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The Ultimate Travel Guide to The Togean Islands

The Togean Islands, located in Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, are a hidden gem for travelers seeking a tropical paradise. With their pristine beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and lush jungles, the Togean Islands offer a unique and off-the-beaten-path experience. Here’s an ultimate travel guide to help you plan your trip to this enchanting destination:

Best Time to Visit: The Togean Islands can be visited year-round, but the best time to go is during the dry season, which typically runs from April to October. The weather is generally sunny and ideal for outdoor activities like snorkeling, diving, and exploring the islands.

Getting There: To reach the Togean Islands , you’ll first need to fly to the nearest major airport, which is the Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport in Makassar, South Sulawesi. From Makassar, you have two main options to reach the Togean Islands:

• Via Ampana: Take a domestic flight from Makassar to the small town of Ampana. From Ampana, you can then take a public ferry or hire a private boat to the Togean Islands. The ferry journey takes around 3-4 hours.
• Via Gorontalo: Take a domestic flight from Makassar to Gorontalo. From Gorontalo, you can either take a public ferry or a speedboat to the Togean Islands. The boat ride takes approximately 8-10 hours.

Island Hopping: The Togean Islands consist of several islands, each with its own unique charm and attractions. Here are some of the must-visit islands:

• Kadidiri: This is the most popular and developed island in the Togean archipelago. It offers a range of accommodation options, including budget guesthouses and beachfront resorts. Kadidiri Island is known for its stunning beaches, excellent snorkeling, and diving spots such as Una Una and Karina.
• Malenge: Malenge Island is known for its tranquil atmosphere and beautiful beaches. It offers opportunities for snorkeling, diving, and exploring the mangrove forests. Don’t miss the Jellyfish Lake, where you can swim with harmless jellyfish.
• Una Una: Una Una is an active volcano island with lush vegetation and fantastic diving spots. You can hike to the volcano’s summit and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding islands. The underwater world around Una Una is teeming with marine life, making it a diver’s paradise.
• Waleabahi: Waleabahi Island is perfect for those seeking solitude and untouched natural beauty. It offers pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and great snorkeling opportunities. You can also explore the nearby Batu Daka Island, known for its limestone formations and bat colonies.

Activities and Attractions: The Togean Islands offer a wide range of activities for nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts. Here are some highlights:

• Snorkeling and Diving: The Togean Islands are renowned for their incredible underwater biodiversity. Dive or snorkel in the vibrant coral reefs and encounter a kaleidoscope of tropical fish, sea turtles, and even reef sharks. Some popular dive sites include Karina Point, Bolilanga Island, and Una Una.
• Kayaking and Canoeing: Explore the calm and pristine waters around the islands by renting a kayak or a traditional canoe. Paddle through mangrove forests, visit secluded beaches, and enjoy the serenity of the surrounding nature.
• Jungle Trekking: Embark on a jungle trek to discover the islands’ rich flora and fauna. Guided hikes will take you through dense forests where you can spot unique bird species, monkeys, and other wildlife.
• Visit Bajo Villages:

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About the Author: Sheri Croll

• Mar 20, 2023

How to Get to Togean Islands: Your Complete Travel Guide (Updated February 2024)

Updated: Feb 13

Have you been dreaming of a tropical paradise with pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and vibrant marine life? Look no further than the enchanting Togean Islands, an archipelago tucked away in Central Sulawesi, Indonesia. In this comprehensive guide, we'll show you how to get to the Togean Islands in 2023, so you can embark on your unforgettable Indonesian adventure.

At the end of the article, we will share a simple graphic to help you pick your ideas route. We will also share with you what is our guests' preferred route.

1. Arriving in Indonesia: Your Gateway to Adventure

Kick off your journey by booking a flight to Indonesia. Most international travelers land at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (CGK) in Jakarta or Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS) in Bali. From there, you'll need to catch a domestic flight to one of the airports closest to the Togean Islands.

2. Catching a Domestic Flight: The First Step to get to Togean Islands

The nearest airports to the Togean Islands are Tanjung Api Airport (OJU) in Ampana and Jalaluddin Airport (GTO) in Gorontalo . Several airlines operate flights to these airports from major Indonesian cities like Jakarta, Bali, Makassar, Palu and Surabaya . Check the flight schedules and book your tickets early to ensure a smooth journey.

Pro tip: In some cases, it might be more convenient to land in an alternative airport like Luwuk, and rent a car to reach Ampana (see option 3 below for our guests' preferred route).

Option 1: Journey from Palu to Ampana: Exploring Sulawesi's Beauty

After landing in Palu, you have two ways to reach Ampana, by land or by air. Here are the main advantage and inconvenient of each choice.

Traveling From Palu to Ampana by land

Here's how to make your way to Ampana, the primary gateway to the Togean Islands. Rent a car or take a shared taxi (called "travel") for the 7-8 hour journey. Along the way, you'll pass through picturesque landscapes and charming villages, giving you a taste of Sulawesi's natural beauty.

Traveling from Palu to Ampana by air

The route from Palu to Ampana has reopened early 2023, and now operates twice a week. The journey only takes 45 minutes in a small plane, operated by Susi Air. The tickets are only available at the airport in Palu, and cost about $25 per person.

Currently, the flight schedule from Palu to Ampana (round trip) is available every Monday and Wednesday morning, around 10AM.

Pro tip: Contact the airline in advance to make sure they will keep you a seat. Make sure to arrive early at the airport to check-in, because the schedule may vary randomly from one week to another.

Option 2: Traveling from Gorontalo to Togian Islands: A Scenic Journey

If you choose to fly to Gorontalo, you can take a ferry from Gorontalo to Wakai (in the Togean Islands) and then continue to your resort from there, using a local boat. The ferry from Gorontalo to Wakai operates twice a week and takes around 6 hours, offering a unique experience through scenic waters.

Pro tip: contact your resort before booking your ferry ticket, and make sure they can arrange your boat shuttle from Wakai to Kadidiri, Kabalutan, Bomba or Malenge, depending where you will stay.

Option 3: Traveling from Luwuk to Ampana – The Top Choice for 2023 Togean Islands Getaways

Discover the preferred route for savvy travelers heading to the Togean Islands in 2023: fly into Luwuk and journey by land to Ampana. This increasingly popular option offers convenience, flexibility, and reduced travel time.

Quicker Land Journey: Opting to travel from Luwuk to Ampana by car cuts your overland journey down to just 5 hours, a significant time-saving compared to the longer trip from Palu to Ampana.

Frequent Flight Options: The popularity of this route lies in the daily flight availability to Luwuk, with both morning and afternoon options. In contrast, flights from Palu to Ampana operate only twice a week, limiting your flexibility.

Pro tip: To streamline your travel experience, ask your Togean Islands resort to assist with booking a car and driver to meet you at Luwuk Airport. You'll be whisked away directly to the Ampana harbor, making your journey to the islands as seamless as possible.

By choosing this favored route for your 2023 Togean Islands adventure, you'll enjoy a more efficient and hassle-free journey, leaving you more time to soak in the beauty of Indonesia's tropical paradise.

3. Ampana to Togean Islands by Boat: Your Voyage to Paradise

From Ampana, you can take a public speedboat or a chartered boat to the Togean Islands. The speedboat trip takes about 3-4 hours, depending on the specific island and weather conditions.

Boats usually run daily, but schedules can change due to weather or other factors, so it's best to confirm the schedule in advance with your resort. As you embark on this voyage, take in the breathtaking views and feel the excitement build as you approach these hidden gems.

The exception is if you're traveling to Buka Buka Island, which is the closest island from Ampana, at the door of the Togean Islands (but outside of the national park). To go to Buka Buka Island, you can directly contact us at Reconnect, and we will arrange a private shuttle directly from Ampana to our resort.

Flight Schedules to the Togean Islands: Plan Your Perfect Timing

Keeping track of flight schedules is essential for a seamless journey to the Togean Islands. In this section, we'll share insider tips on finding the most reliable flights and best timings, ensuring a smooth start to your tropical getaway.

Insider Tips for Smooth Travel to the Togean Islands

Domestic Flight Availability: Flights from popular Indonesian cities like Jakarta, Bali, and Surabaya to Palu and Gorontalo typically operate daily. However, to secure your spot, book your flights well in advance, especially during peak travel seasons, when availability can be limited. Local connections such as Palu to Ampana are only available locally directly at Palu airport, and you won't find those flights online.

Strategize Your Connecting Flights: Plan your trip with connection times in mind, ensuring a comfortable layover between your international and domestic flights. Be prepared for any unforeseen delays or cancellations, and consider booking with a single airline or alliance for better support in case of disruptions (typically, Lion Group operates most flights in Sulawesi)

Stay Up-to-Date on Flight Schedules: Keep tabs on your flight schedule by signing up for updates from your airline or using flight-tracking apps. This proactive approach allows you to respond quickly to any changes and adjust your travel plans accordingly.

Embrace Low Season Travel: For a more relaxed journey and easier flight booking, consider traveling during the low season (usually between November and March). This period typically sees fewer tourists, making it simpler to secure your preferred flight times and accommodations.

Popular Routes for an Effortless Journey to the Togean Islands

When planning your trip to the Togean Islands, consider these popular routes that many guests have used for a hassle-free travel experience:

Jakarta (CGK) to Palu (PLW): This route offers daily flights with various airlines, providing flexible options for travelers coming from the Indonesian capital.

Bali (DPS) to Palu (PLW): A popular choice for those arriving in Indonesia via Bali, this route also features daily flights, making it easy to book your domestic connection.

Surabaya (SUB) to Palu (PLW) or Gorontalo (GTO): From Surabaya, you can catch flights to either Palu or Gorontalo, giving you options to choose the most convenient gateway to the Togean Islands based on your schedule and preferences.

Kuala Lumpur (KUL) or Singapore (SIN) to Palu (PLW) or Gorontalo (GTO): For international travelers, consider booking a connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur or Singapore to Palu or Gorontalo. Some airlines offer convenient connections, allowing you to streamline your journey to the Togean Islands.

By choosing one of these popular routes, you'll be well on your way to a stress-free adventure in the breathtaking Togean Islands.

Flight Schedule From Palu to Ampana (updated March 2023)

The Susi Air flight from Palu to Ampana currently operates a round trip every Monday and Wednesday morning.

The flight takes off at 11:00AM from Palu and land at 11:45AM in Ampana. The flights then takes off at 11:55AM from Ampana and land at 12:40PM in Palu.

The cost for the flight from Palu to Ampana is 385,000 IDR.

The cost for the flight from Ampana to Palu is 350,000 IDR.

Pro tip: contact the Susi Air airline or your resort ahead of time to make sure you get a seat in the flight. Also, sometimes the flight leaves earlier if all passengers are on site.

Trust Your Togean Islands Resort for Up-to-Date Flight Details

When planning your journey to the Togean Islands, always consult your resort for the latest and most accurate flight information. Togean Islands resorts are often the first to know about changes in flight schedules, cancellations, and newly introduced routes. Sometimes, outdated information remains online, causing confusion and potential disruptions to your travel plans.

To ensure a hassle-free trip to the Togean Islands, follow your resort's guidance and recommendations for flights, connections, and travel tips. By staying informed and working closely with your Togean Islands resort, you'll be better prepared for an enjoyable and unforgettable travel experience in this Indonesian paradise.

Arriving at Buka Buka Island and Reconnect Resort: Unveil Your Dreamy Island Escape

Buka Buka Island, a stunning 160-hectare gem situated at the doorstep of the Togean Islands, awaits your arrival. As it lies outside the national park, you won't need to purchase entry tickets, and its proximity to Ampana makes it a convenient destination.

Here's how to reach the Reconnect Resort on Buka Buka Island:

Exclusive Resort Transfer: Allow us to organize a private transfer directly to Buka Buka Island for you. Choose the speedboat option for a swift 30-minute journey, ensuring you'll be relaxing on the island's pristine shores in no time.

Savor the Scenery: For a more leisurely pace, select one of our alternative transfer options. The Long Boat will glide you to the island in about an hour, while the Traditional Boat offers an authentic experience, taking approximately 1.5 hours.

By opting for one of these transfer options, you'll soon find yourself immersed in the enchanting beauty of Buka Buka Island and the luxurious embrace of Reconnect Resort, your dreamy island hideaway.

Conclusion: Embark on Your Unforgettable Togean Islands Adventure

Although getting to the Togean Islands might seem daunting, following this guide will help you navigate the journey with ease.

By planning your trip carefully and allowing for possible schedule changes, you'll soon find yourself enjoying the stunning beauty of the Togean Islands and the relaxing atmosphere of Reconnect Resort on Buka Buka Island.

So, pack your bags, grab your sunscreen, and get ready to embark on the adventure of a lifetime in Indonesia's hidden paradise. Safe travels, and we hope to welcome you soon!

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The Ultimate Guide to Togian Islands, Sulawesi

Togian Islands (also known as Togean Islands) are like islands lost between the midst of everything in Northern Sulawesi (Sulawesi Utara), thus coining it as an almost secret dive destination. This invokes thoughts of real independent traveling there and diving into unexplored areas.

One thing for sure is the water is pristine, and you would not see many other divers around. There are more than 30 dive sites among the 56 islands! Imagine all the places untouched! You come here to dive, dive and dive but of course; it can be also for just a retreat.

You may still arrange tours and trips to get here without hassle, but it is also not impossible to get here. The difficulty getting there is the reason these islands remain mainly untouched. Therefore, it is a good thing in a way.

See the Best Accommodations in Togian Islands

Where are the togian islands.

Togian Islands is an archipelago located in the transition zone of Wallace and Weber lines across the central Gulf of Tomini, off the coast of Central Sulawesi. The islands are situated roughly in the middle of Sulawesi’s northern and southern tips.

It comprises around 66 large and small islands, scattered throughout the gulf between the mainland of Central Sulawesi and the Banggai Islands.

Why visit Togian Islands

The islands are known for their unspoiled natural beauty, with pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and lush rainforests. The surrounding waters of the Togian Islands are home to a diverse array of marine life, including colorful coral reefs, sea turtles, dolphins, and various species of fish, making it a popular destination for diving and snorkeling enthusiasts.

The local communities mainly rely on fishing and farming and are friendly and welcoming to visitors, offering a glimpse into their traditional way of life.

When is the best time to visit Togian Islands

The climate here is tropical and with two seasons – dry and wet. But it is generally warm all year round, and it is driest during the summer months of April-October , making these the best time to come here but bear in mind it could go really hot. The sea conditions are also calmer, making it easier for visitors to enjoy water activities such as diving, snorkeling, and island hopping.

The peak tourist season in the Togian Islands is from June to August, when the weather is at its best. Visitors during this time can expect plenty of sunshine and clear blue skies but should also be prepared for more crowds and higher prices for accommodations.

Interesting Places to Visit in Togian Islands

If you stay in the southwest area of the Togean Islands, then the places you can visit are:

Pulau Papan (Papan Island),

It is a small island inhabited by native tribes. To reach this beautiful place, you will cross a romantic 1.3-kilometer-long bridge connecting this small island with the mainland. Walking on this bridge gives a sensation like walking on a vast ocean because the view is towards the open sea.

The View Tower in Kadoda.

If you walk from Pulau Papan across the romantic bridge to the end of the bridge, then you will arrive at Kadoda Village. In this village, you will find a tower intended for visitors who want to see the archipelago from 360 degrees.

Stingless jellyfish lake

This is a lake-like area with seawater where various aquatic animals and jellyfish dominate the population. These jellyfish are stingless and harmless, so you can swim (without fins) with them and witness the beauty of their movements in the water.

Settlements of the Bajo tribe

They are located above the water on the edge of islands with shady waters. You can learn how they survive and live an everyday life. Here you can measure how strong you can live in the open, like on these islands in the old ways.

Settlements or villages of the native Togean Islands

Visit the settlements or villages of the native Togean Islands and witness the traditions of the human life cycle. In these villages, you can socialize with the residents, do something with them or learn how to do something like how they make brown sugar, preserve fish, and various types of their special food.

During the harvest season, you might be interested in visiting the clove plantations owned by residents, getting involved in harvesting cloves, and feeling the sensation of hanging on high steps to pick cloves.

The residents of the Togian Islands are very friendly and feel happy when they receive visits from strangers at their homes. Asking or offering to participate in their productive activities will enliven the atmosphere in their environment with jokes and laughter.

Mangrove boardwalk in Lembanato

It is a wooden bridge crossing a natural mangrove forest conservation area. The air, aroma, and sound of nature will tell you you are in a mangrove forest. Visiting this area should also be aimed at learning about the mangrove forest ecosystem. You may need a local expert guide (preferably from a mangrove forest conservation group) in Lembanato village.

Things to do in Togian Islands

As a place with dozens of islands with beautiful beaches with around 262 species of coral, 596 species of fish, and dozens of other types of marine animals, Togean is the right place for those who love underwater scenery.

You can dive around the small islands with a rented boat or snorkel. Note that boat rental fees also vary greatly, so you must be smart in haggling.

As one of the top diving sites in Indonesia , this is the place where you have to try scuba diving. There are hundreds of species of corals here, many still unclassified, and the diversity of marine life here is staggering. You will find many diving spots in the form of lush coral cliffs and many people, so it seems you are diving between tall buildings. The fertility of coral reefs in the Togean Islands is due to their location close to the equator and the clear sea water so that sunlight penetrates further into the water.

If you intend to dive, then make sure the place you stay has dive facilities and someone who can train or guide dives. And you don’t need to worry; this facility is available at several resorts in this marine conservation area.

One of the best dive sites in Togian islands is the B24 Allied bombers in WW2, located just 16km northeast of Kaidiriri Island. Here you can dive with the wrecked aircraft that is now home to so many mysteries of the underwater sea. Another highlight is diving in Pulau Una Una (the pinnacle), which has lots of large marine life to see.

Here are more recommended diving spots around these islands:

• The Pinnacle – Una Una:  A large pinnacle reef with a wall or more as deep as 60 meters. Many variations of sponge coral
• Apollo – Una Una:  Most likely can see the school of Blackin Barracuda
• Pasir Tengah (Central Sands):  3 kilometers wide atoll reefs and nudibranchs
• B24 Bomber Wreck : The shipwreck is 17 meters long and 22 meters wide
• Batu Gila (Gila Rock) : Reef sharks, manta rays, and barracuda
• Goa Goa : Diving through tunnels with beautiful coral reefs and good water visibility

The coral reefs of the Togian Islands are extensive. Most hotels or cottages are on the edges of long white sandy beaches with an expanse of coral reefs in front. Imagine snorkeling right before your cottage before breakfast, or at any time.

Non-swimmers can also enjoy the coral reefs using the cottages’ water facilities, allowing you to float and admire the view with water goggles.

If you feel tired after diving and/or snorkeling, you can relax while touring the islands using a rented motorized boat. The speedboat rental’s price varies, around IDR 900,000 – IDR 1,000,000 (around 70 – 80 USD) at the cheapest (including driver). This chartered speedboat can accommodate up to 10 people with minimalist baggage.

Below are the ships’ costs for a snorkeling trip in Togian Islands:

• Reef One – Hotel California – Karina Beach – Jellyfish Lake – Mangrove Forest: IDR 425,000 (less than USD 40, for 6 – 8 people)
• Taipi Island – Karina Beach – Jellyfish Lake – Mangrove Forest: IDR 425,000 (less than USD 40, for 6 – 8 people)
• Hotel California – Reef Dua – Atoll – Malenge Beach: IDR 475,000 (less than USD 45, for 6 people)
• Reef One – Reef Two – Atoll – Malenge’s Jetty: IDR 525,000 (less than USD 50, for 6 people)
• Kabalutan Village – Talawenga Island: IDR 525,000 (less than USD 50, for 6 – 8 people)
• Rent snorkeling equipment and fins: IDR 50,000 (less than USD 5 /day)

In Ampana, the port city, before heading to the Togean Islands, there are modern charter fishing facilities. You can order it and take a trip using a fishing boat (fishing). You can stay on the ship and do not have to stay in the cottages.

If you are not with a charter fishing group, you can carry out traditional fishing activities together with residents who are proficient in carrying out the type of fishing activity you choose, such as; long-line deep fishing, short-line shallow fishing, netting, trawling, and various ways of hunting in the sea. You may need a quick tutorial on how to do this before doing this activity or while traveling.

Crossing from one island to another

One of the most intriguing experiences in the Togian Islands is crossing from one island to another on long wooden bridges.

These bridges, which are locally known as “jembatan gantung,” are made from sturdy planks of wood and stretch across narrow straits or lagoons between the islands. Some of these bridges can be quite long, and walking across them can be thrilling and awe-inspiring, providing stunning views of the surrounding waters and lush greenery.

Crossing the wooden bridges is also a chance to interact with the local communities who use them regularly as a means of transportation between the islands. Visitors can witness the daily life of the locals and get a glimpse of the traditional lifestyle of the Togian Islands.

One of the famous bridges is the one-kilometer-long bridge connecting Malenge Island to Papan Island. Walking on this wooden bridge will allow you to see the coral reefs directly below. Before leaving this island, you can go up to a hill called Batu Karang to see the panorama of the whole village and the bridge from above.

Waiting for sunset at the dock

After moving from one island to another, apart from having dinner, the most exciting thing to do on Togean Island is to sit on the dock and wait for the sun to set.

The view is so incredible; you will feel so lucky you’ve decided to come to Togian Islands.

Togian Islands Accommodations

You may stay on Kadidiri Island, with three resorts here to choose from, which normally charge per night, including meals. The best place to stay here is the Kadidiri Paradise * . Alternative budget accommodation would be at Kalolio Island , such as Sanctum Una Una Eco Dive Resort * .

Kadidiri Paradise

Kadidiri Paradise is a resort on Kadidiri Island in the Togian Islands, offering comfortable accommodations, excellent dining, and access to some of the best diving and snorkeling in the area. The resort has a dive center, and friendly staff and is situated on a beautiful beach with crystal-clear waters and stunning coral reefs. In addition to its great location and amenities, Kadidiri Paradise is also known for its relaxed and laid-back atmosphere. Guests can spend their days lounging on the beach, exploring the island, or taking part in one of the many activities offered by the resort, such as snorkeling, diving, kayaking, or hiking. With its combination of natural beauty, comfortable accommodations, and friendly service, Kadidiri Paradise is a popular choice for travelers looking to experience the best of the Togian Islands.

Check out the latest prices on Agoda.com * Check out the latest prices on Booking.com *

Harmony Bay Resort and Dive Center

Harmony Bay Resort and Dive Center is a popular choice for travelers looking for a comfortable and affordable stay in the Togian Islands. Located on the island of Batudaka, the resort offers a range of accommodation options, including private bungalows and shared dormitories, all with modern amenities and comfortable furnishings. The on-site dive center is a major draw, offering a range of courses and dive trips to some of the best sites in the area, including coral reefs, shipwrecks, and underwater caves. Guests can enjoy delicious Indonesian and Western cuisine at the resort’s restaurant or relax and soak up the sun on the beautiful beach. With its friendly staff, great location, and affordable prices, Harmony Bay Resort and Dive Center is an excellent choice for anyone looking to experience the natural beauty and underwater wonders of the Togian Islands.

Araya Dive Resort

Araya Dive Resort is a charming and secluded resort located on the island of Walea Kadidiri in the Togian Islands. The resort offers comfortable and eco-friendly bungalows with stunning ocean views and easy access to the beach. The on-site dive center is a major attraction, offering a range of diving courses and excursions to some of the area’s most beautiful and unspoiled coral reefs. Guests can also enjoy delicious meals at the resort’s restaurant, which features fresh seafood and other local specialties. With its beautiful location, peaceful atmosphere, and excellent diving opportunities, Araya Dive Resort is a great choice for anyone looking for an authentic and unforgettable Togian Islands experience.

Find the best hotel deals in Togian Islands *

How to get to the togian islands.

By Flights The most common way is to take regular daily flights from Jakarta and Surabaya to Gorontalo and catch a public ferry to Wakai in Togian Islands, which would take about 13 hours. Another way is flying to Palu and taking transportation to Ampana, and from there, catching a boat to Wakai.

Wakai is the central hub for transportation in the archipelago, with regular ferry connections to other islands and the mainland.

Via Gorontalo

Take a flight from Jakarta or Surabaya to Gorontalo. Then head to the ferry terminal located approximately one hour from the airport.

The ferry from Gorontalo to Wakai departs every Tuesday and Friday at 6 pm. The trip by ferry is approximately 12 hours, and will arrive in Wakai the next morning. Ferry ticket prices to the Togian Islands range from IDR 64,000 for economy class (non-ac) to IDR 500,000 for a cabin that fits four people.

Ampana is the capital town of Tojo Una-Una Regency, where the Togian Islands are located. You can reach Ampana by plane from Palu City. If you fly from Jakarta, Surabaya, Bali, or Makassar, you must fly to Palu first. Then, take after that, take another flight to Ampana.

If you choose this route, you probably must stay overnight in Palu first because Wings Air currently operates the flight schedule from Palu to Ampana and departs only once a day at 11.35 am.

After arriving at Ampana, you must take a boat to Wakai. The boat to Wakai departs at 9 am and arrives around 2 pm (a 5-hour journey). The ticket price for the Ampana to Wakai is IDR 150,000 (USD 10 – 12).

By Land Suppose you are coming from Tana Toraja in South Sulawesi. In that case, you may take a bus trip from Rantepao of about 14 hours to Ampana and then followed by a boat to Wakai in Togian Islands, which is another 4 hours.

How to get around Togean Islands

You may charter a boat around the Togian islands, typically costing 1-2 million Rp.

Where to go nearby

Manado – get back to this unassuming yet quite interesting city that acts as a springboard to other dive sites and areas of travel. Bunaken Island – is another fantastic dive site for divers alike. Tana Toraja – you may head to South Sulawesi and catch the ancient funeral rites of this indigenous tribe

Travel Tips

Remember to bring mosquito repellants as they are really notorious here being it is still hugely undeveloped.

Go to Sulawesi Travel Guide

Fascinated by Indonesia, Rachel hopes to bring the best Indonesia Travel Guide to independent travelers so that they can enjoy what Indonesia has the best to offer. Being an independent wanderer herself, Rachel knows what it takes to make a good, fun-filled yet responsible independent traveling. So let’s join her to discover wonderful Indonesia together.

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Togian Islands Travel Guide: How to Get to Paradise

Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago, and many of its 17,000 islands are famed for their beauty. Sulawesi’s Togian Islands, though, may be the best of the lot. Home to some truly world-class snorkelling and diving, these unspoilt islands are great for getting away from the chaos of urban Indonesia. Electricity is irregular, there is no internet connection, and phone signal is sporadic. This, combined with the islands’ friendly people and abundance of great resort hotels, makes the Togians perfect for a tropical island getaway.

Getting to the Togian Islands

Getting to the Togians is the biggest challenge they pose. The islands are not difficult to reach, but whichever way you come from, it takes a long time. This puts a lot of travellers off, but it is largely why they remain so unspoilt for the rest of us. There are two points of entry. The first is from Gorontalo in the north, which is the easiest route as it has an airport – however, the ferry is less frequent. The second is from Ampana in the south. Whichever way you come, you will probably arrive in Wakai, the Togians’ main transport hub on the island of Batu Daka.

Getting to the Togian Islands from Gorontalo

Gorontalo’s airport connects to Makassar, Manado and Luwuk, all in Sulawesi. From Gorontalo’s port, a ferry departs for Wakai every Tuesday and Friday, but this is subject to change. The ferry departs around 5pm and takes around 12 hours. The return boat to Gorontalo leaves at around 4pm on Mondays and Thursdays.

Getting to the Togian Islands from Ampana

Many visitors to the Togians come overland from the south, having visited Tanah Toraja. If this is you, you’ll probably come to the Togian Islands from Ampana. Ampana also has an airport, which currently flies to Makassar, but it’s very small and service is erratic. Boats from Ampana to Wakai depart from Monday to Thursday at 10am, and at 9am on Sundays. In the other direction, from Wakai to Ampana, boats depart at 10am on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, and 7am on Wednesday.

From Ampana, It’s also possible to reach the Togians via another port, Bomba, also on Batu Daka. This is more convenient if you’re planning to stay in or near Bomba. From Ampana, boats for Bomba leave on Sunday, Tuesday and Friday at 9am; the return boat leaves on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, also at 9am.

Which Togian Island to choose

There are 56 islands in the Togian archipelago, but only a handful are inhabited or regularly visited by tourists. Because it is quite difficult to get around the islands, most people will only visit one or two of them during their time here. Where you go depends on what you are looking for; some hotels cater specifically to divers, while others are great for just relaxing on the beach. It’s important to choose your hotel wisely, as you’ll spend pretty much all your time and eat all your meals there.

Whichever island you choose to head to, your hotel will arrange to pick you up from the ferry at Wakai then take you in a smaller boat. Given the difficulty of getting to the Togians and getting around, it is highly recommended that you book in advance.

For divers, Kadidiri is the best island to head to. Its long, golden beach is home to three resort hotels: Kadidiri Paradise , Black Marlin , and Lestari . The former two are very much aimed at divers; at Black Marlin in particular, non-divers may feel a little out of place. Kadidiri is also the most social spot in the Togians. Kadidiri Paradise has a lively bar which spills out onto the beach and is a great place to meet your fellow travellers. Lestari is a little more relaxed and cheaper than the other two. It’s not a dive resort, but they can arrange snorkelling trips.

If Kadidiri’s social scene doesn’t appeal, you may prefer the tiny island of Bolilanga. The only place to stay is Bolilanga Island Resort , a friendly place with a range of beach bungalows. Divers will probably look elsewhere, but if you want to snorkel, fish, or just laze on the beach, this is the place for you.

Bomba sits on the western edge of Batu Daka, the main island in the Togians. As mentioned above, it can be reached directly from Ampana. If you’re operating on a slightly higher budget, a fantastic choice is Island Retreat . As with everywhere in the Togians, this is a collection of wooden bungalows, but they’re very comfortable and sit on a beautiful stretch of beach. Run by a friendly American woman, this resort is great for diving, snorkelling, or lounging on the beach – and the food is absolutely fantastic.

Eating in the Togian Islands

As mentioned above, all your meals in the Togians will be taken at your hotel, except for the odd packed lunch on a day trip. The food is usually simple but fantastic at the hotels, taking the form of mountains of rice and vegetables with the freshest seafood. Meals are often served communally, a great way to meet your fellow travellers.

Activities in the Togian Islands

Many visitors to the Togian Islands come for one reason: scuba diving. The Togians are much quieter and less spoilt than surf hotspots in places like Bali. They don’t boast the greatest biodiversity in Indonesia, but still provide good opportunities to spot sea turtles, rays and sharks among much other sea life. If you’re not a diver, snorkelling trips are very popular too.

The Togians are also home to the Bajo people, a community of ‘sea gypsies’ who spend much of their lives in the water. Boat trips are available to take you to their villages, where you can meet them and buy some freshly caught seafood for lunch.

Final thoughts

The Togian Islands are hard to reach, but worth it for the determined traveller. They are a beautifully unspoilt collection of islands, and diving and snorkelling are very popular. Cultural trips are also on offer to visit the Bajo, a community of semi-nomadic sea gypsies.

Have you been to the Togian Islands? Do you have any suggestions about where to stay or what to do not listed above? Let us know in the comments below.

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I’ve been to Togian and stayed at Fadhilla cottage in Pangempa island, in front of Katupat island and next to Bolilanga Island Resort. The public boat would stop in Katupat island after its first stop in Wakai. The speed boat would pick up from Katupat and only less than 5 minutes to get the cottage. The ambiance was excellent with hammock in front of the room, superb view and delicious food. Mr Jafar as a owner of Fadhila Cottage would be glad to explain you about Togian. He was so nice and friendly guy! And dont worry If you want to dive, Fadhilla also provide diving tour and Mr Jafar will accompany you to dive.

That sounds like quite an experience. Thanks Erva for providing all that information 🙂

Nice blog, Thank you for sharing this amazing tips with us.

Another awesome article. Very detailed and informative. Thanks for sharing!

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Independent travel & culture guides to indonesia, 10 days in the togian islands.

January 30, 2017 Elliot Central & North Sulawesi 1

Togian islands ( Kepulauan Togian ) are a group of about 50 islands located in the gulf of Tomini, in the province of Central Sulawesi. Getting there is quite long, but I guarantee it’s worth the trip.

Like often in Indonesia, it’s a melting pot of people from different ethnical groups: Togian, Bobongko, Bajo, Bugis … They are among the friendliest people I’ve met in Indonesia, hence implying they are truly adorable given how friendly Indonesian people are in general.

Local people traditionally make their livings off fishery, pearl trade and cloves. Tourism brings a steady flow of guests to the archipelago, but its scale remains limited.

Understanding the area

I made a map that should help you to understand how Togian (also called Togean) works.

The tourist track follows the cargo boat that connects Ampana to Wakai and then stops in Katupat, Malenge, Popolii and Dolong (the boat also stops in other villages between).

As you can see on the map, accomodations that cater to tourists are distributed among 5 locations.

I decided to avoid Kadidiri area where you have a lot of resorts (Black Marlin, Paradise, Pondok Lestari, Sunset, Harmony Bay …). They might be quite good, I have no idea. But :

• I try to avoid places where you have (or expect) a lot of tourists.
• Fadhila and Malenge are actually closer to most of the attractions of the Togian.

I stayed in Fadhila Cottages and then in Sera Beach on Malenge and eventually in Una Una Sanctum, so I will dwell upon them later. Lia Beach is quite far but I think it’s worth a try if you have time.

Katupat area

Chilling in fadhila cottages.

Fadhila cottages is located on a small islands off Katupat (pulau Pangempang). They offer free ride (5 min) to and from Katupat whenever you want. The price is 200,000Rp per person per day (including 3 meals).

This place is perfect to relax, there is neither Internet connection nor phone signal. The staff is nice and the food is good.

You can go swimming and snorkeling around the island. Don’t hesitate to join the daily football or volleyball game in Katupat.

They offer several excursion from 425’000 to 600’000 IDR to be shared between 6 to 8 people. It’s mostly snorkeling but they can also take you in the nature or in remote villages. Diving is also available (but I knew I was to dive in Una Una so I didn’t try).

Exploring Lembanato

From Katupat, a 20 minutes walk will take you to Lembanato, another village on the other side of the hill that stands behind Katupat.

In Lembanato, no one speaks English and there is no permanent homestay either (but I don’t doubt any second you could arrange one). I got a much more authentic overview of the life in the Togian there. Beyond the postcard, local people remain very poor and lack almost all of the modern comfort.

The village shall be connected to the power grid in 2017 and a new road large enough for cars shall also be build between Katupat and Lembanato this year.

I spent one afternoon talking with anyone I would meet there. I really enjoyed this time but I’m afraid the contact will be very limited if you cannot speak Indonesian. You can still expect a swarm of cheerful kids following you everywhere.

The jellyfish lake

About 40 minutes from Fadhila you have a lake filled with harmless jellyfish. Thousands years ago they got stucked there without any predators around, thus they never developed any defence mechanism. You can swim with them and even touch them (very gently and as few as possible).

I know at least 4 others places with a similar lake in Indonesia ( Derawan , Buton , Misool, Banggai) as well as one in Palau so it’s not that uncommon.

Malenge area

Where to stay in malenge .

You have a lots of options almost all located on the North coast of Malenge islands. I’ve chosen Sera Beach and was quite satisfied. Price are the same than in Fadhila (200’000 IDR per person per day).

The manager (Nuir) is really nice and knows a lot about the local wildlife (both on land and underwater). At any moment of the day you can enjoy the huge natural pool in front of the resort. They stroke a deal with local fishermen so they don’t fish in front of the resort. The snorkeling on the house reef is also quite good : lots of fish, baby sharks, some nudibranchs if you look closely. I got even told you could see some eagle rays sometimes.

Behind the resorts, there is an huge garden on the slope of the hill. It’s owned by a sole guy that grows black beans, chilies, eggplants, tomatoes, bananaes, papayas, pineapples …

The trees hosts several kind of birds. According to the farmer, it’s better to come early in the morning to watch them, even though I spot hornbills only during the afternoon. He also told me there were a lot of monkeys around noon.

In front of Pulau Papan you have Lestari Cottages (not the same as Pondok Lestari on Kadidiri) which I think is also quite good, that would have been my second choice if I had to change.

Papan island and its iconic jetty

It’s definitely the most iconic view of Togian islands : the two kilometers jetty that connects the village on Pulau Papan to the village of Kadoda (where the elementary school is).

I advise you to get dropped off in Kadoda and then walk to Pulau Papan. Your boat can pick you up there.

The jetty picture above is the renovated one. Before the building of the jetty, kids were relying on boat to go back from school. Some days there was no boat so they would just take off their cloth and swim back to their house while holding there school uniform off the water with one hand.

I read on numerous occasions that the village on Pulau Papan was a bajo village. But all inhabitants I asked the question told me there were no bajo living here.

So I don’t know exactly what is the reality but from my discussions with inhabitants I understand this is not a “sea gypsies” village, even though it’s built on the water.

Things to do in Malenge

The best snorkeling spots are located off Malenge. I was a bit pressed by time so I didn’t try them given I was heading for Una Una afterwards.

I just notice that all resorts in Kadidiri offer trips there but no resort in Malenge offer trip to Kadidiri. So I guess there is a good reason for that.

It’s allegedly possible to walk across the islands through the nature in about 2 hours. Among the wildlife that can be spotted I heard about coconut crabs, birds and some babirussa (very rare).

Unfortunately I understand there are too many dogs on the islands and they are driving the babirussa population down by hunting them.

Una Una area

I dived for 3 days in Una Una sanctum that is run by Andri and his Finnish wife, who wasn’t there when I visited. The diving is great: huge schools of barracudas and jacks in front of the resort, nice walls, some muck, corral gardens…

Gears and divemasters (at the moment of my visit 2 instructors) are also top quality.

Una Una is quite far from the rest of the islands (3 hours by boat from Wakai) so I don’t advise you to go there unless you wanna dive.

The public ferry from Wakai to Una Una costs 30’000Rp. Chartering a local boat costed me 600’000Rp (one way).

How to go to the Togian islands ?

To put it in a nutshell, the fastest you can do to reach Togian from Jakarta or Denpasar is 2 days, which can be push down to 1 day if you are willing to charter your own boat.

You can get there either from the South (by Ampana) or the North (by Gorontalo). There is another ferry leaving from Bumbulan to Dolong twice a week.

Almost all the boats will take you first to Wakai, which is the transport hub.

Before planning your trip, please note that boats are not leaving daily, hence your itinerary is going to depends mostly on the schedule.

The owner of Lia Beach Resort keeps updated a free boat schedule on her website [ Update : it seems that Lia Beach now gives out its boat schedule as a marketing anchor to subscribe to their newsletter]

The South road : Makassar > Rantepao > Ampana

From Makassar you spend a few days in Tana Toraja , then hit the road to Ampana. At Ampana I got told it takes 16 hours by car and 20 hours by bus. I met 2 couples who told me their bus trip took even longer.

A possibility is to slip the road in two by stopping in Tentena overnight.

The fast boat from Ampana to Wakai costs 130’000Rp, the slow boat 75’000Rp (2017).

The North road : Manado > Gorontalo (or Bumbulan)

If you choose this, you are likely to spend first a few days in Bunaken off Manado’s coast. The transport are easier to arrange for this one (because both Manado and Gorontalo are larger cities) but still long.

The ferry from Gorontalo costs 90’000Rp.

Tips when stopping in Ampana and Gorontalo

There are airports both in Ampana and Gorontalo.

The airport in Ampana is quite new but has connections every day to Palu and Luwuk. From Palu you got connections to Jakarta, Makassar and Denpasar.

The issue is that there is no flight landing before the departure of the boats to Wakai, so you’ll have to spend a night in Ampana.

Update 2019 : the route Palu – Ampana has been closed ( source ).

I stayed at Oasis Hotel (standard room for 160,000IDR with AC and breakfast). In the same street you have a  losmen  that should offer cheaper room if you are on a budget.

If you are ready to pay the price (probably around 1,5 or 2 million IDR) it’s possible to charter a boat that will wait for you to land before departing for Togian. Hence it’s possible to land in Ampana in the end of the morning and in Togian during the afternoon.

Ask your hotel to arrange it from you or you can contact Dudi on Whatsapp : +62 852 4199 8586.

Given Gorontalo is a larger city, there is much more flights in and out. Please note that the harbour is quite far from the airport (44 km). It took me one hour on bentor at 4:30AM.

An exemple of planning : my trip

I took off from Jakarta on Friday at 5:00 to land in Palu at 8:35AM (1 hour difference from Jakarta). Then I catch another flight from Palu to Ampana that lasts 1 hour. It was scheduled at 10:40 but eventually left at 11:40.

I stayed overnight in Ampana and then wanted to take the speed boat on Saturday morning. Because of the bad weather it was cancelled so I had to take the slow boat which is a kind of cargo. The boat left at 10AM and arrived in Wakai around 14:00 in Katupat at 16:40.

On Monday I catched again the slow boat from Katupat to Malenge. On Thursday I chartered a boat to take me back to Wakai. Then I chartered another boat to take me to Una-Una (3 hours in theory but we left at 14:00 and arrived at 22:00 because we waited behind Kadidiri for the weather to calm down).

On the next Monday I went back from Una-Una to Wakai using the public boat and waited for the ferry at 16:00 to take me back to Gorontalo. We arrived at 4:30 and I catch my flight back to Jakarta at 07:00.

Chartering a boat

Local fishermen will be happy to take you around in their boat ( ketinting ). It will costs you more than the public boat but price remain reasonable especially if you share with other passengers.

Unless you have plenty of time you will likely need to charter a boat at one point to optimize your trip. Don’t hesitate to talk with the captain to include some stops.

For instance if you have to go back from Malenge to Katupat, you can ask your boat to stop first at a reef off Malenge for snorkeling, then at the jellyfish lake and finaly to Wakai.

Best time to go to visit Togian islands

Togian are nice year round but are quite crowded during the summer (especially in July and August). Reservations ahead is highly recommended.

If you are alone during this period, most of the resorts will ask you to share your room with someone else (or pay for 2 people).

Wind can also be quite strong from December to January and the boat planning is easily disrupted.

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Hi Elliot. What a great job you’made here! I was looking for info about Sulawesi and I am just happy I find this blog. Love everything, it is so helpfull and that way of talking about the traditional culture… All I could ask and more. Really an amazing blog. Congrats!

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Togean Islands – Sulawesi: One of the Best Kept Secret Spots of Indonesia

If I say Indonesia, I am sure Bali is the first thing to come to mind. Bali is what best sells and most travelers start their journey to Indonesia on this beautiful island. Many do not visit any other, and I can certainly understand why. However, with over 17,000 islands, Indonesia has so much more to offer! I will introduce you to an off the beaten path paradise in Indonesia that you should not miss: the Togean Islands of Sulawesi.

While planning my trip to Indonesia , I also made the ‘tourist mistake’ and thought of only visiting Java and Bali. Fortunately, a couple of days before flying to Jakarta, I met another Spanish girl who told me that the absolute highlight of her 9-months journey in Southeast Asia was the time she spent in an Indonesian star-shaped island I had never heard of before: Sulawesi (formerly known as Celebes).

Her eyes lit up while talking about the Togean (or Togian) Islands, located in central Sulawesi. In particular, she recommended a small island called Poya Lisa Bomba. The name made me curious (it sounds really funny in Spanish!). But when she explained that this is an island in the middle of nowhere, with no Internet and no phone signal (only peace, palms, and an incredible crystal clear sea), I made up my mind. After a quick research, I decided to change my plans and include Sulawesi and both the Togean and Poya Lisa islands to my itinerary. I was determined to see this fabulous off-the-beaten-path paradise with my own eyes.

Just one of the many empty sand beaches in the Togean islands (aka paradise).

Sulawesi (Celebes) – Unknown paradise in Indonesia

Sulawesi looks totally crazy on the map!

Although not as well known as Java or Bali, Sulawesi is one of the main islands of Indonesia and the eleventh largest island in the world . In the center of the Indonesian archipelago, Sulawesi’s star shape is easily recognizable. This massive and completely underrated island has a lot to offer to the traveler from extraordinary cultures to an unexplored mountainous hinterland and several unspoiled first class diving-spots.

Nowhere in Sulawesi is much more than 100km from the sea. Despite having stunning beaches, what will really take your breath away is all that is hidden under its crystal clear waters: an incredible underwater wonderland , filled with colorful corals and all kinds of fish. While the north and the south ends of the island are ideal for scuba divers, the center and the Togean islands are perfect places for snorkeling.

Togean Islands

Togean is an archipelago in the Gulf of Tomini, south of the Equator in the Pacific. As there are no airports on the islands and traveling by bus takes a long time in Sulawesi, the Togean are difficult to reach. To get to the islands, first, you will have to either reach Ampana (south of the islands) or Gorontalo (in the north of Sulawesi), which is a challenge by itself. The truth is, it is very difficult to get to the Togean… But believe me, it is even harder to leave them! Once your feet touch the sands of this unspoiled paradise, you will want to stay forever.

An unspoiled beach in Taupan island (Togean Islands, Sulawesi).

How to get to the Togean Islands

I don’t recommend attempting to go to the Togian islands unless you have time to spare. Getting there will take you a few days and it is very tiring. As mentioned above, there are no airports closer than 5 hours away by bus from Ampana (the main port to the Togean).

The nearest airports to Ampana are Poso and Luwuk but, being small airports, flights tend to be pricey. Lion Air offers low-cost domestic flights to Poso, Luwuk, and Palu (via Makassar) from major cities in Indonesia.

The cheapest way I found to get to the Togean is flying to Palu and then catching a public bus to Ampana (11-12 hours drive). However, be prepared for an endless trip in a van without air conditioning through a poor winding road while listening to loud traditional Indonesian music (all the way! ).

When you finally get to Ampana, I recommend staying the night at Lawaka Hotel  or Marina Cottages. In Marina Cottages there is a friendly guy called Edy who works there and will be happy to help you to arrange the ferry trip to the Togean islands.

Public ferries to the Togean leave almost every day from Ampana. At the time of writing (April 2015), ferries run on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays at 10:00 am. Bear in mind that schedules change often without notice.

The incredible crystal clear waters in the Togean islands.

Where to Stay in the Togean Islands

Poya Lisa Cottages in the Togean Islands of Sulawesi.

Poya Lisa  is the small island where I stayed in the Togian Islands. Located in front of Bomba Island and sandwiched by two white sand beaches, the island is so small that you can walk around the whole thing in no more than 5 minutes. Considering that all the island has to offer are 15 cottages and the incredible two beaches, Poya Lisa is a true haven of peace. With no cars and no traffic, the silence of the sea is seldom interrupted by the sound of a ship.

Another thing to consider is phone signal does not reach Poya Lisa and there is no Internet either. This is a perfect place to disconnect and forget the world and all its problems! (Something we all really should do at least once a year). It is also important to know electricity does not work 24 hours a day, and there is no running water on Poya Lisa island. You will only have electricity from 6:30 pm to 11 pm and water is stored in buckets that the island staff fills often for you.

The pier in Poya Lisa island (Sulawesi)

The cottages in Poyalisa are pretty basic: all they include is a bed, a mosquito net, and a small wardrobe. But honestly, who cares about this when you are in paradise? The important thing is all the cottages have sea views and a hammock on the veranda where you can relax; reading while listening to the gentle sound of the waves as a background.

Besides the fabulous scenery, the best of Poya Lisa Cottages is its price. The price per person per day ranges from 125,000 to 175,000 IDR (around 9€ and 12€) including everything! (Accommodation, three meals a day, a mid-afternoon snack, and unlimited coffee, tea, and drinking water).

The food is simple but truly delicious. It usually consists of rice and salad with fresh grilled fish. If you are a vegetarian, no problem! There are always vegetables, tofu or tempeh for you. I promise you will not starve and everything is yummy.

In short, Poya Lisa Cottages is an absolute paradise, affordable to all wallet sizes, and the perfect hideaway for those who want to get away from the tourist trail and want to experience beautiful Indonesia at its most authentic. I can’t recommend this place highly enough! For reservations, you can send an email to Edy at [email protected]

Other great places where you can stay in the Togean Islands are:

Kadidiri Paradise

Black Marlin  Dive Resort

Ale Beach Togean Islands

What to do at Poya Lisa Cottages and the Togean Islands

Relaxing at the hammock after a “hard day“ in Poya Lisa.

There is not much to do in Poya Lisa but this exactly the reason why we came here! A normal day at Poya Lisa usually consists of: sleeping, having breakfast, relaxing in the hammock, swimming, having lunch, taking a nap in the hammock, enjoying some of the most quiet beaches in Southeast Asia , snorkeling, having dinner, and going back to bed. Does not sound bad, does it?

But, besides lazing around, the Togeans are the best place you could dream of to explore the most amazing underwater world. All around Poyalisa island (no more than 15 to 45 minutes by boat) you will find beautiful reefs where you can spend hours snorkeling and swimming together with fishes of all kinds. If you are into diving, I can imagine the Togean are one of the best places for a diving trip in Indonesia .

Very close to Poya Lisa island there are incredible reefs where you can spend hours snorkeling.

Poya Lisa offers daily trips (half or full day) to nearby reefs. The boat trip price is 300,000 IDR (around 20€) to be split among all the guests joining the tour (with a maximum of 8). But, if you stay on the island for 10 or more nights, all the trips you make are for free. Do you need more excuses to stay here forever?

The wonderful beach of Taupan Island, a day trip you can do from Poyalisa.

Useful tips:

• Remember there are no shops or anything similar in Poya Lisa, bring everything you may need.
• When traveling in Asia, it never hurts to have a couple of toilet paper rolls in your backpack.
• It is very important to bring enough mosquito repellent containing DEET. Mosquitoes here are pretty nasty and there is a risk of both malaria and dengue.
• Having said that, never ever travel without a great travel insurance. You never know what may happen! I recommend getting the best travel insurance in the market: World Nomads. Click here to get a quote!

• Luckily, I did not see any, but there may be some rats on the island. Just in case, never leave food in your room!
• Do not forget your flashlight! The light is poor at night and the electricity is limited.

– For snorkeling trips, Poya Lisa offers snorkel gear that you can use for free. However, their gear was all banged up from use, so it is worth it to bring your own.

There are incredible reefs all around the Togean islands.

Underwater wonderland in the Togean Islands of Sulawesi.

These colorful guys were everyday under the pier in Poya Lisa Island.

As I said, every morning and afternoon, Poya Lisa offers boat trips to nearby reefs (Bomba Atoll, Katrin, Petri-Heidi, etc.) or Taupan Island. Of course, it is also possible to snorkel at Poya Lisa Island itself. Corals around Poya Lisa are not as impressive, but you can still see interesting things. I was surprised to see that the various fish families each have their own territory and they were always in the same place. Every time I snorkeled around Poyalisa, I saw the same kind of fishes in the same exact places, as if each family had their own house and I happened to visit them every afternoon.

Apart from nearby reefs, you can also visit the village of Tumbulawa, where at sunset it is possible to see a flock of hornbills returning to their nest. I did this trip as well but got distracted in the village (so humble but lovely!) and missed the arrival of the birds.

Football match in Tumbulawa village.

In total, I spent six incredible days on the island of Poyalisa. I have to admit it took a lot of determination to leave. It is a place that really captures and conquers you by its simplicity and the small details of the family running the business.

The amazing color of the waters in Poyalisa Island.

One of the things that struck me most when I arrived in Poyalisa was that all the other guests staying at that moment (all Westerners) were repeating on the island. All of them had already stayed in Poyalisa one or more times before; I was the only new guest on the island. The fact that everyone repeats says a lot about the magic of this place, but another surprising fact was that many of these guests could speak the Indonesian language fluently. I was amazed by this and asked them how came they could speak Bahasa Indonesian so good. Their response was they had come to Indonesia so many times before that eventually they learned the language. One of the guests told me, “I’m sure this will happen to you too,” and the truth is, after those magical days, I’m not sure if I will ever be able to speak the Indonesian language so well, but I do know that I will definitely repeat in Poya Lisa and this fabulous country many, many times… And I hope you do too !

Waters in Naupan island, one of the fabulous Togean Islands.

* Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links. At no additional cost to you, if you make a reservation through the links above, I will earn a small percentage. This helps me to keep my website running. I really appreciate your support. Thanks!

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Ana comes from southern Spain, but you'll hardly ever find her there. Although she loves her country, she longs for the unknown and has a strong desire to travel the world! She now lives in Istanbul where she teaches Spanish and writes about things she loves.

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Couldn’t agree more! –> “The truth is it is very difficult to get to the Togean… But believe me, it is much harder to leave them!”

Magical! So beautiful. Would love to go to Togeans soon!

Thank you, its the most unspoiled paradise I have ever been to! Hope you can make it soon 🙂

I am Indonesian, and I appreciate you write this. Honestly, the famous underwater destinantions in sulawesi are wakatobi and bunaken. Togean is little bit harder to get there. Thank you for your guide 🙂

Hi Ana, thank you for your review & pictures about poya lisa cottages, because im planning to visit togean and stay there, very helpful 🙂 little bit embarassed because you’re foreigner but who first came there than me hahaha

Thank you for your comment Jonathan, I am so jealous you are going to the Togean!! You should definitely stay in Poya Lisa cottages, serious paradise. Enjoy! 🙂

Hi Anna, its such an honor you write about your stay in Togean. I’ve been in Togean in 2014 and stay at Poyalisa about 3 days and Pak Edy also help us to arrange our stay in Poyalisa, his very humble yet funny men, i love him! And just so you know, i’m Indonesian and during my traveling journey to Togean i only met expat tourist, no local people at all except the owner of resort, how embarrassing *sigh* . I’m planning to get back to Togean in 2017 with some of my friends. Nice blog and nice to know you 🙂

Hello Fitri, thank you so much for your nice comment 🙂 oh, I love the Togean, it is seriously the best off the beaten path paradise I have ever seen! I dream of coming back someday! Enjoy your new trip there and nice to meet you too!

Hi Cara, thanks a lot for your comment 🙂 Getting to Poyalisa will take you at least 2 days and 2 to come back, but it is really worthy for what you will find there… ultimate paradise! I think you should do it, just be aware of the time. Hugs!

Oh, I am looking for a secret destination for beach life in Indonesia rather than Lombok or Borneo. And I am so lucky to come across this article. Thanks so much for the great post!

Togean Island is also known Togian Island which is famous for dive destination.

Yes, an amazing place for snorkeling or diving 🙂

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Togean National Park – Responsible travel guide to Togean Islands 30

Indonesia with over 17 000 islands still has lots of paradise destinations which are far from the hit of mass tourism. One of them is the Togean Islands, Sulawesi, a part of Togean National Park. I stayed there for a couple of days, discovering remote beaches, snorkeling and looking for practices of responsible tourism in Togean Islands.

What to do in Togean Islands?

Of course, you can simply do nothing, as it feels the best on the paradise islands. Take the coconut in your hand, bamboo straw and swing in the hammock for the whole day. However, for those who are curious to see more, I prepared these few ideas on what to do in Togean Islands.

1. Stingless jellyfish lake in Togean Islands

There are just few places in the world, where you can swim with dozens of stingless jellyfish. It’s one of the reasons people want to come to Togeans and experience floating with aliens. Apart from jellyfish lake in Togeans, I went to Derawan Islands in Kalimantan with 4 types of the jellyfish. In both cases, it used to be an open sea, but due to the geological changes, became lakes where animals just got stuck inside. With time, creatures lost its predators and become stingless. Jellyfish lake in Togean Islands is a beautiful site with no tourists, just you and the nature. Just next to the lake there is one beautiful empty beach, called Karina Beach , which is worth the stop as well.

Several resorts in Togeans offer diving with an instructor as well as PADI open water courses. The price for a dive in Togeans is around 30 € and for open water course around 250 €. The area is rich in marine life, so I am sure you won’t get disappointed and get to see plenty of fish, dolphins and sharks. There are numerous diving sites around Togeans and 6 reefs, named with the numbers.

3. Snorkeling in Togean Islands

Corals are often just 100 metres from the beach of the resorts in Togeans, where you can go anytime you want. Apart from that, you can take a snorkeling tour to many destinations, depending of your resort offer and island you are staying in Togeans. I went for a snorkeling tour to California reef nr 1 and it wasn’t worth it. Unfortunately, it was damaged by dynamit fishing long time ago and corals are very poor.

4. Bajau people in Togean Islands

Islands inhabit the Sea Gypsies, also called Baju or Bajau people. I had a chance to meet Bajau people in Malaysia, on the islands near Semporna, and I was amazed about this unique ethnic group which spend their life on the sea.

Sea Gypsies long time ago left southern islands of the Philippines because of the conflict. In search for the new life, immigrants were coming by boats towards Borneo and Indonesian islands. Locals didn’t like newcomers, so Sea Gypsies had to stay on the sea. They used to have no nationality, live on their boats and move from place to another for fishing. With generations they got so good in diving and can stay under the water for the longest human being can stay without any equipment. Their eyes can see sharper under the water as well. It’s amazing how human body can adapt to the conditions! Their meals consist of fish and sea food but they are eager to trade their fishing with locals for rice and vegetables.

Unlike in Malaysia , Baju people in Togean Islands seem to be settled and blended with locals quite well. There are some Bajau villages in Togean Islands which are worth visiting. The most popular one is Papan Island, which is a little island near Malenge, connected with one kilometer long wooden bridge. Baju village is tiny, but it has nice views on the surrounding waters and lovely wooden houses on stilts. The bridge gives opportunity for local kids to go to school in Malenge. Another villages of Baju people are on Tapuan Island, depending on which island you stay, you will be able to see some of them joining a boat tour.

Papan Village

5. Relax on the best beaches in Sulawesi

6. Spend the night on the uninhabited island

The archipelago consists of 56 islands and islets and you have a great opportunity to experience Robinson Cruzoe life. All you need to do is ask some locals to take you to one of the islands and pick you up the next day. The rest, you design by yourself. The great thing is also seeing the fluorescent plankton at night which are the most visible when there is no lights around. Curious to try?

There are few nice options for hiking in Togeans. In some resorts you will have no option to move other than a boat, but sometimes there are paths in the jungle. They may lead from one resort to another like on Malenge or to the village, like in Bomba. On Una Una Island, there is the only volcano you can hike on Togeans. It’s just over 500 m high, so not too demanding. The hike to Una Una may take up to 2 hours. Lastly, I would like to mention hike to Wakai Waterfall. If you happen to be in Wakai village, you can take few hours for a lovely hike to the waterfall. You just need to ask locals for the way.

Togean National Park

Nowadays, since the Togean National Park is established, control over the reefs exists. Moreover, Baju people seem to get accepted in the society and settled down therefore, they have better access to education and job opportunities. Togean National Park tries to rebuild what has been destroyed with coral transplantation. They have a program which plants coral in the certain areas and it works well but of course, requires a decades of work to rebuild the aggressive fishing effects. Since Togean National Park started to focus on tourism, it’s their interest to protect the reefs, otherwise no tourists will go there. Tourism gives jobs for locals and better money than fishing. It gives me hope to put a final end to the destructive methods of fishing.

Responsible travel on Togeans – problem of waste

Togean Islands have absolutely no waste management. Keep in mind that all the waste you leave will either be burnt or end up in the sea. Basically, I noticed that people having waste on land, burn it and houses on the water or ferries, drop it into the sea. Some resorts in Togeans try to reuse and recycle but in the end they still have to burn their trash. Remember that it’s not just their waste, but also a bunch of trash they collect on the beach every single day. Sometimes when I was snorkeling, I couldn’t see much because some plastic bags kept covering my mask. Lots of marine animals die swallowing the plastic they cannot digest. The situation is alarming. Therefore, responsible tourism in Togeans is really difficult, but we should all try to protect this amazing place and create as little impact as possible.

If you are responsible traveler, try to bring as less waste as you can to the islands and possibly bring your trash back to the mainland. There is no recycling in Sulawesi either but at least less burning and throwing to the sea as it will probably end up on the landfill.

Tips for responsible travel in Togean Islands

1. responsible snorkeling.

Be careful about using fins while snorkeling to don’t destroy the corals. They are very fragile and easy to damage. In the jellyfish lake in Togeans, it’s strictly forbidden to use fins, because it’s easy to hit and harm slowly moving aliens.

2. No chemical sun screen

It’s important that you don’t apply chemical sunscreen which harms marine life, especially jellyfish. Nowadays, you can easily order organic sunscreen which is totally out of natural products.

3. Organic cosmetics

All the shampoo or soap you use, will end up in the sea or in the soil. It’s important to carry organic cosmetics and natural oils instead of poisoning nature around.

4. Take public ferry

Places, where all the resorts in Togeans are, have no roads or cars. The only transportation and food delivery is by boats, often with old engine which produces a lot of carbon emission. Instead of having a luxury of private charter, please check before for the public boats schedule.

5. Support local economy

Get yourself coconut, buy responsible souvenirs from Everto organisation to support locals. I was able to buy cold press coconut oil on Walea Island, hand made by locals. You can also buy local honey which will support bee-keepers and help to save the bees from extinction. Shopping locally while traveling is very important for local economy!

How to get to Togeans?

It’s not so easy to get to Togean Islands in Sulawesi. That’s one of the reasons why islands are still not spoiled by mass tourism. The closest airports will be in Ampana, Gorontalo, Luwuk and Poso. Those don’t offer many flights and are pricy. Remember that it’s more eco-friendly to travel by land, as planes have huge carbon emission. The ports to enter Togean Islands are Ampana from the south and Gorontalo from the North. There are also public buses connecting Ampana and Gorontalo with other cities. Some tourists prefer to use shared taxis.

Traveling around Togeans

Heading to Barracuda Beach

There are few public ferries companies running around Togean National Park. Before coming to Togeans I couldn’t be more confused with planning the trip from one island to another as I didn’t know which informations were outdated. The only reliable source of information about the ferries schedule in Togean Islands were the resorts in Togeans I contacted directly. The communication was slow as there is very poor internet connection on Togeans Islands, but they were able to provide me updates information about the ferries.

There are almost no roads in Togean National Park, the only transportation is by boats. When you arrive to the port of any island, there will be free transfer boat taking you to the resort you booked. If you didn’t book anything, you would have to rent a boat to take you to the desired resort. There is no ATM on Togean Islands , so take a lot of cash with you.

Resorts in Togeans

The sure facts is that, wherever you stay in Togean Islands, it will be beautiful. I saw a few islands, and I have to admit the landscape is quite similar and stunning everywhere. Therefore, your choice on which island you stay in Togeans should be based on your activities: diving, just chilling on the beach, snorkeling, you want to be social or looking for a honey moon escape in the remote destination.

What’s common for all the resorts in Togeans, is that you pay one price per day, which includes all meals and accommodation, as there are no shops or restaurants and usually nowhere to go. The prices vary from 200-800 k rupiah per night. Apart from that, all the resorts in Togeans are on the sunset side, so be sure to admire incredible sunsets every single day. Here are the resorts in Togeans I stayed in. All completely different and for various clienteles.

Lia Beach is a true Robinson Crusoe escape, far away from anything, ideal for honeymooners, perfect for meditation or yoga. There are only two bungalows, both very spacious, luxury and built from natural materials, mostly bamboo. The design is like no other resort in Togeans, because the architect came here from Bali . The beach is totally isolated, you cannot go anywhere else, except the 5 minutes trail to the sunset view point (which is so romantic). The corals near Lia Beach are great for snorkeling, so you can hop in the water whenever you want. From the paid activities, resort offers snorkeling tour to the nearest reef – nr 6.

After trying the food in few resorts in Togeans, Lia beach is unbeatable. The food is a great mixture of French and European cuisine with use of local products. I can hardly think of anything better I ate those few months traveling in Sulawesi and Kalimantan.

Lia Beach has inspiring eco-friendly attitude. From natural materials of the bungalows, through bamboo straws, local products to tiny shop where you can purchase eco-friendly items. They collect trash every day from the beach and have strict recycling policy. Every soft plastic they find in the sea, they dry on the strings. Later, they fill the puffs for sitting.

The only disadvantage is the far location from Ampana, not suitable for those who have little lime. It took me the whole day by public ferry to get there. If you want to visit Sea Gypsies or Jellyfish Lake in Togeans, you better do it from other islands as from Lia Beach would be quite far and pricy. What’s more, it won’t be a good fit for those who want to dive as there is no dive resort around.

My bungalow in Lia Beach

There are 9 bungalows in Poki Poki , all along the beach. Some of them are really simple wooden huts, with western toilet but Indonesian shower – bucket. The others are more beautiful and have a western shower and a large terrace with a hammock in front. There is a trekking path in the forest to the nearest village – Bomba, which you can either do by yourself or ask for a guide to lead you. They have a free kayak which you can use for a romantic sunset tour. From the paid activities, they offer stingless jellyfish lake, snorkeling tour to Taupan Atol, Bird Watching in Tumbalawa village and cooking classes. While there are many cool paid tours and activities at Poki Poki, the beach is not really good for swimming and there is no nice corals near the resort. There is a diving center just 3 km away run by neighbour resort, so it’s possible to have the dives from them and stay at Poki Poki. Cottages are very near Ampana, so it’s a great fit for those who don’t have much time.

My hut in Poki Poki

Kadidiri Paradise

I think Kadidiri Paradise is one of the biggest resorts in Togeans. Nearly 30 bungalows and dive center drive lots of tourists. However, mass tourism attitude does not go along with the quality, which I think could be better in terms of food and bungalows maintenance. However, it’s a great fit for people which like to be social, as there is a bar and in the evening all the guests hang out together or make a bonfire on the beach. The great advantage of Kadidiri Island is the location. Amazing corals in front of the resort, so you can go snorkeling whenever you want and easily join other guests for a snorkeling tour to the other places. It’s also very near the Jellyfish Lake in Togeans and boat tours go there almost every single day.

Running away from a crowd, you can take a free kayak and withing 15 minutes heading left from the jetty, you will find yourself on Barracuda Beach which is totally empty and beautiful. On the left of the Barracuda Beach, there is a path leading to the tops of the cliff, which is a great spot for watching the sunset.

My room in Kadidiri Paradise

The Bee is a nature lover and tea addict. Loves the idea of slow life and responsible traveling, constantly trying to improve to bee more eco-friendly. Appreciates old cultures and traditions, loves to immerse with locals, listen to ethnic music as well as taste regional food and drinks. Her favorite spots while traveling are family houses and street markets.

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30 thoughts on “ Togean National Park – Responsible travel guide to Togean Islands ”

I’m so glad I came across this post! I’m just planning to visit the Togean Islands this September and this post gave me some useful information. The bungalows at Lea Beach look so cute, I would love to stay there! da

You will have a great time in Togeans Daniel, Islands are so beautiful!

Well, this place looks like paradise on earth. Sounds like there are lots of great things to do or you could just do nothing as well. I love the idea of staying on a deserted island for the night – what a cool experience. Thanks for including the tips in travelling responsible, such an important thing to do.

Here in the Philippines, we also have the Badjau community, they live in the southern part of the Philippines. They are one of the skillful people especially living their whole life near the waters. It was awesome of you to visit Togean. Hope we can explore it as well.

I haven’t been on the south of the Philippines. Is is safe there?

Not enough people use enough foresight to behave in a responsible way when traveling, purely doing it for their own recreation and pleasure. I really appreciated this guide and would love to see one for every country!

Working on it 😉

I think, if I was at Togean, I would relax for some time and do nothing. But eventually, I would love to see how locals live. The story of Baju people is fascinating. I wonder, how easy is it to get to know them? This kind of unique lifestyle is something I would love to document. But… I wonder, how they would react to a person hanging out with a camera.

Bajau people in Togeans are Sea Nomads anymore. They settled in the villages, have school, mosque and iPhones.

What a beautiful spot you found, these islands look so peaceful. I’m happy you mentioned the stingless jellyfish. I saw a travel vlogger post about snorkeling with hundreds of them, it looked so cool. I think they’d still scare me a little, but what a unique experience. Those bungalows look like a fantastic idea as well by the way. I’ve always wanted to rent a beach bungalow on an island somewhere. Someday!

Pristine beaches where you are alone is what I like the most. That’s why I go to Croatia every year. There, I can find some secret beaches without sun loungers, umbrellas and a resort atmosphere that I do not like. I would love to visit Sulawesi and spend days on these beautiful beaches with coconut palms that you write about. Spending the night on an uninhabited island is also something I would gladly do when I was there. These islands are a real paradise! Now it’s my dream to visit Sulawesi.

If you like pristine beahes where you are alone, you would really love Togeans! That’s a pradise!

Togean Nation Park looks absolutely splendid in your pictures! It looks no less than a paradise itself!

Beautiful islands and such a well written post. I am definitely visiting these islands for some relaxation and some fun.

I love your blogs on food and responsible tourism. This one is really good as it gave me an idea to interact with the Bajau people. Also, I have never heard of stingless jellyfish before! It’s a relief that there are jellyfish like that so I can carelessly snorkel there. I wish more power to the non-profit organisation Everto, which encourages locals to collect and reuse plastic.

I’d never even heard of Togean National Park, so thanks a lot for bringing this to my attention and giving it a beautiful little write up!

Nice site about the Togean Islands, and you have described it well, who knows, maybe I will go there once, thanks for sharing

Glad you like it and I am sure you will enjoy Togeans, it’s a pradise!

i heard about the place and its very beautiful. thanks for sharing the details and picture are great.

Thanks for stepping in Ravin, Togeans are wonderful!

Thank you for this post man. its very informative.

Great pictures I must say! This is a great article! I enjoyed a lot reading it and really want to go to Togean National Park and see all that I see in these pictures! The landscapes are just fantastic!

Thanks for Sharing nice post

My pleasure 🙂

An uninhabited island is my dream. You had a super trip, the photos are incredible …

The Togeans should be high on everyone’s beach bucketlist. As you have described its such a beautiful place to go.

Thank you for your article. It will definitely help me a lot…

Great post. I’ve read guides about responsible travel before but they were general tips. It’s nice to read one that is specific to a location! I’ve learnt a couple of new things from this post!

Exploring the Togean Islands is an amazing experience! With its stunning beaches and lush coconut trees, you can relax and enjoy some fun in the sun. And for those looking for a bit more adventure, there’s incredible marine life and rare species waiting to be discovered by diving. But no matter how you decide to explore the Togean Islands, it’s important that we do so responsibly.

Great post admin thanks for sharing keep it up

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Togean & Bangai – 8 days itinerary

| Gorontalo – Luwuk | April – October | 8 days |

Set sail on a 10 – day journey to the remote Togean or Banggai Islands. Remote secluded and off the tourist radar, these islands are waiting to explore.

Customizing your itinerary

Togean Islands

Set in Tomini Bay along the northern coast of Sulawesi, the Togean Islands are a pristine paradise with a variety of treasures waiting to be discovered. Here, you’ll meet the nomadic Bajau people. Best known for their remarkable deep dives armed with only a speargun and goggles, the Bajau have moved to coastal villages while keeping their sea-faring traditions alive. Located in the most western part of the Togeans is Mount Una Una, where guests can adventure to the top of an active volcano. The underwater world is equally remarkable with bucket-list adventures of swimming alongside the magnificent whale sharks and swimming with thousands of stingless jellyfish.

Banggai Islands

The lush tropical Banggai Islands are a natural paradise located off the Eastern coast of Sulawesi. Coastal mangrove forests come alive with the sights and sounds of endemic birds sheltered in the trees – Warblers, Flycatchers, and brightly colored Lorikeets, to names a few.

Daily Activities

Welcome to Gorontalo! 

Members of the crew will meet you at the airport or hotel and transfer you to the Gorontalo Harbor to embark on your journey. Enjoy a welcome beverage and time to meet the remaining crew members. After time to relax and settle in, we may visit the nearby seaside village of Botubarani, where whale sharks are often spotted gliding at the surface in search of food. If luck is on our side, we’ll have a once in a lifetime experience of swimming alongside these magnificent creatures. Since they are wild and are free to roam the waters, we cannot guarantee their location. If they are not near the village of Botubarani, we will visit the Portuguese-built Fort Otanaha, where will we have a panoramic view of the Gorontalo city and Limboto Lake. After dinner, we will set sail for an overnight voyage to the Togean Islands, a lush tropical paradise located in the Tomini Bay.

Una Una Volcano

This morning, you’ll enjoy breakfast on the deck as we near the volcanic island of Una Una for a day of adventure both above water and below. Upon arrival, the ship will moor at a local village where you will have a chance to meet the local villagers and have a glimpse at island life. For those intrepid travelers, you can spend the day trekking to the top of Mount Una Una. The adventure starts off on a motorbike, before passing through dry river beds and thick jungle before the final push to the crater lake where you’ll enjoy the well earned panoramic view of the surrounding islands. If you prefer a more relaxing day, we can jump in the water to snorkel or dive the bountiful reefs are surrounding the island. 

Pulau Togean

We’ll head out to Mariona Lake for a once in a lifetime experience of snorkeling amongst thousands of stingless jellyfish. Sheltered and protected in this remote part of the world and with no direct predators, the jellyfish have adapted to their environment shedding their protection, their sting. Afterward, we’ll sail to a nearby Karina Bay to enjoy a delicious picnic lunch prepared by the crew. The remaining day is yours to relax as you please, kick back on the beach, or snorkel over a pristine reef located off the shore.

Pulau Melenge

Departing before dawn, we will trek set out for a bird-watching on Pulau Melenge. You’ll notice the forest comes alive with the sights and sounds of endemic birds sheltered in the trees – Warblers, Flycatchers, and brightly colored Lorikeets, to names a few. Afterward, we’ll take the tenders to the northside of the island for a refreshing snorkel at the famous Atoll Hotel California Reef. After a well-deserved lunch on board, we’ll sail to Pulau Talatokoh to meet the Bajau people, a nomadic people who rely on the vast water for sustenance. Due to the ever-changing conditions at sea, the Bajau have adapted to a life on land, living in coastal villages in homes built on stilts while keeping to their traditions passed down through generations. The Bajau are excellent free divers and spear-fishermen. They can hold their breath underwater for up to 10 minutes. You’ll have a chance to explore their culture to gain insight into their daily lives. Later this evening, the boat will set sail to Pulau Seribu.

Pulau Seribu

This morning we will depart for the remote islands of Pulau Seribu.

Surrounded by pristine beaches fringed with palm trees, the islands are mostly uninhabited, and you’ll have the entire island to explore. Snorkel over vibrant beaches teeming with life, kayak around the islands, or simply relax enjoying the moment. Later tonight, we’ll set sail to the Banggai Islands.

Day 6 & 7

Over the next two days, we’ll explore the pristine natural beauty of the Banggi Islands. You’ll awake to the sun glistening on the water, as we approach the village of Banggai. This morning, we’ll have time to explore by bentor (motorized pedicab) to explore the Sultan’s Palace, visit a local market filled with brightly colored fruit and try some delicious Indonesia street food, and the ceremonial house (Rumah Adat) of an indigenous tribe. Afterward, we’ll return to the harbor where we may see the Banggai cardinalfish in the shallows. Endemic to this part of the world, these beautiful tiny fish are on the endangered list due to being collected for the aquarium trade. We’ll continue onto Tanjung Mosongan, where we will have the afternoon to explore the exquisite shallow reef and a waterfall that flows directly into the sea. Later this afternoon, we will sail to Luwuk.

Today we bid farewell to the Togeans and Banggai Islands as we make our way to Luwuk. Upon arrival, the crew will transfer you from the boat to the airport in time for your departure flight. 

Please note that all itineraries are subject to change, weather conditions, harbor clearances, flight schedule changes, and other deciding factors.

Itinerary Route

Suggested itineraries…

Bali Nusa Lombok

Anambas Island

Togean & Banggai Islands

Komodo National Park

Raja Ampat & Papua

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How to get to Togean Islands

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Getting around

There are two primary entry points for the Togeans—Gorontalo from the north and Ampana from the south. Gorontalo can be easily reached by flight from Makassar or Manado, but is roughly double the distance (over 100 kilometres versus 40 kilometres) from the Togeans compared to Ampana, and has a less frequent boat service. Ampana has direct flight connections to Palu (and onwards to Makassar and Jakarta) but it is otherwise close to a day of overland travel from Rantepao in Tana Toraja and two days overland from Makassar. If you are in a hurry, fly. From/to Gorontalo Before the airport opened at Ampana, Gorontalo was the best access point because it had an airport. Now it makes less sense to approach the Togeans from the north unless you are already in North Sulawesi, for instance in Manado. The boat services are less frequent and can be irregular—if one of the ferries is out of action (for example for repairs) it may not be replaced with another service and you will be stranded. The Tuna Tomini departs Gorontalo on Tuesday and Friday at 17:00 arriving in Wakai at 06:00 the next day. In the reverse direction,it leaves Wakai on Monday and Thursday at 16:00 and arrives in Gorontalo at 05:00 the next morning. Either way the economy fare is 73,000 rupiah for an adult, and business class is 89,000 rupiah. If you can snare a four-bed cabin (two sets of bunks) it's an additional 400,000-500,000 rupiah. We slept on the deck and survived. From/to Bumbulan You’re only likely to find yourself using Bumbulan as a base if you are already in the area, you’re in Gorontalo on the wrong day, or the Tuna Tomini is out of action. Be sure to check in Gorontalo (or with your resort) that this service is operating before heading over to Bumbulan, as it is about 4-5 hours from Gorontalo by car. The Cengkih Afo departs Bumbulan on Sunday and Thursday at 09:00, arriving at Dolong in Walea Kodi at 14:00. It then leaves Dolong at 16:00 arriving in Ampana at 02:00 the next day. In the reverse direction, it leaves Ampana on Tuesday and Friday at 21:00, arrives at Dolong at 07:00 the next morning then leaves again at 08:00 and arrives in Bumbulan at 13:00. Either way the economy fare is 22,000 rupiah for an adult, and business class is 35,000 rupiah. From/to Ampana Now that Ampana has an airport with flight connections to Palu (and onwards to Makassar and Jakarta) it is the preferred gateway to the Togean Islands with multiple ferry and speedboat options to choose from. The venerable Puspita Sari does the Togean milk-run from Ampana, leaving on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. It departs Ampana at 10:00 arriving at Wakai at 14:00, Katupat at 16:00, Malenge at 17:15, Popolii at 19:15 and Dolong at 20:30. In the return direction, it leaves Dolong on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 22:00 arriving at Popolii at 22:45 and Malenge at 23:00 where it stays moored till 05:30 (you can sleep on the boat) when it then leaves for Katupat, arriving there at 06:30, then Wakai at 08:00 and Ampana at 14:00. These times other than the initial departure time are estimates only and are subject to weather conditions. Ex Ampana, the fare is Wakai 65,000 rupiah, Katupat 70,000 rupiah, Malenge 75,000 rupiah and Popolii and Dolong 80,000 rupiah. If you're in a bit more of a rush, the express Wamburabura boat runs a near identical route taking around six hours less time—bargain! From Ampana, it leaves on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. It departs Ampana at 10:00 arriving at Wakai at 12:00, Katupat at 13:00, Malenge at 13:30, Pulau Papan at 13:45, Popolii at 14:15 and Dolong at 14:30. In the reverse direction, it leaves Dolong on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 06:30 arriving at Popolii at 06:45, Pulau Papan at 07:15, Malenge at 07:30, Katupat at 08:00, Wakai at 08:30 and Ampana at 11:00. These times, other than the initial departure time, are estimates only and are subject to weather conditions. Ex Wakai, the fare is Wakai 90,000 rupiah, Katupat 100,000 rupiah, Malenge 110,000 rupiah, Pulau Papan 110,000 rupiah and Popolii and Dolong 120,000 rupiah. Importantly, neither the Puspita Sari nor the Wamburabura will stop at Bomba nor any of the resorts west of Wakai, so you need to get off at Wakai and backtrack if you use either of these services, or use one of the speedboat services (see below). There are two speedboat services which operate between Ampana and Wakai, the Cahaya Manakara and the Hercules . The Hercules leaves Ampana at 09:00 and the Cahaya Manakara leaves at 13:00. Each service takes around 1.5 hours to reach Wakai and roughly half that to reach the resorts around Bomba. In the reverse direction, the Hercules leaves Wakai at 13:00 and the Cahaya Manakara leaves at 09:00. Both services charge 130,000 rupiah one way—regardless of where you are getting off. Both will drop off at Bomba Divers, Poya Lisa and Island Retreat. For Poki Poki ask to be dropped at Bomba Divers and they’ll pick you up from there (prior arrangement advisable). In high season these speedboats fill up fast and booking your tickets a day or so in advance is prudent. If they are full or don’t stop to pick you up, a charter to Ampana can cost you over 1,000,000 rupiah (depending on where you are coming from). When the weather is bad, they do not run—often for days on end. The speedboat gets to Ampana too late for the flight to Palu , so if you are aiming to fly out you will need to overnight in Ampana. Lastly there is a regular cargo service between Bomba and the Labuhan port to the east of Ampana proper, departing Labuhan on Sunday, Tuesday and Friday at 09:00 and arrive in Bomba at 12:00; in the reverse direction, they leave Bomba on Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 09:00, arriving in Labuhan around 12:00. In practice, we found this service to run daily, with sometimes three or four boats leaving each day. Ask around in Ampana or at your guesthouse in the Togeans for the latest information in this regard; do not rely on them being daily if you're planning from afar. The fare is 35,000 rupiah. Bear in mind that the service to and from Labuhan doubles as a cargo service and you may spend considerable time (like hours) waiting for the boat to be loaded and unloaded—bring a book. From/to Una Una The access point to Una Una is neither Gorontalo nor Ampana, rather it is Wakai. A public boat leaves Wakai for Una Una on Sunday, Tuesday and Friday, leaving Wakai at 08:00 and arriving at Una Una at 11:00. In the reverse direction, it leaves Una Una at 07:00 and pulls into Wakai at 10:00. The fare in either direction is 35,000 rupiah.

If you are heading south further into Central and Southern Sulawesi, you should leave via Ampana. Sample destinations from Ampana include: Luwuk: A minivan departs daily at 08:00, taking seven hours and costing 150,000 rupiah. Makassar : Departs daily at 23:00, taking roughly 30 hours and costing 280,000 rupiah. This bus goes via Tentena, Pendolo and Palopo. If you're planning on doing this in one hit, we'd recommend considering flying to Makassar via Palu as the airfare can be quite affordable if booked sufficiently in advance. Palu: Departs daily at 10:00 and 17:00, taking 10-12 hours and costing 150,000 rupiah. Poso: Departs daily at 10:00 and 17:00, taking four hours and costing 85,000 rupiah. If heading north to Manado and Bunaken, you should leave via Gorontalo, which has both flight and bus connections to Manado, though many choose to hire a Kijang rather than take the bus.

Getting to your resort If you have made a reservation, your resort may pick you up at the village most convenient for them—they should let you know which and they may require a minimum stay to pick you up for free. If you don't have a reservation, cross your fingers they have a boat there to meet the ferry. If they aren't around, you can always offer to pay a local to take you to your resort. Boat charters, especially if you are the only passenger, can get expensive fast—we spent millions on boat charters doing the research for this guide! Essentially the accommodation on the Togeans is broken into a few clusters. For the western-most resorts (so Island Retreat, Poya Lisa, Poki Poki, Bomba Divers) use the speedboat service from Ampana. For anything on Kadidiri, get to Wakai (from either Gorontalo or Ampana). For the digs near Katupat, Malenge and Walea Kodi (get to Dolong or Popolii), the services from Ampana are better than Gorontalo as you’ll get closer to where you are headed before you have to deal with charters. In high season, when they’ll likely be other travellers heading to your island, it isn’t so bad as you can share fares, but in low season, a charter can easily cost 600,000 from Wakai to Malenge (for example), more still to Walea Kodi. Exploring The local inter-island public boats are not particularly convenient for either casual island hopping or onwards transport out of the islands. For example, if you're coming from Malenge or Katupat by public boat and want to get to Gorontalo on the Tuna Tomini night ferry, you'll have to leave your resort very early in the morning and then hang around all day waiting in Wakai ... and there's not a lot to do in Wakai to pass the time—take our word for it. To skip over this tedious arrangement, many travellers opt to charter an outrigger—either through their resort, or independently. Time taken varies somewhat depending on conditions and the size/power of your boat, so take the following as rough estimates. The prices below are for one-way travel and the entire boat—there is some scope for bargaining, especially if you only have one or two people, while if you have four or more, the price may increase a touch. Return trips will cost less than double and by combining various legs you can roll your own snorkelling trip should you have exhausted the options provided by your accommodation. All fares are ex Wakai and should be taken as a rough estimate (they have been taken from resort websites or personal experience), trips can take considerably longer in poor seas. Note also these boats do not have life jackets and at night often have no navigation lights whatsoever. Wakai to Lia Beach/Pulo Tiga: 900,000 rupiah 3.5-4 hours Wakai to Malenge Resorts: 500-600,000 rupiah 2-3 hours Wakai to Katupat Resorts: 400,000 rupiah 1-2 hours Wakai to Kadidiri Resorts: 100,000 rupiah 1 hour Wakai to Bomba Resorts: 500,000 rupiah 2-3 hours

The Togeans do not have an airport. The two closest airports are Gorontalo in the north and Ampana in the south. Ampana has flight connections to Palu from where you can then fly on to Makassar, Bali and Jakarta (among other spots). Gorontalo has flight connections to Makassar and a selection of other destinations. Importantly, the boats arrive in Ampana too late for the flight out of Ampana—there is just the one flight a day, with Wings Air (a LionAir subsidiary) so you need to overnight in Ampana. The morning flight does arrive early enough though for people to catch the afternoon speedboat. Ampana is closer to the islands and has a wider selection of boat services, so we’d expect to see more flights added in the future—there was talk of a direct Ampana to Makassar flight being added when we were there in April 2018, which would allow people to travel from Bali to Ampana in a day. Wait and see.

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Unbeatable experience! The boat was super comfy and fast. Made our island-hopping dream a breeze! Best way to travel the Togeans!

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The boat trip was wonderful, even saw dolphins. on una una we stayed at pristine paradise dive resort which is highly recommend.

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