restraint system visit workshop srs mercedes

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Restraint System malfunction Visit Workshop SRS

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I have this message on the instrument cluster after a minor fender-bender to my R171 2007 slk280 : "Restraint System Malfunction Visit Workshop SRS" The damage was superficial -no airbag deployment but the driver's seat belt restraint system did operate. The consequence is : 1.the warning message above and 2.the driver's seat belt buckle has shortened -part of the tensioning process. I shall get the seat belts removed.checked and repaired. I have found a vendor who specializes in such work and plan to report back to the Forum on their work because they are much cheaper than the MB dealer. **The problem is to know if a "crash" module needs to be replaced or just reset and if so - which one and where is it located please? I realize I shall have to pay the MB dealer to clear the SRS message but I want to do as much replacement/repair work as I can independently before I open my purse at the MB dealer. I would be grateful for any guidance and particularly a referral to the technical information on the MB SRS system.  

Before you even start this job, find all the info you can on removing the seats,the electrical connectors and the seat belts.This is not a job for the average DIY person. To remove the seat you need to disconnect the Yellow connector that is attached to the underside of the seat.Then you have to separate one small fiddly part of that connector.It is easy if you know exactly where to press/pry/push. So do not use force-you'll probably break the connector. To remove the cover on the side of the driver's seat there is a tricky clip at the rear of the squab.Do not try to disconnect it until everything else is disconnected -two small screws at the front ,two push/pull clips. The rear clip is NOT push/pull !! To disconnect it, slide the entire cover to the rear of the seat. When trying to extract the retractable seat belt from the bulkhead, expect a struggle.It has a tricky electrical connector that is tiny and fragile. Flip open the 'lock' on the top of it. Then pull it GENTLY upward. No,it does not slide or twist off. The retractable mechanism is tightly wedged up against the bulkhead with foam. You'll need lots of patience and strong fingers to slowly wriggle it free.While you are there check the torque on all the bulkhead bolts. All mine were barely more than finger tight! A little thread sealer(blue or green not red) to stop them vibrating loose and at least 10Nm is probably a good idea. This whole area looks like a huge water-trap to me. Oh and as you'll discover if you didn't read this far before starting the job - it is easier with the roof retracted/down. I hope this helps and perhaps a sticky could be created to collect all these suggestions on specific tasks like this which may seem simple but have numerous pitfalls for the unwary ? In a separate thread I'll post which fuses to remove so the airbags don't explode. Hint -check before you pull the seat out! The fuse pulling avoids the need to disconnect the battery which can create other tedious little problems.  

I had both the buckle and the seat belt tensioners and ballistic charges repaired/replaced . I used Safety Restore a new small company. They gave a same day turn-around and a very economical job. seat belt - Safety Restore I was fortunate to speak with the Tech(Alex) -who has a Mercedes C230 ,so he was able to answer a few Mercedes quirky questions I had. If you do this job , take lots of photos to help you replace the wiring connectors and harness correctly I would have made several errors without my captioned photos to refer to. I did not disconnect the battery for the removal or install. I just pulled the appropriate fuses. This yielded two surprises: 1. a very detailed Fuse map is neatly folded and perched inside the fuse box on the driver's "A" pillar. 2. The fuse box in the engine compartment (driver's side again) has a huge hole at the back .It looks like it should have had a huge rubber grommet in it.The hole is fist sized! This may explain why I was hearing too much valve gear clatter in the cabin. I temporarily stuffed the hole with a wad of domestic fiberglass insulation to see if that reduces the noise transmission. It is worth noting that there is a similar 'unfinished' huge hole on the passengers side .It leads to the cabin air blower. So that is two large holes transmitting noise into the cabin!  

This has been a rather solitary correspondence but for the sake of completeness: The error code in MB Star Diag that was resolved by the work outlined above was - 9183 "The resistance value in the ignition circuit containing component R12/1 (Driver ETR ignition squib) is too high." This issue is also referenced here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/general-mercedes-benz/1549707-seat-belts-need-advice.html The fuses that I removed instead of disconnecting the battery were: Engine compartment -drivers side # 45(7.5A) and # 49(also 7.5A) Cabin A-pillar-drivers side #34(30A), 37(7.5A). In addition, if you have the seat heaters remove #25 air scarf #23,24 The seat bolts in the floor are ribe/polydrive head, size "E10".The "E" is important! A 12 or 6 point 10mm socket will work but not very well.The torque required for tightening is 50Nm =37lbs/ft or 5kg/m The bolt head looks like a rounded male Torx .The correct tool is difficult to find: just google KTpro 4106PR or similar. Make sure it contains E10 ! 1/2" DR. 6PC. STAR SOCKET RAIL SET | King Tony America all corrections welcomed.I hope this helps others who follow.  

I have exactly the same problem as you, but I was wondering if you finally got the situation sorted out? Did you get around to buying the seat belt pretentionor? who installed it for you or did you do it? On my car the pretensionor activated and I got exactly the same message as you on the dashboard. So what I did was I got a second hand one from another Slk 200 and got someone to install it but they did such a rubbish job that instead of using the clips underneath the seat to connect it, they cut the wires and united them together so now the SRS light won't go off the dash board. I will post a picture to see what I mean tomorrow !  

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• General Discussion

SRS restraint system defective, visit workshop

• Thread starter Maxi4
• Start date Jul 28, 2008
• Tags defective restraint srs visit workshop
• Jul 28, 2008

Active Member

MB Enthusiast

Maxi4 said: Hi All, Got this message on saturday on the way to Stafford. I am waiting to speak to someone at my local dealer. Has anyone had this issue before, if so - is it a big job? and can it be fixed in a day?. Also - is it expensive to fix something like this? The car is still under warranty. Hopefully this shoud be covered? Thanks Click to expand...

Had this problem following battery fault (caused by power surge). Took to indie who reset using star. No problems since. My problem was not due to a fault with the SRS system, though your's maybe.  

It could be the connector under the passenger seat or more likely the occupancy recognition pad is faulty.  

Ok I have just heard back from the dealership, they have diagnosed the issues, apprantly its a wiring defect(?) need to replace a part, they have got it in stock, but cant get the approval from the used car warranty system as the (computer) system is down. Apparantly, it has been down most of today. So I am collecting the car later and take it back in on wednesday when I get back. I'll try and find out exactly what the issue is as the girl on the phone didnt give me much detail.  

As dieselman says Pete. Connector under the passenger seat, I just took the connector apart and cleaned it and it has been fine since. Might pay you to do that quickly save having the warning on all the time why you do your journey, I think you will agree if the dealer gets that sort of problem they just replace the wiring anyway.  

• Aug 7, 2013

Have a similar message "SRS restraint system defective, visit work shop" happened after a regulator issue in the alternator. The low battery threw up about x3 different errors including "Visit workshop (battery symbol)" "Malfunction electrical consumers switched off" "Battery/alternator stop vehicle" + the SRS message. All the other errors have disappeared apart from this SRS message. Will this disappear or does it need to be reset via STAR? Is there a fuse I can pull to reset?  

As above, mine does exactly that only if I don't drive the car for about 4 days..once enough juice is in battery all is fine...guess battery is on its way out..although charging is fine as checked last week. Checked service history and battery last changed in 2008. The voltage drops to 12.2 volts once car is stopped. When running it's 14.5 volts. Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK  

• Aug 12, 2013

gavatron06 said: Have a similar message "SRS restraint system defective, visit work shop" happened after a regulator issue in the alternator. The low battery threw up about x3 different errors including "Visit workshop (battery symbol)" "Malfunction electrical consumers switched off" "Battery/alternator stop vehicle" + the SRS message. All the other errors have disappeared apart from this SRS message. Will this disappear or does it need to be reset via STAR? Is there a fuse I can pull to reset? Click to expand...

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• Mercedes Benz R171 SLK Class Cars
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Restraint System malfunction Visit Workshop SRS

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Dont know of it helps but i had to visit an indy to have error code reset for the aircon, upon pluging the machine in he advised there was an srs error logged however ot did disappear upon a reset of the error codes if that helps.  

I had both the buckle and the seat belt tensioners and ballistic charges repaired/replaced . I used Safety Restore a new small company. They gave a same day turn-around and a very economical job. http://safetyrestore.com/category.php?id_category=5# I was fortunate to speak with the Tech(Alex) -who has a Mercedes C230 ,so he was able to answer a few Mercedes quirky questions I had. If you do this job , take lots of photos to help you replace the wiring connectors and harness correctly I would have made several errors without my captioned photos to refer to. I did not disconnect the battery for the removal or install. I just pulled the appropriate fuses. This yielded two surprises: 1. a very detailed Fuse map is neatly folded and perched inside the fuse box on the driver's "A" pillar. 2. The fuse box in the engine compartment (driver's side again) has a huge hole at the back .It looks like it should have had a huge rubber grommet in it.The hole is fist sized! This may explain why I was hearing too much valve gear clatter in the cabin. I temporarily stuffed the hole with a wad of domestic fiberglass insulation to see if that reduces the noise transmission. It is worth noting that there is a similar 'unfinished' huge hole on the passengers side .It leads to the cabin air blower. So that is two large holes transmitting noise into the cabin!  

This has been a rather solitary correspondence but for the sake of completeness: The error code in MB Star Diag that was resolved by the work outlined above was - 9183 "The resistance value in the ignition circuit containing component R12/1 (Driver ETR ignition squib) is too high." This issue is also referenced here: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/gene...ed-advice.html The fuses that I removed instead of disconnecting the battery were: Engine compartment -drivers side # 45(7.5A) and # 49(also 7.5A) Cabin A-pillar-drivers side #34(30A), 37(7.5A). In addition, if you have the seat heaters remove #25 air scarf #23,24 The seat bolts in the floor are ribe/polydrive head, size "E10".The "E" is important! A 12 or 6 point 10mm socket will work but not very well.The torque required for tightening is 50Nm =37lbs/ft or 5kg/m The bolt head looks like a rounded male Torx .The correct tool is difficult to find: just google KTpro 4106PR or similar. Make sure it contains E10 ! 1/2" DR. 6PC. STAR SOCKET RAIL SET*| King Tony America all corrections welcomed.I hope this helps others who follow.  

I know this is a shot in the dark, trying anyway. Michelle, i have the same issue as yours, except my car is a slk 300, so in the process of taking the driver seat out, I got stumped, I was able to disconnect the yellow and the black connectors, but there is a third connection, it is a single grey cable covered in plastic with a white connector, it has an A1 and A2, have not been able to disconnect, I realize that your car is different model, but maybe it has the same connectors? Help!  

This thread is 3 years old and Michelle has not been back for 2 years  

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• VS30 Sprinters (2019+)

SRS Malfunction after removing seats.

• Thread starter ERNURTRNS
• Start date Aug 2, 2020

So like a bozo I forgot to disconnect the battery prior to removing my seats in order to remove the headliner to insulate and run a few wires. Is there a way to reset the fault without seeing the dealer and having them plug it in? Thanks.  

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi

You will have to buy a Sprinter specific scanner capable of accessing the SRS module to clear the code. A basic OBD reader cannot do it. Suggestions are Autel MD802 or MD808 or AP200 BlueTooth dongle or iCarSoft MBII. More details in the scanner sub-section of Sprinter Talk.  

I kind of figured after doing a bunch of reading. I have to take the van in for recall work anyway so I may kill two birds with one stone this time.  

grantwilson

Freedomvango.

Cheyenne said: You will have to buy a Sprinter specific scanner capable of accessing the SRS module to clear the code. A basic OBD reader cannot do it. Suggestions are Autel MD802 or MD808 or AP200 BlueTooth dongle or iCarSoft MBII. More details in the scanner sub-section of Sprinter Talk. Click to expand...

2017 4X4 HR 144"

grantwilson said: MB2 doesnt work and they dont have one that does yet Currently dealer is the only reasonable option Click to expand...

well the NCV3 you can clear it. the VS30 you cant. I have an off the shelf scan tool that can do the ncv3  

I'll defer to Grant on this one. It's been awhile since this happened and not sure what tools are available now to clear SRS codes on a NCV3  

So I took to the dealer and had them reset it. But it set me back $100. Can someone verify me the right order to do this so I don't have to visit again? Do I disconnect the battery via the connection under the dash, then disconnect the seats? Or do I have to physically disconnect the battery then undo the seats?  

erik.wahlstrom

Well-known member.

The critical thing is to not turn the key on until the seats are reconnected. As to your specific question, when doing any electrical work, disconnecting the negative battery terminal should be the first thing to do.  

No. You won't be introducing problems. It's the whole reason MB went to the trouble of adding a easy to disconnect negative. Takes 20 seconds to remove and 20 seconds to replace.  

You need to remove the negative. battery terminal and i think its fuse 35 for the aux battery under the seat  

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan

Don't leave it disconnected for weeks at a time... The mini alarm/etc battery can die.  

Active member

ERNURTRNS said: So like a bozo I forgot to disconnect the battery prior to removing my seats in order to remove the headliner to insulate and run a few wires. Is there a way to reset the fault without seeing the dealer and having them plug it in? Thanks. Click to expand...

It seems on VS30 you really need to disconnect the + terminal. When I took my seats off to do my first big wiring effort and heater install, Indiscinnected the + and everything was fine when I reinstalled them. Recently I unbolted the driver seat and just slide it forward having only disconnected the ground. Following reinstallation, the SRS code appeared, so I assumed I had maybe bumped the plug or something. But, today I also noticed the alert for the passenger side in addition to the driver. Wondering if it’s typical that both seats will alert or if it may be tied to the recall for the wiring for the factory swivel seats?  

Wherever you go, there you are.

AR74 said: Grrr , I did the exact same thing !!!! It may be awhile before I can make it to the dealer to have it cleared , is it hurting anything being on besides the annoying message popping up ? Click to expand...

elemental said: If the message is that your Supplemental Restraint System is disabled/not working, it won't hurt anything unless you are in an accident. At that point the airbags won't deploy, and how much it hurts will depend on what you hit and how hard. Click to expand...

Do you know that for a fact? Or are you assuming. I would think that would put MB under huge liability. They’ve built a bogus warning system and then use it to turn off a safety feature? And they charge you to re-enable the airbag?  

erik.wahlstrom said: Do you know that for a fact? Or are you assuming. I would think that would put MB under huge liability. They’ve built a bogus warning system and then use it to turn off a safety feature? And they charge you to re-enable the airbag? Click to expand...

Just an FYI, I also generated SRS fault codes removing my seat. I ended up stopping by a local collision repair store and their Snap-On diagnostic computer quickly cleared the codes. $50. My closest MB would have been a 4 hour return trip.  

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SRS restraint system malfunction light

• Thread starter Herbster
• Start date Jun 6, 2016
• Tags restraint srs system workshop
• Jun 6, 2016

Hi I have the message SRS restraint system malfunction consult workshop. my local mechanic says I need the bit of the seatbelt that the belt clips into (the buckle). where would I buy a new one of these & can you just buy the black plastic switch bit? thanks  

Always remembered RIP

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• Thread starter

this is the name on the EPC, but I cannot tell which one. 120 A 1708600069 CATCH LEFT 120 A 2088600369 CATCH DRIVER'S SIDE 120 A 1708600169 CATCH DRIVER'S SEAT AUTOLIV 120 A 1708600869 CATCH DRIVER'S SEAT AUTOLIV 120 A 1708600069 CATCH CO-DRIVER'S SIDE 120 A 2088600369 CATCH CO-DRIVER'S SIDE 120 A 1708600069 CATCH CO-DRIVER'S SEAT  

none of them seem to match my VIN No. here:- http://benz.17vin.com/partsmain/1/170465/68X/91/FG/225 any suggestions for a supplier? thanks  

Either a breaker or new from mercedes, I only put up the diagram to show you how the parts are listed.  

• Jun 8, 2016

Has anyone else had this problem ?? It seems there's a fault with the seat. Surely this should be a Mercedes recall if that's the case??? I found this thread on another site : Yes same problem SRS light. The problem is the wires under the seat are two short and when seat is raised it pulls on the wires which in turn causes a short in the wires. Suggest when you do the repair raise the seat to the highest point and move all the way to the front and back to make sure all wires have some slack in them. My indy says this has been a common problem and has repaired many cars by just doing some work on the wires under the seat. But mine caused damge in the buckle. The wire harnest comes in the new buckle and is not a seperate part. Any other 171 preface lift you might wannt to get on your knees and do the test from above to void future problems. This Email, and any attachments, may contain non-public information and is intended solely for the individual(s) to whom it is addressed. It may contain sensitive or protectively marked material and should be handled accordingly. If this Email has been misdirected, please notify the author immediately. If you are not the intended recipient you must not disclose, distribute, copy, print or rely on any of the information contained in it or attached, and all copies must be deleted immediately. Whilst we take reasonable steps to try to identify any software viruses, any attachments to this Email may nevertheless contain viruses which our anti-virus software has failed to identify. You should therefore carry out your own anti-virus checks before opening any documents. Sheffield City Council will not accept any liability for damage caused by computer viruses emanating from any attachment or other document supplied with this e-mail  

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