brakes on dodge journey

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Find a manual, 2009 dodge journey brake problems: an in-depth guide, you are here.

Brakes are a critical safety feature in any vehicle; when they fail, it's a serious concern. The 2009 Dodge Journey owners have reported issues that can affect their driving experience and safety. This article will look closely at the 2009 Dodge Journey brake problems , exploring symptoms to watch for and contributing factors to these issues. By understanding these problems, owners can take proactive steps to maintain their vehicle's safety and performance.

Identification and Symptoms

Brake problems can show up in different ways. In the 2009 Dodge Journey, drivers may notice a few key symptoms. One might hear a squealing or grinding noise when applying the brakes, indicating worn brake pads or damaged rotors. Another sign of trouble is a brake pedal that feels soft or spongy when pressed; this could be due to air in the brake lines or a problem with the master cylinder. If the Journey pulls to one side during braking, it could be a sign that the brake calipers are not functioning evenly. Lastly, if the ABS warning light on the dashboard turns on, it's a clear signal that the vehicle needs immediate attention from a mechanic.

Factors Contributing to Brake Problems

Several factors can contribute to brake problems in the 2009 Dodge Journey . Over time, normal wear and tear can cause the brake pads and rotors to wear down, needing replacement. Exposure to harsh conditions like salt on the roads during winter can lead to corrosion and rust, damaging brake components. Additionally, the hydraulic system that operates the brakes may develop leaks, leading to a loss of brake fluid. This can compromise the brake system's ability to create the necessary pressure to bring the vehicle to a stop. Lastly, a malfunction in the anti-lock braking system (ABS) can also lead to issues with braking efficiency and safety. Regular inspections and maintenance by a professional can help identify these issues early and keep the braking system in good working order.

Tips for Addressing Minor Brake Issues

If you're driving a 2009 Dodge Journey and noticing small brake changes, don't worry just yet. Sometimes, minor brake issues can be resolved with simple fixes. For example, a squeaky brake can often be silenced with lubricant applied to the right part, or it might just mean your brake pads need changing. Check the brake fluid level to see if your pedal feels soft. Topping it off might solve the problem.

Importance of Seeking Expert Help

While you can manage some brake problems in your 2009 Dodge Journey on your own, often, you'll need to seek expert help. Brake systems are complex, and fixing them goes beyond simple maintenance. Mechanics have the right tools to diagnose problems accurately. They can ensure that repairs are done correctly, saving you time and money in the long run. More importantly, professionals can ensure that your car is safe to drive. They understand the significance of each part of the brake system and can offer advice on keeping it in top condition.

Risks Associated with Faulty Brakes

Faulty brakes are not just a repair issue but a serious safety risk. If your brakes aren't working properly, it could take longer to stop your car, or you might not be able to stop at all. This puts you and others on the road in danger. In your 2009 Dodge Journey, if you notice any brake problems, you must take them seriously. Faulty brakes can lead to accidents, which can cause injury and even be fatal. That's why it's so important to address any brake issues as soon as they arise and ensure that your vehicle's brake system always functions correctly.

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The Dodge Journey debuted on the market in 2009 as a mid-size 5-door SUV. Built on the Chrysler JC platform, it shares many parts with the Dodge Avenger. The Journey is available with front-wheel and all-wheel drive and can fit up to 5 or 7 passengers. It is outfitted with a 2.4L 175-hp four-cylinder engine mated to a 4-speed automatic gearbox, or with a 3.5L V6 with a 6-speed automatic transmission. With its luxury and convenience, it is mainly produced for families. The Dodge Journey provides a smooth ride and is notable for its great value, comfort and utility.

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Brake pads use metal backing plates with friction-improving material on its face, and press against your brake rotors to slow and stop your vehicle. Your brake pads and rotors are compressed by the brake caliper when it receives hydraulic pressure sent from the master cylinder. With heat from normal use and friction, failure of other brake system components, environmental conditions, and general wear and tear, brake pads will wear down over time. It's important to pay attention to the brake pad's wear patterns and any noises that could indicate failure to keep your brakes performing as they should. If the brake pads are squealing or grinding, they may have worn down to the backing plate, which can also cause damage to the rotor. Brake pads that wear unevenly may indicate a problem with your brake caliper or guide pins. When your brake pads need to be replaced, you may notice your car shaking or pulsing when you brake. This may also be caused by a warped rotor, so it's best to resurface the brake rotor or replace both brake pads and rotors when you complete a brake job. When you're ready to fix your brakes, check out the selection of brake pad options O'Reilly Auto Parts. We carry brake pads, brake rotors, brake calipers, and more for a complete repair. If you'd like more information on when to replace brake pads , how to install brake pads and rotors , or other brake resources, visit our How-To Hub for the information and guides you need to help you get the job done right.

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• Brake, Chassis & Suspension

Soft brake pedal, bad ABS unit?

By Nelson April 6, 2019 in Brake, Chassis & Suspension

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I’m working on a friends 2010 Dodge Journey 3.5 v6 2wd that has a soft brake pedal when running but firms up when Engine is off. While driving, The pedal will go nearly to the floor before the brakes grab but still stops good. There are no visible leaks anywhere, lines and calipers are all dry. Car has new pads front and rear, new front brake caliper hoses, new master cylinder and new booster. All four corners were bled with a pressure bleeder, went for a drive and made a few panic stops on gravel to engage the abs, then bled the brakes again.  All of this and still no change in the pedal feel. 

What I’ve done is looped the lines at the master cylinder with a spare piece of brake line, started the car and had a good firm pedal. So the new master cylinder is good and holding pressure. Then I removed the loop, hooked the lines back up and clamped the rubber hoses at all four wheels and had a soft pedal again. This leads me to believe that the abs hydraulic unit is bad as it’s the only thing between the master cylinder and hoses. Can anyone confirm my diagnosis or offer any more advice? Anyone changed the abs unit before and have any tips? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

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first off congrats on giving background info on the car and problem,a lot of poster dont give us any vech info, not sure on the abs question  but have heard that there can be a restriction on the caliper rubber hose where the clamp that holds the hose builds up rust under the clamp and restricts the flow or pressure delivered to the caliper, might want to examine all for hoses to see if that might be an issue since its a 2010 and in the north where there is salt used a lot..good luck on the problem

• mechanical-idiot

Thanks for your input. The front brake hoses are new. Rear hoses visually look good and the brakes do not drag (car rolls free in neutral and while idling in gear with foot off the  brake pedal ) so I don’t suspect a hose issue. This car is actually from California and rust free. I inspected the brake lines from front to back and they look brand new, no leaks or corrosion. 

I drove the car on a long gravel/dirt road today and the abs works great when panic stopping. Actually the pedal is nice and firm when the abs pump kicks on but then goes soft again when it shuts off and returns to normal braking. I’m stumped and open to all suggestions anyone has. 

Bump. Might be getting an ABS unit from a salvage yard to try. I’m out of ideas otherwise. 

My buddy got an abs unit from a yard and I installed it a few hours ago. Now all the brake warning lights and check engine light are on, brakes are worse than before and the speedometer does not work. Went and looked at the receipt and they sold us one from a 2013 Journey which according to Rock Autos parts interchange is not the same part number. They list 2010-12 as interchangeable. Visually the parts are the same and everything hooked up fine. 

I’m going to look for an abs unit off a 2010-12 model and try that I suppose. Does the module need programmed? I don’t think so but it’s possible. Any and all input y’all on the forum can give me would be awesome! Thanks.

I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module.  The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again.  If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.

• OhareFred , mechanical-idiot and jkeaton
• 2 weeks later...

Any progress? I have the same issue 

12 hours ago, blissman20 said: Any progress? I have the same issue 

Nope, sorry. I reinstalled the original abs unit, ran the pump, bled all four wheels multiple times all with no improvement from how it was when the car was brought to me.

There’s no warning lights on the dash except the tire pressure indicator light and I’ve checked the tire pressures, they are fine. Speedometer is working again with the original abs unit installed. I don’t think the abs is to blame since it works fine and the pedal firms up when the pump runs. 

I couldn’t waste any more time on it so they are taking it to a shop. If the shop fixes it I’ll post what they found. 

• blissman20 , 2late4u and Summer Solstice

46 minutes ago, Nelson said: Nope, sorry. I reinstalled the original abs unit, ran the pump, bled all four wheels multiple times all with no improvement from how it was when the car was brought to me.   There’s no warning lights on the dash except the tire pressure indicator light and I’ve checked the tire pressures, they are fine. Speedometer is working again with the original abs unit installed. I don’t think the abs is to blame since it works fine and the pedal firms up when the pump runs.    I couldn’t waste any more time on it so they are taking it to a shop. If the shop fixes it I’ll post what they found. 

 Thanks! Yeah keep me updated.  I bought my journey in need of attention and just started to give it the attention it deserves and same issue. I know it’s not leaking nor is it the master because when I pump the brakes it doesn’t get better.  I think it’s something simple like a sensor that needs to tell the pump to turn on.  

On 4/21/2019 at 11:08 AM, blissman20 said:  Thanks! Yeah keep me updated.  I bought my journey in need of attention and just started to give it the attention it deserves and same issue. I know it’s not leaking nor is it the master because when I pump the brakes it doesn’t get better.  I think it’s something simple like a sensor that needs to tell the pump to turn on.  

Hey buddy just wanted to let you know I fixed the Journey today. Turns out the problem was the passenger side rear caliper. I took the wheel off and noticed a gap between the piston and inner brake pad suggesting that the piston was stuck and not applying the brakes on that corner.  I installed a new caliper, bled the brakes and now have a good firm pedal, stops like brand new. 

Definitely a learning experience for me. Would never have guessed a stuck caliper could cause a soft pedal. A good way to find if you have the same problem would be to unbolt one caliper at a time and have a helper push the  brake pedal  and see if the piston moves. I’ve used this method in the past to find bad calipers but didn’t bother on this car because I assumed it couldn’t be the problem. Live and learn. Good luck with your car!

• sppmaster , 2late4u , OhareFred and 2 others

On 2019-04-30 at 7:24 PM, Nelson said: Hey buddy just wanted to let you know I fixed the Journey today. Turns out the problem was the passenger side rear caliper. I took the wheel off and noticed a gap between the piston and inner brake pad suggesting that the piston was stuck and not applying the brakes on that corner.  I installed a new caliper, bled the brakes and now have a good firm pedal, stops like brand new.    Definitely a learning experience for me. Would never have guessed a stuck caliper could cause a soft pedal. A good way to find if you have the same problem would be to unbolt one caliper at a time and have a helper push the  brake pedal  and see if the piston moves. I’ve used this method in the past to find bad calipers but didn’t bother on this car because I assumed it couldn’t be the problem. Live and learn. Good luck with your car!

 Awesome thanks! I’ll be doing the same, I bought a vacuum pump to help in bleeding the brakes 

• 3 months later...

On 1.05.2019 г. at 4:24 AM, Nelson said: Hey buddy just wanted to let you know I fixed the Journey today. Turns out the problem was the passenger side rear caliper. I took the wheel off and noticed a gap between the piston and inner brake pad suggesting that the piston was stuck and not applying the brakes on that corner.  I installed a new caliper, bled the brakes and now have a good firm pedal, stops like brand new.    Definitely a learning experience for me. Would never have guessed a stuck caliper could cause a soft pedal. A good way to find if you have the same problem would be to unbolt one caliper at a time and have a helper push the  brake pedal  and see if the piston moves. I’ve used this method in the past to find bad calipers but didn’t bother on this car because I assumed it couldn’t be the problem. Live and learn. Good luck with your car!

I have absolutely the same issue with the brakes of Fiat Freemont (It's just a twin car of Dodge Journey for Europe). That soft pedal came after brake fluid and the rear brake pads were changed at the service shop. Never had issues before that point. The pedal was always firm and the max movement that was possible was around 2-3 inches. Now it goes down all the way to the floor and is spongy. I don't know if the reason could be a defective caliper but when the brake system was tested on brake stand all wheels stopped evenly with the needed force. No one is able at the moment to resolve the issue for 8 months. I'm lost.

I've even made a video of this low brake pedal. Can you check and confirm the pedal movement and behaviour.

• 5 weeks later...

Does anyone read this thread. I've found another possible reason here in the first post.

https://www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/read-this-before-doing-your-rear-brakes.159561/

To be honest I cannot fully understand what that person tried to explain about the rear brakes and the gap between the pads and the piston and how he possibly fixed it.

Can anyone help.

1 hour ago, sppmaster said: Does anyone read this thread. I've found another possible reason here in the first post. https://www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/read-this-before-doing-your-rear-brakes.159561/ To be honest I cannot fully understand what that person tried to explain about the rear brakes and the gap between the pads and the piston and how he possibly fixed it. Can anyone help.

What are your symptoms?

12 hours ago, jkeaton said:   What are your symptoms?  

Eight months ago I went to the official dealer service shop for yearly maintenance. The mechanic changed the brake fluid and the rear brake pads. Since then when I press the brake pedal the car slows down and stops, but if I continue to press the pedal, it goes down to the floor and make hissing sound/noise as if compressed air is going out of it (like a tyre pump). I returned to the service shop and explained all of this. They made a test drive and said all is normal and it takes time the new brake pads to self adjust to the brake rotors. I've driven around 50 km in the city and nothing changed. The next day I was at the service shop again in order to make sure there is no air left inside the brake system. The car was at the service shop the whole day and I was told later that all air is out and it is normal the pedal goes down to the floor. According to the mechanic I should drive 500 km before the brake pads self adjust and pedal stops going down to the floor. I think this is not normal and very hazardous to drive this way.

Already passed 700 km but no change. The brake pedal still goes down to the floor when I press it. The FIAT workshop is unable to solve or repair it. Several days later the car was at the service shop for the third time after changing the rear brake pads. The air bleeding was performed and one of the rear brake apparatus was serviced and checked but nothing has changed. Cost me 70 euro for nothing. People from the workshop say this behaviour is normal on all Freemonts.

I didn't have that problem before and the brake pedal was firm and didn't go to the floor.

Already eight months and no solution to this.

7 hours ago, sppmaster said: Eight months ago I went to the official dealer service shop for yearly maintenance. The mechanic changed the brake fluid and the rear brake pads. Since then when I press the brake pedal the car slows down and stops, but if I continue to press the pedal, it goes down to the floor and make hissing sound/noise as if compressed air is going out of it (like a tyre pump). I returned to the service shop and explained all of this. They made a test drive and said all is normal and it takes time the new brake pads to self adjust to the brake rotors. I've driven around 50 km in the city and nothing changed. The next day I was at the service shop again in order to make sure there is no air left inside the brake system. The car was at the service shop the whole day and I was told later that all air is out and it is normal the pedal goes down to the floor. According to the mechanic I should drive 500 km before the brake pads self adjust and pedal stops going down to the floor. I think this is not normal and very hazardous to drive this way. Already passed 700 km but no change. The brake pedal still goes down to the floor when I press it. The FIAT workshop is unable to solve or repair it. Several days later the car was at the service shop for the third time after changing the rear brake pads. The air bleeding was performed and one of the rear brake apparatus was serviced and checked but nothing has changed. Cost me 70 euro for nothing. People from the workshop say this behaviour is normal on all Freemonts. I didn't have that problem before and the brake pedal was firm and didn't go to the floor. Already eight months and no solution to this.

If the problem started right after having the rear brakes worked on then the problem is most likely with the rear brakes unless something else happened coincidently (unlikely but possible). I would unbolt one of the rear calipers and have a helper push the pedal a few times while you watch the piston, it should slowly move outward with each pump of the pedal. Check them both one at a time. 

I’d also inspect all the rubber caliper hoses for bulging with the engine running and a helper holding the brake pedal down. You could also take a piece of brake line and loop the lines at the master cylinder (I mentioned this in my first post in this thread), if the pedal feels good then you know the master cylinder is good. 

It’s likely the problem is with the rear calipers. I’m not a fan of this style where the pistons screws in and out, I’ve seen many of them seize up during normal brake service like changing pads, on many cars not just Dodge Journeys. Let us know what you find. 

• 2late4u and Summer Solstice

As I have read a lot of writings on the subject over the Internet I wonder if this low and spongy brake pedal could be caused by a bad adjustment of the parking brake or it could be the ABS module. The second thing I observed after the rear brake pads change was the completely maladjusted parking brake. I had to pull 8-10 pins to hold the car. Before that it needed only 2-3 pins. The brake stand test showed irregularity of 35% between the left (lower stopping force) and right rear brakes for the parking brake.

I don't have the option to change the ABS and the mechanic from the service shop told me it's OK after it was tested.

I've tried with another brake master cylinder but just got the same low and spongy  brake pedal.

NavalLacrosse

I noticed this issue too when I changed my rear brake pads.  When I bought the car, there were no issues (that I noticed).  

After I changed the rear pads and rotors, I noticed immediately the same issue- exactly as OP describes. 

I thought the cause to be one of two things:

1) When compressing the rear caliper, I used a c-clamp... and really pressed it hard. it wasn't till later I rented the turning brake tool.

2) after the job, I decided to bleed the brakes with my dad. We ingested air at the reservoir, and re-compressed the caliber to force the air out the top, which seemed to work. Took the car on the road for the first time and knew something was wrong. Exactly as described- derivable with no issues, but the pedal just slowly sinks to the floor if i press my foot on it while stopped. I've just learned to ignore it. I'll bleed the whole system one day via a mechanic, but until then it's so subtle I'll just keep driving it.

• 2late4u and sppmaster

On 9/11/2019 at 7:47 PM, sppmaster said: Does anyone read this thread. I've found another possible reason here in the first post. https://www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/read-this-before-doing-your-rear-brakes.159561/ To be honest I cannot fully understand what that person tried to explain about the rear brakes and the gap between the pads and the piston and how he possibly fixed it. Can anyone help.

as he stated put both rear tires in the air, both wheels off and have someone press on the brake and spin the hubs if one of them still spin ,then watch when he releases the brake pedal and pushes on it again to see if the caliper is tightening onto the rotor if not then you have a froze caliper or a bad one ,also check the caliper pins on both rear to make sure they are greased

• Summer Solstice and sppmaster

27 minutes ago, 2late4u said: as he stated put both rear tires in the air, both wheels off and have someone press on the brake and spin the hubs if one of them still spin ,then watch when he releases the brake pedal and pushes on it again to see if the caliper is tightening onto the rotor if not then you have a froze caliper or a bad one ,also check the caliper pins on both rear to make sure they are greased

As i triple read the post I think I fully understood the actions of that guy. But he says that he used another tool and drive ratchet to push the pistons and not recommended by the manufacturer special tool that rotates the piston while pushing it down. And after that he got that low pedal and he says that he pushed the pistons too far and that was a mistake. But he explains that all of this was reversible by turning the piston counterclockwise. After doing that the low brake pedal disappeared for him.

Honestly I don't understand how is it possible that a gap can exist between the piston and the brake pad. The only thing that make sens to me is to think that using an inappropriate tool could lead to a gap inside the parking brake mechanism of the rear caliper and that gap is somehow responsible for that pedal behavior but it's just my thinking.

• sppmaster and Summer Solstice

3 hours ago, 2late4u said: if the caliper piston is not fully extending then it wont tighten onto the rotor....also look at the front of the caliper piston if there is groves like a plus then these are the ones you have to turn in i bought a cheap cube tool that has different nubs on it that fit into the groves and then use a ratchet to turn . here is piture of it about $7.at harbor fright or most part stores

In case the piston doesn't tighten onto the rotor shouldn't be there a little brake force on that wheel. What is supposed to happen when the piston is turned in.

• 2 months later...

As my issue with the brakes is still not resolved, I've started thinking there might be a problem with the ABS/ECU module. Maybe a stuck valve in the ECU causes the brake fluid to bypass internally and probably the low brake pedal is due to this. I don't have spare ABS/ECU module to try this theory but it seems very reasonable considering all other things I've done so far - master cylinder change, several brake bleedings performed, etc. Does anyone know if there is a detailed information about the ABS/HCU system and explanation of its work. Has anyone ever tried to change the ABS/ECU of his Dodge Journey and resolved the issue with the sinking brake pedal.

1 hour ago, sppmaster said: As my issue with the brakes is still not resolved, I've started thinking there might be a problem with the ABS/ECU module. Maybe a stuck valve in the ECU causes the brake fluid to bypass internally and probably the low brake pedal is due to this. I don't have spare ABS/ECU module to try this theory but it seems very reasonable considering all other things I've done so far - master cylinder change, several brake bleedings performed, etc. Does anyone know if there is a detailed information about the ABS/HCU system and explanation of its work. Has anyone ever tried to change the ABS/ECU of his Dodge Journey and resolved the issue with the sinking brake pedal.

so if this all started right after your brake job at the dealership and have been back and the said they need to break in for a while ( which is bullshit) i would go back and demand they fix what they messed up on their dime ...be nice but be firm and dont stand for no double talk

35 minutes ago, 2late4u said: so if this all started right after your brake job at the dealership and have been back and the said they need to break in for a while ( which is bullshit) i would go back and demand they fix what they messed up on their dime ...be nice but be firm and dont stand for no double talk

I have been several times (5 or 6) at the dealer (two different FCA dealer service shops) for 10 months and they obviously cannot repair it and said it's OK and it's normal for this car that the brake pedal goes down to the floor (ridiculous and incompetent).

The worst thing is that I made an official complaint to the FCA customer care international hotline, I wrote several (over 10) emails to them explaining all of this in greatest details, asking them for official statement about the brake pedal movement and technical design and tolerances of the brake system, asking the support if all of this is normal and safe, complaining, etc.

I didn't receive any information, I've asked for. Not a single piece of technical data nor specification. 

Finally to my greatest regret I've been told this - Quote from the last email - " We are sorry to learn that you cannot accept the answer. Regrettably, we are not in the position to contest the information from our representatives."

What a joke.

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Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. You can find train tickets for prices as low as , but it may require some flexibility with your travel plans. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets. Unfortunately, no price was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find price results. Prices will vary when you travel from Moscow to Elektrostal. On average, though, you'll pay about for a train ticket. If you're looking for a low price, you may need to prepare to spend more time in transit. You can also often find cheaper train tickets at particular times of day, or on certain days of the week. Of course, ticket prices often change during the year, too; expect to pay more in peak season. For the lowest prices, it's usually best to make your reservation in advance. Be careful, though, as many providers do not offer refunds or exchanges on their cheapest train tickets.

How long does it take to get from Moscow to Elektrostal by train?

The journey between Moscow and Elektrostal by train is approximately 32.44 mi. It will take you more or less 2 hr 7 min to complete this journey. This average figure does not take into account any delays that might arise on your route in exceptional circumstances. If you are planning to make a connection or operating on a tight schedule, give yourself plenty of time. The distance between Moscow and Elektrostal is around 32.44 mi. Depending on the exact route and provider you travel with, your journey time can vary. On average, this journey will take approximately 2 hr 7 min. However, the fastest routes between Moscow and Elektrostal take 1 hr 3 min. If a fast journey is a priority for you when traveling, look out for express services that may get you there faster. Some flexibility may be necessary when booking. Often, these services only leave at particular times of day - or even on certain days of the week. You may also find a faster journey by taking an indirect route and connecting in another station along the way.

How many journeys from Moscow to Elektrostal are there every day?

On average, there are 71 daily departures from Moscow to Elektrostal. However, there may be more or less on different days. Providers' timetables can change on certain days of the week or public holidays, and many also vary at particular times of year. Some providers change their schedules during the summer season, for example. At very busy times, there may be up to departures each day. The providers that travel along this route include , and each operates according to their own specific schedules. As a traveler, you may prefer a direct journey, or you may not mind making changes and connections. If you have heavy suitcases, a direct journey could be best; otherwise, you might be able to save money and enjoy more flexibility by making a change along the way. Every day, there are an average of 18 departures from Moscow which travel directly to Elektrostal. There are 53 journeys with one change or more. Unfortunately, no connection was found for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal. Selecting a new departure or arrival city, without dramatically changing your itinerary could help you find connections.

Book in advance and save

If you're looking for the best deal for your trip from Moscow to Elektrostal, booking train tickets in advance is a great way to save money, but keep in mind that advance tickets are usually not available until 3 months before your travel date.

Stay flexible with your travel time and explore off-peak journeys

Planning your trips around off-peak travel times not only means that you'll be able to avoid the crowds, but can also end up saving you money. Being flexible with your schedule and considering alternative routes or times will significantly impact the amount of money you spend on getting from Moscow to Elektrostal.

Always check special offers

Checking on the latest deals can help save a lot of money, making it worth taking the time to browse and compare prices. So make sure you get the best deal on your ticket and take advantage of special fares for children, youth and seniors as well as discounts for groups.

Unlock the potential of slower trains or connecting trains

If you're planning a trip with some flexible time, why not opt for the scenic route? Taking slower trains or connecting trains that make more stops may save you money on your ticket – definitely worth considering if it fits in your schedule.

Best time to book cheap train tickets from Moscow to Elektrostal

The cheapest Moscow - Elektrostal train tickets can be found for as low as $35.01 if you’re lucky, or $54.00 on average. The most expensive ticket can cost as much as $77.49.

Find the best day to travel to Elektrostal by train

When travelling to Elektrostal by train, if you want to avoid crowds you can check how frequently our customers are travelling in the next 30-days using the graph below. On average, the peak hours to travel are between 6:30am and 9am in the morning, or between 4pm and 7pm in the evening. Please keep this in mind when travelling to your point of departure as you may need some extra time to arrive, particularly in big cities!

Moscow to Elektrostal CO2 Emissions by Train

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