, with only the leaves showing. Leaves either lie flat on the ground or grow at a 40° to 60° angle.

The trap system on Venus flytraps is two circular lobes with spiny teeth along the margins. The surface of the lobes has tiny bristles that interlock when the trap closes. Depending on the species, the inside of the trap can be red, light burgundy, pink, green, or purple.

Venus flytrap lobes trap insects

An interesting feature of Venus flytraps is that they only close when an insect enters the “mouth” section. Usually, only when the delicate hairs inside the lobe are touched in quick succession, do the traps close shut. This way, the plant conserves energy and doesn’t react to raindrops or breezes.

A characteristic of Venus flytraps is that the stems of their flowers are longer than the plant’s “jaws.” The long flower stems grow approximately 6” (15 cm) long, double the length of the prostrate leaves. The growth feature ensures that the plants don’t trap pollinators but only crawling insects or non-pollinating flying insects.

Venus flytrap flower

Venus Flytrap Flower

Close up picture of Venus flytrap flower

A Venus flytrap flower consists of five white ovate or obovate-shaped petals in a star shape and green stamens. The white flowers grow on the end of long upright stems and appear in late spring. After pollinating, the flytrap plant puts its energy into producing seeds to reproduce.

Should you allow a Venus flytrap to bloom? If you are caring for a Venus flytrap at home, it’s best to cut the flower stalk before it blooms. The stalk is a cylindrical stem that appears from the middle of the plant. If you allow the Venus flytrap to flower, it will have sluggish growth for most of the year. In some cases, cultivated plants can die after flowering.

How to Grow Venus Flytraps

To care for a Venus flytrap, grow the plant in pots with peat moss and perlite at a ratio of 2:1. Place on a sunny windowsill for best growth. Water regularly so the soil is constantly moist. During winter, keep the plant in cool temperatures, away from direct sunlight.

What Do Venus Flytraps “Eat”?

Venus flytrap feed on small insects and spiders

Venus flytraps “consume” small insects and spiders . A standard diet of Venus flytraps is ants, beetles , slugs, small caterpillars , flies, and even tiny frogs. After trapping its prey, a Venus flytrap secretes a liquid that breaks down the insect, taking three to five days. Then, it takes up to 12 days to finish the meal.

After feeding, the plant will open its trap, revealing the exoskeleton. This lures in the next unsuspecting insect, and the feeding process continues when the hungry plant traps its next victim. After around five meals, the trap no longer catches bugs, but it photosynthesizes before dropping off.

How to Feed Venus Flytrap?

Avoid feeding Venus flytrap during its winter dormancy

You will need to catch flies or insects to feed your flytrap plant when growing it indoors. First, use a net to catch small bugs outdoors. Then using tweezers, gently brush the dead insect on one of the trap’s lobes. This should stimulate the lobes to close.

Alternatively, you can buy dried crickets, bloodworms, or mealworms to feed your bug-eating plant. Before serving the “meal,” rehydrate the worm or insect before feeding it to your plant.

After feeding the Venus flytrap, the lobes will stay closed for up to two weeks.

It’s vital not to overfeed a Venus flytrap, or it may die. The plant takes a long time to digest one insect, and you only feed one single trap of the whole plant. Then let the plant rest for a week or two between feedings.

There should always be one bug feeding at a time. So if you have six or eight traps or more, you may have to feed each individual trap once every week or two.

Here are a few handy tips when it comes to feeding a Venus flytrap:

• Don’t overstimulate the traps too much if you’re not feeding them. They only open and close up to ten times.
• Avoid feeding Venus flytrap plants during winter dormancy.
• Only feed the plant dead or living insects, never raw meat.
• If there are many traps on your plant, at least one trap should always be feeding on an insect.

How Long Do Venus Flytraps Live?

Venus flytrap can live up to 20 years

A Venus flytrap has a lifespan of up to 20 years under the right conditions. The Venus flytrap is a perennial subtropical plant and will grow year after year. A trap will open and close several times before dying. The plant will then grow a new underground stem.

Where Do Venus Flytraps Live?

In their natural habitat, Venus flytraps live in moist, loamy ground in the coastal plains and Sand hills of North and South Carolina. Generally, Venus flytrap plants grow in longleaf pine uplands where the ground is damp and of poor quality. However, the plants have also been introduced to some parts of Florida and Washington State.

Indoors, a Venus flytrap grows in a place where it gets full sun most of the day, for example, on your sunniest windowsill. Too much shade will cause the leaves to wilt and lose their energy. You can also grow the insect-loving plant in a closed terrarium . However, you need to ensure it gets plenty of light and has a dormant period in the winter.

How Big Do Venus Flytraps Get?

Venus flytraps grow up to 5” (13 cm) in diameter. Usually, a single leaf only measures around 1” (2.5 cm). Under good growing conditions, the small predatory plant can have between eight and 20 traps. Every so often, a trap will drop off, and a new one grows in its place.

Winter Dormancy for Venus Flytraps

For a Venus flytrap to grow year after year, it needs three to five months of winter dormancy. During the winter period, the leaves turn black and die. Therefore, you should place the potted plant in a cool, unheated location from late fall until early spring. Ideally, temperatures between 50°F and 35°F (10°C and -1°C) are perfect.

Keep the soil damp during the winter months, but don’t feed the plant with insects because it’s resting. When the temperatures start to warm over 50°F (10°C), place the plant in a sunnier location. Cut off any dead leaves. The plant will then start to grow again, ready to catch more bugs.

Varieties of Venus Flytrap Plants

There are many varieties of Venus flytrap plants, each with its traits and characteristics. Here are a few interesting types of Venus flytraps:

• Red Dragon —This spectacular insect-catching plant has deep red leaves, lobes, and long dark red thin spiny teeth.

Venus flytrap ‘Red Dragon’

• Justina Davis —All the leaf parts, including the two circular spiny lobes, are light green.

Venus flytrap ‘Justina Davis’

• Flaming Lips —The characteristic feature of this Venus flytrap is bright red lobes with a lime-green margin and sharp-looking teeth.
• Red Piranha —The burgundy-red leaves and lobes create a dramatic effect with this carnivorous plant.

Venus flytrap ‘Red Piranha’

• Sawtooth —The identifying trait of this Venus flytrap plant is green-toothed lobes with deep red shading on the inside.

Venus flytrap ‘Sawtooth’

Venus Flytrap ( Dionaea muscipula ) Care Guide

A healthy Venus flytrap needs specific growing conditions to thrive. Proper care for the Venus flytrap plant involves growing it in sphagnum peat moss, using distilled water when watering, and keeping it in bright sunlight. Let’s look in more detail at how to grow a Venus flytrap in a pot.

Venus Flytrap Soil

To ensure healthy growth, always grow a Venus flytrap in a mineral-free, nutrient-free potting mix. The typical compost mixture for the plant is two parts sphagnum peat moss and one part perlite . This soilless potting mix contains few nutrients and has excellent moisture retention—ideal for a thriving Venus flytrap.

Alternatively, you can use a carnivorous plant soil specially formulated for plants that feed on insects and bugs as an appropriate potting medium.

Never plant a Venus flytrap in regular potting soil . Soil from the garden or a nutrient-rich potting mix contains too many minerals that can cause the plant to lose its vigor and die.

Lights Requirements for Growing Venus Flytrap

Grow Venus flytrap in a sunny location where it gets at least six hours of daily sunlight

Venus flytrap plants require at least six hours of sunlight a day to thrive. Therefore, the best place to grow the fly-catching plant is on a south-facing windowsill. You can also use a suitable plant grow light to ensure the carnivorous plant grows well.

Although a Venus flytrap is a suitable terrarium plant, it’s vital to supply enough light. This can sometimes be a challenge in a crowded glass enclosure. However, the constantly damp conditions and moist soil can benefit the plant if it gets enough sunlight daily.

But it’s good to remember that direct sunlight on a glass terrarium could cause the temperature to become too high and lead to leaf burn.

How to Water a Venus Fly Trap

When watering a Venus flytrap, always use mineral-free water. It is OK to use reverse osmosis water, rainwater, deionized water, or distilled water. However, tap water contains minerals and chemicals that can harm your carnivorous plant’s growth. In addition, water the soil often enough so that it is always moist.

To water a Venus flytrap, sit the pot on a saucer of water for a few hours each day. It is best not to water the soil from the top. As a rule, never let the soil dry out—even partially—otherwise, you risk stressing the moisture-loving insect eater plant, and it could eventually die.

Some people keep the Venus flytrap plant pot constantly in 0.4” (1 cm) of distilled water.

In winter, during dormancy, the soil needs to be kept damp but never too moist. Therefore, you don’t need to set it in water continuously.

Venus Fly Trap Temperature and Humidity Requirements

A Venus flytrap requires at least 60 percent relative humidity to flourish. If you sit the potted Venus flytrap on a water tray, the evaporating water will help provide humidity. Or you can grow the fly-catching plant near other houseplants to create a humid atmosphere.

The ideal temperature range for Venus flytrap plants is 70°F to 95°F (21°C – 35°C). During the winter dormancy period, the temperature should be between 40°F and 50°F (5°C – 10°C) to allow the tropical plant to rest. A Venus flytrap can stand light frosts at 35°F (-1°), but long spells below freezing could kill the plant’s roots.

Venus Flytrap Fertilizer

Venus flytrap plants don’t require any fertilization

Venus flytraps don’t require any kind of tropical plant or houseplant fertilizer . Instead, the plant thrives in poor soil and gets nutrients from a steady diet of spiders, grasshoppers, beetles, and other bugs.

Repoting a Venus Flytrap

Venus flytraps benefit from annual repotting to help keep the potting medium fresh and aerated. The best time to repot Venus flytraps is during spring or early summer when they come out of their winter dormancy.

When removing the old soil of the Venus flytrap, check the bulbous rhizomes for root rot and remove affected parts. This is when you can check if you can divide the Venus flytrap into multiple plants for propagation.

Venus Flytrap Propagation

The easiest way to propagate a Venus flytrap plant is to divide the roots in late winter. To propagate the plant, remove it from the pot and look for an offshoot with its own root system. You can then repot the plants in new pots.

You can also peel a leaf off from the root system to start a new plant. It’s good to remember that the leaf stem is underground. So, you will have to remove the soil from the roots to find a suitable leaf to remove. After removing the leaf, put it in a sphagnum moss and perlite mix. It will take about two years to produce a mature Venus flytrap plant.

Pests Affecting Venus Flytrap Growth

The primary pests affecting Venus flytraps are aphids and fungus gnats . Unfortunately, aphids are too small for the plants to catch, and Venus flytraps don’t constantly trap every tiny fly that buzzes around it. The good news is that aphids rarely cause any severe damage to Venus flytraps.

To get rid of aphids, submerge the plant in water for two to three days. After a week, repeat the treatment.

Fungus gnat larvae can cause damage to Venus flytrap plants by feeding on the plant’s stems and leaves. The best way to control fungus gnats is by applying Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). The soil bacteria disrupt the lifecycle of the gnat larvae, eventually killing them for good.

Diseases Affecting Venus Flytrap Growth

Because Venus flytraps thrive in high humidity and moist soil, gray mold ( Botrytis cinerea ) can be an issue if the temperature is too cool. The grayish moldy spots can cause the leaves to wilt and die. The best way to deal with plant mold is to remove any infected leaves and put the plant in a warm, sunny spot.

Venus Flytrap Care – FAQs

Is it normal for Venus flytrap leaves to die?

Venus flytrap leaves die every year as they enter winter dormancy. This is entirely natural, and you don’t have to worry. However, leaves may wilt and die if you over-feed the plant, use the incorrect water in the soil, allow the ground to dry out, or don’t ensure a resting time of three to four months during winter.

What does an unhealthy Venus flytrap look like?

A Venus flytrap that is stressed can lose its color, develop deformed leaves, or the leaves could start turning black. The most common reason Venus flytrap plants die is due to overly-rich soil, poor watering, or lack of sunlight. To revive a dying Venus flytrap, it’s vital to address the growing issues.

If necessary, change the soil and ensure that the potting mix is a peat moss and perlite combination. Also, only use distilled water or rainwater to keep the soil moist, and ensure the Venus flytrap gets plenty of sunlight by placing it on your sunniest windowsill.

What happens if my Venus flytrap plant goes black?

It’s normal for Venus flytrap leaves to turn black as winter approaches. During the months of dormancy, the leaves will be black as the plant rests. You can remove all dead leaves in spring, and new leaves should grow from the underground stems.

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How to care for your Venus flytrap – a beginner’s guide

Tldr venus flytrap care summary, water your venus flytrap with distilled water, ditch the humidity dome, plenty of sunshine, feed your venus flytrap (but not too much), respect your flytrap’s dormancy, bonus item: enjoy growing your venus flytrap, growing venus flytraps – basic care.

Hey, did you just pick up an awesome new Venus flytrap from HomeDepot/Walmart/your local nursery? That’s super! Actually, that is exactly how your dear author got started with carnivorous plants some 20+ years ago (more time than I’d like to admit). Maybe this is your first, second, or even third time trying to grow Dionaea muscipula (fancy Latin name for Venus flytrap), and I know exactly how tough it can be to keep your awesome new plant producing big, beautiful traps. -I’ve definitely killed my fair share.

Let’s talk about how to grow a Venus flytrap, keeping it alive and healthy. I go into tons of plant-specific detail on our Venus flytrap genus page , but what about the basics? – Those essential quick tips to help a new grower. Strap in, because here’s your crash course:

Avoid spring and tap water – the mineral content is too high, and it will damage and eventually kill your flytrap.

Ditch the Dome

Chances are that your Venus flytrap came in a clear plastic container. This plastic dome is great to retain humidity (and moisture, in general), and protects your carnivorous plant in transit from greenhouse to store, and store to your home. Once you’ve got the plant home, chances are you’re going to smother the thing with love, give it enough water to keep it happy, and avoid knocking it around. The dome has served its purpose, and it’s now time to liberate your flytrap so that it has room to spread out, unencumbered. Go ahead and carefully remove the plant from its plastic cage.

If you live in a humid area, you can simply remove and recycle the plastic container. If you live in a drier region, it’s best to acclimate the plant to lower humidity levels. Start by removing the flytrap from its container for a few hours, then returning it for the rest of the day. Each day, remove the plant for a couple extra hours. After a few days, you can remove it entirely.

Do note that without the humidity dome, moisture will be lost to evaporation at a quicker rate, so keep an eye on soil moisture, and don’t let it dry out!

Your new Venus flytrap will appreciate ample sunshine. I grow mine outdoors in sunny Southern California in mostly direct sunlight (the plants are shaded from direct afternoon sun by some taller, nearby pitcher plants ). Outdoors or sunny windowsills should suffice.

If you picked up your flytrap from a store where it was kept inside, you’ll want to adapt the plant to brighter conditions over the course of a week to avoid frying it. Similar to the humidity acclimation method discussed above, go ahead and expose the plant to more and more light over the course of a week. By the end of the week, the worst case will be a little bit of plant sunburn. The best case is the plant will perk up and start producing pinkish red hues on the interior of traps.

Remember, more sun = hotter = more evaporation, so keep your flytrap’s soil moist, but not soaking wet.

Feeding Your Venus Flytrap

I think we can all agree that feeding a Venus flytrap is the coolest thing about owning one. What’s the best way to feed a flytrap?

What can you feed a Venus flytrap?

Stick to bugs. Don’t feed your flytrap meat, or anything other than what it would naturally catch in the wild. Anything else will cause the traps to rot before the plant can extract sufficient nutrients from the food. Make sure the bugs are 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the trap itself, so that the trap can completely seal around the insect without it poking out between the teeth or causing the trap to bulge. Anything bigger, and the trap will have a hard time sealing and may rot. Anything smaller, and the prey may escape between the teeth.

How do you feed a Venus flytrap?

Small trigger hairs within a flytrap need to be touched twice within a span of 20 seconds for the trap to snap closed. Once it is closed, a live insect will continue to wiggle around, touching the hairs more, causing the trap to seal and digest. If you’re feeding the plant dead insects, you’ll need to slide a toothpick between the teeth and gently rub the inside surface of the trap to stimulate the trigger hairs manually.

Can you overfeed a Venus flytrap?

If grown outdoors, your flytrap will almost certainly catch enough food to keep it happy. If you’re growing indoors, a simple rule of thumb is to feed one trap per week. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest prey. Triggering too many traps with food within a short span of time will temporarily weaken the plant as it works to extract nutrients. If you overfeed, your plant may produce smaller traps until it has a chance to recover. I just try to imagine how sleepy and lazy I feel after a big meal – it’s kind-of like that.

By the way, each individual trap is good for 1-3 meals before it dies. Traps take about ten days to digest prey and stay closed the entire time.

Can I play with the flytrap?

Remember, triggering traps takes energy, and if you trigger too many without actually feeding the plant, you will weaken it, and it will start to produce smaller traps.

Respect Venus Flytrap Dormancy

Probably the hardest thing to pull off as a new grower, winter dormancy for Venus flytraps starts around November, and lasts until late February or early March. During this time, daylight should wane, temperatures should drop, and soil should dry out a bit. All traps will turn black and die, and it may look like your poor flytrap is dead. The hardest part is not throwing your plant out, assuming it has gone to the big bog garden in the sky. As long as you keep the soil very lightly moist, the plant will survive winter, and come back much stronger the next year. Dormancy months can shift, depending on your global location and climate – just make sure your plants get a solid 3-5 months of sleep.

Without a winter dormancy, Venus flytraps will weaken and eventually die.

Have more questions about your Venus flytrap? Ask in the comments section, below and we’ll be happy to answer!

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About the author: david fefferman.

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139 comments.

Let me start this post by saying I have spent MANY, many hours and days, researching and reading anything I can find about carnivorous plant dormancy. I understand what needs to happen. But I’m only concerned because I just purchased my Venus flytrap (from a reputable online carnivorous plant nursery) and acclimated it to being outdoors, I’m not sure of its age and I’m concerned about dormancy. Living in Michigan the weather here is changing constantly in the fall (50-70 during the day, 40-50 at night) I’ve left it outside for sun and still keep it in its water tray but I’ve really tried to let it be as much as possible. And am planning to do so until it starts getting below 40 at night time, then I will move it to a basement window. Thing is, It has only caught one fly, (although it WAS a big/meaty one haha) that trap died and I took it off the plant. I am THINKING the plant is beginning to go into dormancy??? (smaller traps near the soil) But I can’t tell and I am terrified to kill it off!! (probably just me being a new/paranoid owner lol) it doesn’t have any more large traps, is it OK to only have that ONE fly, to last it through until spring?? Or should I have kept it indoors this winter and waited until next year to put it through dormancy???

Howdy Nicole, I think you poked me on Instagram where I left you an answer, but answering here will help other folks with the same question. On dormancy: Venus flytraps do great outdoors in many places in the US. It is worth noting that if there will be more than a couple days of freezes where you live, especially if they’re multi-day freezes, it’s definitely worth bringing the plants indoors – same for most North American Pitcher Plants and Sundews found natively in the US. A cool windowsill with natural light is perfect since decreased photoperiod is important for dormancy. Also, make sure to resist the temptation to water your flytrap like you might have during the growing season – drier soil is important to avoid root rot during dormancy. Fluctuations in winter weather, outside of freezes, are fine. I grow my flytraps outdoors in California where we get light frost one day and 75°F+ temperatures the next. And yes, smaller soil-hugging traps can be a sign that your plant is getting ready for a few month nap. On food: Don’t stress this. Your Venus flytrap won’t die during dormancy from a lack a food during vegetative months. The plant will produce nice new traps come springtime and should be able to pick up where it left off, snacking on more flies.

Hello. I picked up a venus fly trap from a grocery store a couple nights ago. We are in the middle of December so I’m thinking this should be the time for dormancy. How do I know if it’s gone through dormancy? The plant has some large fly traps on it as well as a couple small ones the soil is very wet from the grocery store and the leaves seem to be wilted and turning yellow. It also looks like it needs a new pot. Do I wait till next year to let it be dormant it’s a little late in the game now isn’t it?

Sounds like it wasn’t allowed to go dormant – probably through overexposure to light and warm temps. It is late in the season but, depending on where you live, you could still sneak in a 1-1.5 months of dormancy. I’d give it a shot as some dormancy is better than no dormancy.

My sister bought a venus flytrap during September and November is coming up-ish. I live in California,LA and recently its been hot, fresh with sun or cold sometimes but anyways when I came home I saw the plant super dried out and some of the heads looked dead but the stem still was a bright green. Then I think I fcked up by feeding the venus bottle water of course it drinked the water entirely but I tried to put some more but the dirt was already done with water so I took out the extra water. I put it under a Bright as light lamp. So that was yesterday and today is still a bit of green under the head but with some blackish/grey heads but still I see some open up mouth. I have not feed it because it I just got here yesterday night and today I haven’t seen a stupid fly when usually I see them all the time. Now I’m thinking that it’s going into hibernation way to early. By the way it’s our first venus flytrap. Main point is WHAT DO I DO? Because some of my family members don’t really care so they decided not to look into it.

Hey Angie – it’s a bit early for the flytrap’s winter nap, so the crispy leaves are likely not the result of dormancy. It sounds like the plant may have dried out a bit too much and that may have damaged it. If there is fresh green growth, you can likely save it. Just keep in in a shallow tray/saucer of reverse osmosis, or very pure water, at all times. The soil will soak it up, and when you see the water getting low, refill the tray.

Is well water good enough for flycatchers?

Not if the well water is high in mineral content. Get reverse osmosis water or distilled water.

Hi Mr.David! I just got a slightly dead looking Venus at Lowe’s. It looks like a fairly new plant but looks like it needs some TLC. Got any tips?

P.S when does it start dormancy?

Howdy Alandra! Just follow everything in this guide! Maybe poor a good amount of reverse osmosis or rainwater over the top of the soil to flush out any mineral build up that there might be from Lowe’s watering with tap water. Exact dormancy timing depends on where you live, but here in Southern California, the flytraps that I grow outdoors naturally go dormant around early November.

Thanks so much for the response!!! And yup that was me on Instagram haha. I feel much better after reading this, I think I’m just nervous since it’s my first time dealing with dormancy, so thanks for all the great info :)

You’re very welcome, Nicole. Here’s hoping that Carnivorous Plant Resource continues to be a place to feed your fascination and learn! Let me know if you have more questions.

Good morning David I’m very excited to own my new baby, 2 Venus Fly Traps & Picture plants. It has Been about a week now & the babies look great. Can I wait until next fall for dormacy? They are just babies & have not grown to the adult size. I live in New England near Boston, but I have Wilmington NC weather on my cell to fallow its natural habitat. Yes I’m a very happy beginner & educating myself as much as I can. Thank you so much for info & time to respond.

Congrats on your new plants, and welcome to the carnivorous plant club, Suzie! On your dormancy question – generally speaking, I’ve noticed that fresh seedlings will be fine for a single season without dormancy. Anything beyond this, and skipping dormancy does weaken the plant. A Venus flytrap or pitcher plant may not die in one season without dormancy, but they definitely won’t be as healthy and are likely to produce lackluster growth. I know it may be painful to watch the plants go to sleep for a few months after just acquiring them, but I promise that they’ll come back bigger and more beautiful in the spring!

I am growing a venus flytrap and pitcher plant from a bulb from this territanium kit that I got at Lowe’s. The pitcher plant still hasn’t grown its pitcher and the flytrap should have grown traps by now. I’ve been taking care of them for weeks now. Help!!!

Howdy Grace, don’t stress it – the plants are likely still dormant. Both Venus flytraps and pitcher plants require bright sunlight, warmer spring weather, and the usual purified water to encourage them to wake out of dormancy. If you’re located in a place with a cooler climate, they may still be sleeping. If you’re in a warmer climate, and the plants haven’t shown any signs of life, there may be other issues, but it’s hard to tell without seeing any photos. Feel free to use the contact form here to send me photos if you’d like additional help troubleshooting.

I bought that same kit from Lowe’s and with the warm weather of Florida it took about a month for one of my kits but the other one I bought saw growth in a few days. Really depends on the plant. Give it time and I’m sure it will wake up.

Hi y’all. I really like the website – very informative and great pics. Just wondering … do you need to fertilize the soil the flytrap is in like a regular plant? Does it need to re-potted like a regular houseplant after it grows a bit? or even right after buying? The little cups they come in look so tiny, I’d think it’d need a bigger pot after awhile. Also can you put it in a regular pot and then sit the pot in a couple of inches of water, or would that keep the soil too soggy? Sorry for all the questions, but I’m thinking about getting one of these, but want to know what I”m in for before I invest time and money. Thanks a bunch!!

Howdy Kate, and thanks for the kind words! DO NOT fertilize your flytrap soil. Fertilizer will harm or kill a Venus flytrap. Catching bugs will provide all the nutrients your flytrap needs. You can repot your flytrap during its winter dormancy – I like to do this about every 1-2 years. They have relatively small root systems, so really big pots aren’t necessary, but they do enjoy a fresh mix of soil and a little room to spread out as they divide into more plants. A plastic or ceramic pot in a couple inches of reverse osmosis or rain water is the perfect approach – remember, they naturally thrive in bog conditions. You should totally pick one up – it’s the best (and most fun) way to learn. Let me know if you have more questions!

What is the max temp that a VFT can handle? I live in Southern California and am considering keeping mine outside but it can reach well over 100° during the summer months. Winter months it will reach a low of 40° at night, with daytime temps usually staying in the 50s and 60s.

Hi Teri – I also live in Southern California, and grow my flytraps outside year-round. They can handle days into 100°+ weather, but you wouldn’t want to make that the norm. Winter temperatures aren’t an issue.

I am near St Louis zone 4-5 and purchased a Fly Trap I have other plants that I overwinter in my basement but I am concerned that it may not get cold enough in the basement for the Fly Trap what would the warmest temp it could handle? Outside generally hovers around 30 degrees basement temp is around 60.

Hey there Dynel,

60 deg. is a little warm to be hibernating your plant. I recommend temps of at most 50 degrees, and 40 thru 30 is a surer bet that your plant is happily dormant (given that it’s the correct time of year for it).

If you can, find a window with enough sill to place the pot on, and put your flytrap there. Make sure that the pot is in contact with the window pane itself so that it gets cold enough.

If that fails, you can keep your plant indoors, dormant in the basement, until temperatures outside regularly are above 20 or so degrees. At this point it’ll be fine to put your plant outside without too much worry. What you really want to look out for in your zone are heavy freezes below 20 degrees. If these freezes are irregular and you have a generally 20+ degree winter, all you may need to do is protect your plant during those extreme temperature drops, probably by taking it indoors and keeping it as cool as possible. If you want to keep your plant outside all year, you can place the plant next to a wall of your house and mulch it under woodchips, straw, or shredded leaves after spraying it with a good dose of sulfur-based fungicide. This should insulate is securely, and is a good idea for larger collections where you don’t want to take everything inside.

There are folks out there who’ve tried refrigerating their plants, especially in warmer climes like Southeast Asia and Central America. If all else fails you can try to do this. I regret to say I am yet unexperienced with how to overwinter plants in the lower temperature zones, so the information I can give is pretty general at best. That being said, the solutions I’ve offered are probably the most popular ones for people in your zone. -Carson

Hi. I’m super new to carnivorous plants. My teen daughter begged me for a baby VFT she saw on Amazon. ( I know, I know. Probably not the best quality.) It came in a glass bottle with blue gel. We weren’t supposed to open the bottle or water it until the gel disappeared. While we were on vacation, my mother-in-law watered it. It now has mold growing on it. Please help! My daughter is distraught and I feel bad that this tiny little plant may die. Do you think we can save it? Should I cut the mold off? Plant it in a pot? What should I do? The traps are so tiny , they’re almost not visible.

Howdy Amy! The gel is an agar used to grow the plants from tissue culture. If it has been exposed to the air or water, and is contaminated, you should remove the flytrap and pot it up just as you would any other flytrap. Keep it covered in a plastic bag or something to keep it very humid to reduce water loss as it develops roots. After a few weeks, start to let in more and more fresh air every day until you can remove the bag entirely. Good luck and happy growing!

Any updates on the little baby fly trap? I hope it lived!

I recent bought 3 baby venus fly traps (they’re in the mail!). I live in Zone 5. What are my options for dormancy? It gets far too cold to keep them outside, and they seem too young to go dormant. If I skip this dormancy period, will it harm the plant? Thanks!

Howdy Lola – congrats on your new flytraps! A reduction in day length/light combined with cooler days will help trigger dormancy. Some folks will bring their flytraps inside and keep them on a chilly windowsill. I’ve also heard of people placing them in refrigerators for winter. You might be able to get away with skipping a single dormancy if the plants are very young, but I’ve never personally tried this, and even let my flytrap seedlings experience a dormancy period.

Another follow up question:

The only way to give my venus fly trap’s enough light is through a grow lamp. What kind of build do you recommend, and how many hours of light do they need? Thanks!

The light requirements will vary based on the time of year – during spring and summer, the plants will enjoy up 20 hours of light a day. During winter, you’ll have to reduce the photoperiod and/or intensity of the light. I recommend LED grow lamps as they are the most efficient – especially if you’ll have them on for long periods of time. There are a ton of decent options out there, so it’s mostly about finding the right one/shape/size for your setup.

Hi, my wife has been on plant collecting kicks. Her most recent buy is a baby venus fly trap! I’ve managed to keep everything else she’s collected alive and am looking to do the same with her fly trap. Learning about the plant has been like no other for sure! I’m concerned for this little guys hibernation, especially since we purchased it the end of September in Florida. I see hibernation is necessary for the plant to thrive. However, reading through the comments I realized Florida just doesn’t get cold enough for this plant to hibernate properly. We rarely have nights that go below the 40s and days that are rarely below 60 degrees. Is this going to cause an issue for this plant? If so, do you have any recommendations on how to handle this? Thank you!

Thanks for reaching out, Rachele! I grow my flytraps in sunny Southern California, and the combination of shorter days + cooler temperatures triggers Venus flytrap dormancy just fine! I wouldn’t worry about it too much in Florida. Come November or December, leaves will start to die back and the plant will only have small green growth at the base of the soil. If this doesn’t happen, you can try putting the plant in your refrigerator for a couple of weeks to kick-start dormancy.

I jus purchased my baby venus today at a local grocery store. It looks to be very healthy there are about 9 to 10 traps on it with more look to be sprouting. It’s in very small plastic container with a a bit of moss I haven’t taken it out yet to see what’s underneath. What do I do now? I read other comments about a tray with water and other info about planning it with moss and Horticultural sand and rocks. I need an inexpensive easy way to take care of this plant if possible. Does the container need to be plastic I have an old coffee can that I could use. I guess now I just need to know what my next step is.

Hi Jana – a thoroughly cleaned coffee can could work. I would still punch a few holes in the bottom and place it in a water tray. Use a mix of peat moss and horticultural sand for your flytrap’s new home.

Hi David! I recently purchased a Venus fly trap at Aldi and plan on keeping it as an office plant. The container that it came in said that the plant could stay in that container or I could put it in a glass terrarium. I just don’t see how any files can get in if it’s closed up. The plastic container it came with does have a few holes at the top. What would you recommend? Is it okay to keep out in the open in an office? I do have good lighting in the office but no natural sun. I could get a grow light if needed. Also, would I need to take it home during dormancy and keep it outside? I live in the North Texas area near Dallas. Thank you so much and I look forward to your response.

Howdy Ty! I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but flytraps don’t normally make good indoor or office plants – they require a lot of strong light to thrive. If you are able to get it enough light indoors, it shouldn’t need a terrarium or humidity dome. Your new buddy will do fine in the open air. I would definitely recommend reducing light and cooler conditions to trigger flytrap dormancy. Think about where these plants are naturally found – North Carolina – and consider the winter conditions they see. Frost/brief freezes, and light dustings of snow shouldn’t harm the plant. The best time to repot your Venus flytrap is during this dormancy period – go with a nice plastic pot around 6″ deep for best growth.

Hi I bought a trap for the first time today and was reading up on them. I loved how informative your post was. I did have a question though. I live in Florida which rarely gets “cold” so how does this affect the winter dormancy and can I do anything to stimulate this so that it stays healthy? Thank you so much for your time.

Howdy Cally, and congrats on your new Venus flytrap! I live is sunny Southern California – where winter is mostly a myth. That said, there are relatively mild dips in temperature and a reduced photoperiod, or hours of sunlight, throughout a winter day. The combination of these trigger dormancy in flytraps, and mine all do so without an issue. If you are concerned that this won’t work, you could always attempt the refrigerator method. Simply place your flytrap inside your refrigerator for a week-or-two during winter to give dormancy hormones a boost. You can then place the plant back outside, and if conditions aren’t crazy warm, the plant should remain dormant until it’s spring and time to wake up.

Hi! I loved the information you provided! Thank you. I do have a question though; I live in New England, CT to be exact, and just bought two small Venus fly traps from the grocery store yesterday. We live in an apartment building. I am wondering what I should do with/to them for right now? Should I leave them in their little plastic homes? Should I take them out? Do I remove the black traps or leave them for right now? Should I transplant them now? Or wait for spring? I’ve never been able to be successful with my traps in the past and I REALLY want to make this work this time around! TIA!

Howdy Dorianne! If you just picked up the plant from the store recently, chances are that it’s not dormant, yet. A dormant Venus flytrap doesn’t look as cool as a non-dormant one, so sometimes nurseries force them out of dormancy so that they look more appealing and sell better. You can remove brown leaves, expose the plant to cooler weather, and when most of the traps have died back and there are only smaller, ground-hugging leaves remaining, you’ll know the plant is dormant. At that time, you can transplant the flytrap while minimizing stress.

If I’m keeping a baby fly trap outside at what temperature is too cold to where I should bring it in?

Howdy Katie! Venus flytraps do fine in brief freezes and light snow. They naturally grow in South Carolina, so use their conditions as a barometer. Colder than this (prolonged freezes or regular or heavy snow) will be too much for your flytrap.

I just ordered a baby in a bulb with gel. It says to transplant in a month. That’ll be the beginning of Feb. Should I put the little gel terrarium in the fridge or in a window & let it start it’s thing? I hadn’t even thought about it being winter when I ordered. It’s one of the little blue gel ones by Bloomify. Should I cancel my order til spring?

Hello! I got a small Venus fly trap back at the end of September, and it is now the start of December and my plant is not exactly dormant ? I live in Ireland – our weather isn’t extremely hot or extremely cold, the temperatures are starting to drop a good bit now though. There’s new leaves growing, the older ones look a bit brown and a one or two of the leaves went dormant in October/ November. Is there something I did to disturb it’s dormancy ?

Howdy Laoise! It’s hard to say without knowing more details about your conditions, but as long as you receive temperatures around 15°C and a shorter photoperoid/daylight, that should be enough to trigger dormancy in your flytraps.

Hello, I recently got a Venus fly trap which is still a baby but isn’t quite a seedling. I actually received my Venus fly trap for Christmas so that’s the end of December basically, should I put them through winter dormancy? I think I should however I just wanted to know if I can put my plant outside on my window ledge (I live on the second floor) and would that be enough for its winter dormancy?

Howdy John, In their first year of life, flytraps can skip a dormancy. Any plants older than a year will appreciate dormancy. As long as your most extreme winter conditions consist of brief freezes and the rare dusting of snow, you should be in good shape putting the plant outside. If conditions get colder than that, you may be able to trigger dormancy in a cool windowsill or even by putting the plant in your refrigerator for a few weeks to kickstart the process.

hello! first time venus flytrap caretaker, and really in love with them. I first found out about their dormancy period with my first plant Eartha, who I thought I killed when I went away for a weekend and left her in my backyard while it rained all weekend. ( I live in southern ca and we got some early cold rain last nov.) I came home and she was black and I thought, dying. I read up and learned she could have gone into hibernation, so I didnt throw her out, just kept her in her pot ( i had also just repotted her before I left, in a self watering planter.) I wasn’t sure if she was ok, there were times when I thought i should throw her out. I even bought three new plants ( Thelma, Louise, and Aretha) in case i had to replace her. but I am happy to announce it is now early feb, and i see some green stems coming out of the soil. pretty exciting to see her again.

so now, with my three new plants, they are still very full of traps and growing more. I had them indoors for a while,when Eartha was still hibernating and I thought the outdoor weather had killed her. I have since put them outside and let them get some sun for a good few hours a day before I move them to a shadier spot. its not that cold around here. we have been in the 60s and 70s and i really dont see it getting much colder for our winter season. have these three plants missed their dormancy period? what I do if that is the case?

Sounds like you may have missed the boat on dormancy for your other flytraps. Growth may slow down for them this season, as a result, so don’t be surprised if they stall out at some point. Just care for them as usual and make sure your flytraps get a good dormancy this winter. By the way, I live in Southern California as well, and I grow my flytraps outside. The shorter and cooler days, even here, trigger dormancy in my plants. Because of the mild winter we’ve had, I’m already noticing new season growth in my plants. I would recommend against growing flytraps indoors unless you have them under grow lights.

so i just started growing my venus flytraps and there just babies.so i was wondering when should i start feeding them ??

Howdy Raheen! You can start feeding your flytraps as soon as their traps are large enough to handle food. Generally, you don’t want a trap to be more than 1/3 to 1/2 full, otherwise it may not seal properly and could rot before it’s able to digest much of the prey.

I was reading about the importance of dormancy in the winter on your page. I didn’t know it was important for the plant to go dormant. I live in alaska and we only get 6 hrs of daylight in the winter and I kept my plant in a cold room by the window and it didn’t go dormant. It kept growing. It has started to grow a flower (which I’ll cut off) and now it is growing babies! I am shocked it has been growing like crazy during winter like this. So it isn’t okay for the plant if it never goes dormant? What do I do about jt? Also do I let the baby grow for a while before transplanting it?

Howdy Becca! Dormancy is important for flytraps. If the plant didn’t go dormant last winter, then you’ll have to take good care of it during spring to maintain health until it can take a nap this following winter. Generally speaking, cooler weather and shorter days will automatically trigger dormancy in a flytrap, and I imagine 6 hour days in Alaska would do the trick. Not really sure why yours skipped a dormancy, but either way, you can place it in the refrigerator for a few weeks this winter to kickstart dormancy should it not happen naturally. Don’t let it miss another dormancy, as it may weaken the plant to the point of death. On the offshoots/babies – I’d leave them on until winter dormancy when removing them will be less stressful on the young plants.

Hello. Great web site. I bought two B52’s last summer and have successfully grown them indoor under the strong H/O light 16 hours a day. I live in a NYC apartment w/ no access to any type of outdoor gardening area.

In the beginning of Dec 2020, they went dormant in the vegetable tray in my refrigerator per the seller’s instruction. I checked once every month to see if they were still alive. Luckily, they were doing well.

This week (2/22/2021) I brought them out and repotted them in the same 6″ pot and placed it under the same light I used. I used NZ Spag. Moss. All but a few leaves are blackened. Rhizome is hard, large and looked healthy.

It’s been 4 days as of this writing and there is no sign of new leaves. Few green leaves are still green but shows no strength at all. The moss is still moistened but the blackened leaves are drying out.

How long does it take for a plant to awake completely out of its dormancy?

Howdy Thomas! It can take weeks for them to really start coming back to life, so don’t stress it. Even my flytraps in warm Southern California still haven’t fully woken up, and they’re right alongside Sarracenia that are already flowering.

Hi Dave, I have a question. I have had my fly trap for about 6 months and it looks really pitiful. It seems to have grown really close to the top of the soil and doesn’t have any color to it. It has 2 long stems with little ball like things on top. What do I need to do besides throwing it out. It’s still a bright green

Howdy Vi – flytraps die back and go dormant during winter months, so that’s probably why your plant doesn’t look to be in tip-top shape. That said, it sounds like you’ve taken good care of it because the stems with little balls on the end are flowering stalks! If the plant looks a little weak, letting it flower will continue to weaken it. You can snip the stalk and the plant will redirect that energy into growing more, larger traps as spring approaches. If your flytrap was in good health leading into winter, flowering may not weaken it much and you can enjoy the show, and even pollinate the flowers to get some seeds!

I recently purchased a Venus Flytrap. I live in Northeast Mississippi. My plant has 6 healthy traps and several small ones close to soil. I purchased at Walmart so it’s in plastic container. I’m trying to figure out what zone I’m in. Also how do I safely remove plant from original container without causing harm to it? I have a small type flower pot with the bottom being a water tray built in. I’m trying to figure out if I can plant it there and only add distilled water in as needed. I wouldn’t be sitting in water. I’m a beginner and love my new plant…but I definitely don’t know much. I’m trying to read as much information as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Howdy, Kelly! You should be somewhere between zones 7-9. As far as flytrap removal – just press in on the sides of the plastic pot to loosen the soil a bit, flip it upside down over your hand, and give it a little shake until it plops out into your hand. Go with a plastic pot, if you have it. -Just make sure to avoid terracotta/clay pots as minerals from these materials leach into the soil and will harm the flytraps. Keep water in the saucer to keep soil moist at all times, and you should be golden!

Hi, I just started growing three venus fly trap from schnucks and at first I didn’t know about what they can have. So I water my first one with tap water but it was growing still and some of them were down. I found it out they go in dormancy. The other two I bought at the same time, one of them are showing signs of yellow but I haven’t water it with tap water. What if they already came out of dormancy when I haven’t had the chance to repot them. Will it affect if I repot since the ones that are on the bottom are getting crush by the ones that are on top. Including the plastic pot it was in. Ps. I stopped watering the first one with tap water so now I water them with distilled water

Howdy Yuki! Repotting flytraps is best done during dormancy, but I’ve noticed that they’re pretty adaptable to being repotted outside of dormancy, also. If you have a flytrap that’s being crushed or smashed by other plants, it’s probably worth repotting them even outside of dormancy.

Hi I just got a fly trap for my early birthday gift from Home Depot and it says to put in the pot a mix of sand and “sphagnum moss” and I was wondering if that would be ok for the soil. also how much water it should get it’s quite small and I don’t want to drown it. And I live in Iowa so it can get super cold during the winter and get up to around 80 or 90 in the summer should I worry about the temperature? (Thanks in advance for any answers you can get me)

Howdy Eric, check out this full page writeup on Venus flytraps – it includes soil mix and watering routine, etc, towards the bottom of the page: https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/venus-flytrap/ Short answer: a mix of about 3/4 peat moss and 1/4 perlite will be your best, easiest bet!

I also am wondering about what soil medium should be ? I got a fly trap almost a year ago , dried sphagnum which needed to be soaked in water , also a plastic pot with slots from bottom to almost an inch from top , instructions said to wrap wet sphagnum around roots of plant , fill pot with plant which is wrapped and fill pot with remaing sphagnum. Fill container with about 1 inch of distelled water , plant has done well , didn’t go into dormancy ( but after reading your answers ) I now know the importance of dormancy and will do that this November . Just again not sure how wet moss should be and if there should be some sort of soil ? I live in R.I. and will be acclimating my fly trap soon to live outdoors this summer . Plant seems to be to wet ? Sorry for such a long question . Thank you

Howdy Lu, check out this full page writeup on Venus flytraps – it includes soil mix and watering routine, etc, towards the bottom of the page: https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/venus-flytrap/ Short answer: a mix of about 3/4 peat moss and 1/4 perlite will be your best, easiest bet! Use the tray method of watering – place your plant in a small water tray/saucer about 1″ deep with water. When the water gets low, refill. Rinse, repeat!

Hey there David! Thanks for all the info, I just read through all of the Q&As and think I have a good grasp on what I need to do. I just got a tiny baby flytrap from a grocery store the other day, and it’s still in its plastic dome and away from the window sill. I’m in Oregon (idk what the zone is though) but I don’t have any outdoor space at all- just my one tiny window sill that is already full of plants that I try to rotate around my room. Any advice?

Also just to clarify- it should be watered from the base or something? I’ve read that it should sit in an inch or so of standing water but I can’t picture it. Is it different than a normal plastic pot with a plastic plate like thing to sit on? How does it soak up the water from the bottom of the soil is well draining?

Howdy Robyn! We work with what we have, right? Just make sure that your flytrap is getting as much light as possible in your windowsill. Supplemental grow lights are always an option, too. And yes, a common water saucer/tray should work a-ok for watering your flytrap. The planting medium should be a mix of mostly peat, and sometimes some perlite and/or horticultural sand. The peat will help wick up water from the tray. Just stay away from unglazed ceramic trays, as they will leach harmful minerals into your flytrap’s water. Happy growing!

Such great information on this page! I have a quick question. I picked a tiny 2.5” fly trap up from the local nursery and it looks pretty tough. All long leaves and no traps yet. It has been sitting in a greenhouse at the nursery, no direct sun. With it being this young, should I start off with indirect light and slowly acclimate it to direct sun as it grows, or does it need a lot of sun now? It already seems fragile (I suspect it has been seriously underwatered), so I am terrified of making any mistakes.

Yes! Good call, Jill. Acclimating your flytrap to brighter conditions is the best approach. Dropping it in direct sun after it’s been sitting in shaded conditions will likely roast it. You got this!

I have a question should I or can I transfer my plant to a bigger pot and have it grow bigger or dose it not work like that. Thank you

Yes! To a certain extent. There’s an upper limit on the size a flytrap can get, ruled by genetics. That said, store-bought flytraps tend to come in small pots that they will outgrow. A larger pot will allow for deeper roots, a healthier plant, and, with proper care, will push it to reach that genetic peak.

I just got three plantsvenuesfly trap I live in England butgavethemtapwater can you help

If you give them tap water that is high in minerals, simply flush the soil with an ample amount of reverse osmosis or rainwater. This will pull out excess minerals from the soil, and if done soon after the tap water is used, should prevent most negative side effects.

How do flytraps know how much to eat when grown outdoors? I have read many things that say not.5o overfeed these plants because of energy it takes to digest a single insect.

It’s not really an issue for wild Venus flytraps, as food isn’t so abundant that they’re constantly digesting prey. It also takes 1-2 weeks to digest a catch, so that ultimately limits traps available to catch additional prey. Generally, when people mention not to overfeed your flytrap, it’s because folks like to put something in each and every trap all at once, and that can overwhelm a plant.

Okay thanks.for info. I just put mine outdoors so I was a little worried it would overeat. We have many flies here lately. Indoors one trap caught a fly (it was awesome) I feed each of my other 3 traps one fly a piece. Should not have to worry about eating since the flies we have here but wanted to make sure. Each plant has 8 traps a piece and that is why I worried about the overeatting.

Hello again. I have another question. What would cause a not yet forming trap to be black. The rest of the plant has no.black on it but one of the shoots that is trying to form a trap is black.

Hard to say without knowing your exact growing conditions, but it could be water too high in dissolved solids, sudden environmental change like an increase in sun or heat, etc. Could also just be a fluke!

Hi! I’ve been looking everywhere for this information and can’t seem to find it. My Venus fly trap decided to go dormant not too long ago and is now back growing new leaves. There is only one “mouth” open currently and the rest are still sprouting. My question is: when do I feed it? Do I wait till all of the mouths are open and fully grown or should I feed it now while it’s still growing. I’m scared because I know that eating in itself is a growing process so I don’t want to burn her out but I also don’t want her to starve. I know this article is old so I really appreciate any response! Thanks!

You can feed the first trap of the season! If the Venus flytrap has a good snack early in the season, it should provide energy used for additional, larger growth!

When and how do I remove the traps that have turned black? Also, on a pitcher plant do i remove the ones that have dried and turned brittle?

Thank you, Shannon

Howdy Shannon! On a flytrap, you can wait until the full leaf dies back, and snip it off with some scissors or garden shears. Sometimes I get a little more aggressive and will tear off really old leaves that are barely hanging on. You can remove pitchers from a pitcher plant. My guidance is that, if there’s green left on the leaf, it’s probably providing photosynthetic value to the plant and should be left on. If it’s brown or crispy, it can be removed.

Hello sir, I acquired my flytrap and pitcher plant (sarracenia) from Lowe’s it was already in dormancy. I mistakenly put it in orchid soil from miracle gro, when I realized that it had fertilizer in it I put it in the same pot as my pitcher plant. Did I kill it? How resilient are these plants? Right now I’m keeping it watered and it’s outside all the time. Can you help me

Howdy Patrick. Mistakes happen! If it’s not too late, or if this happens again in the future, remove the plant from the fertilized soil as soon as possible. Flush the plant’s roots with reverse osmosis or rainwater to rinse off as much fertilizer as possible, and repot the flytrap into the correct growing medium. Only time will tell how much damage may have been done to the plant. Don’t be surprised if some leaves start crisping up.

We just got a small Venus flytrap. Your article was very informative. But what kind of container should I put it in? I have seen some articles to say to use an insulated container. Some say not to use glass or a terrarium. Some say to use a mesh type container and leave it in a small bowl of water. Could you tell me the best type of container to transplant my new fly trap into? Do you have a picture or a link that would be helpful?

Secondly, what kind of insects would be the best kind to find? (Flies, ants, spiders?) I have read that some types are harmful to the plant.

Howdy! Thanks for the kind words! Keep it simple with a plastic pot around 6″+ deep that has drainage holes on the bottom. Place this in a shallow 2″ saucer of water and top it up when the level gets low. If you’re in an especially hot environment, a white plastic pot will keep the soil and roots a little cooler. Avoid terra cotta/clay pots as they will leach harmful minerals into the soil. Terrariums are not needed. Humidity, in general, isn’t a necessity, but can contribute to extra vigor. For feeding your Venus flytrap, any insect 1/3 the size of the trap, and smaller should work. Just make sure the insect isn’t so small that it can escape between the cilia/”teeth” when the trap is closed. No insects are harmful to the plant unless they can chew their way out of the trap. Happy growing!

Hi, thanks for all the info. I’m a beginner with the Venus fly trap and I’ve just had two delivered. What I’m wondering is so they need to be repotted? They are small plants and the pots are tiny. I don’t want to damage them by repotting if it’s not needed. Thanks

Howdy Deirdre! If your flytraps came potted, I would wait until winter dormancy to repot them. It should reduce overall stress on the plants, and set them up for optimal spring growth.

Hi, David! This was a great read, and very helpful. I read every last comment and response as well, so I feel pretty prepared to try to keep my lil Aldi VFT alive. I have a couple of questions that I did not see addressed, if that’s okay!

1. I am in St. Louis. So our winter will be mostly fine for the VFT, with maybe a stretch or two with too much snow/too low of temps. What if I got a glass terrarium-type structure, smallish (like maybe 8″ tall) and kept my little guy in there on my back porch all winter? Would this be enough to protect from snow/below-20 temps? I think I’d want one where I could keep a side open most of the winter to prevent too much warming/humidity. Or do you think I should just put the plain plant out by itself and just bring it to my garage or basement during those snow/freezing times?

2. I am ready to keep a tray of distilled water under my VFT at all times to keep it happy…. except I don’t think I read anything about how to change this up for winter? I read that it shouldn’t be watered as much, and the soil should just be lightly damp… So how would you achieve this? Still with the tray, but only a tiny level of water (instead of .5-1″) in it at all times? Or no standing water, just a brief watering (from below) once every week or two?

3. My Aldi “pot” is just a 2.5″ black plastic thing. Am I okay to keep it in this for the year, and wait to repot til next fall?

I think that’s it. I think I’m ready. You have been so very helpful to so very many people on here. Add me to that group! Thank you!

Howdy Emily, 1. A terrarium will act like a mini greenhouse for your flytrap, and will generate and retain some warmth when sunlight can reach it. This can definitely act as a buffer from the cold, but without having attempted the technique myself, I’m not sure how much of a buffer. Really cold nights will probably chew through the retained warmth fairly quickly. The safest bet would be to bring the flytraps inside during long or extremely cold freezes. 2. A little standing water is fine during the winter, but you definitely want your tray to dry out in-between waterings. Your soil will lose less moisture to heat-driven evaporation, so less water less frequently will be needed. Feel it out. The plant should be ok with a little over or a little under watering until you can determine the right amount to provide during different weather conditions. 3. 2.5″ is a little small, and flytraps do benefit from a yearly repotting into fresh media. I recommend using this winter dormancy as a good time to upgrade it’s home!

Thanks for the great info! I’m new to Carnivorous plants, and looking for some advice around dormancy. I got a vft around a month or two ago, repotted it with carnivirous soil mix of perlite and peat moss, and i think its doing well ! I live in Norristown, PA (Zone 7), in an apartment with a small balcony, and leave the plant outside at all times. I woudl like to leave it outside during dormancy as well, since i dont really have anywhere inside i could keep (i.e, i dont have a garage or a basement). do you have any recommendations of what i can do? My initial thought was a cold frame but im having a hard time finding one. Thanks in advance!!

Venus flytraps do ok during brief freezes, but if there’s going to be a prolonged or very cold freeze, I recommend bringing it inside. A windowsill should be fine. Some folks even put them in their refrigerators during dormancy! You can attempt a small outdoor terrarium or cold frame, but without a good amount of air volume within it, and without proper insulation, I’m not sure how well it will stave off a prolonged freeze. Burying the flytrap in mulch may also provide an additional layer of insulation outdoors – just be ready to unbury it come warmer weather and spring growth!

Hi, I live in the tropics and recently got a VFT, I’m planning to use the refrigerator method for the dormancy period, my question is, if I put the plant doesn’t go dormant and I put it in the fridge, will it die?

Howdy, Anil! Your flytrap likely won’t go dormant until you put it in the refrigerator. They required colder weather and shorter photoperiods (less sunlight per day) in order to trigger dormancy. Without these conditions, the plant will attempt to continue growing, weaken over time, and ultimately die.

You said your live in SoCal so do i I’m in Northridge,Ca i have 4 they about to go to sleep for dormacy you know the weather rite now is BiPolar up the you know what. Should i have them inside what you recommend.

I grow all of my temperate plants that require a dormancy outside, and they do a-ok! You should be fine leaving them outside.

Aloha David, I live on Maui and have a lanai that faces West and due to a wall on the south side, I only get direct sunlight in the afternoon. Temperature ranges from high 80s to low 70s in the summer and low 80s to mid 50s during the winter. I got a vft in your typical 3″ pot from my local Safeway about a week ago and before reading anything about it, I gave it a few shots from a spray bottle of filtered water. I know, read before doing anything. Anyway, after finding this site I bought a jug of distilled water and gave it a bath. It seems to have liked it because the growth perked up even though it was indoors getting light through a screen door. Since I haven’t been able to get to a place to see about getting supplies locally yet I just put it in a shallow dish that I put enough water in keep the top of the soil damp, usually a couple of times a day. Here’s the part that has me wondering what’s going on. Before putting the plant outside, it started putting out some new growth. A new leaf and little stalk. After a few days I put it outside on the lanai and in the last few days the leaf has developed nicely and the stalk has grown a couple of inches! I’m guessing it will eventually flower and go to seed. Today, I poked some holes in the top of the soil to promote drainage and found several little leaves that were just about to stick their heads above ground. Since its November and it should be thinking about going dormant, if it will in this tropical climate, why it acting like it is spring and how should I deal with that? My next step will be to get a larger pot and soil following your recommendations to repot. The largest trap part of the leaves is about 1/2″ from front to back. How large should I expect the leaves to get after repotting and what should I do about the flowering stem if anything? Lots more to ask but this should get me started. Mahalo in advance for your advice.

Aloha Bob and thanks for reaching out! Flytraps, being temperate plants, might be a little trickier in tropical climates. Mid 50s and shorter daylight should, theoretically, trigger dormancy, but your plant might need a nudge. If you find that it’s late November and it’s still humming along without taking its yearly nap, throw it in your refrigerator for a few weeks, and that should do the trick. Once dormant, you can either leave it in the fridge until early February, or try putting it back outside if the weather is cool. Different cultivars or varieties of flytraps grow to different sizes, so it’s hard for me to guess the exact size that your plant will max out at. In general, flytraps get about 6 inches around (tip to tip) and 4-6 inches tall. That said, they do divide and can cluster, creating larger clumps of flytraps that will clearly get larger than one lone plant. On larger varieties, the physical trap portion of the leaf tops out at about 2 inches. Flower stalks – I recommend snipping them. If your plant is very healthy and well-established, they’re not a problem, but if the plant is young or has taken a beating, they can literally flower themselves to death. A Safeway-bought plant probably came from some fairly harsh conditions, so I’d recommend snipping any flowers early so that it can put that energy towards leaf production and trap and root growth.

Hello. I just got my venus fly trap (2nd one first died) . I live in arizona so there’s plenty of sunlight ,but it gets pretty cold nighttime .From one of your answers I read that as long as its not freezing cold the plant will be ok outside , does that goes for arizona too since the temperature fluctuate so much day/night? Also its november but im pretty sure it needs to be re-potted , it has a lot of little ones but it looks as if the plant is trying to run and the plant with the soul is coming out of the pott, so yes on re-potting? Last question , since the traps all are very small is saw this spray on amazon thats good for smaller venus fly traps , so you recommend it ? I think my first plant died due to lack of bugs. Oh and is it bad to move the plant in and out?

Day/night temperature fluctuations should be ok for flytraps. Flytraps should be dormant or nearing dormancy during November, so feel free to repot it during that time. I don’t know what spray you’re referring to, but it’s almost certainly a “no” – especially if it’s a fertilizer. I recommend against fertilizers for beginners growing flytraps as you can very easily harm your plant.

I fed it a mealworm it closed yesterday today it’s open with mealworm still in mouth. Why?

Hey Margaret!

I’m guessing you may not have stimulated the hairs after the trap closed, in order to fully seal it. The traps require their hairs to be triggered after closing (naturally, it would be fed live insects which would struggle to escape), to avoid trying to digest random debris. Next time, once you have placed the mealworm inside the trap, and it has closed, try gently poking a toothpick in between the teeth and wiggling it around until you’re sure you’ve triggered the hairs.

I bought a Venus Flytrap DCXL earlier this summer, and it seems to have done great. It has grown new traps, with very few dieing and they have all been pretty green the whole time. I have several questions, with dormancy arriving. I live in PA, so even though I obviously wouldn’t go outside in a T-Shirt, it is not freezing cold or even frequent snow. I am trying to decide where to keep my plant (which I still keep in it’s original plastic pot and I have been watering it using a plastic tray) for the Winter. I have considered the following: 1. Outside during the day, inside overnight – This would get more sunlight, but I don’t know if it would like the temperature, which would be colder than the rest of the year, but not freezing (if it was snowing, freezing, or raining I would bring it in for the day) 2. Garage – This would obviously be not quite as cold as outside, but it also has no good places that get much sunlight 3. Inside – I could probably find a window that gets at least some sunlight. Most windows in my house are above the heaters, which is not good during winter (since that is when they are turned on), so they may not get as much sunlight as outside. Which of these is best (or do you have another suggestion)? My other question has to do with space. For one thing, my plant has almost a dozen full-size traps (one actually grew inside another, so it looks like it’s eating itself!). It also had a baby, which is obviously not that far away from the parent. Will it end up getting too crowded? Should I try to repot it into either 2 separate pots or a larger pot with the 2 plants farther apart from each other? Or should I just wait and see how it looks after dormancy? I think I killed my previous plant (which was a different variant, but still a Venus Flytrap) during dormancy, so I want to make sure I do the right thing this year. Which idea sounds best, and what should I do for the baby? Thanks.

I know some folks stick who their flytraps in the refrigerator during winter dormancy. I wouldn’t recommend this unless you absolutely need to use this method, but it goes to show how little light they need during dormancy. As long as the photoperiod, or length of the day shortens, and cooler weather prevails, this should trigger dormancy. The garage or a windowsill in a chilly part of the house could work. Outside could even work, but I know PA gets pretty cold, so you’d have to avoid long freezes. During dormancy is the right time to repot. You can spread them out in one pot, or split them up into 2 – it really depends on aesthetic and how you’d like to present your flytraps. In my opinion, it’s easier to care for one pot of many plants than many pots of one plant each. You still get the payoff of having many plants, but it’s less work.

I live in Southern California (during the school year), and it only reaches about 50 degrees at night, mid 70s during the day… It’s December now and my plant has not entered dormancy. I think the temperatures might be too high? Back home (midwest), while I was there year-round, the cycle seemed healthy while it sat inside near a window. I will return home for a month during winter, but I know 3-4 months of dormancy is recommended… Should I worry about somehow simulating a winter environment here? Thanks!

Haha, I’ve read some of the comments up above and the little guy now lives in the fridge! I am now wondering about sunlight. It’s a young plant, and that might be why it’s mostly green, buut I also don’t have a way to leave it outside while on campus and think it might not be getting enough sunlight. The sun shines through the window onto it for ~ 1.5-2 hours a day. It also will only grow four traps at a time (a friend said nutrient-rich soil might reduce trap growth since it has a lesser need to digest whatever it needs, but I don’t know whether that’s true). No real specific question here, I guess… just wondering whether college life is suited for VFTs!

Sunlight isn’t suuuper important during dormancy, but if at all possible, I’d leave it outside. I grow all of my flytraps outside in Orange County in Southern California, and they get enough of a natural dormancy to do just fine! Do NOT give it nutrient rich soil – you’ll fry the root system and kill the plant.

Hi, how great is this page! I am a new VFT owner and find it fascinating. I have about 6 large traps but about 8 tiny traps close to the soil top and just this week a large stalk came up the middle with what looks like a flower forming on the top. My question is what is happening when traps no longer close? I have used a little paint brush to try and stimulate the hairs but some refuse to close. Does this mean they are dead or dormant. Thanks

Hey, thanks for your kind words! During dormancy, or even generally cold weather during the growing season, flytrap traps will slow down or entirely stop snapping up prey. It’s totally normal.

hi I just got my Venus fly trap it’s a 2 inch plant. I live in Oklahoma and I will be growing inside. should I go ahead and stimulate dormancy or is he too small to go dormant? I read online that they should go dormant in the month of December through February is it too late at the end of December to stimulate it?

I would go ahead and simulate dormancy for healthiest spring growth.

Hello David, I received a cute little plant from my daughter for Christmas. It came in a small glass bulb with blue gel in the bottom. It recently has grown a white spot of mildew on the blue gel. And it is spreading. What do I do? The plant it’s self looks great and is growing but I feel like I need to take it out of this glass bulb before it’s gobbled up by this fungus.

If the gel is getting moldy, it’s time to pull your flytrap out of the gel and repot into soil! The mold will only spread, overtake, and likely kill the flytrap.

Hi. My name is Felicia and I wonder if you can help me rescue my venus flytrap. I have it since last year and it was thriving but after flowering it began looking really bad and now it has no good traps …even new leaves seem to grow with a black tip where the trap should be. I believe it is dying but i really hope to rescue it … what can i do? Wish i could send a photo of it. Thank you!

Sorry I didn’t get to your question sooner, but without a photo or more information on how you’re growing the plant, it’s hard to diagnose what’s going wrong. In general, allowing a flytrap to flower will weaken the plant. If your growing conditions are ideal, the energy expended flowering can be mitigated, but if conditions aren’t great, the plant will suffer.

Hi I live in England and have had my fly trap for the past six months or so. It is doing quite well, but is now covered in tiny black dots that I think are mites of some sort. How can i get rid of them without killing the plant?

You can try a pesticide like Avid on flytrap mites: https://www.carnivorousplantresource.com/product/avid-abamectin-0-15-ec-miticide-2-fl-oz/

I purchased a VFT online and it came in a small bottle, corked, and the plant was in a gel base. I thought it was a joke. I did remove the cork to “feel” if it was a real plant. BUT, then started googling information and it sounds like this is the way it was supposed to come!!! So, now what? Did I kill it?? I’m kind of sad now…

You likely let in contaminants when you uncorked the plant. That gel is called agar and is a growing medium with precisely controlled nutrients mixed in with it. Unless kept perfectly sterile, it’s a breeding ground for fungus and mold. I’d pull out the flytrap and repot it into soil before it’s overtaken by these.

Hi David! My local Lowe’s just got a shipment of vfts from Gubler Orchids, and they look great. There were at least 3 different cultivars available, and I think I got a super healthy B-52, huge traps and deep red color. I’d love it if they’d get some Sarrs in stock, but I’m in central AZ so probably won’t happen. Your info on acclimating a new plant is very helpful, thank you! I see that you’re also a Halloween enthusiast. I’ve been doing a large yard haunt for 10+ years. Lots of fun!

Nice! I hope your flytraps are doing well, Gary! We finally did a “pro” haunt in Orange County, CA in 2022 ( https://prismhauntedhouse.com ). It was a ton of fun, but I still feel like I’m recovering from the efforts. In 2023 we went back to the home haunt, but we’re planning some big stuff this season!

Wow! I am amazed at the depth of your knowledge on these carnivorous plants! I’m sure somewhere in this blog you have already answered this but here goes… I bought a Venus fly trap from Trader Joe’s last year and think it’s the neatest thing. However, since winter it has not produced any new heads and the tips of the three sprouts are a little black (like the heads when they die). I feed this plant only water from our Osmosis. Any suggestions on how to make this plant thrive again?

Winter time = dormancy. Dormancy = stalled growth and the death of some of last year’s leaves/traps. Come warmer weather and longer Spring time days, the plant should pop back to life and produce new healthy growth.

Hello, I was just gifted a Venus flytrap by my roommate who knows I think they are really cool. I’ve done some research on how to care for them and found this article really helpful. I was hoping to also find out if I need to repot the flytrap from the store container. It’s potted with a mixture of soil and moss from what I can tell without pulling it out but I’m worried about the mineral buildup because I know the store she got them from does use tap water and my roommate watered it when she got home before giving it to me also with tap water. I also live in a colder climate on a coast and I’m not sure how I should go about accommodating the flytrap because summers can have really scorching days with very cold nights and with long stretches’ of lots of rain. So much rain. Never ending rain with lots of grey sky’s that can last for weeks straight before having really hot days with cold nights and then more rain for weeks. Any suggestions you have will be very greatly apricated.

What a gift! You have a great friend! If the soil has been watered with high-mineral tap water, you can either flush it a handful of times with better water or repot it entirely. Flushing it would just involve overhead watering the soil until water runs through the holes in the bottom of the pot. This should leach a lot of the minerals out. Flytraps grow natively in North Carolina. They’re bog plants, so they’ll appreciate rain. I live in Southern California with temps into the 100’s Fahrenheit and evenings into the low 40’s or cooler during winter. Temperature fluctuations are generally ok.

Mine is a red dragon. How do I grow it?

Read the article and let me know if you have specific questions.

I just purchased mine, it’s quite small, I was told to repot it immediately, is that a good or bad choice?

In general, repot during winter dormancy into a 60/40 mix of peat moss and perlite. If the plant was previously watered with tap water (as often happens when the plant sits at a nursery), either flush the soil with distilled or reverse osmosis water until water drains out of the holes in the bottom of the pot or repot it immediately.

Hello. I don’t have a clue what winter or summer is like in North Carolina and I only have read about bogs. I live in a desert. It is 24 F today and it reaches 112F or more in the summer. Can it survive?

112F is going to push it. My plants have survived hitting these temperatures briefly in Southern California, but if this is sustained, the plants will suffer. Try keeping them in the shade or bringing them inside on extra hot days.

Ii live in N.Y. I just received my fly trap . Should I assume it’s in dormancy? It ilooks healthy and green . Also should I transplant into a larger pot ?

If you received a flytrap in the winter, it’s either dormant or should be dormant. During dormancy is the right time to repot the plant.

Hello! I have just brought my VFT out of dormancy. Is there a rule of thumb on when to feed after coming out of dormancy?

I’d wait until a new trap forms post-dormancy, and feed that trap. Any remaining traps from the prior season are probably on their last legs and may not even close around prey.

I’m confused about the potting situation. If I keep it in my room, how do I go about taking it out of its pot and where do I put it. Can you please explain.

In general, I’d recommend growing it outside as flytraps enjoy very bright conditions. That said, the repotting process is the same indoors as out. Remove the plant from the pot (sometimes you have to flip the pot over and jiggle it until the soil and plant come out), clean off the root system with distilled water, and simply plop it in its preferred growing mix.

Hi, I’m in Louisiana and it’s mid-March. I just ordered my 1st venus flytrap online and it arrived yesterday, coming from new jersey. I am really excited to have my first flytrap plant, and there are 11 traps, and 1 new growth stem w a Lil pod growing. It is in a tiny bit of soil, surrounded by peat moss. It came with a clear cup on top of it. Its in a 3.5″ pot too. I am confused what exactly to do from here. I don’t want to kill it, but all the traps are closed and droopy. Not sure if it’s from being in a dark shipping box a few days, but it came plenty watered… I have it sitting in my windowsill, not direct sunlight tho but plenty bright, and have it plenty watered(i used spring water but just found out not to do that!) I had it sitting on top the cup filled with water but what do I do from here?? Do I replant it? Do i take it out from the peat moss and just put the soil & roots in water? Do I keep the clear cup on top for a fee days for humidity control? I’m really confused. I have many pictures. But they’re drooping and closed. Are they sleeping still from winter?? Please help. Thank you.

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How to Grow and Care for Venus Flytrap Plant

The infamous plant best grown as a houseplant

Annie Burdick is a writer, editor, and gardener who has been covering a range of topics for publications like PEOPLE Magazine, Food & Wine, Apartment Therapy, and MyDomaine for the past several years.

• Propagating
• Overwintering
• Common Pests

The Venus fly trap ( Dionaea muscipula ) is a perennial carnivorous plant, a member of the sundew family well known for consuming small insects. People grow it in part because of its unique and eye-catching look, but mostly because of what it does.

Notoriously difficult to care for, these fickle moisture-lovers can still thrive in your home with the proper knowledge and care.

About Venus Flytrap

The "trap" of a Venus fly trap is actually a modified leaf. A plant can have as many as eight of them arising from flat stems (technically part of the leaf) around a basal rosette.

This leaf/trap consists of two lip-like lobes united by a hinge. Nectar within the trap is the bait that draws an insect in to its death. Once inside, if the insect makes contact with one of the trigger hairs, the trap is sprung: It closes, shutting up the prey inside. After digestion, the "jaws" reopen.

The Spruce / Kara Riley

Venus Fly Trap Care

The Venus fly trap is best grown as an indoor potted houseplant, where it will be more convenient for you to study its strange behavior. It is no harder to care for than many other houseplants, but it does require specific conditions.

Venus fly traps should be placed in a location where it will receive 12 hours of light daily during the growing season from spring to fall. Aim for at least 4 hours of this to be bright, direct sunlight.

It is better to water Venus fly trap with rainwater than tap water. Set up a rain barrel or leave a container outdoors to collect the rainwater. In the absence of rainwater, use distilled water. Avoid watering from the top of the pot and opt to place your Venus fly trap's pot into a small dish of this water, about 1 cm deep per watering.

Fertilizing

Do not fertilize Venus fly traps, as they perform best in soil that is low in nutrients. just like its native bog environment. Venus fly traps get all of their necessary nutrition from sunlight and from insects they consume, and fertilizers will be too harsh and loaded with chemicals for these delicate plants.

Temperature and Humidity

Venus fly traps prefer warm temperatures between 70 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, but can survive temperatures as low as 40 degrees if properly protected. They also prefer humid environments with good air flow, so consider using a humidifier in your space, and running a small fan to keep air moving.

Feeding a Venus Fly Trap

If you live in a location with warm temperatures year-round and are able to grow your Venus fly trap outside, it will catch enough insects to feed itself . When grown indoors, as is more common, you may need to provide it with some meals. However, Venus fly traps won't consume insects until they're healthy and have all of their needs met, so focus first on creating the right growing conditions for a healthy plant.

Once your plant is healthy, you can occasionally provide it with dead or live insects. After gently dropping an insect into the open trap, you'll need to stimulate the trigger hairs to ensure healthy digestion. You can do so using a finger or gently with a toothpick or other tool.

Potting a Venus Fly Trap

Because Venus fly traps can be fickle about their growing conditions, it's essential to know how best to plant them, the type of soil they need, and how often you should be repotting them to keep them thriving. Using more traditional houseplant soils or planting methods can cause your Venus fly trap to die.

What Kind of Soil Is Best?

Venus fly traps thrive in wet, acidic, nutrient-poor soil. You can create that indoors with a 1:1 mixture of peat moss and perlite. A combination of soil mix with peat moss, or horticultural sand with an equal amount of peat moss also works well. Wood-based materials such as bark, sawdust, or wood fiber are good sustainable alternatives to peat moss because they also have a low pH. Just make sure that the wood hasn't been chemically treated. Coir, a sustainable alternative to peat moss, is not suitable because its pH is close to neutral.

Type of Pot

The best type of pot for a Venus fly trap is one made of fiberglass or plastic. Ceramic, glass, and especially terrarium-style containers are best to avoid. The pot doesn't need to be particularly wide, but providing decent depth is helpful. Four inches deep is a minimum, but deeper is better, up to 12 inches.

When to Repot

Venus fly traps grow best if they're repotted every 6-12 months. This provides them with fresh, healthy growing medium, as their containers and soil will have accumulated harmful chemicals, minerals, and weeds naturally over time.

To repot Venus fly trap, follow these detailed instructions .

How to Propagate a Venus Fly Trap

The most dependable method to propagate Venus fly trap is division.

Like some other native species, the wild populations of the Venus fly trap have been drastically reduced due to over-collecting and habitat destruction. This plant should never be wild harvested but instead sourced from nurseries that propagate their own plants.

Overwintering Venus Fly Traps

The plant goes through a period of dormancy beginning in fall when the hours of daylight and sunlight levels decrease. It will lose its leaves and appear to die, but it actually lives on underground through rhizomes . This is normal, and you should not try to make up for the reduction of daylight hours by giving the plant artificial light.

Keep the plant in the coolest room of your home and cut back on the amount of water. Give it just enough water so the soil does not dry out completely. In the early spring when it starts regrowing, resume the regular watering schedule to keep it moist at all times.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Aphids and fungus gnats do occasionally bother Venus fly trap despite it being an insect-eater itself. These pests are too tiny for the plant to capture and eat. Horticultural oil or insecticidal soap can provide some control for a severe aphid infestation. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (BTI) as a natural control for fungus gnats.

Types of Venus Flytraps

• A mature plant will send up offshoots in the early spring. Remove them with a sharp knife or pruners, making sure they include roots.
• Fill pots 4 to 5 inches wide and at least 6 inches deep with fresh peat-based growing medium. Poke a hole in the center of each pot.
• Plant the offshoots in the holes. Water them well and keep the soil evenly moist at all times.
• Place the pot where it will receive indirect light but avoid bright sunlight until the plant begins to develop new roots.

Plant developers have produced many cultivars of this unusual plant. Playing up the bizarre nature of the Venus fly trap, the cultivars sport colorful names. These cultivar names are also often highly descriptive, focusing on a particular feature that distinguishes the cultivar from the many others. Examples include:

• Dionaea 'Petite Dragon' : One of the smallest Venus fly traps, its traps measure just a half of an inch across.
• Dionaea 'Ginormous' : At the other end of the spectrum, this cultivar's traps measure 2.25 inches across.
• Dionaea 'DC All Red' : The greatest distinction between one type of Venus fly trap and another is color-based. Most have traps with at least some green in them, and some are all green. Others can have some combination of red, yellow, green, or purple in them. 'DC All Red' is entirely red.

The trap action is not strong enough to harm you even if you accidentally stick your finger inside. But do resist the temptation to stick your finger into the trap, since this saps the plant of energy that should be reserved for catching and eating insects. The plant is non-toxic to pets .

No! Beyond the small "meat" offered by flies, grasshoppers, spiders, beetles and other small insects, a Venus fly trap can't digest any other food, including other animal products. Being carnivorous doesn't mean it'll eat just anything.

They are only native to North and South Carolina.

David Beaulieu is a landscaping expert and plant photographer, with 20 years of experience.

Dionaea Muscipula . North Carolina State University Extension.

Venus Flytrap. San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance.

Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants: Venus Fly Trap . ASPCA.

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What to Do When Your Venus Flytrap Flowers

Is your Venus flytrap flowering? This article will give you all the details you need to know about the Venus flytrap flowering process.

After reaching maturity, Venus flytraps flower every spring. They produce flower stalks that turn into flower bunches with white petals and green veins. The flowering process drains energy from the plant to focus on reproduction.

The flowering process of Venus flytraps is entirely normal. However, as a new Venus flytrap grower, you should decide if proceeding with the flowering cycle is the right choice. Also, you might be interested in propagating your plant with seeds or through flower stalks. Keep on reading for more information.

The Venus Flytrap Flowering Process

Once a Venus flytrap has reached maturity, usually at about 2-4 years old, it will start producing flowers. Venus flytraps produce flowers during the spring. Usually not too far apart from exiting dormancy.

Venus flytraps produce thick cylindrical structures that are flower stalks. The flower stalks extend to be a lot taller than the traps and eventually turn into flower bunches.

The flowers are not particularly impressive, but they are pretty. They are white and have green veins running through the petals. Observing a Venus flytrap during flowering is unique. Usually most people are just looking to see the traps. Many are impressed when they discover Venus flytraps also produce flowers.

When a Venus flytrap flowers, it produces several flower stalks. Not all at the same time, but through the same period.

Special Care During Flowering

Some Venus flytrap owners have the misconception that Venus flytrap need special care during the flowering process. During the flowering season, there are no additional care instructions. Just continue to care for your plant as you have been doing. The plant might slow down its growth to focus on reproduction, but it should not show signs of struggle.

Should I Cut the Venus Flytrap Flowers Off?

It is a general suggestion to cut the flower stalks off your plant before they grow completely to prevent the flowering process. In this section, I will give you some background information to help you decide if you should cut the flowers off your Venus fly trap. Also, this decision tree can help you:

Does the Flowering Process Kill Venus Flytrap?

Novice growers sometimes believe the flowering process can kill Venus flytraps. However, this assumption is not true.

When a Venus flytrap produces flowers, it spends substantial amounts of energy to focus on reproduction. The flowering process does not kill or harm Venus flytraps. It just drains energy that can be used for other purposes, such as general growth.

When to Stop the Flowering Process

You should cut off the flower stalks before flowering is complete if your plant is weak. Weak or sick Venus flytraps might not withstand going through the whole flowering process. For example, if your plant is recovering from a pest infestation or root rot, it might not be the best time to undergo flowering.

Healthy Venus flytraps produce flowers during the spring, and they continue to thrive through the later seasons. There is no need to skip the flowering process if you are confident your plant is in a good state. When you have kept a plant alive for 1 (or even 2+ years), you have already passed the test. Many people buy carnivorous plants without doing any research, and they end up killing them within weeks.

Is It Ever Too Late to Remove the Stalks?

Sometimes it doesn’t make sense to remove the flower stalks anymore. As most of the process is complete and the plant has already used most of the energy allocated for reproduction. When the flower stalk has already produced a flower bud, it is too late. You can still cut it off and avoid some of the energy drainages of the flowering process. But it won’t make too much of a difference. Or, just let the buds flower and get some fantastic views and pictures of your plant with the flowers.

How to Cut the Venus Flytrap Flowers Off

Do you believe stopping the flowering process is necessary? If the answer is yes, then continue reading to learn how to remove the flowers.

The sooner you remove the flower stalks, the better. Do not wait until they grow tall. Instead, chop them off as quickly as possible. It is easy to identify the flower stalks within the plant due to their shape.

Once you have identified the flower stalk, use a pair of scissors to chop off the stalks from the very bottom. Remove as much of the stem as possible without harming the surrounding leaves of the center bulb. Then, dispose of the flower stalks or attempt to propagate your plant through stalk propagation.

Read the later section for more information on flower stalk propagation!

Venus flytraps produce multiple flower stalks through the season. Keep an eye on your plant for a couple of weeks. Some new flower stalks might start spurring.

What to Do With Venus Flytrap Flowers

Observing a Venus flytrap flower for the first time is exciting. But beyond just watching the flowers, you have the opportunity to propagate your plant. Through the methods below, you will be able to get more Venus flytraps with just a little bit of work.

Harvest Flytrap Seeds

You can harvest seeds from Venus flytraps, even when you have a single plant. In the wild, pollinators play a crucial role in seed production. To harvest seeds from your plant, you will act as a pollinator.

Pollination Instructions

• Let the Venus flytrap flower. The more flower bunches, the better.
• Gather a suitable tool for pollinators. Small paintbrushes or q-tips are appropriate.
• Observe a flower and identify the anther and the stigma. The anther holds the pollen. And the stigma is where the pollen germinates.
• Employ the q-tip or paintbrush to transfer the pollen from the anther to the stigma.
• After pollinating one flower, continue with the rest. It will increase your chances of success.
• Wait a few days to confirm the pollination was successful.

After pollinating, the fertilized flower will exhibit some changes. In the first couple of days, nothing might happen. But after, the flowers will start to dry up and die. This is normal! Just let it wither. Once the flower has dried up, it will leave capsules full of seeds. And you can get multiple seeds from each fertilized flower.

Now, it is time to collect the seeds. Carefully remove the flower remains and open it up to collect the seeds. Preferably, do it indoors. The seeds for Venus flytraps are tiny. Some light breeze can make you lose those seeds. Also, some people use a small Ziploc bag to support the area and prevent any seeds from getting lost or flying away.

The process of pollinating a plant with its own pollen is called self-pollination. Such an approach will produce good seeds. However, cross-pollination tends to make better specimens. Suppose you have more than one Venus flytrap in your home. Consider pollinating one with the pollen of the other.

The Seeds: Storage and Sowing

Now that you have the seeds, you can go ahead and start producing Venus flytrap seedlings. The process is simple:

• Gather a spacious container with drainage. Also, get a tray to go under the container.
• Add a weak fungicide to prevent fungus outbreaks.
• Sow the seeds in the carnivorous plant soil. Sprinkle them around and separate them if possible.
• Press the seeds lightly towards the ground.
• Fill out the tray with distilled water to keep the environment moist.
• Keep the seeds at room temperature with access to sunlight and a humid medium.
• Venus flytrap seeds germinate in 6-8 weeks after sowing.

Also, you do not have to sow the seeds right away. You can wait to sow them in the next week or month. However, if you plan on storing them for a few months, place them under refrigeration.

Venus Flytrap Flower Stalk Propagation

Besides growing Venus flytraps from seeds, you can propagate these plants through stalk propagation. It is possible to attempt this method even if the plant has not flowered. But, the flower stalks have to grow to be successful at stalk propagation.

These are the instructions for Venus flytrap stalk propagation:

• Find a plastic or glazed ceramic pot with drainage. Also, gather a tray or plate to place under the pot.
• Make some carnivorous plant soil with proper aeration and drainage. For example, a 2:1 ratio of peat moss and perlite is a common and effective choice.
• Add distilled water to the soil until it has completely saturated with water.
• Place the humid soil in the pot.
• Add distilled water to the water plate and place the pot right on top. We will be watering this pot from the bottom and keeping a constantly humid environment.
• Wait until the stalks have grown a reasonable size. You can wait until then produce flower buds or when they are midway through growing.
• Use sharp scissors and cut the flower stalk. Cut the stems from as close to the bulb as possible. And cut off the flower bud (if applicable)
• Grab the flower stalk and cut it into smaller sections. For example, a 3-inch stalk cutting is a reasonable size.
• Now, you have two options. Place the cutting vertically and burry half an inch of the stalk underground with the rest sticking out. Or place the stalk cuttings horizontal to the ground and press it against the ground without burying it. Then, push some of the soil to cover the ends of the stalk.

You are all set. Continue to keep the environment humid and place under sunlight. The stalks cuttings start generating roots after a few weeks. Be patient and monitor the progression.

Curious Fact About The Flowers in Venus Flytraps

The Venus flytrap is a unique plant. Its trapping mechanism is one of the most complex ones observed in the plant kingdom. Also, the closing motion of its traps is swift compared to other plant motion. But, not all of its adaptations are focused on the leaves or the trapping mechanism. The flowers have also adapted to provide maximum efficiency.

Have you ever wondered how do Venus flytrap flowers get pollinated? Venus flytrap capture and consume bugs, which are usually the most successful pollinator. Do they rely solely on the wind or rain for pollination? Here is the distinctive explanation:

When you observe a Venus flytrap during the flowering process, you will notice that the traps grow 4-5 inches in length, but the flowers surpass the traps by a considerable height difference. The flowers sit on top, and the leaves stay close to the ground.

The Venus flytrap has evolved to separate its flowers from its leaves to avoid consuming pollinators. The plant keeps pollinators and food at two different levels. This is just another fascinating adaptation of the Venus flytrap.

Recommended Products for Growing Carnivorous Plants

Finding the best pots, lights, and soil for carnivorous plants is difficult. I have grown carnivorous plants for over 5 years, and these are the products I use. The links will take you to Amazon to view the prices and full specs:

Related Questions

Why would a Venus Fly Trap flower in the winter?

Venus flytraps usually flower in the spring. However, they can bloom in any season when the conditions are not similar to their natural habitat. For example, when grown indoors without dormancy, some Venus flytrap flower during the winter. Follow this link to learn more about the dormant period. . Follow this link to learn more about the dormant period. . Also, some plants might produce flowers in unusual times due to sudden changes. For example, when a plant is transported to a different hemisphere, its seasonal clock might be off by a few months.

What do the flowers mean in Venus flytraps?

Venus flytraps only produce flowers when they have reached maturity. It takes the plant 3-4 years to achieve maturity. Then, they produce flowers every single year. The flowers are not a sign of health but a signal the plant is ready to start reproductive functions.

Why do Venus flytrap flowers turn black?

Venus flytrap flowers wither due to two reasons: successful pollination or age. However, the fertilized flower leave seeds behind as they turn black.

My name is Nelly, and I am the owner of Venus Flytrap World. Growing carnivorous plants has been a very unique and rewarding experience for me. A few years ago, I started growing Venus flytraps and experimenting with other carnivorous plant species. I have done tons of research to perfect my setup and care practices. In this site, I share everything I have learned.

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Venus flytrap Care & Growing Guide

Potting, Re-Potting, and Transplanting Venus flytraps

How to expertly pot and repot your venus flytrap.

You should re-pot your Venus flytrap in fresh appropriate growing medium about every 6-12 months. You’ll be amazed at how much better they grow in fresh, clean growing medium. Old growing medium has accumulated minerals and other things such as weeds or carpet moss, and these are not good for your Venus flytrap.

In the below video, Leah talks about how to know when it is time to repot your Venus flytrap.

Types of Growing Medium

You can pot and re-pot your Venus Flytrap in two main types of growing medium:  peat moss (with or without additions), or premium long-fiber sphagnum moss. 

You can find peat moss at most home improvement-type stores, just be sure to get unfertilized peat moss with no additions such as Miracle Gro.  Any minerals added to growing medium will be harmful to your Venus Flytrap. 

You can add other materials to the peat moss to help with aeration and drainage.  The two suitable additions are Perlite, and silica sand.  It is very difficult to find silica sand, so this one is easily and most likely left out.  Perlite is again found at most home improvement stores, so is easily found.   We offer a pre-mixed peat:Perlite:silica sand mix at FlytrapStore if you don’t want to go find all the ingredients yourself or they aren’t available: https://www.flytrapcare.com/store/venus-fly-trap-soil

You can add Perlite to your peat moss at a ratio around 1:4 of Perlite:peat.  If you do find silica sand (NOT play sand or other types of sand), you can add that at the same ratio.

If you are using peat moss, you’ll optimally want to “rinse it” after you pot up your Flytraps, by pouring mineral-free water over the top of your potted plants and letting it drain through and out of the pot’s drainage holes, away from the plant.  Do this the first 3-4 times you do your normal watering after re-potting in new peat moss. This rinses the peat of any minerals it likely has in it. 

As for premium long-fiber sphagnum moss, just make sure it’s premium.  Much of this type of moss sold locally is very poor quality and will turn to mush and harm your Flytrap.  The brand Besgrow sells premium long-fiber sphagnum.  And a few retailers like FlytrapStore offer it too! https://www.flytrapcare.com/store/new-zealand-long-fiber-sphagnum-moss

Peat mixes are advantageous in that they are less costly, and insulate more in extreme heat.  Long-fibered sphagnum is advantageous in that Flytraps grow faster in it and recover from re-potting and transplanting faster in it. 

Some people choose conglomerate growing mediums.  For example, filling the bottom of the pot with peat moss, and  the top with long-fiber sphagnum.  We at FlytrapStore have not noticed any advantage to this, but some people enjoy experimenting.  Just make sure none of the ingredients have the minerals that will harm Venus Flytraps!

Types of Pots

See this article here for information on how to choose a pot for your Venus flytrap: https://www.flytrapcare.com/venus-fly-trap-pots-and-growing-containers

Unpotting your Venus flytrap

In the below video, Matt demonstrates how to unpot, uproot, divide and clean your Venus flytraps in preparation for a repot.

When you remove your Venus flytrap from its current growing medium, your goal is to be careful to not damage the roots or plant. Sometimes this is unavoidable, especially when unpotting from long-fibered sphagnum moss, because the roots are intertwined in it. Do the best you can to gently remove your Venus flytrap from its growing medium while keeping its traps, rhizome, and roots intact.

If you have your Venus flytrap in a smaller pot, gently squeezing the sides of the pot can help to release the growing medium from the sides of the pot so you can shake out your Venus flytrap in one piece.

Gently pull or shake off the old growing medium. Gently clean the rhizome of any old slimy growth. Gently pick off old blackened traps. In general, you want to get your Venus flytrap safely out of its old growing medium, and clean it up nicely.

Potting Technique and Directions (“Brownies & Bundt Cake”)

Potting in peat moss.

To pot in peat moss, first, moisten your mix and distribute the water through the mix.  Peat moss is hydrophobic, so it will take some massaging and movement to get it to absorb the water. 

Next, you can start by filling your pot with growing medium.  Tamp down the bottom 1/3 so its pretty dense and can hold water for longer (dense like a brownie!), but the rest of the growing medium should be looser, firm enough to hold the plant but not tightly packed around the plant.  If you press on the top part of the growing medium it should be somewhat firm but bouncy, like a wet sponge (bouncy like a Bundt cake!).

Next, make a hole in the growing medium about the size of your finger.  You can use your finger, a screwdriver is a great potting tool, too. 

Now, gently guide the roots of your unpotted Flytrap down into the hold, and settle the plant down in the growing medium so that the rhizome “bulb” will be underground but no new baby traps are underground. 

If a Flytrap has been potted too low or was recently Dormant and so has sunk underground a bit, this might mean a bit of white foliage is above ground, and this is OK.  Just make sure the very lowest baby trap is just above ground at top soil level, and the rhizome is underground.

Now, holding the plant in place, with your hands fill in the hole with growing medium. Make sure the hole is completely filled in and the plant is nicely supported without any foliage being trapped underground. Don’t leave any part of the rhizome just hanging loose, like leaving an open-heart surgery open! 

With Dormant Venus flytraps or low-growing rosetted Venus flytraps, this process is harder because the traps can curl around and down and try to make the rhizome pop out of its hole. Just be patient and gently tuck in growing medium under the traps to make sure the rhizome is supported and surrounded with growing medium.

Then with your hands gently level the top of the growing medium.

Finally, spray down the plant to remove any debris, just to keep it clean and fresh.

Potting in Long-Fibered Sphagnum Moss

If you are potting in New Zealand long-fibered sphagnum moss, moisten it and let it sit in water for 15 minutes or so, so that it really puffs up and gets softer.  

Then, fill the bottom 1/3 or so of the pot densely with it so that it holds water longer (brownie!).  Then,  gently wrap a “double taco” of moss around the rhizome, which means apply a taco-shaped bundle of moss to one side, then a taco-shaped bundle of moss on the other side that overlaps the first taco.

You don’t want to wrap around and around the rhizome, because this will trap the rhizome and not allow it to grow appropriately. You want the rhizome covered and supported, but not sealed in very tight. Make sure the rhizome is entirely covered, but not tightly covered or wound-around, and that the traps are above-ground, and held nicely upright by the growing medium.

See this video here for a demonstration of this technique:

You don’t have to use the “double taco” technique exactly, just be sure to support and cover the rhizome without strangling it.

When you cover the rhizome with moss, make sure you haven’t covered any new baby traps with moss. The baby traps are your guide as to where your moss should be placed. You don’t want to cover any baby traps. You want the baby traps above ground, but also not too high above ground, just exactly at above-ground level.

Now that you have your Venus flytrap with a covered rhizome, you’ll want to place it in the pot on top of the “brownie” water-holding bottom 1/3. There will likely be moss hanging down below the covered rhizome, which is good because this provides a nice medium-density middle section of growing medium in the pot. If you don’t have any moss hanging down, you can add a medium-dense bit of moss to the top of the “brownie” before lowering your plant bundle in to the pot.

Optimally, you’ll have 3 layers, the bottom dense portion, the moderate-density middle, and the moderate-density top section that is covering and supporting the rhizome and plant.

Lower the bundle of plant/moss on top of the moss in your pot. The top of the rhizome and the tiny new baby traps should sit nicely even or a bit below the pot rim. If it sits down too low, add some moss to the top of the “brownie.” If it’s too high, gently remove some moss from the bottom of the bundle or from the pot if you had added some filler medium-density moss.

Now with the long-fibered sphagnum moss fill in the sides around the plant bundle that you’ve lowered in, so that it’s supported and generally even on top. A small tip is to use the puffier and wetter moss for this filling-in process, because it is easier to handle. Some moss pieces can be much more strand-like and less puffy, and they’re harder to work with, especially when filling in the open spaces. The puffier and very hydrated pieces are easier to work with.

When you do fill in the other areas, be careful that in doing so you don’t alter the nice placement of your plant at ground-level, for example, don’t accidentally push the plant down too far in the process of filling in the moss. Keep an eye on your plant as you fill in around it and adjust it as needed.

Overall, you do not want to pot your Venus flytrap plant too tightly in the moss – the top two-thirds should be the consistency of a moist cake like Bundt cake or Angel Food Cake – not too densely packed, but also not too airy and unsupportive, and most definitely with the rhizome entirely covered.  The bottom part of the growing medium should be dense, but the top around the rhizome should be bouncier to the touch and allow for horizontal growth of the rhizome.

Finally, do a spot-check and make sure that the rhizome is covered. You’ll have to gently lift up the traps of low-growing rosetted plants or Dormant plants to check. Gently fill in any bits that are needed. Then, do a gentle pressure check across the top of the growing medium to make sure you don’t have any big sinkholes, and fill in as needed.

The last step is to spray the plant, to remove little bits of the long-fibered sphagnum that have surely found their way to the surface of your Venus flytrap plant. These bits don’t do any harm, except for maybe keeping some UV light from getting to the plant. This step is mostly for appearance’s sake. A fresh and clean repotted Venus Flyrap!

Potting Multiple Plants with your Venus flytrap

You can pot multiple Venus flytrap plants in one pot, just be sure to give them some horizontal growth room, about 3″ periphery at minimum. 

You should only pot Flytraps and Capensis plants together, not Pitcher Plants, as Pitcher Plants require much more water, and too much water can rot your Venus Flytraps. 

The layering and density is important because your Venus flytrap needs to be able to grow and receive water, but it doesn’t want to be suffocated or overwhelmed by water at all times.  You want your Venus Flytrap to have access to water at all times, but not be completely immersed in water for too long, because this is not natural for the plant, and will lead to rot.  Your Venus Flytrap likes to sip from a straw to get its water, not be doused and dunked in at all times. It is a myth that Venus flytraps are “swamp” plants. See this article here for more: https://www.flytrapcare.com/venus-fly-trap-myths/

The density of the growing medium is important for the same reason. Your Venus flytrap needs to be nicely supported by growing medium, but not overwhelmed and packed in to it too tightly.

Of course, don’t forget, both the water and growing medium should be as mineral-free as possible, because Venus flytraps can get sick or even die if exposed to minerals, especially certain minerals. In nature, Venus flytraps evolved growing in mineral-poor growing medium with good drainage. Because the growing medium in nature didn’t have much food in it, it is theorized that at some point a Venus flytrap caught food in its trap, and those flytraps survived, and this is why Venus flytraps have the awe and wonder-inducing ability to close its traps!

Happy potting, re-potting, and transplanting, fellow Flytrap Enthusiasts! If you have any questions, please feel free to email Matt and Leah at [email protected] .

How Do Venus Flytraps Work, and What Do They Really Eat?

A round the world today, you’ll find at least 700 different kinds of carnivorous plants, ranging from pitcher plants that lure their victims into pools of digestive enzymes to adhesive-trap plants whose stalks secrete a natural glue, turning them into living flypaper.

The fossil record contains evidence of early predator plants dating as far back as 40 million years, although many such plants likely existed much earlier than that. As fascinating as these plants are, none have captured the human imagination in the way that the Venus flytrap has.

The Venus Flytrap

(Credit: CristianoG/Shutterstock)

Known to science as Dionaea muscipula , the Venus flytrap is by far the most popular and well-known of predatory plants. Western botanists began writing about it in the 1700s, supposedly naming the flytrap after the goddess Venus because of the plant's beauty when it produces flowers (although there are other less genteel theories about the name).

Even Charles Darwin was captivated by this perennial, which is indigenous to the southeastern United States (mainly North and South Carolina). Fascinated by the “horrid prison” created by the flytrap’s distinctive spine-tipped leaves, which rapidly snap shut on unsuspecting prey, the great naturalist undertook an influential study of this and other carnivorous flora, culminating in his landmark 1875 work, Insectivorous Plants . 

Read More: Venus Flytraps Count to 5 Before Dissolving Prey

Insect-Eating Plants

(Credit: Kuttelvaserova Stuchelova/Shutterstock)

The idea that a mere plant could be a predator is something that has captivated generations of people. For a while, the very notion led to wild rumors of rapacious vegetation in far-flung corners of the world, large in both size and appetite.

Legends and lurid adventure tales of the late 19th and 20th centuries are full of stories of giant bloodthirsty plant life, lying in wait not merely to trap an insect, but to ensnare and snack upon much larger prey — like us. 

Outside of such fantasies as Little Shop of Horrors , humans and other larger lifeforms have never been in any real danger from predatory plant life. Nevertheless, carnivores like the Venus flytrap were bound to accumulate certain myths and misconceptions over the years. Here’s what we really know about these captivating capturers of animal life.

Read More: Top 5 Carnivorous Plants of North America

How Do Venus Flytraps Work?

(Credit: josehidalgo87/Shutterstock)

For starters, the Venus flytrap and other carnivorous plants do not derive the bulk of their energy from the creatures they capture. Instead, they get most of their sustenance in the same way that every other plant does — through photosynthesis. For the flytrap , the very leaves that snap shut and ensnare unwary prey also trap sunlight for use in the photosynthetic process .

So why bother trapping creatures and devouring them? It’s understood that the Venus flytrap and other carnivorous plants evolved their predatory techniques to compensate for certain nutrient deficiencies in the soil where they grow. If they couldn’t get critical types of sustenance from the ground, then they had to develop methods of capturing it — literally — from some other source. In that regard, the insects a flytrap snares are essentially nutritional supplements.   

Read More: Is Dirt Just Worm Poop? Digging Up the Secrets of Soil

What Do Venus Flytraps Eat? 

Having said that, the plant’s name is a little misleading: The Venus flytrap doesn’t actually get a lot of flies in its diet — winged insects account for perhaps 5 percent of its prey. The plant secretes scents to attract a range of creatures, but mostly it feeds on ants and spiders, plus the occasional beetle or grasshopper, whenever it can catch one.

Although it doesn’t commonly happen in nature, in the right circumstances, large flytraps are capable of consuming small frogs, snakes and possibly even rodents. It really depends on the size of the plant relative to the prey; if it fits inside the space of the leaves that form the trap, the plant will try to snare it.

Read More: Meet 10 of the World's Most Adorable Frogs

Can a Venus Flytrap Hurt You?

(Credit: VisderArt/Shutterstock)

And if you’ve ever asked yourself “What would happen if I stuck my finger in a Venus flytrap?” the answer is: Nothing much.

You might get the trap to close around the tip of your finger, but the spines on the edge of the trap won’t hurt you and the trap would have to be completely closed before the plant would secrete any digestive enzymes.

Nevertheless, it’s best not to stick your finger in a Venus flytrap, since you risk doing more harm to plant than anything else. 

Read More: Why Did Carnivorous Plants Become Meat Eaters?

Is the Venus Flytrap Endangered?

(Credit: Barbara Ash/Shutterstock)

Venus flytraps already have plenty of risks to deal with. They are themselves known to be consumed by squirrels and birds. Even some bugs, such as aphids, can be a problem for them. Although not listed as endangered (yet), Venus flytraps in the wild are considered vulnerable .

According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service , the biggest threats to wild populations are human poaching and encroaching. Although it’s a felony in some areas where the plants grow, the predatory perennial’s popularity is such that plenty of unscrupulous people will still illegally harvest wild flytraps for sale as decorative and potted plants.

Meanwhile, human encroachment in the form of agriculture, land development and other depredations have led to large-scale decline and destruction of the Venus flytrap’s natural habitat. Bear that in mind the next time you see an attractive flytrap in a pot at your local garden center. Then ask yourself: Who really is the predator and who is the prey?

Read More: 5 of the Strangest Looking Flowers

Venus flytrap ( Dionaea muscipula ) is one of the most widely known carnivorous plants in the world. In his book  Insectivorous Plants , Charles Darwin referred to Venus flytrap as “one of the most wonderful [plants] in the world. This unique species occurs naturally only in the Coastal Plain of southeastern North Carolina and northeastern South Carolina.

As of 2018, Venus flytrap plants occurred in 18 coastal counties and populations were considered extirpated, or historic, in three counties. The most recent range-wide study was conducted in 2002. Since then, many populations have been impacted or lost due to fire suppression, hydrological changes, poaching, or habitat conversion.

Yet some of the largest populations have come under protection and management as dedicated nature preserves. In 2019, there were approximately 124 populations in North Carolina and three in South Carolina.

In 2016, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service was petitioned to list the Venus flytrap. The Raleigh Field Office is currently evaluating the status of this at-risk species and will be conducting a Species Status Assessment (SSA) to determine if it warrants listing under the Endangered Species Act. To facilitate the SSA, the Raleigh Field Office’s Coastal Program established a cooperative agreement with the North Carolina Natural Heritage Program (NCNHP) to perform a range-wide status survey of the species.

In 2019, NCNHP biologists focused surveys at known populations on public lands such as the Croatan National Forest, Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base, Holly Shelter Game Lands, Boiling Springs Lakes Plant Conservation Program Preserve and many others. Surveys of Venus flytraps on private lands were carried out in 2020. The surveys occurred during the spring and summer when Venus flytraps are most visible due to their flowering and fruiting structures.

The NCNHP contacted all landowners and land managers prior to conducting surveys for permission. Population counts were made by walking consecutive parallel transects approximately 5 meters wide, and counting all individuals seen within 2.5 meters of the surveyor. In dense sites with limited time (i.e. Camp Lejeune) an estimate for population size was extrapolated from a subsample of transects representing approximately 10% of the total population area.

Maps of each population were created using GPS and GIS and they assimilated current monitoring data from other sources to update the element occurrence records for NCNHP and the South Carolina Heritage Trust Program. At population centers where data are sufficient, trends will be analyzed. The NCNHP will follow-up with all participating landowners and managers to share survey results and information about land protection and suggest land management options.

The Venus flytrap survey team counted or estimated more than 440,000 plants in 2019, primarily on public lands. In 2020, Venus flytrap surveys on public and private lands yielded more than 70,000 plants. Additional surveys yielded more than 250,000 plants on preserves owned by The Nature Conservancy. The final report will address the total number of populations known, the total number of plants found and threats to the species that were observed at each site.

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