great rail journeys outer hebrides

The Outer Hebrides and The Highlands

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Day 1 - Arrive In Glasgow

We meet in Glasgow, a city which has become one of Scotland's best tourist highlights. The striking architecture here delightfully represents the old beauty of the city, which contrasts against contemporary areas that showcase the modern-day revival of the industrial city. We spend the night here

Day 2 - The West Highland Line

We journey on the magnificent West Highland Line from Glasgow to Fort William today. This spectacular rail journey travels under the gaze of moody mountains and over stone bridges on a route which takes in the best of the wild and dramatic landscapes of the Scottish Highlands. This rail journey is widely regarded as one of the finest in the world, and for good reason. Few things can beat the stunning drama of the glorious Scottish Highlands, with purple heather running rampant over the moorlands and breathtaking mountain scenery, and we soak it all up on our journey. We arrive in Fort William and transfer to our hotel where we enjoy dinner

Day 3 - The Outer Hebrides

We continue on the West Highland Line to Mallaig. This is an incredible stretch of one of the most beautiful railway lines in the world. Beginning with a journey along the brooding banks of Loch Eil we continue on to one of the highlights of this journey, the magnificent Glenfinnan Viaduct. This famous example of Victorian architecture is truly a wonderful feat of engineering, and well-known for its inclusion in the Harry Potter films. We enjoy astonishing views of the ancient forests and glens of central Scotland before arriving in Mallaig for our first glimpse of the beautiful Scottish coastline. We continue by coach through Skye and travel by ferry* to the Outer Hebrides and Stornoway.

*You will need to take you own bags on the ferry, rather than them travel via our luggage service.

Day 4 - The Kildonan Museum And Cultural Centre

We take the ferry to Berneray this morning, continuing by coach to the Stepping Stones restaurant for lunch. Later, we discover more about the area with a visit to the Kildonan Museum and Cultural Centre, where we are accompanied by an expert guide. After, you have some free time to explore more of the museum, craft shop, and archaeology room, or maybe to grab a coffee in the on-site cafe. Sights to be seen here include a recreated croft house with an authentic kitchen, and the Clan Ranald Stone, an ancient carved memorial stone with a fascinating history. We continue to the nearby birthplace of Flora McDonald, famous for helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape Scotland after the Jacobites were defeated in 1746's Battle of Culloden.

Day 5 : Days 5-6 - The Butt Of Lewis And Callanish Standing Stones

We take a coach excursion today, beginning with the Butt of Lewis, an atmospheric area at the most northerly point of Lewis. We continue to the Port of Ness, a pretty fishing village, and Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, a preserved village from the 1800s. Next, we visit the Callanish Standing Stones and visitor centre. The stones were erected in the late Neolithic period and used for rituals during the Bronze Age, and are surrounded by local legend. We're accompanied by a specialist guide, who is full of fascinating insights about the island.

On Day 6 , we head to Tarbert for a visit to the Isle of Harris Distillery, where we enjoy a tour and tasting, and visit the tweed shop. After time for lunch, we transfer to Ullapool on the mainland. We enjoy a coach journey through the awe-inspiring scenery of the Highlands on our way to Inverness, where we check into our hotel.

Day 6 : Days 7-8 - Inverness, Glasgow And Home

Enjoy a free morning in Inverness today. You may like to walk by the banks of the River Ness, which feeds the famous Loch Ness. One of the delightful sights that line the banks is Inverness Castle, a beautiful sight. You may also like to visit Inverness Cathedral and see its beautiful nave. This afternoon, we take the train onwards to Glasgow, where we enjoy a final meal at our hotel. Following breakfast on Day 8 , you're free to depart.

What's Included

Standard Class Rail

All rail and coach travel throughout your tour

7 nights' 4-Star hotel accommodation

Inclusive luggage transfers from Glasgow

UK Tour Manager from start to finish

All ferry transfers

Accommodation

• Nevis Bank Inn, Fort William
• Apex City of Glasgow Hotel, Glasgow
• Macdonald Hotel Drumossie, Inverness
• Cabarfeidh Hotel, Stornoway

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Grand Tour of the Outer Hebrides

Vatersay Bay, the Outer Hebrides in Scotland

Travel the length and breadth of the Western Isles on a tour that includes visits to 5,000-year-old standing stones, time to enjoy areas of natural beauty and four scenic ferry crossings, along with accommodation, 5 dinners and 5 breakfasts.

Our extended tour of the Outer Hebrides has proved extremely popular, offering as it does a unique opportunity to travel the length and breadth of the Western Isles. Our Grand tour takes in all the beauty and diversity of this very special environment with nine or ten different islands (depending on departure) and four ferry trips included. Two comfortable hotels ensure that this holiday in the Outer Hebrides is as relaxing as possible, while at the same time offering great variety and the sense of a true journey of discovery which will live long in the memory. This itinerary features part of the North Coast 500, the highly scenic coastal route which begins and ends in Inverness. Highlights include visits to Luskentyre Beach, the Standing Stones of Callanish, the Norse Mill at Shawbost, the Black Houses of Gearrannan, Cockleshell Beach airport on the Isle of Barra, St. Clement's Church at Rodel and South Uist's Kildonan Museum.

From £895 per adult

Departure days.

• W Wednesday

April — October

Contact details

• +44 () 01334766062
• View tour details
• [email protected]

Tour information

• Dunfermline
• Archaeology
• Island Hopping

Tour prices

From £895 Per Adult

Prices are subject to change depending on season

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Tour gallery

Tour company information

Brightwater holidays.

Celebrating its 30th anniversary in 2022, Brightwater Holidays is a well-established specialist in quality, escorted garden holidays and Scenic Scottish tours. The company won a bronze prize at the British Travel Awards in 2020 for Best Coach Holiday Company, and both gold and silver in the 2019 iteration of the awards ceremony for Best Coach Holiday Company and Best Special Interest Holiday Company respectively. It also has a dedicated Private Groups service, with the Private Groups Manager Jenni Duncan being shortlisted for Group Leisure & Travel’s Excellence Award in 2021.

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Opening times

9am - 5pm, Monday to Friday

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Isle of Skye and the Outer Hebrides - 6 day tour

Isle of Skye and the Outer Hebrides 6 day/5 night tour

Take an unforgettable journey across land and sea to Scotland’s most iconic attractions. Go monster-spotting at Loch Ness, explore the wonders of Lewis and Harris, fall in love with the magical Isle of Skye and take a steam-train ride across the majestic Glenfinnan Viaduct. Stunning scenery and captivating castles abound in an intoxicating odyssey that brings myth and legend to life.

Loch Ness - enjoy a monster-spotting drive along the banks of this enigmatic loch

Butt of Lewis - visit the isolated lighthouse overlooking the pounding waves of the Atlantic Ocean

Callanish Standing Stones - explore these impressive standing stones thought to be older than Stonehenge

Isle of Skye - see the stunning peaks of the Cuillin Hills and tour through the bizarre landscape of Trotternish

Eilean Donan Castle - discover this superbly romantic fortress

Jacobite Steam Train - savour a one-way ride on the famous West Highland Line aboard the real Hogwarts Express

Movie locations - Brave, Highlander and Harry Potter

Guest house accommodation included  

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Full Tour Itinerary

Select Day:

Day 1 - Edinburgh - Loch Ness - Inverness

From the nation’s capital, we head north, leaving its bustling streets behind as we adventure through rolling fields and glens.

Our first stop is to see the magnificent Kelpies. These massive equine statutes were designed by sculptor Andy Scott and celebrate the role heavy horses played in the industrial development of Central Scotland. 

We are surrounded by history as our journey continues through William Wallace country which takes us past the imposing heights of Stirling Castle and the Wallace Monument . Remember to keep a lookout for the ramparts of Doune Castle, the star of both Outlander and Game of Thrones .

More atmospheric scenery awaits as we thread our way through the dramatic peaks and valleys of Glen Coe – also known as the ‘ Glen of Weeping ‘ – and the snow-capped peak of the UK’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis.

As we near the banks of Loch Ness, learn more about the legendary creature said to inhabit its icy depths. A short stop on its shores gives you the chance to look out for Nessie herself before we continue on to Inverness. We arrive in plenty of time for a leisurely stroll beside the river or castle, before a relaxing dinner among the city’s many bars and restaurants.

Overnight: Inverness

Day 2 - Inverness - Ullapool - Stornoway

After a hearty breakfast, we bid farewell to Inverness and turn northwards. Our first stop is the tumbling waters of Black Water Falls at Garve, where we pause awhile to drink in the clean mountain air and stunning scenery.

Thoroughly invigorated, we leisurely wind our way north on one of Scotland’s most picturesque roads, passing majestic mountains and peaceful glens along the way.

The next stop is the pretty fishing port of Ullapool on Loch Broom, which serves as our stepping stone to the Isle of Lewis. From here, we hop aboard the ferry for the crossing to Stornoway . Keep an eye out for the friendly leaping dolphins who often accompany travellers on their way!

On arrival in the Outer Hebrides , there’s plenty of time to explore these beautiful islands' remote and rugged charms. We start our island adventure by meandering south towards the idyllic splendour and welcoming tranquillity of the Isle of Harris .

Famous worldwide for its glittering turquoise seas and gleaming white sands, we pause awhile to marvel at this wonder of nature, framed by its imposing mountain backdrop.

Our day ends gazing across the water amid the welcoming lights of Stornoway, where a choice of freshly-caught specials awaits in its cosy eateries.

Overnight: Stornoway (2 nights)

Day 3 - Exploring the Isle of Lewis

With an exciting day of discovery ahead of us, another delicious Highland breakfast is essential before we set out to explore the many delights of Lewis.

First, we journey back 5,000 years to the Neolithic age as we explore the dramatic beauty of the old Calanais Standing Stones , their weathered faces standing impassively in the shadow of the Great Bernera hills. Please note that from 01 September 2024, there will be no access due to conservation work.

From here, we jump forward thousands of years as we wander the Iron Age settlement at Dun Carloway Broch . Close your eyes and imagine the hustle and bustle of the thriving community that prospered here for centuries.

Our next port of call is a little more up to date as we head to the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, where we receive a fascinating first-hand demonstration of 17th-century life on this remote island.

No visit is complete without a trip to its most northerly point, the Butt of Lewis , where the swirling foam crashes against the cliffs beneath a majestic lighthouse.

Today’s travels complete, we head back to Stornoway, where there is still time to wander the pretty harbour and choose which delicious seafood to sample tonight.

Day 4 - Stornoway - Isle of Harris - Portree

We start our day by visiting the popular Harris Distillery in the village of Tarbert, where we relax with a wee dram of their finest uisge beatha .

The dramatic coastline’s many bays and inlets can be seen as we board the ferry for our next island destination, gulls wheeling noisily above us as we head over the sea to Skye.

Renowned for its abundant wildlife and breathtaking landscapes, the afternoon is spent on the island’s northern point, exploring the Trotternish peninsula. Here, we soak up the stunning scenery and admire the awe-inspiring rock formations, including the Quiraing and the Old Man of Storr.

Folklore is also on our agenda as we learn about the island’s fascinating myths and legends and its famous history, including Flora MacDonald helping the fugitive Bonnie Prince Charlie flee to the isle disguised as her maid in 1746.

Suitably enlightened, we retire to the scenic town of Portree, where fresh ingredients and delicious local specialities await in its many welcoming restaurants.

Overnight: Portree (2 nights)

Day 5 - Exploring the Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle

As the sun stretches its fingers across the waters of our peaceful harbour home, we breakfast in anticipation, knowing another day of exploration awaits.

The first stop is the Waternish peninsula and the charming Fairy Bridge . Sitting beside the main road, this pretty stone structure is said to mark the spot where a clan chief’s fairy wife bid him farewell before returning to her own people.

Equally enchanting are the sparkling waters of the Sligachan River, which tumble beneath breathtaking views of the Cuillin mountains. Said to grant eternal beauty, we will pause for a while to appreciate the scene and hear their fascinating mythology.

Another fairytale sight greets us as we cross the Skye Bridge to arrive at one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks – Eilean Donan Castle . Standing proudly at the meeting point of three sea lochs, this 13th-century island fortress is world famous thanks to appearances in films including Highlander and The World is Not Enough. There’s plenty of time to put yourself in the picture too, as we explore its delights and pose for photographs amid stunning scenery.

We then return to Portree for your final chance to browse its colourful shops and restaurants and sample the real taste of Scotland.

Day 6 - Portree - Jacobite Steam Train - Edinburgh

Our final day dawns with a slight sadness at leaving this magical isle – but also excitement at the epic experiences that still await us.

After enjoying breakfast in our charming village, we set out for a drive through the lush Sleat Peninsula, known as the garden of Skye. Our destination is the ferry port of Armadale.

From here it’s a hop, skip and jump back to the mainland as we board our ferry once again, this time arriving at the bustling fishing village of Mallaig.

After a brief pause to catch our breath, we swap our sea legs for steam power as it’s all aboard the Jacobite Steam Train for one of the world’s most spellbinding railway journeys.

With spectacular views all around us, we follow in the tracks of Harry Potter as we cross the 21 giant arches of the Glenfinnan Viaduct, our faithful engine whistling merrily as we speed 100ft above the lush forests and rivers below.

After alighting, we take the scenic route south, admiring the beauty of the Cairngorms National Park before arriving home in Edinburgh.

Frequently Asked Questions

What can i expect on this signature multi-day tour.

For the discerning traveller a Signature Multi-day Tour offers amazing value for money, comfortable accommodation, well-paced sightseeing and luxury travel.

All of this combines to create the definitive Scottish experience.

Each tour is hosted by a professional driver/guide, who has been chosen for their extensive knowledge as well as their driving skills. And being locals you are sure to get that extra insight. If you should have any problems during your stay, they’ll go out of their way to help.

You will want to see as much as possible, but you don’t want to be rushed. Our tours are carefully planned to strike the right balance, and as well as comfortable mini/midicoach travel many feature memorable railway or ferry journeys.

Having somewhere pleasant to stay after an exciting day of discovery is an important part of your holiday experience. Comfortable guest house accommodation with en-suite bathrooms, tv and other amenities is included in the price of all tours.

A tasty Scottish breakfast is included each morning of your stay.

What options are available on this tour and what is the cost?

To give you maximum flexibility the cost of admission fees and other optional extras are not included in the tour price. This gives you complete freedom to choose as the mood takes you. On this tour the optional visits are:

Abhainn Dearg Distillery Eilean Donan Castle Armadale Castle

Following the links above will give you more information on each attraction including current admission prices. At some locations a special discount is offered to tour participants, your driver/guide will give you more information if this applies. Credit/debit cards are not always accepted so you should plan to have sufficient cash with you should you wish to make any visits.

Tell me about my accommodation and which type of room should I choose?

The cost of accommodation is included in the price of your tour.

The guesthouses and B&Bs are carefully selected and offer comfortable accommodation in bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, tv, tea/coffee-making facilities and other facilities. Bedding, towels and basic toiletries are provided.

Some guesthouses and B&B’s offer enhanced facilities, such as a resident’s lounge where you can relax with other guests.

Accommodation is spread throughout the communities that we stay in and is seldom more than a 10/15 minute walk from the town or village centre.

What is the journey on the Jacobite Steam Train like?

Described as one of the great railway journeys of the world this memorable trip will take you past a list of impressive extremes.

Starting near the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis, it visits Britain’s most westerly mainland railway station, Arisaig; passes close by the deepest freshwater loch in Britain, Loch Morar and the shortest river in Britain, River Morar, finally arriving next to the deepest seawater loch in Europe, Loch Nevis!

The train will cross the 21-arched Glenfinnan viaduct (a location made famous in the Harry Potter films) which overlooks Loch Shiel and the Jacobite monument. The train may pause on the viaduct, time permitting, to allow you to take in the magnificent view.

Standard class tickets are included in the cost of the tour. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to upgrade these tickets to First Class.

Will there be time to visit Eilean Donan Castle?

We allow a stop of approximately 1 hour to visit Eilean Donan Castle.

Please note that this information is for guidance only and the location and duration of any stop may be varied or cancelled for operational reasons. 

Should I make dinner reservations for an evening meal in Portree?

Yes! Portree is the capital and main town on the Isle of Skye, and therefore is a very popular destination, especially in the summer months. There are many excellent restaurants in Portree , and they tend to get pretty busy, so we strongly recommend making reservations for your evening meal to avoid disappointment.  

We advise not making your dinner reservations for any earlier than 7pm to allow plenty of time for the coach to return to Portree, after a full day of exploring the wonders of the Magical Isle. 

You can also check out our Portree blog for more tips and information. 

View all Frequently Asked Questions...

Accommodation

• 5 nights guest house accommodation - all rooms with private bathrooms
• Locations: Inverness (1); Stornoway (2) and Portree (2)
• Scottish/Continental breakfast (5)

Visits, Admissions and Experiences

• One way Jacobite Steam Train trip on the West Highland Railway Line

Tour Essentials

• Transportation by luxury air-conditioned mini/midi coach
• Ferry to the Isle of Lewis
• Ferry to the Isle of Skye
• Live commentary in English
• Services of an experienced driver/guide
• Service charges and taxes
• Admission charges unless stated above
• Meals, snacks or items of a personal nature
• Gratuity to your driver/guide

Departure information

60 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TB

Check-in: 08:15 hrs Tour Departs: 08:30 hrs Tour Returns: 20:30 hrs

Child details

Concession discounts apply to adults aged 60 years and above; students and children aged 5 to 16 years inclusive.

We’re really sorry but children aged under 5 years cannot travel on this tour.

Photo-ID may be requested to confirm discount entitlement.  

Price Notes

Book Assured Book by paying a 20% deposit. Make date changes or get a full refund with 8 days notice before travel. Click here for more information .

Accommodation The price of this tour includes guest house accommodation with en-suite bathroom.  

Luggage Allowance One medium sized suitcase/bag per person (maximum weight: 15 kilos)

Admission Prices In order to give you maximum flexibility admission fees are not included in the cost of this tour. See the FAQ section below for more information and guidance on prices.

Product code HET02933

Blogs and Guides - discover insider tips and ideas

Customer Reviews Overall Rating:

Lots seen on this tour and good knowledge imparted by driver/guide. Overnight stays were in excellent premises and food in all places were excellent. Would recommend this tour.

Our tour guide Tom was absolutely brilliant, nothing was too much trouble for him, I was travelling with my 85yr father and husband and he was so good to us, very knowledgeable and entertaining with his information and stories on the tour

Accommodationss were great. Lots of opportunities to appreciate the scenery and beauty of Scotland.

5 day tour from £ 850.00

Scottish Highlands and the Outer Hebrides

Highlights and Inclusions

• Explore Inverness, the gateway to the mesmerizing Scottish Highlands 
• Tour the many unforgettable places and landscapes of the Isle of Skye 
• Visit the Eilean Donan Castle, the most photographed castle in Scotland 
• Spend 2 days exploring the Outer Hebrides 
• Visit Lewis and marvel at the 5000 year old Callanish Stones  
• Discover Edinburgh’s charms, such as its medieval Old Town and Princes Street 
• Rail travel as per itinerary  
• 1 night accommodation onboard Caledonian Sleeper 
• 2 nights accommodation with breakfast in Inverness 
• 2 nights accommodation with breakfast in Stornoway 
• 2 nights accommodation with breakfast in Edinburgh 
• Skye and Eilean Donan Castle tour from Inverness 
• 3 day round trip with guide to the Outer Hebrides  
• Hop-on, hop-off sightseeing tour in Inverness 
• City tour of Edinburgh 

Your journey begins on the Caledonian Sleeper Depart London on the Caledonian Sleeper for your overnight journey to Inverness, the gateway to the Scottish Highlands. (Overnight onboard the Caledonian Sleeper)

Inverness   Boasting an abundance of culture, history, a beautiful Old Town, and the 19th-century Inverness Cathedral, this city, and the surrounding region was made for exploring. (Overnight in Inverness)

Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle Tour Today's included tour features many memorable moments. You'll travel through dramatic Highland landscapes before visiting Eilean Donan Castle, known as the most photographed castle in Scotland. Then, you'll cross over into Isle of Skye, where you'll stop for a photo of the Red Cuillin Mountains. In the coastal town of Portree, you have free time to enjoy lunch and stroll the Trotternish Peninsula. Kilt Rock and the Quiraing will certainly be highlights. From there, you'll visit Kyleakin for refreshments and the chance to see Castle Moil or the Skye Bridge. (Overnight in Inverness)

Inverness to The Outer Hebrides After an early start, you travel straight from Inverness to Ullapool and catch your ferry to the islands. This stunning sea trip takes you along Loch Broom, past the Summer Isles, and out to Stornoway; the capital of the Outer Hebrides. Once you’ve arrived at Lewis, your first stop is the ancient past. You travel to the North West of the island and get the chance to visit the ‘blackhouse’ at Arnol. Dive into this traditional abode and discover how the Highland crofting families lived their day-to-day lives. Finish the day with a trip to the Butt of Lewis to admire the famous lighthouse (Overnight Stornoway)

The Outer Hebrides Today, you’re heading south to Harris. The first thing you notice about Harris is the mountains. And as you weave through the towering marvels, your guide will tell you about the traditions and tales of this part of Scotland. There are not many towns around here; but after you’ve had your fill of unspoiled beaches and landscapes, you stop in the small port of Leverburgh for lunch. Now it’s time for one of the great Hebridean highlights, Luskentyre beach. On a good day, the sea turns turquoise, and the sands look pristine white. After you’ve enjoyed all these natural wonders, it’s time to head back to Stornoway. Maybe it’s time to try the famous black pudding for dinner.  (Overnight Stornoway)

The Outer Hebrides to Inverness Retrace your steps by ferry and road to return to Inverness ahead of your journey to Edinburgh tomorrow.. (Overnight in Inverness)  

Inverness to Edinburgh Travel by direct train to Edinburgh. Settle in before setting out to explore the capital of Scotland! From the cobbled streets of the medieval Old Town to the sweeping views from the top of the many hills, there is so much beauty to explore here. (Overnight in Edinburgh)

Edinburgh During your included city tour, you’ll get to see the best attractions and learn all about local traditions and stories. Visit Princes Street, Grassmarket, Dean Village, and Holyrood Palace. (Overnight in Edinburgh)

Your journey ends in London

Spend one final morning in Edinburgh before catching the train back to London where your journey ends.

Call us today 0330 333 9304

Request Brochure - Scottish Highlands and the Outer Hebrides Please note, our partners will not send brochures outside the UK.

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Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

Home > Blog > Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Outer Hebrides

Picture pristine white sand beaches, mystical stone monuments, quiet roads through lochs and inlets, and wild waves crashing on a lighthouse. A colony of inquisitive puffins, distant ferries sailing by, and peaceful crofts and farmland with plentiful sheep. An icy cold wind reminds you that you’re on the far edge of Scotland. Welcome to the Outer Hebrides.

Absolute Escapes are award-winning specialists in self-drive holidays in Scotland , and we love the opportunity to use our knowledge and experience to design the perfect, bespoke holiday for our clients.

The Outer Hebrides is a destination close to our hearts and we’re delighted to share a bit of our first-hand knowledge. Read on to find out all you’ve ever wanted to know about visiting Scotland’s spectacular western islands.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Visit Outer Hebrides (@visitouterhebrides)

General FAQs:

Where are the Outer Hebrides?

What is the history of the outer hebrides, what’s the weather like in the outer hebrides, when is the best time to visit the outer hebrides, what’s the largest island in the outer hebrides.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides:

Do ferries sail to the Outer Hebrides?

Are there flights to the outer hebrides, how do i get from edinburgh or glasgow to the outer hebrides, how do i get from london to the outer hebrides.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides:

What kind of accommodation is in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there luxury hotels in the outer hebrides, what are the best places to stay in the outer hebrides.

Touring the Outer Hebrides:

What are the best things to do in the Outer Hebrides?

Are there good walking opportunities in the outer hebrides, where are the best beaches in the outer hebrides, what are the best boat trips in the outer hebrides, how do i visit st kilda, are there escorted tours of the outer hebrides, are there midges in the outer hebrides, how do i book a holiday to the outer hebrides.

The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, are a chain of remote islands located off the northwest coast of Scotland.

The main islands that form this archipelago include Lewis and Harris (two ‘islands’ connected by land), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. However, there are as many as ten more islands connected or attached to the main islands!

Tiny islands such as Berneray and Vatersay act as a link in the chain and are equally worth exploring, despite their small size.

The Outer Hebrides have been inhabited since Mesolithic times, and there is a range of fascinating prehistoric archaeological sites to discover. The most famous of these is the ancient Neolithic Calanais Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, which resembles its better-known younger cousin Stonehenge in England.

Also on Lewis you’ll find Dun Carloway – one of the best-preserved brochs in the country.

In addition to Neolithic stone structures, there are many other historic sites and interesting archaeological finds that reveal the fascinating history of the islands, from Medieval churches to mummy remains in the Cladh Hallan Roundhouses!

Celtic roots run deep within these island communities and Gaelic is an important aspect of life in the Outer Hebrides. Islanders are proud of their Celtic heritage, and this is reflected in the rich arts and music culture that stems from the islands.

Gaelic is still widely spoken and popular crafts such as Harris Tweed and Celtic jewellery are still handmade using traditional methods.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Stuart Ansell (@stuartansellphotography)

With their soft white sand and clear turquoise waters, picture-postcard images of beaches in the Outer Hebrides might transport you to the Caribbean. However, you are far from the Caribbean warmth!

The weather in the Outer Hebrides is much the same as in the rest of the west coast of Scotland – a bit chilly, a bit windy, and maybe a little wet at times.

While lovely sunny days do exist, it is always worth being prepared to face the elements. A light waterproof jacket, boots and layers are your best companion on an island-hopping adventure .

Although, make sure you don’t forget your swimming costume (or wetsuit perhaps!).

The Outer Hebrides are a very popular destination with limited accommodation on offer, so it’s always worth booking well in advance.

High summer months such as July and August tend to be the busiest, while May, June and September are great alternatives when the weather might be drier.

Summer days in the Outer Hebrides are long, giving you more opportunities to make the most of your trip and enjoy all that the islands have to offer.

Lewis & Harris is the largest island in the Outer Hebrides, where most of the population lives. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and commercial centre of the islands, home to approximately 8,000 people.

If you have limited time to visit the islands, then Stornoway or Tarbert in Harris might the best bases for you to explore much of the islands and do a couple of day trips.

Getting to the Outer Hebrides

There are various ways to travel to the Outer Hebrides, but if you wish to explore the whole chain, then multiple ferry rides are involved.

From the Scottish mainland, you can travel to Barra from Oban, to North Uist from Skye (which is connected to the mainland by the Skye Bridge), or to Stornoway from Ullapool.

While there are daily sailings available, these are limited to once or twice per day, so booking in advance is important if you are taking a car on the ferry. You can pre-book your journeys on the Calmac website.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by CalMac Ferries (@calmacferries)

Flying to the Outer Hebrides is also a tempting option as the flight to the Isle of Barra is an incredibly scenic and exciting trip! Barra Airport is unique as it is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach.

Direct flights are available from most Scottish airports to Barra, Lewis and Benbecula. Trips are typically under an hour, so travelling by air can be quicker than travelling by ferry, but often more expensive and less environmentally friendly. You can check flight times and plan your journey on the Skyscanner website.

From Edinburgh or Glasgow, you can either fly to Stornoway and/or Barra. While this might save you some time, the drive to the west coast of Scotland is spectacular and, in our opinion, unmissable.

We would recommend driving to Oban, following the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, and traversing across wild Argyll towards the coast.

If you prefer to start your island-hopping itinerary from the north to travel south, then travelling north across the Scottish Highlands to Ullapool will take a little longer. In this case, we would suggest splitting your journey by spending an additional night en route.

As there are no direct flights from London to the Outer Hebrides, we would recommend travelling to Edinburgh or Glasgow and making your way to the Outer Hebrides from there.

Staying on the Outer Hebrides

There is a range of lovely places to stay dotted all around in the Outer Hebrides. For our self-drive packages, we will normally try to secure accommodation in a larger town or village with various amenities, such and Stornoway or Tarbert.

However, there are some special places to stay in more remote areas, which are absolutely worth a short drive.

Proper luxury in the form of a 5* hotel is not available in the Outer Hebrides, but there are some truly spectacular and unique places to stay.

Scarista House in Harris is a very popular destination – an elegant yet rustic B&B and fine dining restaurant with lovely rooms featuring spectacular views towards the sea and nearby hills.

Another wonderful place to stay is Broad Bay House on the Isle of Lewis. Owners Sue and Tom offer a warm welcome to their beautiful 5* guest house which offers panoramic sea views, comfortable rooms, and some of the best local produce from the islands.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Scarista House (@scaristahouse)

Scarista House and Broad Bay House are undoubtedly two of the best places to stay on the islands. However, we also work with a range of accommodation in our Budget and Standard categories, which offer good food, comfort and an all-round unforgettable experience.

For example, the small Heathbank Hotel in Barra has a great restaurant featuring some of the freshest seafood in the country, while Beul Na Mara in Harris sits near the specular Luskentyre Beach and offers clean, bright and airy rooms.

Langass Lodge in North Uist is one of our top choices of Premium accommodation and another great place to stay; this former hunting lodge overlooks Loch Eport and its kitchen serves modern Scottish cuisine featuring fresh island ingredients.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Langass Lodge (@langasslodgehotel)

Touring the Outer Hebrides

Have we mentioned heading to the beach yet? In addition to the many stunning beaches on the islands, there are plenty of other great activities on offer.

History fans will enjoy exploring Lews Castle in Stornoway; a Victorian Baronial mansion, or visiting the brooding ruins of Kisimul Castle in Barra.

The 5,000-year-old Calanais Standing Stones are a must for all visitors to Lewis (including Outlander fans!), while Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is a short drive from Callanish. Here, you can learn about traditional Hebridean blackhouses with their drystone walls and picturesque thatched roofs.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Gearrannan Blackhouse Village (@gearrannanblackhousevillage)

For those interested in wildlife and the outdoors, there are endless opportunities for walking, cycling, and sea kayaking on the islands. The Hebridean Whale Trail follows the best places in the Outer Hebrides to spot cetaceans, such as porpoises, orca whales, minke whales, as well as basking sharks and dolphins.

The Bird of Prey Trail spans the whole island chain and features location markers for the best places to see birds of prey, such as golden eagles, hen harriers and short-eared owls.

Inspired by stunning scenery and rich Celtic heritage, the Outer Hebrides are also home to some of the finest arts and crafts in the world. If it is a cultural experience that you are seeking, visit Sgeulachd a Chlò Mhòir – the official ‘Story Room’ of the Harris Tweed Authority. Harris Tweed is a luxurious wool fabric, exclusively handwoven in the Western Isles and you can find it in the many craft and gift shops in the islands. The art centres An Lanntair in Stornoway and Taigh Chearsabhagh in North Uist also host inspiring exhibitions, theatre and music events.

For those interested in whisky and gin, you might want to pop by the Isle of Harris Distillery which sits on the shores of East Loch Tarbert. While their whisky is still maturing, you can buy a bottle of the lovely Isle of Harris Gin, infused with sugar kelp.

Yes! The Outer Hebrides are a walker’s paradise, with magnificent beaches peacefully stretching for miles on end. The Hebridean Way is a long-distance route spanning nearly 200 miles across 10 breathtaking islands. It is very popular not only with walkers but with cyclists too.

For hillwalkers, there are also some mountain ranges in Harris. To the north, there is the most extensive and highest range of mountains in the Outer Hebrides—a wild conglomeration of ridges, glens and summits. Clisham (or An Cliseam) is the highest mountain at 799 metres high and it is the archipelago’s only Corbett. Further hillwalking opportunities are available in Lewis and South Uist.

If you are interested in learning more, you might wish to purchase a Pocket Mountains guidebook for walking on the islands. We would also recommend visiting our friends at Walkhighlands for inspiration on trickier routes and to help you plan your walks.

The spectacular coastline in the Western Isles is one of the main reasons the archipelago is such as popular tourist destination. The Outer Hebrides have a restorative quality, with endless quiet beaches, an invigorating sea breeze, and the relaxing scent of machair and wildflowers.

Often rated as some of the top beaches in the world, Luskentyre Beach in Harris and Uig Sands in Lewis are undoubtedly two of the most spectacular beaches on the islands.

There are many other tranquil beaches to explore such as Vatersay Bay; the small island of Vatersay is linked by causeway to Barra and boats a stunning sandy bay and a wide expanse of dunes.

Eriskay is another small island connected to South Uist by a causeway and it is host to the beautiful Coileag a’ Prionnnsa beach.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Dan Ferguson (@_dfergie94)

As well as the trip to St Kilda (see below), Seatrek , which is based in Lewis, offers unforgettable boat trips around the Uig coastline.

Kilda Cruises also offer shorter trips off the coast of Harris, including fishing trips and excursions to the Shiant Isles.

St Kilda is one of the most unique and spectacular places one could visit in the world. This uninhabited isolated archipelago with rugged sea cliffs and impressive sea-stacks towers out of the wild Atlantic Ocean.

It is home to nearly one million seabirds, including the largest colony of Atlantic puffins in the UK. It is also one of the only dual UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. It is remote. It is wild. It is breathtaking.

A trip to St Kilda is certainly worth it, but not easy. It takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours to sail to St Kilda each way from the Isle of Harris. Boat trips are available from Leverburgh with Kilda Cruises and Sea Harris , and booking well in advance is essential.

As these trips are often disrupted by the weather, our recommendation would be to spend at least three nights in Harris and book the trip on day two, so if the trip needs to be rescheduled, you can try again the following day.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by MoodyScotland (@moodyscotland)

Our friends at Rabbie’s Tours offer escorted tours to the Outer Hebrides departing from Edinburgh and Inverness. Rabbie’s are an award-winning company whose expert guides truly take you beyond the guidebooks to explore the stunning scenery and extraordinary history of this country.

Explore the islands in a modern, air-conditioned mini-coach touring with a maximum of 16 passengers. Please get in touch if you are interested in an escorted tour. Rabbie’s will do the guiding, and with our expert knowledge, we’ll make sure you stay in the best accommodation on each island.

Midges are small biting insects and they can indeed be a pest. The good news is that they tend to not be too much of a problem in the Outer Hebrides as there is usually a bit of a sea breeze to keep them away.

Midges like cool, overcast days, and don’t like direct sunlight or wind. You might want to “smidge-up” if you are spending some time on the west coast upon your return from the islands though, particularly during high summer. Smidge is available almost everywhere in the Scottish Highlands, but we also recommend Avon Skin So Soft which is incredibly effective.

Our Hebridean Island Hopping itinerary is one of our most popular self-drive holidays in Scotland, but we can also create a bespoke itinerary based on your interests and requirements.

Please don’t hesitate to get in touch with our expert team if we can help you plan an unforgettable Hebridean escape!

Katia Fernandez Mayo

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The Hebridean Way

The Outer Hebrides - also known as the Western Isles - are traversed on this unique 253km walking route. The route begins on the island of Vatersay, and visits Barra, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, North Uist, Berneray and Harris and Lewis, finishing in the capital, Stornoway.

The route features varied walking and terrain. There are truly magnificent beaches with perfect white sand, fertile grassland meadows known as machair, vast areas of peat moorland speckled with sparkling lochans, and hills whose arresting outlines give them far greater stature than their height suggests.

The islands also offer a unique culture, being the stronghold of the Gaelic language, and superb wildlife. Yet another attraction are the archaelogical remains found throughout the islands - a treasure trove of prehistory. All these things are seen along the way.

THE CHALLENGE

Although the trail reaches a maximum altitude of only 270m, it should not be underestimated. The interior of the Outer Hebrides is largely composed of peat, and there is a great deal of boggy terrain on almost all stages. Although mostly well-waymarked, there are several sections which are pathless, so navigation skills are needed. There are also easier sections, with a fair amount of roadwalking and sandy beaches.

The islands are exceptionally windy, and with little tree cover or shelter, much of the route is exposed to any bad weather. Be sure you have adequate clothing and equipment.

BAGGAGE TRANSFERS AND WALKING PACKAGES

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ACCOMMODATION AND SERVICES ALONG THE WAY

Although the islands have a growing population of over 27,000, shops and accommodation are infrequent and the route needs careful planning, particularly for those who are not carrying a tent and stove. Note that even where there are shops and cafes, these are likely to be closed on Sundays, particularly on Harris and Lewis. Also many cafes and hotels are seasonal and some do not open until May - check before relying on them.

The route begins at the community hall on Vatersay, and the first stage leads across the island of Barra. There is one hotel - at Halaman Bay - en route, and some camping grounds nearby and a couple of campsites, there are no facilities at the stage end except for a seasonal coffee kiosk in the ferry waiting room. There are some B&Bs close to the route, or you could try to arrange pick up and/or drop off from Barra's capital, Castlebay.

After crossing the ferry, the second stage begins on the small island of Eriskay, which has a shop, bed and breakfast accommodation and a pub. A cafe is passed after the route leads onto South Uist, a campsite, and then an inn at Polochar. There is nothing right at the end of the stage, but Daliburgh (Dalabrog in Gaelic) is a short detour away and has a good shop, hotel and guest house.

The following stage ends at Howmore which has only a simple hostel and no other facilities; the stage is short and could be extended, or you could arrange an accommodation provider to pick you up and drop you off here.

Stage 4 leads onto Benbecula and ends at Liniclate, which has a hotel and some guest houses; there is also a supermarket en route, soon after arriving on Benbecula.

The fifth stage ends after the route has arrived on North Uist. There is a campsite - with pods available for those not staying in a tent - by the route, or you could arrange pickup, perhaps from nearby Carinish.

The following stage ends on the edge of Lochmaddy, and is 1km from the centre of this, the island capital, which has a shop, hotel and other accommodation.

The seventh stage ends at the ferry terminal immediately after reaching Berneray - you could either detour to the hostel, shop, cafe and/or guest houses on the island, or cross the ferry to Leverburgh - the start of the next stage - which has a shop as well as more accommodation, and a seasonal food van.

Seilebost has no facilities en route, although a guest house is reachable with a detour. The alternative is to arrange pick up and drop off, perhaps from the same accommodation you used in Leverburgh.

Stage 9 passes the (seasonal) Bays Centre Cafe part way through, and ends at Tarbet, the capital of Harris. This has a local grocery shop, cafe, hotel and bed and breakfast accommodation.

Stock up in Tarbet, as stage 10 ends at the tiny hamlet of Scaladal. There is a guest house here, and hostel accommodation at the Scaladale centre.

Stage 11 ends in Balallan, a long settlement strung out along the road. There's a seasonal cafe in the village hall, and bed and breakfast accommodation nearby.

The route ends at Stornoway which is by far the largest settlement in the Western Isles - it has all shops and services, though note most are closed on Sundays.

BOOKS AND MAPS

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT

If doing the complete Hebridean Way as a single trip, it's easiest to use public transport to reach it. Oban - the ferry port which serves Barra - is linked by rail and bus to Glasgow; there's then a local bus to reach the start on Vatersay. The route ends at Stornoway on Lewis, from where the main ferry returns to the mainland at Ullapool, which itself has good bus links to Inverness. Inverness then has onward bus and rail links for your return.

There are also local buses reaching the start and end points of all stages. The route itself also includes two ferry journeys - across the Sound of Barra and the Sound of Harris.

Timetables for all the routes can be found on Traveline Scotland .

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Walking can be dangerous and all walkers must take personal responsibility for their own safety. You should always carry a backup means of navigation and not rely on a single phone, app or map. Walkhighlands strives to provide accurate information but cannot accept responsibility for changes, errors or omissions.

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Hebridean Odyssey

Treat yourself to this Railtrail tour offering the ultimate island-hopping experience in the Outer Hebrides and visiting an impressive eight islands. Discover an area of unspoilt natural beauty offering spectacular scenery, impressive mountain ranges, and miles of golden beaches.

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8 days from £1999

Thursday 6 June 2024

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS

Travel the glorious West Highland Line - "Railroad to the Isles"

Take a relaxing cruise on Loch Linnhe

Visit picture perfect Portree, the Capital of the Isle of Skye

Discover the Isle of Barra, considered by many to be the most beautiful little island in Britain

Stroll along unspoilt, white sandy beaches

See the beautiful Eriskay Ponies on the Isle of Eriskay

Glimpse whales, dolphins, and sea eagles as you cruise between outstanding island seascapes

Discover a birdwatcher's paradise and view amazing island wildlife

Learn about the Hebrides unique and fascinating history spanning back 5,000 years

Explore the Isle of Lewis and Isle of Harris with expert local guides

Journey through the Cairngorms enjoying wonderful Highland scenery

Also included in your Tour Fare:

Dinner every evening plus 2 packed lunches

Rail travel & seat reservations from your Home Station to Tour Base (Standard or First Class)

Services of experienced Railtrail Tour Manager

We spend our first night in Glasgow at the contemporary Radisson Blu Hotel ideally located close to the central railway station. Spend time admiring Glasgow's Charles Rennie Mackintosh architecture or explore the city using the 'Clockwork Orange', Glasgow's underground system, before our first dinner together this evening.

This morning we travel north on the stunning West Highland Line, admiring the watery landscapes of the Firth of Clyde and Gareloch. With scenery becoming ever more dramatic, we trundle beside Loch Long and skirt the 'bonnie banks' of Loch Lomond before climbing into the western Highlands. At Crianlarich, we continue northwards, over Rannoch Moor towards our destination of Fort William. In the afternoon we enjoy a relaxing cruise on Loch Linnhe - a lovely sea loch - looking out for seals and porpoises, diving birds, and perhaps a golden eagle. Following our cruise, we return to our Fort William hotel for dinner.

After breakfast we continue our journey enroute to the Isles by private coach. We travel via the Skye Bridge, Broadford, and over the famous Cuillin Hills to the capital Portree, where we enjoy free time for lunch. In the early afternoon we travel the shores of Loch Snizort to Uig for our ferry cruise to North Uist. Our journey to Benbecula takes us past numerous lochans and beautiful beaches before we arrive at the Dark Island Hotel, our base for the next two nights.

Today the island hopping begins by taking the causeway across to South Uist where the west coast is a continuous sandy beach and the east is dominated by mountainous peaks. We continue via a further causeway to the Isle of Eriskay. Eriskay is famous for the Eriskay Ponies and is also the real 'Whisky Galore' island. It was just off Eriskay, between Great Todday and Little Todday, that the S.S. Politician ran aground in 1941 with 50,000 cases of whisky aboard. The locals managed to save several hundred cases before the ship sank, providing them with a good supply of their 'Water of Life'. From here, enjoy the short ferry crossing to the Isle of Barra which is considered by many to be the most beautiful little island in Britain. Its tranquil beaches, distinctive culture where Gaelic is widely spoken, and ancient history make any visit to Barra a memorable one. A packed lunch is included today. Time allowing, we can venture across the causeway to stunning Vatersay, the most southerly inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides.

This morning we depart our hotel for our onward journey to North Uist via the Benbecula causeway. North Uist is a relatively flat island covered with peat bogs, low hills, and lochans. More than half the land is covered by water, making North Uist a birdwatcher's paradise. We take the morning ferry to the Isle of Harris and Lewis, a rugged landscape of moorland, deep-sea lochs, mountains, and a proud history. A packed lunch is included today, and we meet with an expert local guide to explore Harris before continuing northwards. We pass numerous unspoilt, white sandy beaches and some of the most breathtakingly beautiful scenery in the Western Isles to Lewis before we arrive at the capital Stornoway and our hotel for the next two nights.

Today we explore Lewis which is the most northerly island of the Hebrides and the largest island of the Outer Hebrides. Lewis has a history that goes back thousands of years and ancient stone circles and standing stones can be found everywhere. We learn about the dramatic landscape of Lewis on a full day tour in the company of our island guide, including the impressive standing stones of Callanish, a traditional thatched blackhouse settlement, and the ancient broch at Carloway, one of Scotland's best preserved defensive structures dating back 2,000 years.

We depart the Hebrides this morning by ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool before our spectacular journey through to Inverness. We have a little free time in Inverness before boarding our train to Stirling, journeying through the glorious Cairngorms. We stay at the Stirling Highland Hotel for one night, located close to the railway station.

We bid farewell to Stirling as we make our way homeward.

B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner

Radisson Blu Hotel, Glasgow

A contemporary hotel ideally located just opposite from the Central Railway Station. The modern bedrooms feature a flat-screen TV, free Wi-Fi, and tea/coffee making facilities. The hotel has a stylish restaurant and bar.

The Alexandra Hotel, Fort William

Situated in the heart of Fort William close to the railway station, this traditional 3-star Victorian hotel offers comfortable bedrooms with TV and radio, telephone, and hospitality tray. The hotel has a homely bar with an open fire and a spacious restaurant offering locally sourced dishes.

Dark Island Hotel, Benbecula

A comfortable 3-star hotel located on the South Island of Benbecula in a pleasant countryside location and just a short stroll from a tranquil beach where rare birds and wildlife can be seen. The bedrooms have a TV and tea/coffee making facilities. There is a traditional restaurant and bar.

Caberfeidh Hotel, Stornoway

Considered the best hotel in Stornoway, this comfortable 4-star hotel is situated in the heart of Lewis’ capital. The bedrooms are equipped with a TV, tea/coffee making facilities, and free Wi-Fi. The hotel has a bar and restaurant serving local produce and seafood.

Stirling Highland Hotel, Stirling

Just a short walk from Stirling Castle is the historic 4-star Highland Hotel. The hotel’s Scholars restaurant offers quality locally sourced food, and the comfortable bar is the perfect place to enjoy a wee dram! The leisure club, including swimming pool, is a great place to relax. Built in the 19 th century as the city’s High School, this characterful building still houses a working observatory in its roof.

*Please note : Some local and regional train services are Standard Class only, so First Class ticket holders will travel in standard class accommodation for these sections of journeys.

Join & Leave at Hotels £2,019

Single Room Supplement £300

£20 tour discount for holders of National Railcards

7 nights’ bed, breakfast & table d’hôte evening meal plus 2 packed lunches

Rail & coach travel, with transfers as described

All excursions & admissions as detailed

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Journeys around Britain by bus and train

Out in the Outer Hebrides

Saturday 22nd September 2018

I’ve been travelling by bus around the Outer Hebrides over the last few days. What an amazing bus adventure it’s been. Scenery to die for. Never mind Coastliner 840 across the North York Moors being voted Britain’s most scenic bus route – come up to the Isle of Lewis and Harris for some seriously stunning bus scenery. And as I found on Shetland, considering the extremely low population density throughout the islands, the bus network is pretty impressive. Many English and Welsh councils could learn a thing or two.

I last visited the Outer Hebrides as recently as May when I’d planned to travel from Castlebay in the extreme south, on the island of Barra, through to Stornoway in the north, on Lewis. The journey involves five connecting buses crossing four causeways and using two ferries taking around nine hours to complete, all in a day.

However I came a cropper just under half way as I’d failed to check the tide times for the ferry between North Uist and Harris. On around hundred days a year the ferry has to operate to an amended schedule because of low tides making it impossible to make connections for the through journey in one day. I’d inadvertently chosen one of those days and ended up spending the night stranded in Lochmaddy on North Uist (luckily finding a bed in the only hotel there) before catching the morning ferry across to Skye but vowing to return and make another attempt at the journey later in the year.

This time I decided to travel southbound and carefully checked not only the bus, ferry and tide times but also the variable times for the flight back to Glasgow from Barra airport where uniquely its beach runway means flight schedules are also dependent on tide times.

All seemed good for the third week in September and as I’d also received a number of recommendations for other interesting bus journeys on Lewis and Harris I decided to make a four day leisurely trip and soak up the true Outer Hebridean Western Isles experience.

As on Shetland there are a number of bus (and coach) operators involved in bus service provision and timetables are well planned by the Council to provide excellent connections to small isolated communities off the main roads from the ‘spine’ routes. The timetables are all online and while appearing fiendish at first due to all the connection options and different day/schoolday/seasonal variations, after a while you get the hang of them and appreciate the detail they contain.

What I missed most of all is a network map – it would have been so helpful to plan out each day’s trips. The rudimentary printed timetable booklets available in Stornoway have a basic map on the cover which would have been a godsend if available on line. Even more taxing is that place names are in English on the timetables but in Gaelic on OS maps.

All the bus routes are numbered with a W prefix presumably to denote the Western Isles.

Unlike Shetland there’s no integrated ticket or day rover ticket so it worked out quite expensive to make a number of journeys each day even though the fares obviously must be subsidised. The Travel Scotland smartcard seemed to be available but there was no information about this.

Stornoway is by far the largest town; indeed the only town, with a population of around 8,000. It has a five stance bus station and impressively a Travel Shop open six full days a week with a very friendly and helpful lady. There’s a waiting area inside too, and toilets ‘please pay 30p at the counter’.

Timetables are displayed in the Travel Centre window and there’s an electronic display showing scheduled departures but nothing on four of the five bus stops. There seems to be an aversion to using timetable cases all over the Outer Hebrides which is a great shame yet commendably bus stop plates show neatly placed route numbers even in the middle of nowhere. Bus shelters are very common but all are inevitably weather beaten and many are defaced with poster remains. They don’t look inviting at all.

There are two connecting services (W3 and W4) on some of the journeys. I sampled the W3 the following morning to the tiny community of Bosta on the west coast island of Bernera across the ‘Atlantic bridge’.

Evelyn the W3 bus driver was also a star and having pre-booked my return journey at 1215 from Bosta the previous day she duly came back just over an hour after dropping me and Elizabeth off and took just me back (stopping for photo opportunities along the way) to the connection with the W2 (meeting buses running in both directions) enabling me to return to Stornoway.

My next trip was heading south for a half an hour’s ride on the island’s main north-south spine route W10 as far as the road to Orinsay where it connects with a W9 serving small communities towards the east coast.

On the return journey (another one that needed pre-booking the previous day) I had to swap buses at a bit of an interchange point in the middle of nowhere so the right driver did the right school run and we duly picked up half a dozen primary school children dropping them off safely at the gate of their homes.

The driver told them I was a bus inspector from London who’d come to see how well they behaved on the bus (I played the part with gusto) and we had an uncharacteristically quiet journey for a school run! Another connection back at the main road on to a northbound W10 and it was back into Stornoway again.

Through return tickets are available for these connecting journeys and the next morning I was able to buy a single ticket to cover the full journey south on route W10 to Leverburgh and even break my journey two thirds of the way down at Tarbert.

I did this to try out the recommendation of taking the Friday only late morning trip to Hushinish and back on the W11. What a fantastic bus ride to this remote west coast beauty spot. Truly stunning scenery; lots of twists and turns on what is about a ten mile long no through road alongside mountains and lochs. And just me on board paying £3.20 return.

Bizarrely the road passes through the grounds of Amhuinsuidhe castle which is privately owned although the owner apparently lives in Switzerland. Another interesting sight off the coast is the island of Taransay where the BBC1 series Castaway 2000 was filmed that year and begat all the other reality TV programmes that followed, and launched Ben Fogle’s career. We even picked up a passenger for part of the journey back, but advisedly left another waiting in the bus shelter …

Tarbert is a bit of a node for buses and also has a well stocked Visitor Information Centre displaying timetables in the window, an area for buses (and their drivers) to congregate and a timetable case devoid of timetables bus shelter.

After lunch in Tarbert I caught the early afternoon school bus (schools finish early on Fridays necessitating different timetables – careful planning is needed) W12 to the east coast spot of Rhenigidale.

Another gorgeously stunning journey and only £3.80 return. We carried just four children home but picked up a passenger on the return journey who was connecting for the W10 northbound back to Stornoway.

Whereas I returned to Tarbert and used the rest of my through ticket back on the southbound W10 hugging the west coast with its beautiful sandy bays down to Leverburgh Pier and that tidal ferry to North Uist. Naturally there’s a handy connection to the ferry which takes precisely an hour to cross. It actually docks at the extreme south of the small island of Berneray.

It always impresses me how quickly Caledonian MacBrayne ferries turnaround getting vehicles on and off in just ten minutes.

It’s also impressive to see the bus connect at Leverburgh for northbound passengers ….

…. and for me heading south, within a couple of minutes of getting off the ferry, the bus arrived to take me for the short ride to my overnight stop at Lochmaddy.

That was after a quick bus change on route to ‘right end’ buses and drivers with their respective homes for the night.

My fourth and final day caught the W16/W17 spine route south from Lochmaddy on North Uist over the causeway to Benbecula another causeway to South Uist and one more causeway to the tiny island of Eriskay for the ferry to Barra.

It’s almost a two and a half hour bus ride and it has to be said the scenery is nowhere near as stunning as on Lewis and Harris, but plenty still to see including a bus change in Benbecula which happens on every journey (one bus company runs the southern bit and another the northern end).

The nail biting part was whether we’d run out of seats as when I boarded at Lochmaddy the sixteen seater was already well loaded with luggage as well as passengers.

These minibuses aren’t designed for holidaymakers with luggage and as we got more and more full with just one seat spare, luggage ended up on laps and blocking the gangway and doorway.

We made it in good time to Eriskay slipway giving me time to note another timetable-less bus stop but then finding a set of timetables posted behind the door in the ferry waiting room – not an obvious place to look when you come off the ferry!

A fairly swift 40 minute ferry crossing across to Barra with the added bonus of dolphins swimming alongside us and a shared taxi ride for the short journey to the nearby airport brought my Hebridean adventure to an end. Although the beach take off with Loganair is a fitting finale.

Finally if you’re inspired to also make the trip to these beautiful islands a few words of advice.

Allow contingency time for the flights to Barra or Stornoway. They’re very weather dependent and prone to delays. I allowed nearly three hours on my return flights to connect at Glasgow airport (where I’m writing this now) just to be on the safe side.

Check and recheck ferry times. Especially those affected by tides!

Get to bus stops early particularly for inbound connecting routes from the outlying areas. One bus ran 15 minutes early!

Don’t expect a bus ticket on every journey – one driver hadn’t even connected up his electronic ticket machine!

If you’re limited for time it’s better to explore more of Lewis and Harris than the southern islands (scenically speaking).

And finally finally a plea to the Council: please please produce a network bus map and introduce a day ticket available on all routes.

So that’s it, my flight down to Gatwick and home awaits and I’ll be back next Spring to complete those routes yet to be ridden.

Roger French 22 September 2018

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1. Nikolo-Ugreshskiy Monastery

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5. Chapel of Phenomena Image of St. Nicholas in Nikolo-Ugreshskiy Monastery

6. Temple of the Mother of God of All Who Sorrow Ugresh Nicholas Monastery

7. Monument to Dmitriy Donskoi

8. Peter and Paul Church in Ugresh Monastery of St. Nicholas

9. Cathedral of St. Nicholas

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22. Memorial of the Great Patriotic War

23. Monument-bust to academician B.P. Zhukov

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