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Ivan's ECU Flash - saw this on VROC

Moderators: the2knights , Highway Rider

Post by cranky » Sat Aug 06, 2016 3:10 pm

Re: Ivan's ECU Flash - saw this on VROC

Post by HMB Don » Mon Aug 08, 2016 10:28 pm

Post by keith » Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:43 pm

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Review of Ivan's latest ECU update

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I just recently sent my ECU out to Ivan expecting to get the ECU flash, power commander, air filter, and block off plates. He called me and said that he is now offering a new package - one that you don't need the power commander for! He said that he essentially has added all of the tune to the ECU, enabling someone to get just an ECU flash and get the benefit that previously required the ECU + PC. This saves you the money of having to buy a power commander, but also means that if you ever wanted to go get dyno tuned, you'd have to buy a power commander first. In my case, I don't plan on any further updates, so just the ECU was fine with me. I installed the air filter and block off plates as well and boy what a difference. I just got back from my first day out since the upgrade and wow, what a transformation below 6,000 RPM. I still have a stock cat/midpipe with slip ons, so while there is a bigger hit (and meaner snarl) in the top range, the biggest difference is down low. Not only is there WAAAYYY more power, but it is also significantly smoother. I previously used a bad habit, where I would slip the clutch a bit as I rolled on the throttle to prevent the imbalance caused by the jerkiness of the throttle response. I no longer need or desire to do this at all - rolling on the throttle again is buttery smooth. I am also convinced that the higher RPM's have become less buzzy. I can't wait for summer where I'll be reaping the benefits of the lower fan turn on temperature as well. For anyone on the fence about doing this upgrade, especially considering the now cheaper cost of doing it, definitely take the plunge. Happy riding! PS: One minor thing of note, Ivan mentioned that the ECU tune was actually done on a bike with the full Akro setup. According to him, he wasn't concerned at all about using it on my essentially stock bike. I told me he'd be happy at any time to go back to a flash+PC if I wanted it, but I think I am more than happy with the current setup. Even if there would be another couple hp in getting the tune specifically for the stock exhaust, the rideability has improved so much that I am happy.  

Congrats on getting the ECU flashed. Ivan has done a great job with our bike and the improvement over stock is nearly transformational. Having the fuel maps done in the ECU is excellent as the PC install is kind of a pain. The injector connectors can be a pain to remove.  

And here is another Australian. I have looked up places on the internet trying to find an easier way to get my ECU modded but to no avail. You US guys have some suggestions? I don't fancy sending my ECU halfway through the planet.  

How much does it cost?  

$350: Ivan's Performance Products  

So now ivan can flash the pre 2014 models and you dont have to get a power commander, i thought he done away with the block off plates also, if thats the case im sending mine to him.  

I would double check with ivan before we think this. Ivan had the 3rd gen reflash completly finished, and had moved on to the 4th gen. I dont see him going backwards on this and eliminating the power commander. He may have, but lets check with him first.  

Info on is Web site have not change, pc is required for 3rd Gen bike.  

I already have the pcv, but if Ivan were able to, I'd send it back to him, have it updated, and throw the pcv as far as I could. I does'nt hurt anything, but Id be just as happy without it.  

Maybe brokeblinker will chime in and give more details  

That sounds great brokeblinker im calling him tommorrow, did you ever figure out what that tappy noise was after doing the reflash.  

I'm not noticing it as much now...I think it could have been a noise that has always been present, but since I usually wear earplugs, I just don't notice. Still not sure, but everything is still riding great and nothing "feels" off.  

can you tell a big difference in the power down low compared to before, im assuming you would have to have the full exhaust before it would lift the front wheel by throttle alone  

What is TL and Dr not required no longer  

"tl;dr." is an abbreviation for "Too long; didn't read."  

I bought the headers and I fitted the yoshI r77 cans for a 4 to 1 to 2 set up, for ivan's proformance package. I just did this about two months ago for my 2012 nk1 and I didn't need a pc5 but I still need a dynojet fc and block off plates. So what I'm gathering is if you stick with stock exhaust you only need the ecu flashed to get smoother throttle response? I thought that was what the fc was for.  

Alright, let me try and be super comprehensive to clear this up. Old Ivan Package (can be done with, or without full exhaust - full exhaust makes more peak power but similar down low : ECU + Power Commander .(there are more or less expensive power commander options). The ECU has the changes to fan turn on speed, low speed torque limiting removed, ignition timing changed, fuel cutoff eliminated, etc. etc. The power commander has the premade fuel map that he has created for a given exhaust/intake configuration. You also have the option of taking the bike to a dyno tuner to get it fine tuned for your personal setup. New Ivan Package (can be done with, or without full exhaust - full exhaust makes more peak power but similar down low : ECU only . The ECU has the changes to fan turn on speed, low speed torque limiting removed, ignition timing changed, fuel cutoff eliminated, etc. etc. In addition, the ECU now comes preloaded with the fuel map that was previously done on the power commander . Because there is no power commander, you now do not have the option to take this to a dyno tuner. However, it also means you don't have to pay for a power commander. As far as I am aware, Ivan is still offering both setups. The block off plates are a different issue - they block secondary air injection and are optional as far as I am concerned. You can easily plug the hosing and practically remove it without actually removing it. This is less clean of an option, so people often opt to take the system out entirely and use block off plates while they're already in there installing an air filter or something similar. Additionally, Ivan recommends an aftermarket air filter for both of these options.  

Called Ivan last Thursday, I can confirm the sans pc5 for 3rd gen. I sent my ecu to him...finally. and selling my pc5 as well, phew. Ordered the block off plates, also.  

Gotcha brokenblinker. When I talked to Ivan about what I needed he never mentioned this set up and I didn't see it on his website either. I guess you can't get what you don't ask for.The block off plates do make for a cleaner install and if your doing the air box mod you might as well put them in.  

This is great news, i need this ASAP!  

So I guess the resale value of a used PCV for a Ninja 1000 / Z1000 just took a significant nose dive....................  

balls, and I have 2 lol...  

ah the sound of dragons waking.  

Just to add to this thread, I received my ECU yesterday. Havent installed the block off plates. Yeah, even leaning forward, it is wheeling 7-11k in first. Low speed throttle is awesome. Felt like low-mid range lost a little, but I only rode it for a few min.  

I don't have a dyno, so who really knows, but I wonder if some of the reason it feels like the mid range punch is gone a little is because it now responds so much better lower. I really felt like this bike used to come alive at 6-7, now i feel like it comes on at 3-4. I think the removal of torque limiting down low makes the midrange feel less different by comparison.  

A good rip through the mountains will be telling, where Im in mid to high range most of the time. You have a good point, though.  

When I look on his page I see 2010-2012, 2014-2015. The 2013 is available, yes? Sorry, got deeper and found it.  

Damn. So now I need to remove the pc5 and the ignition controller. I'm so far behind.  

I just got my ecu back from Ivan yesterday and so far I'm not really impressed. I have a bone stock 2012 n1k and I was really looking forward to the increase in power. Maybe my expectations were too high? I understand that you need a full exhaust to realize the power potential, but I don't want a super loud exhaust as I live in California. I only have 15 minutes on the bike with the ecu so far, so hopefully I will notice more of a difference with a little more time on the seat. The midrange seems less aggressive and it doesn't lift the front tire in first as easy as it did before. Has anyone else had this same experience with Ivans new flash? Do I need to do the airbox mod? Any ideas?  

not to sound like a d!ck.... but I would imagine that you would call and ask Ivan these questions before hand. The tune/flash I have is for the full meal deal. If you have the map for that... of course it isn't going to work right on a stock bike. My bike wasn't even running right after the ECU went in. I got home from the shop and put in the new map... and it runs awesome. My bike is probably up about 16-18hp. I pull on almost every 1000cc supersport (except the latest gen bikes) to 200kph. The freakin thing is on the back tire for the first 3 gears.  

Did you get just the ECU or ECU + PCV? If its just the ECU, then the tune is actually a tune for the full exhaust setup, so I don't know how big the power gains we got are (I also just did ECU). I noticed the biggest difference below 5K RPM, which is where I spend most of my time. I also didn't notice much more power in the midrange and high end, but it is a bit smoother I think.  

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ECU flash done, need to disconnect O2 sensor

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I have a 2016 Voyager 1700. I am putting the ECU back in today and I need to disconnect the O2 sensor. I don't have a shop manual. What is the best way to go about this? Thanks!  

Just folle the cable from the sensor on the right exhaust. IIRC there is a plug ~ 15-20cm from the sensor, which can be disconnected easy. Just unplug it - done ! Cu, Sven  

Got it! Thanks!  

Is there a trick to unplugging it? I'm pulling pretty hard on mine and it won't let go Cheers  

It has a small clip to prevent accidental unplug  

Be aware that unplugging the O2 sensor may give an Error signal, due to the break in the heater circuit  

i had to put a 02 eliminator on mine to stop the ecu going bonkers ,dont know if you will with the flash but they are cheap on flee bay  

Without an O2 sensor in the system the autotune cannot function correctly Kawasaki (as with all other manufacturers) went to a lot of time & cost to develop an ecu that would fulfill all requirements, including emissions regulations - modern ecus are pretty sophisticated & can rapidly adjust to the majority of mods that we choose to fit - exhausts etc All ecu's are set to a 14.7 Air/Fuel ratio to meet Emission regs - 13.8 generally gives the best overall performance The simplest & least expensive power improver is *from my own personal experience) is the Magnum Dyna Boost - wjhich "spoofs" the air inlet temperature, effectively richening the fuel inject over the whole range closed to WOT & injects a millivolt signal into the O2 sensor that "spoofs" the ecu seeing 14.7, when infact it's closer to the 13.8 There's a single adjustment screw zero to 33 turns, so lots of adjustment - it can be dyno'd however, l found half a turn before every ride until I was more than happy with the performance If not happy, just wind the screw back a turn or so until you are Mine runs at 6 turns from zero Fantastic 450klm ride today - 24-25klm/litre - mixed highway 120kph (more or less) country back roads etc I also use Pulstar spark plugs  

What does the sensor look like. Cant locate it.  

That's because '10's don't have one.  

I reflashed my 2016 Voyager last year. I had to call Ivan to find out how/where to disconnect O2. You take off the two side panels on the front brake lever side of the bike under the driver seat. The plastic plug is there to disconnect the O2. I had to wrestle with it a bit but it came apart. I taped the exposed ends adn zip tied them so they would not move around. That worked fine. I did nothing else and after 7000 miles since the reflash, it just works great with no issues.  

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