travel trailer broken frame

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Travel Trailer Broken Frame Guide: What To Do and How To Fix

• February 15, 2022 /
• RVing 101 /
• By James V. /

It doesn’t matter where it is or how small, there will be an accident from time to time. Whether they are inside your RV or when you are on the road, accidents will happen. The worst accident you could have would be one that breaks your travel trailer frame.

The first thing you need to do is find out where the break is and how serious it is. The second thing you should do is call a welder. A welder can easily repair most breaks as long as the break is reparable . If you are on the road, you may have to call a tow truck to help you out.

To learn more about this problem and how to fix it, just continue to read our article. It has the information you want to know about when you are caught in this predicament. Take a few moments to see how this information can help you and get you back on the road again.

How Common is a Broken Frame?

Usually, travel trailer frames are quite sturdy. But with time, travel, bumpy roads, and the elements, they can wear down and soon you may have cracks or a break in the frame. These may be more common than is reported as not everyone that has a broken frame is involved in an accident.

In a list of common travel trailer problems, a broken frame does not even come close to being listed or even close to the honorable mention category. You would have other common problems like roof damage, tire failure, plumbing issues, and weight and balance issues to mention only a few.

Some people list backing up or coupling the tow vehicle to the trailer as a more common problem and not even think about a broken frame. This problem does take place. The good news is that most breaks or cracks can be repaired quite quickly.

All it takes is a skilled welder and the frame is as good as new. They say that welding steel together makes the metal stronger than when it was in one complete piece. That should give you a little peace of mind when you are facing this issue.

How Do I Know If My Camper Frame is Bent?

In some cases, you do not have to look very hard or far to see that you have a bent frame. If you are in an accident, it should be pretty visible that the frame is bent and that is because you have a bent floor at the same point.

This happened to one owner right behind the wheel but before his rear door. Insurance should cover the problem but what happens in many cases is that the insurance company declares it non-repairable and totals out the trailer.

Other times, you have to search long and hard to find the crack or the break. Doing regular checks of the frame is essential especially when you travel down some very rough roads is vital.

This makes sure that you have no surprises when you are away from home. In this case, a good welder can have the crack or break fixed the same day. That makes it very convenient when you are on the road and not sure how you will get home.

If a welder isn’t handy, you should contact a good frame shop. They should be able to straighten out the problem for you.

Frame Damage And What To Do

There are not too many options you have at your disposal if you are not an expert welder. The first has been mentioned a couple of times already and that is to contact a good welder. But this option only works if the frame is cracked or broken. It doesn’t help much if the frame is bent but still in one piece.

The second option is to contact a frame shop that has experience in these heavy-duty travel trailer frames. They should have the right solution because they have the experience and expertise in these situations.

An auto body shop does work with frames but they may not have experience in the heavier duty frames placed on travel trailers. You would have to talk to them to see what they can do for you or if they are even willing to try.

If you suspect a bent frame you should look for some of the more common signs. Components may not fit together very well, the wheel alignment is off and you have unusual wear on your suspension and shocks.

Not all bends are easy to spot as the bend or break can come at any point depending on where the stress force was focused.

Will My RV Insurance Cover a Cracked Frame?

This will depend on your insurance company and its policies. In some cases, that should not be a problem. The crack, break, or bend is not so severe that it will not cost a lot to fix the problem. Your insurance agent should be able to advise you on this issue.

However, there will be cases where the cost to repair the frame exceeds the salvage value and that index will have the insurance company totally the trailer. When it is too expensive to fix, the insurance company won’t pay for the repair.

They will just pay out what your insurance coverage calls for and send the trailer off to the junkyard. Again, your insurance agent will have to explain all the details to you. Different insurance companies have different rules and different criteria to make the determination.

There will be times when they will let a frame shop or welder sister in a piece of new frame making the trailer usable again. However, it all boils down to cost it is all about the money involved and not whether the trailer is still useful or not.

Believe it or not, it doesn’t take much damage for the insurance companies to total the trailer or vehicle. They will find an excuse to do it even if you think you can have it fixed.

How To Repair a Broken Trailer Frame

When it happens to you, hope that your trailer is still under warranty. That way the maker of the trailer will bear the brunt of the repair costs and not you. There are several ways for the frame to break and often it is due to shoddy craftsmanship at the manufacturer.

Sometimes it may be a hassle to get the manufacturer to repair the damage but some companies will stand behind their product and fix the errors at no cost to you. So the first step in this process is to contact the manufacturer of the trailer or the frame.

Talk to them and see what they will or will not do. You may have to somehow drive the trailer to their main location to get them to look at it but the trip may be worth it. If the manufacturer won’t fix it or it is not under warranty, your best bet is to get an experienced frame mechanic to look at the problem.

There will be different fixes for different types of damage. One is welding the cracks together so they do not cause even more damage. If it is a break and it is not too severe or the pieces are not bent, welding may be your only option. or you can have the frame shop sister in a frame piece to shoulder the weight.

We cannot be any more specific than that simply because the experience frame mechanics or welders have to see the damage and decide what can be done. Their experience and knowledge will be the best guide you can have at this time.

What Are Travel Trailer Frames Made Of?

According to Jayco, there are different alloys and metals used to make the frames for their different classes of trailers. For example, their lightweight trailers get a low alloy steel product that reduces weight but does not reduce any of the strength.

For their travel trailers, Jayco uses structural steel that is molded into one piece. Their 5th wheel trailers seem to use the same structural steel as the travel trailer but with different innovations to make them more solid.

Other companies may use aluminum as their frame material and heartland is one such company. Airstream is another and that is to be expected. Aluma lite and Livin lite are two more trailer brands that use an all-aluminum frame.

Other RV makers use aluminum for their frames. The best thing to do is pick the trailer you are interested in contact the company and ask them. Sometimes the frame material is listed in the specs in the brochures or on the different web pages of the different companies.

Can You Weld on a Travel Trailer Frame?

Yes, you can weld on a travel trailer frame. That is one of the best ways to get the frame fixed and back to being road-worthy. Even if the frame is broken, it is still possible to weld it back together and use the trailer for many more years.

This goes for aluminum frames as well. A good welder will know how to fix those cracks or breaks on an aluminum frame. The key is to make sure they will do it for the right price.

There will be times when the trailer manufacturer will not weld the parts back together. They have their reasons why they won’t do it. But that refusal should not stop you from getting the crack or break fixed.

The drawback is the integrity of the metal. Sometimes you can fix on crack but a year later the same metal piece will break or crack again. Not at the new weld but somewhere close by. it all depends on the metal frame that is cracked or broken.

This is why you need to talk to an experienced welder or a good frame shop. They have the knowledge that will help you make the right decision when it comes to this type of repair.

How Do You Fix a Bent Trailer Frame?

This will depend on how severe the bend is. If it is a slight bend in the frame it should easily be fixed by a frame machine. Some body shops have these as would a good frame shop. Those machines can take out certain bends but not all of them.

There is a crude way of handling the bend if the bend is in the right location and not severe. Place the tongue of your trailer between the fork of a tree that is low to the ground. Then hook up your tow vehicle on the other end and pull the trailer till the bend is gone.

Make sure to use a strong chain when securing the trailer to the tree. But the best way to fix a bend in the frame is to leave it to the experts. They can tell you if the bend is fixable or not.

The last people you want to talk to is your insurance company as they will write off your trailer faster than you can blink. They are not always willing to spend money on a repair. Just keep in mind that not all bends are fixable.

Some Final Words

There will be times that you will find a crack in your frame. This can happen over time, with rough roads, and so on. The best way to fix a crack is to weld it. If you are an experienced welder then it should take you less than a day to repair depending on the crack and its location.

If you are not an experienced welder, take it to someone who is or go to a frame shop to have them handle the repair.

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What should I do if my frame breaks?

Rvers have been experiencing frame failures. if you suspect one, here's what you should do..

Complaints of trailer frame failures have been circulating online recently, and I wanted to take a moment to address frame failures and what you can do to minimize damage. I want to allay your fears; most frame failures are not the end of the world or your RV’s life, but they certainly can bring your travels to a halt.

Unfortunately, structural damage to the body can result from a frame failure, complicating the repair. Seldom does an RV completely break apart or disintegrate from a frame failure; signs of damage begin to show themselves over time before that happens.

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Sadly, frame failures are nothing new. I experienced a saddle frame failure on a new Class A gas motorhome in 2001, which effectively destroyed the unit. The first signs of failure were generator fuel and hydraulic line damage. The cabinets started falling off the walls, and the basement compartments twisted. Upon closer examination, it was found that the saddle frame had not been welded or designed correctly and was missing structural members.

In 2015, the dealership where I was the service manager received a travel trailer from Ohio off the Massachusetts Turnpike. One of the tires blew apart, wrapped around the rear door-side spring hangar, and ripped it and a chunk of the frame section off. The customer returned to Ohio, leaving the trailer in the care of the insurance company and us. In this case, we were able to source a new chassis from Indiana and we re-chassied the trailer. We also had a fifth wheel with frame flex issues that was replaced for the customer.

Frame issues on specialty vehicles are nothing new.

Fast-forward to 2023, and folks are experiencing cracks on travel trailers and fifth-wheel underpinnings. Why? Let’s look at some possible causes and solutions and what you should do if you have one.

Frame Failure Causes

First, almost all current model-year RV trailer frames are manufactured by Lippert and BAL, whereas motorhome subframes are built by motorhome manufacturers or companies like MorRyde . RV trailer frames are made to specification under contract. When an RV company designs an RV, they also design the frame and send the specs to the chassis manufacturer who builds it. Note that the frame manufacturer sources the steel and builds the product as stated in the contract, and often, the frame is laid out for a specific floor plan. These frame manufacturers deliver what is ordered and have no control over what happens to the frame or how the RV company uses it.

Further, a subassembly manufacturer or assembler always hopes the material they buy is of expected quality. Without getting into the engineering weeds (sorry, metallurgists), they order steel of sufficient strength to perform what they are building. In most cases, engineering calculations should provide some buffer for momentary external stresses.

So, we have at least two possible opportunities for errors. First, the RV manufacturer under-specs the frame (the lighter, the better), and the steel has issues from the steel supplier. It could be argued that under-designing the frame is just about money savings. While that may be a part of the overall equation, as I have said before, an RV is a system. RVers like more space and amenities, and the RVs must stay within certain weight limits for legal and safe towing. So, the more places that weight (mass) can be saved, the bigger RV they can build and have more stuff in it.

Second, steel is imperfect. The cheaper the steel, the higher the possibility of occlusions that cause failure.

I spoke to RV owner and former metallurgical engineer Tom Dougherty about his thoughts on these issues. Tom follows several RV-related blogs and has also seen posts and comments regarding various frame failures.  I shared some images with him for discussion, and the cracked frame from the Nomad RV Detailer (above) generated some interesting conversation.  He noted that, although this did not appear to be a weld fracture, “the nature of the welding process can sometimes change the physical properties of the metal adjacent to the weld.  Depending on the conditions and type of material being welded, this could conceivably soften the metal and locally reduce its strength.  It could also potentially embrittle the metal which could also adversely affect the performance of the joint.  To determine if either was a factor would require micrographic analysis.  But, just from a visual perspective, you’ve got two structural members coming together in an area where there will be a stress concentration from the weight moments it is subjected to.  If that repeated loading/unloading cycle is sufficient to instigate a crack, that crack is likely to spread.”

Dougherty noted in passing that many automotive industry manufacturers use high-strength, low-alloy (HSLA) steels in structural applications.  These steels allow light-weighting of components while still maintaining strength requirements.  HSLA steels also have corrosion resistance advantages, he says.

Of course, there are quality issues. Mistakes happen, and that is unavoidable. Quality control is about inspecting products at each stage of the manufacturing process. I know that the RV manufacturers are working on improving that as they can, but there are holes in that, too, with workforce issues that every industry has to deal with. The frames, however, are naked when they leave their respective plant, so there should be no issues with welds, etc. when they ship. That’s easy to inspect.

Another cause, to be fair, is that RVers overload their RVs. It is a known fact, and the RV Safety and Education Foundation has studied this for years. They have weighed thousands of units and found all kinds of issues. While weight and balance in an RV may not be as critical as with a Boeing 737, I still think RVers, like commercial drivers, need to account for weight and balance. While this can be the subject of an entire book, RVers should at least weigh the RV and tow vehicle (or towed vehicle) when loaded at a three-platform scale (CAT Scale or similar) to get an idea of where they are. It is better to weigh by wheel position, but not every RVer can do that. It is better to have some data than no data. Much of what RVSEF saw on their data was that RVs might not have been entirely overloaded but were overloaded on one side or even one wheel position. A catastrophic RV wreck on I-81 in Pennsylvania in 2023 was caused by a blown front driver’s side tire. While many things can cause tire failures, overloading and underinflation are ones that we can control.

Whatever the causal human factor, other factors certainly play a part. Most notable are road conditions. The conditions on some interstate highways shake any vehicle to death, especially RVs. Potholes and other undulations can create tremendous stress on structural members. These bending moments can lead to fatigue, stress cracks, and tears over time. There doesn’t need to be a manufacturing defect for this to happen, but failures are more understandable when some or all of the above factors are combined.

Signs and Symptoms

Trailer frame failures can manifest themselves in many ways, some subtle, some not. Many frame failures are discovered while techs maintain suspension and brakes/bearings. An annual inspection of the running gear is an RVers right of passage and essential given the failures we’re seeing. But there are some things you can be looking for as you do your RV walk-around inspections.

Tire wear- Tires wearing very unevenly may be an alignment, balance, or inflation issue, but a frame issue can also cause it. Checking the spring hangars, frame webbing, and tire spacing can lead to a diagnosis.

Tire spacing between tandem axles is uneven.

The trailer or motorhome tracks crookedly down the road

Filon (fiberglass) cracks in the sidewalls. Sometimes, it is because of a weakness in the wall structure, especially around slide-out rooms. It can also be because of frame flex.

Shifted basement compartment doors on motorhomes. Similarly, the interior linings of basement compartments buckle and fail.

Loud creaks or bangs from the frame when walking in the unit or extending or retracting slide rooms. This is common with a separation of the trusses from the I beams or the welds for a through-frame slide mechanism.

Visibly bent or cracked steel structure. Some cracks are more evident than others, like horizontal cracks in frame webbing, etc.

5th wheel pin movement. Often, this also results in the movement of body side moldings, broken interior cabinets, wall/floor separation, etc.

What to do?

If you suspect a frame issue, do not drive the RV if possible. Common sense plays into this, but if you have any questions about the drivability of the unit, contact a professional for guidance. The manufacturer is often the best point of contact. A certified RV technician is also a good option. You need to have you and the RV in a safe place.

Frame flex and broken or cracked frames are two different things. Flex may indicate a broken frame, but it can also be from overloading or weakness that could lead to fracture. A broken frame is, as it sounds, where a crack or other fracture is confirmed.

If frame flex is a concern, stress measurements are taken to determine whether the flex is beyond spec or not. Remember that every structure, including RVs, needs to have *some* flex. Ever stand on a bridge with traffic going by or on the upper deck of a shopping mall when it’s busy? There’s movement. RVs will move and flex to a point. The key is that they don’t flex so much that the system begins to destroy itself.

Lippert’s guide for measuring frame flex on fifth wheels can be found on Redwood Owner’s site HERE . Note that this may be an old form, but it does provide at least a guide on measuring frame flex. If you think you have an issue, please contact your RV and/or frame manufacturer.

Mobile welders nationwide can do heavy structural welding and at least get the RV safe to transport for more permanent repairs. Often, it is best to disassemble the unit on-site to do the proper repair and get it on the road again.

A broken frame is not necessarily a death sentence for the RV. Much of it depends on how much structural damage is done because of the flex. The steel of the trailer frame can be repaired and strengthened in most cases.

The difference with motorhomes

Class A motorhomes are a bit more complicated. The heavy truck chassis underneath the coach is seldom, if ever, a problem. Ford, Freightliner, and Spartan Motors do a standup job with their chassis rails. The issues I have seen are more tied to the saddle frame.

A motorhome manufacturer welds together a floor frame structure that sits over the chassis rails like a saddle. On many basement units, these frames hold the holding tanks, wiring, ducts, and basement compartments, among other components.

If the coach gets into a wreck, the saddle frame has to be scrutinized and, if shifted, may lead to the coach being totaled. It is lighter gauge steel welded together to form the structure, so some spots are weaker than others.

Signs of damage to this frame are similar to the trailer but seldom related to chassis frame issues. Instead, if the saddle starts to come apart, the body and floor will begin to show collapse and shifting damage. Doors may jam, cabinetry may fail, and floors may buckle.

The key to a good outcome is prevention. If there is a hidden flaw, there is nothing anyone can do until it surfaces. But maintenance and watching your weight and balance are huge in preventing a frame problem.

Weigh your RV when loaded for a trip, and reweigh when the loads have changed.

Do not exceed any of the weight and towing ratings of your vehicles.

Maintain your tires, wheels, brakes, and suspension. Tire inflation is vital for safety. Remember, a blown tire is capable of causing severe frame damage. Have the chassis professionally inspected and serviced at least annually or as the manufacturer prescribes.

Keep the frame clean and painted. Severe rust weakens the frame. Also, cleaning and touching up the paint on the frame will reveal small cracks or issues before they become major. Consider grinding or sandblasting a badly rusted frame and then treating and painting with a product line like POR-15.

Be alert. Look at your vehicle before every trip during a walk around. Do it at truck stops or rest stops, too. Just quick ones, but look for things that may have changed.

Unfortunately, as Tom Dougherty points out, there’s not much an RV owner can do to prevent the hidden failures. “I never really looked at my 5th wheel’s leaf springs, and it wasn't until the broken leaf springs were pointed out to me during a brake and suspension service that I even said, oh, yeah, I can see that. So I think the consumer is sort of a victim in all of this unless you've got a good inspection process where you take it in periodically and have somebody go over it and see if anything is starting to happen.”

Ready for more?

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Journey With Confidence

Why It’s Important To Check Your RV’s Frame

Keep your RV in good shape. Photo courtesy of U.S. Air Force (Marcus Hill)

Why It’s Important To Check Your RV’s Frame

I was recently sitting around the campfire while camping with some friends, and as it typically does, the conversation turned to RVs.

One friend mentioned that he had studied RVs at length before he purchased one himself. He had looked at RVs built by the same manufacturer as my travel trailer and discounted that manufacturer, as he didn’t like the way the A-frames on their travel trailers were designed, especially like my A-frame designed for travel trailers with higher clearance.

Having been in the RV industry for most of my life, I somewhat disregarded his opinion, as I could count on one hand the number of A-frame failures I had encountered in over forty years.

However, as I was doing some other work on the front of my trailer, his words came back to me and I decided to take a closer look. Sure enough, there were stress cracks where the A-frame met the first crossmember on the door side. I found the same thing when I examined the opposite side.

Cracked frame

Luckily, I know how to weld and have a welder (and a long extension cord) at home and was able to repair the trailer the same day as we had a trip planned the next day.

As I pointed out a while back when my entry door lock failed , my wife and I log considerably more miles than the average RVer. In addition, we like to boondock, which puts us on rougher roads than most RVers are comfortable with, so the chances of this happening to your travel trailer is much less likely.

However, it emphasizes the fact in being diligent and checking your frame along with other items that we seldom check, but ought to, like lug nuts, spare tire pressure, water heater anode (out of sight, out of mind type things), etc.

This is not a one-size-fits-all solution type of repair. If you find signs of failure with your RV’s frame, I highly recommend you take it to a certified frame shop.

Keep track of your maintenance

There is a lot to keep track of  when it comes to RV maintenance, and it’s not easy keeping everything nicely organized and readily accessible. That’s where  RV LIFE Maintenance  comes in handy.

RV LIFE Maintenance makes it easier than ever to track your RV maintenance and fuel economy, organize documentation, and find out what needs to be done next. You can even receive email alerts for timely reminders when tasks will need to be done soon. 

Whether you have a small trailer or large Class A motorhome, RV LIFE Maintenance can keep track of it all, along with up to two other vehicles, such as a tow car, motorcycle, or four-wheeler.  Learn more on MaintainMyRV.com .

See also: 2 Things You Need To Know About RV Door Locks

Ask The RV Engineer

How to paint a rusted rv travel trailer frame.

I may sound like a broken record, but I’ll say it again: Don’t treat your RV like you treat your car.

You can drive a Honda CRV for 16 years and 260,000 miles, never paint the underbody, endure harsh northeastern winters, never go through a carwash – and not even get a pinhole leak in the exhaust pipe.

(Just look in my garage for all the proof you need).

If you put that many miles on your travel trailer without attending to the underbody and frame, I’d wager a wheel or two would fall off.

More than one new RV owner has felt the piercing pain of peeking under a 7-month-old RV to find a rusty, ochre steel frame and peeling, faded paint.

Ouch. Who’s to blame??

Is RV Frame Rust Covered Under Warranty?

Regrettably, trailer frame rust is often NOT covered under the standard RV warranty.

• Your dealer will blame the manufacturer for using shoddy materials.
• Your manufacturer will blame the dealer for not washing off the road salts when the RV first arrived at the dealership.
• Or your manufacturer might blame Lippert or Norco/BAL as the “3rd party supplier.”

It’s really frustrating, isn’t it? Even if frame rust is covered by the warranty, many RV warranties are only one year long. You might have no option but to fix it yourself.

If you’re wondering how to repaint and repair a rusty travel trailer frame, you’ve found the right guide!

(Or better yet, how to undercoat an RV for semi-permanent protection!)

In addition to being an RV engineer, I’ve restored a handful of utility trailers. Painting a chassis frame isn’t necessarily difficult, but it is a lot of sweaty, dusty work. I hope to set you off in the right direction so you don’t waste time.

Why Do RV Trailer Frames Rust So Quickly?

Everyone knows water, either rain or humidity, will rust steel. It’s a chemical process called oxidation.

Rust is the steel’s way of protecting itself from further damage. Unfortunately, rust is usually loose and flaky, so it doesn’t do a very good job. Mother Nature wins eventually!

Fun fact: There are steel alloys, called weathering steel or Cor-Ten steel, which develop a much stronger, more durable layer of rust for long-lasting protection. Weathering steel is often used on bridges and architectural elements. It doesn’t have to be painted.

Salt accelerates the rusting process because it dissolves in water to form an electrolytic solution (sorry for the big words!). As you may remember from my geek’s guide to your RV battery, an electrolyte is how a battery transfers electrons from cathode to anode –

Well, we’re getting too technical here. You already know the result: Salt kills steel. That’s one reason winter driving can be so hard on your RV.

And the only thing standing in the way of your frame and total environmental annihilation is: The paint!

How Are RV Frames Finished From the Factory?

There are four basic methods to finish an RV chassis frame:

• Powder-coated

There’s nothing inherently wrong with any of these methods! They all have their pros and cons.

• Galvanizing is arguably the most durable, but it’s the most difficult to weld onto.
• Painting can provide excellent performance, but it requires skilled labor and careful cleaning.
• Powder-coating has excellent abrasion resistance, but touchup is finicky.
• E-coating gives great coverage, but the film is incredibly thin – generally no more than 1-2 thousandths of an inch!

Many of these methods work best when the entire frame, not just individual parts, are dipped/spray/baked.

The most popular method (by far) is e-coating. That’s how Lippert and BAL finish most of their RV frames.

And … Here’s where we have to get uncomfortably honest.

It’s no secret that travel trailer frames have the worst reputation for rusting of any RV type. That’s because they’re typically built to the lowest price point.

In contrast, luxury 5th wheels and motorhomes may have the frame coated with a heavy rubberized undercoat from day one!

It’s also no secret that Lippert builds the huge majority of the travel trailer frame s in the RV industry. And this B2B relationship is … complicated. Because Lippert will shrug and say, “We build to the manufacturer’s specs.”

But the manufacturer will protest, “It’s not our job to specify minimum e-coating thicknesses! And Lippert leverages its monopolistic power to herd all its vendors to the same price point, same design, and same quality finish so that they can quickly fulfill orders.”

(And we haven’t even talked about the dealer, who really should wash off those road salts before letting the trailer sit outside for 8 months!)

Like I said, it’s complicated. Even if you purchase from a smaller manufacturer, you’re not always guaranteed top-tier quality.

Most “job shop” manufacturers don’t have access to the huge vats or ovens required for full-chassis e-coating or powder-coating. So they paint. And there’s a huge difference in quality between a rattle-can acrylic and 2-part catalyzed urethane.

There’s also a huge difference in film thickness consistency between a painter with 20 years’ experience vs. a rookie who leaves runs and overspray and forgets to prime the welds.

Plus, you’ve probably heard the saying “paint is only as good as the prep.” Unless the frame is carefully sandblasted or acid-washed (and don’t forget about degreasing and priming the welds!), then the topcoat won’t hold up.

So for one reason or another, most travel trailer or 5th wheel frames will require paint touchup in order to last 10+ years without severe rust.

Not saying motorhomes are exempt from poor paint jobs. But as a rule, factory-finished chassis from Ford, Ram, Mercedes-Benz, Freightliner, Spartan, and other chassis manufacturers tend to last much, much longer.

How to Prevent Rust on an RV Chassis Frame

Get ahead of the game. As the old saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

I don’t agree with the claim that “surface rust is nothing to worry about.”

While it is true that surface rust doesn’t structurally weaken the metal, it’s visual proof that your frame is naked and unprotected. And any rusty areas will blossom as water peels off the surrounding metal.

Wash Your RV Underbody

At a bare minimum, wash the underside of your RV after every trip, especially after driving in the winter, or before going into storage.

Undercoat Your New Camper

Even better, go undercoat your camper! Right now! Don’t wait for rust spots to start blossoming! That’ll just weaken the bond between the undercoat and the frame.

If you’re serious about preventing rust on your RV frame for the lifespan of the RV, you should undercoat your RV first thing.

This is a dirty, messy job that you’ll probably pay someone else to do. Doing it yourself with an aerosol undercoating spray is expensive and unhealthy.

If you’re dead set on doing it yourself, though, or if you only need to coat a small area, you can go with 3M Professional Grade Black Rubberized Undercoating or Rustoleum Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating.

Don’t buy some no-name knockoff cheap undercoating products. These chemical concoctions are often 30% solvents or more by weight. They’ll shrink, flake, and won’t stick to anything remotely dirty.

Genuine undercoating is quite thick (10-30 mils), 4-10x thicker than paint. You can get wax, asphalt, polyurethane, or rubber-based coatings. The good, thick stuff is usually applied with a disposable Shultz spray gun and should last the lifespan of your camper.

Use a Rust-Proofing Product

If you can’t afford a true undercoating, go for a rust-proofing spray (aka rust inhibitors, corrosion protectants).These sprays (some are brush-applied liquids) are usually a grease, wax, or oil. They form a sacrificial layer and will slowly wear off over time.

One of the most popular rust inhibitors is called Fluid Film.

Most rust inhibitor products should be reapplied every 1-3 years. If you travel in the winter, you’ll need to reapply more often. They absolutely do work, but they’ll require more maintenance than a permanent undercoating.

How to Repaint a Rusty Travel Trailer Frame?

If you didn’t take my ^advice, you’re likely now facing a rusty trailer frame after a few years of ownership, possibly with deep flaking or pitting.

How to repair a rusted trailer frame is simple, but not necessarily easy. It’s a 5-step process.*

• Remove loose rust
• Convert hardened rust
• Tape and protect the work area
• Clean, prep, and prime the metal
• Apply the topcoat

*And this assumes the metal is worth saving. Considering that many RV chassis components are made with 14-gauge steel (0.080 inches thick), it doesn’t take much rust to ruin a part!

1. Remove Loose Rust

In theory, this is where you bust out your sandblaster and return the frame to bare metal, but seeing as that’s unlikely …

You’ll need a stiff wire brush, a wire brush drill attachment, or an angle grinder with an abrasive flapper disc. Don’t waste time with steel wool or a toothbrush or anything like that.

I vote for the angle grinder. You’ll save boatloads of time.

At a minimum, you’ll need to remove all loose, flaky, or peeling rust. No exceptions.

If you’re willing to grind the rust off down to bare metal, that’s good too, but not always necessary. And some primers designed to work on rusty metal don’t work on bare metal and vice versa.

2. Convert the Hardened Rust

If you have a deeply rusted frame, don’t skip this part!

You need to neutralize, convert, and seal the rust. You need to use a product like Eastwood Rust Converter, POR-15, or Rustoleum Rust Reformer that chemically converts the remaining rust into a more durable, non-rusting surface.

If you cheap out on a rust converter, at least prime any rusty areas with a metal primer designed for maximum adhesion.

3. Tape the Area/Protect Yourself!

Use painter’s tape, cling firm, and tarps to protect the RV underbody and your work floor from damage. My favorite painter’s tape is Frog tape.

Pay attention to your own PPE. Don’t get nasty paints and primers all over your skin. Wear long sleeves, work in a well-ventilated area, and wear a NIOSH respirator to protect your lungs from solvents.

4. Clean and Prep the Metal Surfaces

90 percent of painting is prep work! You’ll need to thoroughly clean any part of the chassis that will be painted.

Start with a degreaser to remove road grime and film protectants. Clean that up with mild soap and water. Then rinse with just water – and immediately wipe dry to prevent flash rusting!

Pay particular attention to welds. Welds are often the first areas on a frame to start rusting if they weren’t properly prepped at the factory.

If you’re painting bare metal, you should apply an acid-etching primer to the bare metal.

If 90 percent of the paint is still in good shape, you might not need to do anything more than scuff it up with a power sander and 180- to 300-grit sandpaper. Scuffing the paint will promote adhesion.

5. Start Painting!

Now the fun begins! Apply your chosen topcoat to the cleaned, primed surface. Work in thin, even coats. Give adequate time to dry.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions! You can’t cheat chemistry. If the instructions say to wait 8 hours but no more than 24 hours, you do that, d*mmit!

Stay Away from Aerosol Cans!

Don’t use a rattle can for anything except touch-up and hard-to-reach spots. The coats look good, but they’re super thin. And you can’t overspray a coat without trapping solvents and creating runs. You need at least 5-6 coats for decent coverage.

Apply a Primer Coat

Even combination paints+primers will normally benefit from a dedicated primer coat.

• If you used POR-15, you should use a POR-15 recommended topcoat, such as their enamel Top Coat or 2K Urethane products.
• If you sanded down to bare metal, you might use a DTM (direct-to-metal) 2k epoxy primer like Eastwood Epoxy Primer and catalyst.
• If you’re short on cash but still want to do the job right, you might use good ol’ Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal or Clean Metal primer.

Finish with the Top Coat

Most primers and rust converters aren’t UV-resistant, so they need to be protected by a topcoat.

Option 1: Farm and Tractor Paint

If you’re a good-enough-is-perfect type of person, you can’t go wrong with tractor paint! Get some Rustoleum Farm and Implement or Valspar Tractor and Implement paint. This stuff is relatively cheap, thick, durable, and goes on smoothly. For the price, it seriously can’t be beat.

If you can’t pick up tractor paint at your local Tractor Supply or Orschelen’s, you can also get by with a general-purpose metal topcoat Rust-Oleum Professional Grade Protective Metal Enamel.

Option 2: Top-Tier Topcoats

But if you’re a perfect-is-good-enough type of person – well, then honestly, I recommend taking your RV to a professional painter. Most top-dollar topcoats are designed to be catalyzed with a hardener and then applied with a spray gun and HVLP system. Not something most people have in their garage!

With that said, there are several high-quality, industrial-grade topcoats available to the homeowner, such as POR-15 2k Urethane or Eastwood Extreme Chassis.

There are many other topcoats on the market. I’m not a professional painter myself, so feel free to contact your local PPG or Sherwin Williams rep and see what they recommend!

With that said, please remember this is an RV, not an offshore oil derrick. Don’t over-complicate things! There’s no sense in painting a Jayco Jay Feather so the chassis lasts for 75 years – nothing else will!

So, that’s how you paint an RV frame.

If it sounds like a lot of work, it is. That’s why I recommend undercoating your RV before rust ever has a chance to rear its ugly head. Or at least apply a seasonal rust inhibitor like Fluid Film.

“Out of sight, out of mind” is terrible advice for maintaining an RV frame. To keep your chassis frame in tip-top condition, you need to annually inspect and repair any signs of rusting. Otherwise, you’ll be back at this article again, wire brush in hand.

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Guiding Adventurous Souls Through RV Life

How Can I Tell If My RV Frame Is Bent?

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Last Updated on April 14, 2023 by Jessica Lauren Vine

Are you asking, “How can I tell if my RV frame is bent?”

Whether you have a motorhome or a travel trailer, there are few things more inconvenient than a bent frame. RV frames are very strong and durable, but they’re only designed to withstand certain amounts of weight and pressure. RV frames don’t bend often or easily, but it’s important to notice right away when they do. 

The best way to tell if your RV frame is bent is with a visual inspection and with a tape measure. Start by taking a lap around your RV and looking for any bends or twists in the frame. Next, use a tape measure and measure from the ground to the bottom of the frame in various places along the length of the camper. All your measurements should be within ¼” to ½” of each other. 

Bent frames are a big deal when it comes to RVs. It can severely reduce the smoothness of your travels and cause issues to the rest of the RV. Regularly inspecting your RV is a big part of travel trailer or motorhome maintenance, and it should be at the top of your list. 

Table of Contents

How to Tell if Your RV Frame Is Straight or Bent 

When it comes to knowing if your RV frame is bent or straight, it’s important not to overthink it. If you can easily see a slight bow or dip in the frame of your travel trailer, it’s obviously bent. However, bends don’t always happen on the perimeter of your RV. They can also happen around the middle of the frame, which is probably where your living room, kitchen, and other internal rooms of the camper are located. 

These bends are harder to see from the outside looking in. To notice them, you’ll have to crawl under your camper with a tape measure and measure the distance of different parts of the frame to the ground. Another way you can tell if your frame is bent or straight is by walking around inside your camper. 

If you can feel the floor dip slightly lower in certain areas, it means that either your plywood floor or the entire frame is bent. 

To check the perimeter of your frame for bends, here’s what you need to do. 

• Park your RV on a concrete pad or drive that’s as level and flat as possible. 
• Use a tape measure to measure the distance from either end of the frame to the ground. 
• These measurements should be within ½” of each other. 
• Next, measure from the frame to the ground at various intervals along the frame. 
• Each measurement should be within ½” of the measurements from either end of the frame to the ground. 
• Subtle bends in your frame aren’t always easy to see with the naked eye. You may need a tape measurer to tell exactly where they are. 

Sings You Have a Bent Frame 

Apart from visual inspections and regularly measuring, there are other ways to tell if you have a bent frame or not. 

Alignment is Off 

If you have a motorhome, you’ll be able to tell if your frame is bent by how the vehicle is driving. If the alignment is off and it feels like the vehicle is pulling one way or another, it’s possible that the frame is bent. To test this theory, take your hands briefly off the wheel as you’re driving down a clear stretch of highway. If the RV turns slowly in either direction rather than going in a straight line, it’s a sign that the alignment is off either because of a bent frame or tire issues. 

Vehicle Pulls in a Certain Direction 

The same concept applies to a truck or car with which you’re pulling a travel trailer. The pull won’t be quite as obvious, but with major bends it can still happen. 

Things are Out of Whack 

Depending on how your RV was designed and built, it’s likely that various components of your RV are connected together from the floor to the ceiling. As a result, if your frame starts to bend, it will drag other things down with it. So, you might not notice a bend in the frame, but you’ll see that trim is pulling away from the ceiling or your camper door isn’t quite touching the floor like it usually does. 

The only way you’ll know if something’s out of whack, however, is by paying attention to your RV. 

Engine Issues 

Once again, with motorhomes, there’s a possibility that your engine will experience problems and make some funny noises if the frame is bent. The reason this happens is because some RVs have components attached from the frame to the engine. Therefore, if the frame is bent and pulling down slightly, it could pull components away from the engine and cause issues. 

Obvious Bends and Bows

Once again, the best and easiest way to tell if there are bends in your RV is by looking. In most cases, you’ll be able to detect major bends simply by looking at the frame of your RV and seeing that something isn’t lining up. If you have suspicions, then use the tape measurer technique to measure every part of your frame that’s in question. 

What Can Cause a Bent RV Frame? 

It’s important to understand that bends in RV frames usually develop over time. For example, you’re not going to bend the frame by accidentally dropping something heavy on your floor. You might ruin your floor, but it probably won’t be enough to damage your frame. 

The more likely reason for a bent frame is because of wear and tear over the years. If, for another example, you install a piece of non-factory furniture in your RV that’s noticeably heavier than anything else in your camper, there’s a chance it will bend your frame. This won’t happen immediately, but rather if you leave the heavy object sitting in the same spot for days, months, or years on end. 

It’s also possible to bend your RV frame based on the type of hitch and stabilizers you have. If you try backing up with a weight distribution hitch that doesn’t allow for driving in reverse, the sway bars may not pivot enough to make the turn. As a result, either your sway bars or the part of the frame they’re attached to could become damaged or bent. 

In general, however, your RV frame shouldn’t bend unless it’s of poor quality or wasn’t built properly. Travel trailer and motorhome frames are typically solidly built and capable of handling lots of weight. 

Can You Drive Your RV With a Bent Frame? 

When it comes to driving or towing your RV with a bent frame, it’s important to use common sense. In most cases, a small bend in the frame isn’t going to be enough to make your RV undriveable. It might pull or turn differently, but you should be able to drive just fine. 

For bigger, more obvious bends, however, driving will only make things worse. The only place you should be going is an RV repair shop or a mechanic, so they can repair or replace your frame. 

How to Straighten a Travel Trailer Frame

Straightening a travel trailer frame on your own is possible but very difficult. There’s a good chance that you won’t have the tools or materials on hand necessary to make the adjustment. However, if you have a heavy duty tire jack, an extremely strong chain, and understand how leverage works, you can use the weight of the trailer to force the bent portion back into place. 

Another option is to cut out the bent part of the frame and weld a new section in its place. In most cases, however, it’s best to contact the maker of your RV, explain to them what’s happening, and ask for advice. If your RV is still under warranty, they will honor it and replace or repair the damaged frame free of charge. 

Cost to Straighten a Trailer Frame

If your RV is no longer under warranty and you can’t straighten your bent frame on your own, it’s going to cost you a chunk of change to have it fixed. The exact cost depends on the extent of the damage and whether or not the frame is even fixable. You could be looking at anywhere from several hundred dollars to several thousand. 

How to Keep Your RV Frame From Bending

The best way to keep your RV frame from bending is by being smart and not putting too much weight or stress on any part of the RV. If there are areas that are suspicious and you think they’re at risk of bending, it’s a good idea to reinforce them with extra steel. As long as you’re smart with your RV and use common sense, your RV frame should stay bend free. 

Conclusion 

Bent RV frames are rare, but they can happen from time to time. It’s often because of a problem with the installation or design of the frame, but bends can also happen because of something you did. Either way, it’s important to check your frame regularly and make sure nothing is amiss. Bends are much easier and cheaper to fix when you catch them early than they are if they’ve been developing and worsening for a while. 

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• Mechanical & Technical Tips

Broken frame crossbeam?

By routlaw March 29 in Mechanical & Technical Tips

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Anyone ever run into something like this, photos below? Just returned from a trip to the SW and noticed this crossbeam at the rear of trailer broke loose from its weld joint. Thinking about bolting it back on instead of finding someone who can do aluminum welding. What do you guys think?

Legacy Elite II #70

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• Created Mar 29
• Last Reply Apr 12

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rideandfly 21 posts

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@MAX Burner After talking with @rideandfly I went out to the Ollie Hangar and rolled up under “XPLOR” and took a good hard look at ALL the frame/chassis welds. All appear to be solid. Like a

That would be me and it was about 8 months: Check your frame, any damage? Welds good? - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Something I found just aft

Mine had the two failures, yet every other weld was perfect, no other cracks at all. The purpose of my previous past was as the title suggests... "Check your frame, any damage? Welds good?" All OT

Posted Images

I can't see any photos.  Did you upload them?

Central Idaho

2022 Elite II

Tow Vehicle:  2019 Tundra Double Cab 4x4, 5.7L with tow package

I can't upload photos today. Anybody else?

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Geronimo John

I think a call to the mothership is in order ASAP.  

And would you please add a signature line so we all know you have hull 70 and other pertinent info.  It's the Pono thing to do brother!

TV :   2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:   2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.     OLLIE DIY’s:   Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.     TV DIY’s :  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

Sent you a private message with my email address. I cannot add photos to the forum by uploading at this time.

If you still can't post photos, you can email your photos to me, will post them using Smugmug. I also want to see your frame photos.

Test photo with Smugmug:

https://www.roboutlawphotography.com/oliver#1

Hey folks thanks for all the help and interest, try clicking on the link above which should provide two thumbnails you can use either your cursor keys or click on each image to view the next. Anyway this should give you a better idea of my cracked frame, it's not terrible at this point but bad enough. 

Thanks for the pics!

I assume that the tank was full - or nearly full?  What kind of roads were you on?

In either case - this should not have happened.

2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 " Twist "

Thanks for the photos!

mountainoliver

There was a forum posting a month or so ago concerning the exact same issue along with very similar photos. I copied and saved the photos but not who posted them. I’m assuming that this is a different owner/situation? If this is a new issue then yikes another epidemic to lookout for like springs!

2017 Elite II, Hull #208

2019 Chevy HD 2500 Duramax

8 minutes ago, mountainoliver said: There was a forum posting a month or so ago concerning the exact same issue along with very similar photos. I copied and saved the photos but not who posted them. I’m assuming that this is a different owner/situation? If this is a new issue then yikes another epidemic to lookout for like springs!

When I installed suspension wet pins and bronze bushings on another forum member's Legacy Elite a few years ago, found several welds cracked, not broken. He took his Ollie back to Oliver and they welded the cracked areas without any additional problems to my knowledge.

3 minutes ago, mountainoliver said: There was a forum posting a month or so ago concerning the exact same issue along with very similar photos. I copied and saved the photos but not who posted them. I’m assuming that this is a different owner/situation? If this is a new issue then yikes another epidemic to lookout for like springs!

That would be me and it was about 8 months:  Check your frame, any damage? Welds good? - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)

Something I found just after we purchased our used hull. I would not think to bolt this. Just find a welder that can work aluminum. We had two frame braces broken on the curbside. I found a local guy who runs a metal salvage yard and does metal artwork. He charged me $75 and I gave him $100 cash. Doesn't look as pretty as the original, but they have held. Make sure your trailer tires are below 50 PSI!

jd1923, yes I just went back and found your original post and was getting ready to post a screenshot of it. Okay then that makes two issues. Check your frames. 

4 minutes ago, mountainoliver said: jd1923, yes I just went back and found your original post and was getting ready to post a screenshot of it. Okay then that makes two issues. Check your frames. 

Mine had the two failures, yet every other weld was perfect, no other cracks at all. The purpose of my previous past was as the title suggests... "Check your frame, any damage? Welds good?" All OTT Owners should make this an annual check. I spend a lot of time crawling under cars, trucks and trailers. Generally, I find something that needs maintenance or repair, more often than not.

Good advice! I also spend a lot of time under the trailer and my vehicles just looking around. Often find issues that are very minor but if let alone…..

2 hours ago, topgun2 said: Thanks for the pics! I assume that the tank was full - or nearly full?  What kind of roads were you on? In either case - this should not have happened. Bill

Roads were a mixed bag from Interstate to backcountry gravel roads none were terrible though and nothing compared to the road up to Green River Lakes in the Wind River Range. Fresh water was nearly full most of the recent trip.

Thanks for all the feedback folks, good info. Once the weather clears I will look into the repairs, crappy wet snowy weather up here in Big Sky country these days.

We almost always leave home with a full fresh tank. Our Oliver weighs in slightly over 6K LBS with the fresh tank full. It would take another 100 gallons of water to get up to GTWR. I also do not believe highway vs dirt roads matter, except that if your tires are overinflated the washboard dirt road can be damaging, but not at correct pressure.

When we bought ours used, the tires were at 80 PSI. My bet is tire pressure. These days when I read pressure, if I can get all 4 even anywhere between 42 to 46 PSI, without backing into my driveway for the air compressor, I do that.

45 minutes ago, routlaw said: Once the weather clears I will look into the repairs, crappy wet snowy weather up here in Big Sky country these days.

From what I've heard - you folks need the moisture.

Still - no one likes "crappy wet snow"!  🤠

John Dorrer

2 hours ago, routlaw said: Roads were a mixed bag from Interstate to backcountry gravel roads none were terrible though and nothing compared to the road up to Green River Lakes in the Wind River Range. Fresh water was nearly full most of the recent trip.

Such a wonderfully drive with our truck camper for just one night. I had no idea what I was getting into. The views of Square Top, including on morning fog, made it worth it.

 John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli

@John Dorrer  yeah love the Winds and that lake. We have been there  the last couple of summers love it. Hell of road getting in though.

3 hours ago, topgun2 said: From what I've heard - you folks need the moisture. Still - no one likes "crappy wet snow"!  🤠

We were below average the first half of winter but second half we have seen quite a bit of wet heavy stuff. Not sure what the snowpack is now but probably a bit lower than normal. 

@jd1923  we have never run out tires at 80 PSI nor would I, usually keep them at 45 unless we are on long rough gravel roads then I drop the pressure even more. We did travel a very well maintained gravel road on this last trip, going into San Rafael Swell. It was muddy going on but not rough at all. On the way out to I-70 to the south the gravel road was in great shape, easy cruising. My guess is the weld was weak from the start and over time collapsed after 9 years of use.

56 minutes ago, routlaw said: @jd1923  we have never run out tires at 80 PSI nor would I, usually keep them at 45 unless we are on long rough gravel roads then I drop the pressure even more. We did travel a very well maintained gravel road on this last trip, going into San Rafael Swell. It was muddy going on but not rough at all. On the way out to I-70 to the south the gravel road was in great shape, easy cruising. My guess is the weld was weak from the start and over time collapsed after 9 years of use.

If you were the original owner and never ran near 80 PSI, that blows my theory. For me, receiving our used OTT with 80 PSI on all fours, I figured it was run that way for 6-7 years. Thanks @routlaw

Found a cracked weld under the water heater yesterday, believe it's same area as Routlaw's weld break.

There's a local race car shop that's done work for me in the past that has a very talented welder. Will give them a call.

Our Ollie is 2015 #75 LE2. Running 45PSI in the tires, dropping tires to 40psi this year, and always travel with empty fresh, black and grey water tanks. 99% of travel is on pavement. First owner never ran more than 50psi in the tires and we are second owners.

@rideandfly  bummer but at least yours has not completely come apart… yet.

Had a busy week and have not had the time to get mine repaired but did some research on aluminum welding. As you might guess opinions are all over the place from boat builders in Australia using adhesives instead of welding to TIG welding and other methods. There seems to be a lot of concern with aluminum welding weakening the material. I don't have an opinion yet but the Aussie who builds aluminum boats using adhesives really caught my attention. 

The big question now is, how many more of these broken welds are running around out there being unnoticed?  

Thanks and good luck with the repair.

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Netflix’s ‘Baby Reindeer’ Is a Brilliant and Jarring Account of Stalking, Victimization and Emotional Turmoil: TV Review

By Aramide Tinubu

Aramide Tinubu

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In his seven-part Netflix miniseries, “ Baby Reindeer ,” adapted from his one-man show, Scottish writer and comedian Richard Gadd recounts the true story of being harassed and stalked for years. Compelling and unsettling, Gadd, who portrays Donny Dunn, the fictionalized version of himself, transports the audience to one of the most painful periods of his life. The series untangles the nuances of his emotions, his stalker’s temperament and past incidents that fortified his frame of mind at the time. Shocking, hilarious, painful and devastating, “Baby Reindeer” is a rare gem on television, reminding us of what is possible in the medium. 

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Still, Martha’s brash personality and shocking laugh don’t stop Donny from indulging her. Soon, she’s coming to the bar daily, sitting through his shifts and bestowing him with the nickname “Baby Reindeer.” When Donny finally tries to let Martha down gently, she’s unwilling to let go of the illusion she’s conjured up about what they mean to one another. Instead, she begins infiltrating every segment of Donny’s existence, including his standup shows and his personal life, which involve Teri (Nava Mau), a therapist he’s recently begun dating. 

Like Michaela Coel’s HBO series, “I May Destroy You,” Gadd’s “Baby Reindeer” is a vulnerable and candid account of varied abuses, and how they can echo through every chamber of someone’s life. In seven episodes, Gadd illustrates how Martha’s obsession with Donny becomes both a nuisance and a morbid fascination for him. Moreover, the series also tackles gender biases, since the male/female roles in this harassment story are flipped. 

Dark and brilliant, “Baby Reindeer” carefully unpacks the frailties of human emotion and mental illness. Raw and sometimes humorous, the audience learns more about Donny and the complexities and events that have shaped his humanity. As the series closes, we are forced to confront the lies we tell ourselves and others and how all of those things affect the ways in which we show up in the world — and what we deem acceptable. 

All episodes of “Baby Reindeer” are streaming on Netflix .

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