Captain Cook to set sail for Rottnest Island

Katie McDonald

Captain Cook Cruises has today announced it will extend its ferry services to Rottnest later this year, joining Rottnest Express and Rottnest Fast Ferries, which could create downward pressure on prices of trips to the island and boost jobs.

Captain Cook to set sail for Rottnest Island

Captain Cook Cruises has today announced it will extend its ferry services to Rottnest later this year, joining Rottnest Express and Rottnest Fast Ferries , which could create downward pressure on prices of trips to the island and boost jobs.

As of November, Captain Cook Cruises will run a ferry service to Rottnest Island’s main jetty from Fremantle via the Quokka1 , a 400-passenger high-speed water jet, expanding its portfolio of operations out of Barrack Street Jetty on the Swan River to several destinations.

It is the first time in almost 30 years that Rottnest Island will receive an additional ferry service operator in a market consisting of just two businesses – Rottnest Express , the original Rottnest ferry provider founded in the 1950s that runs out of Fremantle, and Rottnest Fast Ferries , which was established in the 1990s and departs from Hillarys Boat Harbour. 

SeaLink Travel Group, an ASX-listed tourist and travel services company, took over the Western Australia-based Captain Cook Cruises business in May last year (having owned the Sydney Captain Cook company since 2011).

Chief executive Jeff Ellison said expanding its operations to Rottnest was a logical step.  

“Rottnest is one of the jewels in the crown of Western Australia tourism and we believe it’s a natural addition to our business,” Mr Ellison told Business News .

“From the day we acquired Captain Cook it was our target to add Rottnest to our services.

“It’s a perfect fit with our river cruises up the Swan River and down to Fremantle, to be able to connect to Rottnest Island seamlessly will be a real advantage to visitors both interstate and international coming to WA.”

According to the state government, a total of 645,000 people visited Rottnest Island in 2016-17, a 6 per cent increase in visitation from the previous year.

SeaLink general manager WA Andrew Lane said the organisation recognised the potential to grow visitor numbers to Rottnest Island through increased accessibility.

“The tourism industry desperately needs these types of initiatives to increase tourism to the state; it’s such an important part of this economy, especially with the downturn in the mining sector,” Mr Lane told Business News .  

“Capacity has been an issue for the island - with more competition comes greater capacity, and with greater capacity and competition comes a downward pressure on pricing, which is also an issue.

“Rottnest is an iconic tourism destination; the ‘selfie with a quokka’ is going mad at the moment and we can add to that.”

Mr Ellison said SeaLink invested more than $6 million per annum into promoting the island destinations it travelled to and had built up connections with travel agents across Australia and the world.

“That’s where we believe we can actually grow this market,” he said.

“The more people that use our service means the average cost comes down and we can put more specials into the market … it’s dynamic pricing like the airlines do.”

Mr Ellison said SeaLink had a further five vessels it could potentially add to the Rottnest route in the future, if there was adequate demand. 

Scheduling and pricing for Captain Cook’s Rottnest service will be released closer to the start of operations.

Speaking at the announcement this morning, Premier Mark McGowan said Captain Cook’s expansion of services would create 20 new jobs to operate the ferry. In addition, he said, there would be a multiplier effect with the creation of jobs on the island as a result of increased visitation.

Tourism Minister Paul Papalia added that it was necessary to increase accessibility and services to Rottnest if WA wanted to keep increasing visitation numbers to the island.

“The more people that visit Rottnest Island, the more dollars spent in local businesses both on the island and the surrounding ports,” Mr Papalia said.

“We need to ensure Rottnest Island remains competitive, relevant and continues to be a must-visit tourism destination.”

At the close of market SeaLink shares were down 0.7 per cent at $4.24 per share. 

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Rottnest Island Roundtrip Ferry from Perth with Transfer

captain cook cruises rottnest island

  • Hotel pickup and drop-off (selected hotels only)
  • Roundtrip Ferry from Fremantle
  • All taxes, fees and handling charges
  • Food and drinks, unless specified
  • YOUR CONFIRMATION (EMAILED SHORTLY AFTER BOOKING) WILL CONTAIN SPECIFIC LOCATION AND TIME OF PICK UP FOR YOUR HOTEL Please be waiting outside on the road 10 minutes prior to scheduled pick up time.
  • Barrack Street Jetty, Perth WA 6000, Australia
  • Not wheelchair accessible
  • Confirmation will be received at time of booking
  • The duration of transfers are approximate, the exact duration will depend on the time of day and traffic conditions
  • Children must be accompanied by an adult
  • This tour/activity will have a maximum of 30 travellers
  • For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

  • irener285 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Fab day out! Wine tasting was very enjoyable as was the chocolate factory. Lunch at Mandoon was excellent. The return cruise was fab with complimentary wines and coffee/tea and cakes. Crew member sang for part of return journey which was excellent. Highly recommend this excursion. Read more Written 16 April 2024
  • 124margiew 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Wonderful time together! Special family day Review of Fremantle Lunch Cruise Pending review We had a wonderful day as a catch-up with sibling family, some who had travelled from interstate for celebration of a milestone birthday. The crew were fantastic, friendly & helpful. The weather was superb, so the river was stunning! The buffet lunch covered a range of tastes. It was great having cold & hot options as well as a variety of salads. The variety was such that a separate vegetarian meal was not necessary. Captains commentary was interesting, views along the river awesome. Love that the crew acknowledged birthdays & sang happy birthday as well as taking photos for us and other groups.. Absolutely recommend this cruise. Read more Written 15 April 2024
  • charlessimmons86 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles Swan river cruise Great boat and very clean Good commentary. Staff very helpful. One suggestion is face masks should be offered as there were a number of people with very heavy colds coughing over people and I hope that others , mainly 50 + , don't catch whatever they had. Read more Written 5 April 2024
  • bethmarchbank 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Wonderful way to celebrate We had a fabulous night for my daughter's 30th birthday. food, drinks, service and dance music were all wonderful. Thank you so much. Read more Written 24 March 2024
  • 183mandyp 0 contributions 3.0 of 5 bubbles Good and not so good Our original trip( gourmet wine cruise) was sadly cancelled by the cruise company and we were offered a refund or an alternative cruise. We opted for the alternative cruise which was running on the same day as our cancelled trip. Good points.. Crew were entertaining and very helpful. Wine tasting on board was nice with cheese and biscuits Wine tasting at winery well organised and good Chocolate stop was ok Trip back on river was very pleasant with free flow wine Not so good points… Drinking water on boat was vile -sorry to be brutal but chemical city and undrinkable with no option to buy bottled water.. Lunch was pre ordered and very basic menu ( burgers salad pizza). Sadly several lunches were served 25 mins after everyone else.. Mini bus was mini! If you’ve got a bit of a girth ( I have!) it was quite tight to pass up and down the aisle. Bus driver was very good though and she drove us very nicely. All in all the day was ok but quite expensive for a river trip with burger and chips or pizza. I think the gourmet meal at sandlefords winery would have been much better but we didn’t get that opportunity. Read more Written 24 March 2024
  • chrisdT8723FA 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Relaxing Cruise! Very relaxing cruise up the Swan sipping wine & nibbling at the charcuterie board. Louis & the crew offered a very friendly efficient service. Weather perfect & different aspect of Perth you wouldn’t normally experience. Highly recommended! Read more Written 23 March 2024
  • hawks_me 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles New experience Was a new experience for us. Took a couple of hours to do. Views were exquisite. Commentary good. Had an open bar. Sat upstairs. On same cruise has lunch but has to be pre-booked. Recommend Read more Written 20 March 2024
  • Quest46339964287 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles Perth to freemantle return by river A pleasant welcome on board. We elected for the return trip without food. The commentary was clearly audible and informative. The ship was clean but he seats were hard. Could be improved with cushioning. Although we did not partake of the buffet it appeared plentiful and varied. I woukd recommend the cruise for a leisurely few hours. Read more Written 19 March 2024
  • Sonja731 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Fabulous cruise This was a fantastic way to return to Perth after our winery tour. The choice of cakes and fruit was fantastic and so delicious. The cruise also included unlimited wine, coffee and tea. The staff were fantastic and great entertainers. The cruise was so relaxing. A perfect end to a great day. Read more Written 19 March 2024
  • RacingAl 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Great Day Out Trip was brilliantly organised with excellent wine tastings followed by delicious lunch and a thoroughly enjoyable river cruise with lovely afternoon tea and free flow wine accompanied by highly enjoyable singing entertainment from the fabulous crew! Read more Written 19 March 2024
  • sueoQ9956AD 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Amazing cruise Absolutely beautiful views, I loved cruiseing down swan river. Would definitely it all again, Crew were very friendly. Read more Written 18 March 2024
  • D6985AYannad 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles An Experience not to be missed. We had a wonderful experience. Cruise on the Swan River was a wonderful way to start the day , lunch was excellent, our stops at two wineries, a brewery and the Chocolate shop were great then coach home to Perth. Organisation was great from Captain Cook Cruises, all the staff at each stop plus Keith our Coach Captain was extremely efficient and we had perfect weather. Read more Written 18 March 2024
  • anitasK309VF 0 contributions 2.0 of 5 bubbles Rip off Went Saturday night in group tour, very pricey, I had one drink, I felt a bit sick so I asked for a small roll, I already had eaten 1 , no I was told, food ok, far too short , we came back to port at 9.20 , friend asked for another drink but was told no, the bar had closed at 9.20 , total rip off , I had been to several before and the night went a lot longer, just interested in ripping people off, come on 7 to 9.20 for $170 , it’s all about money, and heaven forbid one roll Read more Written 16 March 2024
  • peterpurr 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Amazing trip Amazing trip, great food, lovely staff. Good value for money. We had a group of twenty-one. Everyone thought it great and there were no complaints. Read more Written 16 March 2024
  • A9043HXclairem 0 contributions 4.0 of 5 bubbles Lovely relaxing trip If you want to have a relaxing couple of hours seeing Perth from a different perspective, I'd definitely recommend this tour. Ideally, we wanted to join a dinner cruise, but it was fully booked up, so gave this one a try. It was lovely and relaxing. The Captain told you about the sites as you sailed on the River. You have the option to purchase lunch when you book the ticket, we didn't on this occasion. There are 2 bars on board so you can grab a drink or two. Overall, great experience. Read more Written 16 March 2024

More to explore in Perth

captain cook cruises rottnest island

Rottnest Island Roundtrip Ferry from Perth with Transfer provided by Captain Cook Cruises

Captain Cook Cruises becomes third ferry operator on Rottnest Island route

The SeaLink ferry that will be used on the Rottnest Island route.

The WA Government hopes the launch of a new ferry service to Rottnest will put downward pressure on the price of travelling to the island.

Premier Mark McGowan and Tourism Minister Paul Papalia were today at the launch of the new service by Captain Cook Cruises — bringing to three the total number of ferry operators to Rottnest.

About 645,000 people visited Rottnest last financial year, and the Government hopes the new service will help boost numbers.

Mr McGowan said he understood some people believed the cost of catching a ferry to Rottnest was excessive.

"If you are not on a good income getting to Rottnest is expensive," he said.

"The more operators you have, the more competitive the market and certainly when it comes to these sorts of operations it provides the opportunity for additional downward pressure on prices, and hopefully it attracts more tourists as a consequence."

Rottnest Island

An adult return fare offered by other operators from Fremantle to Rottnest costs about $60 plus a $24 admission fee to the island, taking the total round trip to more than $80. Captain Cook is yet to release its ferry scheduling and pricing.

Captain Cook Cruises, which was purchased by SeaLink Travel Group in May last year, will commence the new daily service between Fremantle and Rottnest in November.

Captain Cook has been a long-term ferry operator in WA, offering cruises out of Barrack Street Jetty on the Swan River to a number of destinations including Fremantle and the Swan Valley. It will continue these services.

SeaLink general manager Andrew Lane said the company would be using a 400-passenger high-speed water jet catamaran ferry for its Rottnest service.

He said as it had done in the other destinations it serviced, such as the Tiwi Islands, Kangaroo Island and Magnetic Island, SeaLink planned to invest in infrastructure and other offerings on Rottnest.

"A range of opportunities, tours, attractions, events, all those types of things that we invest in, which we do on other services that we run," he said.

"We are certainly a broader scope business, we look at investing heavily in the destinations to which we run."

Mr Lane argued it was sustainable to have three ferry operators to Rottnest, but the Mr Papalia conceded the two existing operators may not welcome the increased competition.

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This luxe Rottnest Island cruise is essential for seafood connoisseurs

Lucy Cousins

Travel Journalist

29 August 2023

Time

| THIS ARTICLE WAS CREATED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SeaLink and Sea West |

This article was created in partnership with sealink and sea west, freshly caught lobster, chilled margaret river wines and sparkling views of rottnest island; this luxury experience should be on everyone’s bucket list..

With 63 pristine beaches and more than 20 beautiful shallow bays, it’s easy to see why Wadjemup / Rottnest Island is one of Perth’s most loved day trips. For discerning travellers, there is a little-known seafood safari to treat their tastebuds while enjoying the pristine water around Rottnest Island.

Luxe Island Seafood Cruise from Sea West and SeaLink

Hop onboard the Luxe Island Seafood Cruise from Sea West and SeaLink.

The Luxe Island Seafood Cruise from Sea West and SeaLink is part aquatic safari and part WA seafood extravaganza, with the highlight being a dish served direct from the ocean to your plate.

So if you are exploring Rottnest Island (or the rest of Western Australia), multiple award-winning SeaLink is a great place to start, and end. The company offers ferry services from both Perth and Fremantle, and partners with a comprehensive array of providers to bring travellers incredible experiences that focus on the customer as much as the adventure.

private chef on Luxe Island Seafood Cruise

Watch lunch being prepared by your own private chef.

A luxe seafood experience from Rottnest

One of the main attractions of Rottnest Island is the surrounding marine life, with the clear turquoise waters home to over 400 types of fish, as well as long-nosed fur seals and dolphins.

From October to April, explore Rotto’s biodiverse marine eco-system onboard the Crusader III, a 69ft luxury boat operated by Sea West . To make sure your half-day tour goes off without a hitch, enjoy seamless ferry transfers to your cruise departure point in Thomson Bay from Perth and Fremantle with SeaLink.

Cruising along Rottnest’s beautiful coastline, the Luxe Island Seafood Cruise showcases the famous, stunning Rottnest coastline while being indulged with luxury service and a seven-course seafood feast prepared by your own private chef.

Luxe Island Seafood Cruise from Sea West and SeaLink

Enjoy a seven-course seafood menu.

On your way out to sea, join in the excitement and let the crew help you catch lunch. Yes, daring guests can pull in fresh lobsters from Rottnest waters (or sit back and observe as the professionals do it), then watch as it’s prepared right on deck.

This catch will become the main event of your seven-course menu, designed by acclaimed chef Tony Howell. This is luxury dining at its very Western Australian best, and the truest meaning of ocean to plate.

catching lobsters Luxe Island Seafood Cruise

Help the crew pull in fresh Rock Lobsters for lunch.

And never fear: friends and family with dietary requirements can still enjoy the cruise with you, as the menu can be catered to gluten-free, dairy-free and non-seafood diets with advanced notice.

You’ll also find a range of premium still and sparkling Margaret River wines and locally crafted beers onboard to compliment your seafood experience, served inclusively throughout your cruise.

When the smell of freshly cooked seafood reaches you, head on over to the tables neatly dressed in white tablecloths on the deck. As the large platters overflowing with fresh seafood and local produce are served, reach for your glass of crisp wine and fully soak up this experience.

rock lobster Sea West cruise

Delight in the spoils of your catch.

The activities

While the chef is busy preparing your feast, the Crusader III is anchored in a secluded Rottnest Island bay. Swim or snorkel in Rottnest’s famous waters and get acquainted with the bountiful marine life.

Or you may prefer to stay onboard, where you can grab a spot on the large open lower deck, the sleek upper viewing deck, or the luxury front sun lounge to soak up the sparkling island views.

snorkel rottnest island

Snorkel the stunning waters of Rottnest Island. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

SeaLink connects you to Western Australia

It’s all about the customer experience for SeaLink WA, which was awarded gold nationally in the Qantas Australian Tourism Awards in 2022, as well as the Sir David Brand award for tourism – the most prestigious award for tourism in Western Australia.

SeaLink’s passion for surprising and delighting guests with seamless, luxurious experiences from start to finish is at the heart of this industry recognition. As a result, guests can be assured that any partner, like Sea West, delivers outstanding journeys.

Not to mention SeaLink also operate Captain Cook Cruises and Swan Valley Tours, so they’re equipped to connect you to the best of Western Australia .

Take a scenic cruise between Perth and Fremantle, hop on and off a vessel to explore the historic port of Fremantle, or indulge your tastebuds with a memorable tour of Swan Valley wineries and chocolatiers. Whatever WA adventure you desire, SeaLink and Sea West will help you enjoy it.

SeaLink Ferry, Rottnest Island

Explore Western Australia with award-winning SeaLink.

Discover more and book at sealink.com.au and sea-west.com.au .

Lucy is an experienced travel and lifestyle writer who loves exploring Australia and further afield any chance she gets. Whether it's on the water, in the air, by car or on foot, she’s always planning her next new adventure with her family and rescue dog, Stella.

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Your Luxe Seafood Lunch

A delicious, dreamy day on rottnest island.

Just imagine. You are on one of the world’s most beautiful islands.

You are on a pleasure boat, cruising turquoise blue waters. Sipping a cocktail. Bubbles and fine wines. Chilled beers. Your own private chef and crew.

The most delicious seafood. Lobster, caught fresh from the ocean. A divine long seafood lunch cruise with friends.

Floating, or taking a dip in a pristine bay. The simple serenity of relaxing on a sun deck, surrounded by the most magical views.

It sounds luxe – because it is. Welcome on board our new Luxe Island Seafood Cruise.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

Incredible day of free flowing drinks, great food and wonderful staff. Worth every cent paid. Would recommend to everyone! Everything about the experience was perfect. CHRISTIE O’BRIEN, GOOGLE REVIEW

A  Unique Taste  of  WA

Western Australia on a plate. Cruise with us to be served a very special taste of our State’s best. All in a way that is totally relaxed. Just like a private dinner party.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

premium beverages

Perfectly paired with a deluxe 7-course menu, are premium still and sparkling Howard Park wines, with a quality selection of local craft beer and boutique favourites.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

private chef & crew

As our guest, you are hosted by a friendly team of experienced crew, with a talented chef creating mouthwatering dishes on deck for you to devour.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

breathtaking views

Floating on water is the ultimate vantage point to soak up Rottnest’s beauty. Cruise the Island’s stunning coastline, then anchor in a secluded bay for lunch and a dip.

Getting to pull your own lobster from the ocean, then having it cooked in garlic butter by a chef, is a must-try experience! It’s easily one of the best things I have ever, ever done. AMANDA CARLIN, FOOD BLOGGER, SIMPLY PERTHFECT • CLICK TO READ REVIEW •

Cruise Menu

View 7-course gourmet menu & beverages, where we cruise.

Our 4-hour Luxe Island Seafood Cruise begins on Rottnest’s waterfront, among luxury boats moored in Thomson Bay. We welcome you with a cocktail on arrival, before setting off into crystal clear waters for an unforgettable afternoon.

As you sip on chilled drinks and enjoy the first of your lunch courses, we cruise past the famous Bathhurst Lighthouse on our way offshore, in search of Western Rock Lobster.

Lobster pots are hauled in (and you may like to pose for a lobster selfie!), then we travel further along the Island’s coastline to find the most beautiful bay on the day (Longreach or Parakeet Bay), where we anchor close to shore.

Nestled in paradise, you can relax on deck or swim and unwind on a float mat. Then, it’s seated white tablecloth dining for main courses and dessert. Following your feast, we pull-up anchor and journey back to Thomson Bay.

Rottnest Cruises Map

your cruise package

Everything is included in your Luxe Island Seafood Cruise. View the package inclusions and pricing below.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

Half-day experience

All-inclusive luxe cruise.

4 hours (approx)

Cruise from Rottnest. Excludes ferry transfers to/from the Island. Optional ferry packages available when booking.

inclusions & full details below

Tour inclusions, cruise details.

SEASON RUNS NOVEMBER 2023 TO LATE MARCH 2024

  • Tours operate 5-7 days per week (Wednesday to Sunday) during off-peak season and up to 7 days per week during peak season.
  • Seniors $299 | Adults $319

Please check online for our cruise schedule, availability and full pricing information.

Prices do not include transfers to/from Rottnest Island. Optional ferry packages are available when booking.

We welcome group and corporate bookings, so if you have a group and wish to book dates outside our standard availability, please contact us directly.

Please note, this cruise is not suitable for children.

Boarding: 11.15am

Cruise: 11.30am to 3.30pm (approximately 4 hours, depending on the location of cray pots).

Cruises depart from Thomson Bay Fuel Jetty, located only a short 5-minute walk from the main Ferry Jetty. For directions, click here .

Please arrive 15 minutes prior to departure, as we leave promptly at 11.30am. Please ensure you arrive on the Island in time to board our cruise no later than 11.15am. See below (Getting to Rottnest) for links and further information about transfers.

To book transfers to/from Rottnest Island, please visit the website of ferry operators using the links below ~ or select an optional Full Day Package through us when booking.

Please note the latest departures times listed, so you can arrive on the Island in time to board our cruise at 11.15am.

FROM PERTH Please book to depart no later than 8.30am Rottnest Express Sealink

FROM FREMANTLE Please book to depart no later than 10am Rottnest Express Sealink

FROM HILLARYS Please book to depart no later than 10am Rottnest Fast Ferries

Camera, hat, sunscreen and sunglasses. We suggest wearing comfortable clothing with a warm top, as it can get cool on the water.

If wanting to swim off the boat, please wear bathers and bring a towel – a swimming waiver will need to be signed on the day.

We travel on the open ocean, so if you suffer from motion sickness, please take medication prior to arriving.

With advance notice, we can cater for gluten-free, dairy-free and non-seafood diets. Please advise us of special dietary requirements in the notes section of your booking, to ensure you receive our Alternative Menu. At least 72 hours’ notice is required for any special requirements. Notification of food intolerances on the day is unlikely to be able to be accommodated, as logistics are planned well in advance.

Please be aware, as we are a boat with limited cooking facilities, we cannot vary the menu a great deal. If you do have particular dietary requirements, please call us on  +61 8 9586 1136  so we can consult with our chef.

We cannot take bookings from guests with anaphylactic allergies, as given our small cooking environment on board, we cannot guarantee an allergen-free environment.

If you have any special mobility requirements, please contact our booking office on  +61 8 9586 1136  to discuss if this tour is suitable before booking.

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Watch CBS News

Captain James Cook and the controversial legacy of Western exploration

By Ben Tracy

April 7, 2024 / 9:52 AM EDT / CBS News

On the Big Island of Hawaii, where the waves roll into Kealakekua Bay, a white obelisk 27 feet tall looms over the shoreline. It's a tribute to the great circumnavigator Captain James Cook. It stands just feet from where he died.

Akoni Palacat-Nelsen is a native Hawaiian (or kanaka, as they call themselves) who works for the Office of Hawaiian Affairs advocating for the native population. He says there is a lot of frustration that many people think history began here with Captain Cook.

"He brought a lot of diseases, he brought a lot of problems to our society, he introduced westernization," said Palacat-Nelsen.

Captain Cook is a controversial figure – villain or hero, colonizer or trailblazer, depending on who is telling the story. But what is not in dispute is that in the 1700s the British explorer literally put much of what we now know as the Pacific Ocean on the map, creating detailed diagrams of the places he was the first European to discover, including New Zealand, Australia, the Cook Islands (which still bear his name), and the islands of Hawaii.

"Whatever you think about Cook, he's certainly in the pantheon of the greatest explorers of all time," said writer Hampton Sides. "He gave us the contours of the Pacific Ocean."

Sides is author of the new book, "The Wide Wide Sea," documenting Cook's final and fateful voyage. "He had three voyages around the world; each one was monumental," said Sides.

wide-wide-sea-doubleday.jpg

Cook's third voyage left England in July of 1776, just as the American Revolution was taking off. His mission was to go around the Cape of Good Hope and then proceed to the west coast of North America, all the way up to Alaska, in pursuit of the elusive, fabled Northwest Passage. On his way, he stumbled upon islands in the Pacific. "He couldn't believe that he had found these islands," Sides said. "These aren't just lowly atolls somewhere out in the Pacific. These are massive volcanic islands with thousands and thousands of people living here, a whole thriving, flourishing civilization. He couldn't believe it. He was astounded."

Cook and his men came ashore on the Big Island of Hawaii, warmly welcomed by the islanders at a temple during a religious festival.

Sides writes in his book that, unlike many of his contemporary explorers, Cook took a genuine interest in the people he encountered. He treated them with respect, tried to prevent his men from spreading venereal disease, and made little attempt to convert them to Christianity.

And yet, "On this third and final voyage, something was wrong with Cook," Sides said. "He was mercurial. He was violent. He was cruel to the native people that he encountered as well. He just was losing it all the time near the end."

That end came when Cook and his men overstayed their welcome, attempting to hold the king of Hawaii ransom to get back a rowboat taken by the local people. Sides said, "It turned into a brawl and a melee, and things did not go well for Captain Cook."

Cook was killed on the shore of Kealakekua Bay on Valentine's Day 1779.

Illustration of the Death of Captain James Cook

And yet, nearly 250 years later Cook's story is still being told, revisited and revised as the age of imperialism has not aged so well. Statues of Cook have recently been toppled in Canada and Australia, his monument in Hawaii defaced. Cook was the leading edge of what Pacific Islanders call the "fatal impact," and the death and loss of their culture that followed.

Sides said, "I get the fact that he's become a symbol of imperialism, because he was the first. It's easy just to assign the blame to one person rather than all the people that came after him." 

Yet, on the Big Island you still find Cook's name on a post office, roadside stands, and an apartment complex. There is no simple break from this piece of the past.

The Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park is one of the last places on the Big Island that still looks like what Captain Cook and his crew would have seen centuries ago. It was known as a place of refuge, where if you broke a rule or a law you could get a second chance. 

It's also a place where Hawaiians get to preserve and share their history, said Keola Awong, the chief of interpretation and education. "It's a second chance for us to get to tell our story, and tell it from our perspective," she said. 

She wants people to see Hawaii as more than a tourist attraction – more than white sands and scarlet sunsets, a place that existed long before it was "discovered" by a Captain named Cook.

Awong said she feels most tourists who come to Hawaii don't know much about the true history. "I think they see the history told by the western point of view," she said. "Our culture is very much alive. Our culture carries on and continues."

      READ AN EXCERPT:  "The Wide Wide Sea" by Hampton Sides

      For more info:

  • "The Wide Wide Sea: Imperial Ambition, First Contact and the Fateful Final Voyage of Captain James Cook"  by Hampton Sides (Doubleday), in Hardcover, Large Print Trade Paperback, eBook and Audio formats, available April 9 via  Amazon ,  Barnes & Noble  and  Bookshop.org
  • hamptonsides.com
  • Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, Hawaii

      Story produced by John Goodwin. Editor: Ben McCormick. 

Ben Tracy

Ben Tracy is CBS News' senior national and environmental correspondent based in Los Angeles. He reports for all CBS News platforms, including the "CBS Evening News with Norah O'Donnell," "CBS Mornings" and "CBS Sunday Morning."

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

captain cook cruises rottnest island

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

captain cook cruises rottnest island

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

captain cook cruises rottnest island

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

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captain cook cruises rottnest island

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