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Broken oil drain plug

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Took my 1600 Nomad to the dealership for an oil change and some misc. maintenance. Bike is an 07 but only a little over 20,000 miles. The shop calls me and says my the threads in my oil drain hole broke. Not their fault just happens. They put a helacoil in it but it leaks. What do you think. Just an unfortunate accident. Nobody's fault? Also what is a proper repair? They suggest sealing up the drain and suction oil from filter hole in the future. That just seems wrong. Thanks for your advice, Paul  

The dealer will never take the blame for stripped threads. That being said if they installed a heli coil and its leaking, they don't know what they are doing. It's a easy install that a trained mechanic should be able to do. How do they suggest sealing it up?  

kawasaki vulcan voyager oil drain plug

Well who's fault is it? I would be p'oed,Had a car,got oil change at valvo,got home oil leakn out stripped plug,,,,,,went back and said u broke it u fix it,,,had new oil pan next day Not sayn their fault buttttttt  

They may say it was stripped before they tried removing it. Maybe it was over torqued the last time it was installed. They are both (the plug and the engine crankcase) made of different metals, so they do tend to get stuck and when they do they take the treads with them. I'm not saying this is what happened but you may have gotten lucky. Most garages will not pay for a stripped out thread or bolt.  

They charged me $80. for the leaky hele coil. I don't like it but I was willing to take the hit if it works. I just can't see me riding a leaker. And I wouldn't expect anyone to buy it from me like this. Right now to me it's just a boat anchor. I called and they said bring it back. It goes in Tuesday. Was looking for options on the repair. Is the hele coil the best option or can it be over drilled and a larger plug put in? I have turned a few wrenches in my time but not on motorcycles. I don't know if the bike has a drain pan that can be repaired or replaced. Or is it part of the motor case?  

kawasaki vulcan voyager oil drain plug

If they charged you for a repair they should make it good. Before you do anything else give the shop a chance to make it right. Stuff happens. That being said, I answered a post similar to this one just now and am wondering why they didn't just put an oversized self tapping plug in. The last one I bought was about $.60 that has been a year or 4 but still a lot cheaper and easier and a permanent fix.  

kawasaki vulcan voyager oil drain plug

The only reason for a stripped out drain plug thread is because somebody over-torqued the plug, either during this oil change or the previous oil change. The helicoil repair leaks because the mechanic didn't install it perpendicular to the spotface seating surface. There is no replaceable oil pan, the plug threads directly into the aluminum crankcase and replacing that would be thousands of dollars. The only way I can think of repairing this would be to machine the spotface perpendicular to the now crocked helicoil. You could also smear the threads and washer and plug with JB Weld and let it harden, and never remove the plug again. You can then use the oil screen plug to drain the oil (and clean the screen), this actually drains more oil out than through the plug. Tighten the screen plug to 20 nm, DON'T OVER TORQUE IT! If the same dealer that did this oil change also did it last time I'd be telling them where to stuff that $80 invoice...... just sayin.  

kawasaki vulcan voyager oil drain plug

I wouldn't accept that. They'd have to replace that crankcase then. Any civil court in the country would back you on this, I'd bet. Screw 'em. They broke it, they fix it.  

Update. I got my Nomad back today. They say they put a different washer on the drain bolt. So far so good. Thanks for the feed back. Feels good to be back on it. I've been riding the wife's 900. Nice bike but not a 1600.  

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Oil Change Kit: Vulcan® S / Ninja® 650 / Z650 / Versys® 650 detail photo 1

Oil Change Kit: Vulcan ® S / Ninja ® 650 / Z650 / Versys ® 650

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Oil drain plug leak

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I overtightened my oil drain plug because of a cheap torque wrench, I must have dished or mushroomed the washer, now there is a tiny leak, maybe 3 drops a day. If I just replace the washer (which I bought from my dealer), will the leak go away and can I just snug it tight without a torque wrench, how tight should I go just by feel, thanks, Doc.  

Doc2003Cobra said: I overtightened my oil drain plug because of a cheap torque wrench, I must have dished or mushroomed the washer, now there is a tiny leak, maybe 3 drops a day. If I just replace the washer (which I bought from my dealer), will the leak go away and can I just snug it tight without a torque wrench, how tight should I go just by feel, thanks, Doc. Click to expand...

Like Sgt, I have never used a torque wrench on a plug. Some good old fashioned german specs, gute and tight will do it. Check you drain plug when you have it out for marring or cracks.  

i always tighten mine "just enough" ! hehe  

or you can just go to autozone and get a self tapping oil drain plug for around 3 bucks. works great. i want to say it is a 12mm 1.75 pitch. just replaced mine.  

staff said: or you can just go to autozone and get a self tapping oil drain plug for around 3 bucks. works great. i want to say it is a 12mm 1.75 pitch. just replaced mine. Click to expand...

Replace the gasket and tighten without a torque wrench. I always go with one grunt and a fart, that seems to work fine. :smile:  

For an additional option, you can put a wrap or two of Teflon tape on the threads of the drain plug and tighten it up. Drain plugs have no load to cause them to loosen so a smidge past finger tight is enough. Same goes for the oil filter and the oil screen. Also be sure to wipe the surface of contact of the drain plug and washer. You should feel or hear any gritty sounds during the tightening process provided you have adequately cleaned the surfaces.  

Correction: you should NOT feel or hear any gritty sounds....!!!!  

bluestringer said: Replace the gasket and tighten without a torque wrench. I always go with one grunt and a fart, that seems to work fine. :smile: Click to expand...

Dripping again! I just replaced today the washer and tightened without torque wrench. The plug is definitely not stripped but it is dripping again. Should I tighten it even more thanks, Doc. :-?  

Doc2003Cobra said: I just replaced today the washer and tightened without torque wrench. The plug is definitely not stripped but it is dripping again. Should I tighten it even more thanks, Doc. :-? Click to expand...

Where do you get a self tapping oil drain plug, does Kawasaki carry that such item?  

Doc2003Cobra said: Where do you get a self tapping oil drain plug, does Kawasaki carry that such item? Click to expand...

Can you explain how the self tapping drain plug is different from the stock one. I sure don't want to replace the crankcase (is that just one flat part that bolts on, or is it a bigger piece, what would be the price of that part plus install), I would rather avoid that if possible but if the damage is too great, I just want to do the right thing, thanks a lot for the great help, Doc.  

Actually, I don't think that bolt size is correct, the mm size is 17, I just checked it but don't know what the tread is. Just called Kawasaki and they can't tell me the thread pitch.  

Doc2003Cobra said: Can you explain how the self tapping drain plug is different from the stock one. I sure don't want to replace the crankcase (is that just one flat part that bolts on, or is it a bigger piece, what would be the price of that part plus install), I would rather avoid that if possible but if the damage is too great, I just want to do the right thing, thanks a lot for the great help, Doc. Click to expand...

Just called Kawasaki and they can't tell me the thread pitch.  

Doc2003Cobra said: Just called Kawasaki and they can't tell me the thread pitch. Click to expand...

Thanks much for the help Sgt Mike!!  

You could also use a helicoil...used one on a Toyota brake mounting bolt and it worked like a charm.  

like t man said it would not hurt to try teflon tape it is used all the time on hydraulic lines to seal them  

Ok, just got a 12 x 1.75, threaded in very nicely, not too tight not too loose, tightened firm and a bit more, don't want to strip again, guess what, it's still dripping at the same rate, is there something I can apply to the treads resistant to heat to stop this **** leak, I'm getting frustrated.  

Doc2003Cobra said: Ok, just got a 12 x 1.75, threaded in very nicely, not too tight not too loose, tightened firm and a bit more, don't want to strip again, guess what, it's still dripping at the same rate, is there something I can apply to the treads resistant to heat to stop this **** leak, I'm getting frustrated. Click to expand...

Darn, now 6 hours later, it has leaked out on the ground around an eighth of a quart. Just tightened it a little more, my worst fears may be coming true, I hope the crankcase isn't cracked, can't imagine torquing enough to strip the threads would crack the case also. I will do more investigation tomorrow, wonder what the cost will be to replace that and the part. I think I'm screwed.  

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kawasaki vulcan voyager oil drain plug

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